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Desolder problem: Omron switches
Posted: 03 Nov 2012, 23:06
by CeeSA
whenever i try to desolder a Omron or a other mouse button switch, they overheat and become useless.
(Cherry Switches or other items, never got damaged...)
I need an advice for the desolder temperature of Omron and mousebutton switches.
Also i need an advice for a (not so expensive) solder station in europe( ebay.de / ebay.co.uk).
I only have ERSA SL 870 without any temp control and this
Spec: Heating power: 150W attire. 60W warm-up time: 20 Weight: 110 g Voltage: 220 VAC
Thank you
Posted: 04 Nov 2012, 05:08
by Input Nirvana
Have you tried hotter/faster?
Are you using wick or a solder sucker?
Re: Desolder problem: Omron switches
Posted: 04 Nov 2012, 11:30
by Pby
Farnell sells a relatively inexpensive desoldering station.
http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/d ... dp/1498361
It might be a better option to just order new switches instead of salvaging them if you're doing small quantities. They're not particularly expensive, even if you get the Japanese made ones.
Posted: 04 Nov 2012, 16:54
by CeeSA
i use a solder sucker.
yes, i should buy some stuff:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/400280967807?ssP ... 449wt_1139
Maybe this one....
Posted: 06 Nov 2012, 00:24
by Acanthophis
Sorry for the hijack.
I also have desoldering problems with MX Switches on a Poker. I use this
soldering iron + pump.
Is it too weak? The solder seems to get cold too fast, no matter how fast I try to suck it up after heating. Will a proper solder station fix my issues? Do switches or the PCB get damaged from too much heat?
Posted: 06 Nov 2012, 10:28
by Icarium
Well, that soldering iron ist scheisse but I have used similar ones. Do you apply the pump while still heating with the iron? Even though the tip of the pump is made of plastic they can stand short bursts of heat. I assume you have watched some youtube videos? Can you describe your problems in greater detail?
It also sometimes helps to ADD solder because of the flux in it, I assume.
Posted: 06 Nov 2012, 11:50
by CeeSA
@Icarium
Have you got any recommendation for a soldering iron? Thx
Posted: 06 Nov 2012, 12:33
by Icarium
This one is great:
https://secure.reichelt.de/ERSA-Loetsta ... 5dc47e9f11
If you want to make your own informed decision I recommend this:
http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/L%C3%B6tkolben
EDIT:
This one is supposed to be good for beginners (good in the sense of decent for the price, I assume):
http://www.ersa-shop.de/ERSA/05-Handloe ... 260BD.html
Posted: 06 Nov 2012, 13:44
by CeeSA
and the size of the tip? For the Tip260 the smallest is 1,1mm.
Fore RDS 80 is the smallest 0,4mm. To much things for me....
Posted: 06 Nov 2012, 14:19
by Icarium
The 1.1 mm is fine. Could even be bigger. You only need the really small ones if you want to solder really small parts.
Bigger tips are actually better in many cases because the heat can be transfered better.
Edit: If you go with a rather cheap iron make sure to get lead based solder. The lead free stuff is harder to use and needs higher temperatures.
Posted: 08 Nov 2012, 02:12
by xbb
DeathAdder wrote:Sorry for the hijack.
I also have desoldering problems with MX Switches on a Poker. I use this
soldering iron + pump.
Is it too weak? The solder seems to get cold too fast, no matter how fast I try to suck it up after heating. Will a proper solder station fix my issues? Do switches or the PCB get damaged from too much heat?
If it's lead free solder you might need high temperature 350~370 and probably higher wattage. Maybe you can try adding some more solder to the joint before desoldering.
Just like Icarium said. Also sometimes you can find good deals on ebay, look for weller/jbc/hakko/ersa stations.
Posted: 22 Nov 2012, 15:29
by bpiphany
I've heard claims these combined iron/suckers are really handy. I haven't tried one myself, and I don't know anything about their quality, but they can be found very cheap on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-30W-SOL ... 0477503631
Found a video as well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv4uFaX3UbI
Posted: 22 Nov 2012, 23:26
by The_Ed
I just use one of my kester 186 bottles and apply a generous amount to the omron pins. I then use my weller WESD51 and (I can't remember which tip) with one of my techspray prowick desoldering braids (I don't remember the size for omron pins). The omron comes right out, and then I replace it with a salvaged microswitch from a G80-8113. That's what I did for my Razer Imperator 4G anyway.