Hey everyone,
I'm currently in the early stages of building my own keyboard and I've been using http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/brow ... t6050.html as a guideline for learning what I need to do.
I'm pretty comfortable with doing the wiring and sourcing the switches/keycaps etc... The only thing my mind is stuck on at the moment is that I can't quite see/comprehend how the switches wouldn't have a small amount of 'wiggle' room once in the enclosure. My only guess is that the hole that the switch is inserted into is the same size as the switch itself, but it seems really unlikely that you can get that level of accuracy getting the enclosure made. I might be wrong here but other than using some sort of adhesive (I'm assuming some sort of glue) I can't see how the switches would nicely fit in the enclosure.
If anyone could shed some light on how the switches mount inside the enclosure I'd be extremely thankful
I will of course be documenting my keyboard build once I'm done (and post on here).
Thanks guys!
Building my own keyboard
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
The switches have four tiny little "teeth" that click into place when using a 1.5mm plate.
Cutouts should be tight enough to be slight friction fit, but achieving that depends on the technology used to form the holes.
In this picture (from the DT wiki) you can see the "teeth".
Hope that helps.
Cutouts should be tight enough to be slight friction fit, but achieving that depends on the technology used to form the holes.
In this picture (from the DT wiki) you can see the "teeth".
Hope that helps.
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- Main keyboard: WASD custom
- Favorite switch: Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey chzel - thanks for the quick response!
Please forgive me being a bit slow here, but where on that switch are the teeth located - I can't seem to see what you're referring to. Also, you specifically mentioned a 1.5mm plate - are you able to get switches that are catered towards different sized plates?
Thanks!
Please forgive me being a bit slow here, but where on that switch are the teeth located - I can't seem to see what you're referring to. Also, you specifically mentioned a 1.5mm plate - are you able to get switches that are catered towards different sized plates?
Thanks!
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
Cherry switches are made for 1.5 mm thick mounting plates. ALPS and ALPS clones (e.g. Matias switches) use thinner mounting plates. IIRC 1.0 mm. Matias is currently experimenting with dual use mounting plates for Cherry and Matias switches (geekhack thread).
Here's a diagram from Cherry's website. The left switch uses no mounting plate (it's mounted on the PCB), the right one is installed on a mounting plate and on a PCB (measurements in inches).
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Was just wondering , but i am assuming you can plate mount a PCB mount cherry so you can have pins and a plate ?
That would be super stiff
That would be super stiff