Hi guys,
I am pretty new here, so please forgive me if I choose wrong board to post.
Month ago I first time wondered mechanical keyboards as a fact and then I found couple of them in a warehous of my current job, so now I can only use my Dell AT101W with complicated ALPS black tactile switches, and I loved it so much. Later that time I found another keyboard in that warehouse, OTC OK100 analog but from Beltran made for USSR with double-shot PBT keycaps.
It was a big pleasure to type on that keyboard though it was laying in a turn for a years and was full of mud, switches works perfect and a keys sounding like good stones put on an old kayah goban table. I was pretty excited by a kbd with ALPS white clicky switches, and they seem to be evenly weighted as a 40-45g force (not like 60[html]∓[/html]20g), so I decided to restore it. Here is some pictures of the process took on my phone (sorry for quality).
And while keycaps are drying after wash, I made self-soldered AT to PS/2 cable, checking pinout by a multimeter and then connected board to the PC, but it's not working, I believe, that keyboard itself is good, but my cable or jumper go wrong, so after re-check it was obvious that I have some specific board, which do not have AT-XT switch on a back (like on wiki), though it has soldering pads on that place. So here is the question - does anybody know which position is for XT and which is for AT on this particular PCB, any help much appreciated. Or maybe there is somebody who can advice about possibility to check the board, while I am searching for a spare PS/2 cable for repeating adapter with it.
OTC OK100 modification and AT/XT PS/2 problem
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I got my OK-100M new in box, and the box lists all the possible models:
I was always curious about the difference between the OK-100 and OK-100M, and it would seem that the "M" means "membrane". Yours is identical to mine except that it uses [wiki]ATW Alps clone[/wiki] switches.
Considering the age of the keyboard (yours was made in 1992) it's quite likely that it's AT only.
I was always curious about the difference between the OK-100 and OK-100M, and it would seem that the "M" means "membrane". Yours is identical to mine except that it uses [wiki]ATW Alps clone[/wiki] switches.
Considering the age of the keyboard (yours was made in 1992) it's quite likely that it's AT only.
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- Location: alamutu
- Main keyboard: Dell AT101W
- Main mouse: Trackpoint
- Favorite switch: ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh, big thanks. Yes you are right, mine Beltron IZEOK-100 and it's made in 90-s, but rather than others have same switches for all the plate. And I believe you are right, and it seems like this is AT only version, so the only things I might check up is a spare cable and the modding with a teensy. Thanks again.Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑Considering the age of the keyboard (yours was made in 1992) it's quite likely that it's AT only.
I would be pleased if someone can take pictures from topic in a wiki (if they are necessary) and make a redirection from Beltron IZEOK-100 to OTC OK-100.
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
It would be preferable to get some photos taken on a less cluttered surface — the only one showing the top of the keyboard (just the case) looks like the cat's puked on your work surface and you've drooled on it. None of the photos show the actual assembled keyboard.
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- Location: Russia
- Main keyboard: Oriental Tech OK-100
- Main mouse: Exeq MM-501
- Favorite switch: ATW Alps Clone
Restoring this old thread 3 years later, just bought this one in decent condition. All switches are working except for one that i broke when cleaning. I got lucky enough and got an alps on enter key. but other keys are still atw alps clones.
Strangely theres no at/xt switch, just solder on the points where that switch supposed to be. Its working good despite that i almost killed it after resoldering.
The alps switch
It has a little different stem than other switches
And im currently trying to brighten the case a little bit
Strangely theres no at/xt switch, just solder on the points where that switch supposed to be. Its working good despite that i almost killed it after resoldering.
The alps switch
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