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Storage shed find: Cherry g81-1000
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:27
by Jimi14
For a while now, i had been suspecting that my dad had put his old computer in the old storage shed that stands on our courtyard, but until now, i just never had the energy to go through the 30 years worth of junk that makes up its contents for it or its keyboard.
But today, i finally took myself the time and after hours of rummaging trough broken stereo parts and cheesy romance novels (my mum collects them), i finally got my hands on the (kind of disappointing, i was hoping for a model M or even F) price.
- DSC_0026.JPG (498.05 KiB) Viewed 5365 times
- DSC_0028.JPG (471.13 KiB) Viewed 5365 times
What i instead found was an old cherry g81-1000 with double shots and a serious problem, the ö switch stem is broken and wedged inside the key-cap.
- DSC_0027.JPG (438.42 KiB) Viewed 5365 times
Is this something i can fix without taking the whole keyboard apart? And even then, is it really worth it? From what i heard the g81 line isn't the most well liked of keyboards.
Besides the keyboard itself i also uncovered the computer it belonged to, a mitac mpc3000c that have honestly, know nothing about besides that its AT compatible.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:34
by seebart
nice find. Could use a good cleaning I guess. Tested it for function yet? Those old black MY switches aren't sooo bad.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:35
by Muirium
The caps are the best thing about that keyboard. They look to be in pretty good condition. MX compatible*, which means you can pull them off and put them on something better. Well, if you can ever prise that broken stem out of Ö.
I'm one of the least Cherry knowledged around here, but I think I've heard people swapping G81 and G80 cases. Your case looks quite nice, maybe you could get a cheap G80 and swap it over as well as the caps. I'd run that by someone who actually knows though, first!
*Try pulling a cap from the bottom row, like Alt. If the stem is centred, then that's a nice surprise. Alas, Cherry liked to make them off centre on G81s which causes a lot of trouble. Other boards need those caps centred, not offset.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:41
by guk
1.5u were centered on G81, too. A G80-3000 pcb will fit snuggly into the 1000 case, as Seebart can confirm. The Ö key wouldn't be that much of a problem, since iso de doubleshots (to harvest that Ö from) are quite common . Nice find!
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:43
by Muirium
Ah, phew. Cherry only screwed it up with the Windows keyed G81s?
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:45
by guk
Muirium wrote: ↑Ah, phew. Cherry only screwed it up with the Windows keyed G81s?
They screwed it up with the G81s.
But yeah, basically. although there are some exceptions regarding the compatibility of stabilized keys even on winkeyless ones, iirc.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:47
by Jimi14
guk wrote: ↑1.5u were centered on G81, too. A G80-3000 pcb will fit snuggly into the 1000 case, as Seebart can confirm. The Ö key wouldn't be that much of a problem, since iso de doubleshots (to harvest that Ö from) are quite common . Nice find!
Um, not sure if i made it clear enough, the switch itself is broken, and im not sure how i can repair it without gluing the key-cap back on.
And yes, it works, i tried it earlier.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:48
by photekq
HAO!
That's a rare one. Very nice.
Don't worry about the broken switch. G81s are OK at best to type on. You'd be better off finding a nice MX keyboard to put those keycaps on.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:54
by Muirium
Exactly. A PCB swap is a lot less work, if you can find a cheap G80-3000 donor board. You get to upgrade to MX that way. Just needs to be ISO (any European layout will do). Unless there's other gotchas lurking in those modifier keys…
Or just go for a modern MX keyboard and move the caps on over. Classic beige works well on modern black. IF! those mods are standard mounts. Otherwise you could mix beige alphas with modern mods for a two-tone look. Which I guess you're stuck with for the bottom row anyway, without Windows keys.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 14:57
by seebart
Muirium wrote: ↑Exactly. A PCB swap is a lot less work, of you can find a cheap G80-3000 donor board. Just needs to be ISO (any European layout will do). Unless there's other gotchas lurking in those modifier keys…
Yes that's the easiest solution if you want MX with that nice case & caps.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 15:05
by kbdfr
Jimi14 wrote: ↑[…] not sure if i made it clear enough, the switch itself is broken, and im not sure how i can repair it without gluing the key-cap back on.
[…]
These old black G81 switches are very easy to repair. You can remove the slider with a simple paper clip or a needle inserted beneath the slider (where the square recess is), and then push a new one into place.
Removing the remnants of the switch from the keycap stem is more difficult. You'll probably have to dremel it (this is precision work). Replacing the keycap with a German Ö is of course possible, but do not take it for granted it will have the exact same degree of (or of not) yellowing as your present cap..
I can send you a switch and a Ö keycap for shipping costs if you're interested.
And yes, nice board. Swedish doubleshots are not that very common, I think.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 15:09
by Jimi14
Hm, to be honest, i am actually not really that found of cherry boards in general and im definitely no expert when it comes modding them.
here is the board without the modifiers though and a 1800 i have laying around with some of the 81 switches, seems to fit pretty well.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 15:56
by Kurk
Black MYs are only slightly less disturbing to type on than the white variant. Both are horrible.
However, if you insist I can send you a few black MY stems for repairing your board.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 16:09
by IvanIvanovich
I've had to deal with broken off stems inside keycap many times. My trick is to use a small eye or hook screw and thread it into the broken stem piece, then pull it out... think of removing it just like you would a cork from a bottle. It works really easy. Just need to make sure not to thread too far so it goes into the keycap, and work it out gently.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 16:16
by kbdfr
IvanIvanovich wrote: ↑[…] My trick is to use a small eye or hook screw and thread it into the broken stem piece, then pull it out... think of removing it just like you would a cork from a bottle. It works really easy. […]
I tried that several times, but always failed to at all thread the screw into the (much too hard) broken stem piece. Do you drill a hole first?
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 17:00
by chzel
I think a pilot hole would be necessary...
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 19:21
by Findecanor
Awww.. I think there are a few Swedish members who are a bit jealous of you now... Swedish doubleshots are not as common.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 19:46
by IvanIvanovich
No, I just use really nice sharp screws.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 20:54
by Jimi14
Findecanor wrote: ↑Awww.. I think there are a few Swedish members who are a bit jealous of you now... Swedish doubleshots are not as common.
They are? how rare are speaking here exactly? Rare enough that i shouldn't be disappointed not finding a IBM Board like i hoped?
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 21:09
by Muirium
Come on, you weren't expecting an SSK were you? A nice set of doubleshots is a good find!
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 21:37
by Jimi14
Muirium wrote: ↑Come on, you weren't expecting an SSK were you? A nice set of doubleshots is a good find!
Well if you say so.
Posted: 09 Jun 2015, 23:14
by Findecanor
Jimi14 wrote: ↑They are? how rare are speaking here exactly? Rare enough that i shouldn't be disappointed not finding a IBM Board like i hoped?
Yes, more rare than IBM keyboards. I have seen only two or three Swedish sets of doubleshot grey/beige Cherry MX keycaps before.