deskthority

I just got my new F122, and four keys in the numpad don't click, I'm suspecting a bent plate, but I'm not sure. will post photos tomorrow.

Try reseating the key. If that does not work, most likely a bent spring.

Will need pics to know for sure.

MECHGAMER wrote: ↑I just got my new F122, and four keys in the numpad don't click, I'm suspecting a bent plate, but I'm not sure. will post photos tomorrow.

Bent plate? More of a curved plate.

The springs and flippers are what goes wrong on buckling spring, not the plates.

By far the most common fix for a non-clicky key is to take off the cap a few times and try to tilt the spring right when you re-attach the cap.

If the spring has a kink in it, then you'll need to replace it using the "chopstick" method.

here are the pics: http://i.imgur.com/23XJR34.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nrLogMg.jpg http://i.imgur.com/egpHvFx.jpg

turns out eh plate is perfectly fine. There is one spring at the top corner that looks really misplaced.

You sure that's an F?

Looks like an M.

This picture looks like from a model M as Redmaus said : http://i.imgur.com/egpHvFx.jpg
Are the barrels mounted in a metal plate ? In case of a positive answer it is a model F. If not, it is an M
Another indication is the back of the case. If metal F. If plastic M.

did M's have a big terminal connector? also what do the M's feet look like?

also, it has a metallic ping after the click and it is rather high pitched.

thats not a model f, If you bought it as one id ask for my money back. metalic ping is suppost to be there.

It does have a metallic ping after the click, didn't you read my last post?

MECHGAMER wrote: ↑It does have a metallic ping after the click, didn't you read my last post?

No he means that both model M's and model F's have the metallic ping. Show us the back so we can be 100% sure if its a F or M.

why don't I just open it up to see? how do you open it up?

actually, the m sound more like a thock, and the f has a lighter sound, my keyboard sounds like the F AT in this sound comparison: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbt1EjDcCHU

serial: 1389162, 08 december 1987

It's easy to tell from the existing pics that it's an M - the barrels have 4 corners, which only happens on Ms with a plastic barrel plate.

Flipping it over to check is marginally faster than removing a keycap though :p

weird, as it actually sounds like an F.

Because you paid for an F, right?

Turn it upside down and post a photo.

I paid $30 for it, so its still a good deal even if its an M. I'll post more pics of it, including the insides and the back when I get home.

Good stuff. IBM did like to pull a few surprises, every now and then. But the proof is always pictures.

I actually believed it was an F because the seller said so(stupid mistake). Still a very good board.

back label:part no: 1389162
ID no.:1035127
date: 08DEC87
Plt no:F5
Model M
IBM corp 1985
Next time I should probably ask the seller for more pics of the item before buying.

I don't have access to a camera as of now, and how do you open one of these?

Maybe you should find more info about the keyboard and switch when you buy it. Most seller don't know their keyboard very much.

MECHGAMER wrote: ↑I actually believed it was an F because the seller said so(stupid mistake). Still a very good board.

back label:part no: 1389162
ID no.:1035127
date: 08DEC87
Plt no:F5
Model M
IBM corp 1985
Next time I should probably ask the seller for more pics of the item before buying.

I don't have access to a camera as of now, and how do you open one of these?

I've got a few of the F122 and only 1 m122, you just get a thinwall nutdriver.
7/32" or 5.5mm is standard for normal model M. My M122 isn't the usual kind but it has the same.

$30 isn't bad for a M122. If you get tired of it, you can always chop it down to "unsaver" size.