deskthority

To make a point, i amm going to type this whole post without a singgle correction to anything I type.

I recently picked up a Z-77 board to take advantagee of the the easily replaceable switches, but it gave me time to test a switch I woouldn't have otherwise tested, Outemu blues. While the click in them is very satisfying, there is one glaring problem that makes the keyboard borderrline unusable for actual typing. You guessed it... chatterr.

The weird thing about this switchh is the hysteresis. It starts BELOW the click, meaning you can actuate multiple key strokes without allowing the slider to resett. As you can see, it's a problemm.

The hysteresis is a function of the design of the sliding collar — how did they manage to screw that up?

Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑The hysteresis is a function of the design of the sliding collar — how did they manage to screw that up?

I have no idea... I have variious other blues, bothh authentic and cloned, and none of them allow you to override the built in hysterious. I am still using the keyboard as you can see. Seeing if it is a matter of breaking it in or someething.

It's probably a poorly configured debounce timer in the firmware. Outemus, as a clone, probably need a bit more time than legitimate Cherries and more expensive clones.

ohaimark wrote: ↑It's probably a poorly configured debounce timer in the firmware. Outemus, as a clone, probably need a bit more time than legitimate Cherries and more expensive clones.

If that is the case, I wonder if it can be hacked. I suppose if all else fails an inline teensy to filter off repeeat keystrokes could be a simple fix, but that would cost more money and time than I payed for the keyboard xD

Ah well, I will probably pull these switches and toss them to the back of the deepest drawer I possess.



Edit: Upon closer inspection of this thread, it appears specific keys chatter more than others. E is a heavy offender. I guess I could move the chattering keys to less used locations.

You could inspect the solder joints on the chattering keys. Sometimes a bad soldering job is the cause of a single key chattering, in which case it can be fixed by reflowing the solder that's there.

Findecanor wrote: ↑You could inspect the solder joints on the chattering keys. Sometimes a bad soldering job is the cause of a single key chattering, in which case it can be fixed by reflowing the solder that's there.

This keyboard does not have soldered switches, but socketed switches.

I have confirmed the chatter happens on the upstroke by turning on an LED effect and repeatedly pressing a key until it happens. Also, since the switches were very scratchy, I thought maybe the scratchiness in the switch was causing vibrations during the upstroke causing the contacts to bounce, so I lubed the sliders. The chattering has all but stopped now.

I chalk it up to the contact design and lack of adequate debounce in the firmware, however, lubing them prevents the contacts from bouncing in the first place, and has stopped the issue for now. Due to the way the hysterious doesn't work as it should in this keyboard, I will also assume they slimmed the design down to save on materials, but I haven't disassembled one yet to confirm that.

rich1051414 wrote: ↑This keyboard does not have soldered switches, but socketed switches.

Ah. That was what I first thought you meant but then I looked around for pictures of the Z-77's innards and they looked to me like the switches were soldered.

Anyway, before that I measured the pins of one Outemy switch I have and found that those are slightly thinner than pins on Cherry MX and Gateron switches. My actual first hypothesis was that maybe chatter was caused by pins not making good enough contact with the sockets.

I had that keyboard and didn't have chatter on any keys, I wound up returning it and getting the z-88 which also does not have chatter. If you got it on Amazon if def return because that sounds bad if it's on multiple keys.

For whatever it's worth. . . I have a CyberpowerPC keyboard that came with Outemu blues, and I have not experienced the problem. I rather like it, especially since I added O-rings. Sharp clicks and delicate, musical pings.

Also for what it's worth: someone on Reddit found it was possible to press Outemu blues and hear the click without actuating the switch - thread here. Possibly there is/was some quality issue with Outemus - or a slight difference in design compared with other MX. Out of interest, rich1051414, are your Outemus the recent type with the "bracketed" mount, or the older type that have a bare cross like a Cherry MX?

Re hysteresis: I can get some old Cherry MX Whites (the opaque-slider 80gf type) to actuate more than once without the click collar reurning to the top of its travel, so the behaviour isn't confined to Outemus. I don't have Blues to try, but it was easier to achieve multiple actuations with the more tactile of my Whites, so I'm inclined to think Blues might be even easier.

citrojohn wrote: ↑Also for what it's worth: someone on Reddit found it was possible to press Outemu blues and hear the click without actuating the switch - thread here. Possibly there is/was some quality issue with Outemus - or a slight difference in design compared with other MX. Out of interest, rich1051414, are your Outemus the recent type with the "bracketed" mount, or the older type that have a bare cross like a Cherry MX?

Re hysteresis: I can get some old Cherry MX Whites (the opaque-slider 80gf type) to actuate more than once without the click collar reurning to the top of its travel, so the behaviour isn't confined to Outemus. I don't have Blues to try, but it was easier to achieve multiple actuations with the more tactile of my Whites, so I'm inclined to think Blues might be even easier.

I don't think my experience is representative of what most people should expect, but I guess you should NOT expect quality control out of a $27 mechanical.