deskthority

Im glad you finally did it and started the thread!

Then we can add the before and after pictures like on those weight loss tv shows!

ntv242 wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 11:45

M9HM wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 10:39

Im glad you finally did it and started the thread!

Then we can add the before and after pictures like on those weight loss tv shows!

Yeah my hope is the before is coming soon

by the way, I told you yesterday I was receiving a 5155 keyboard. it came in the mail already. Its in perfect condition, clean as the popes clothes! So fortunately, I dont have to post it here!
Although it smells like someone used it as an ashtray for some reason... probably the owner of the shop I bought it from was a smoker.

I picked up a pair of these NMB PC 122s. From what I understand they'd been sitting in outside in a bush for a large part of their lives, and this was reflected in the volume of leaves, sticks, dirt and general vegetation all through them. When I got them, not a single key on either board would depress, but when tested, both PCBs functioned perfectly, apart from some corroded diodes.

At this stage, the first board is usable, but still needs a fair bit of work, including cleaning the keycaps properly. I may get round to making a proper post about them one day if anyone is interested. They're never going to be immaculate, but they will certainly have character.

4_404 wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 16:34

I picked up a pair of these NMB PC 122s. From what I understand they'd been sitting in outside in a bush for a large part of their lives, and this was reflected in the volume of leaves, sticks, dirt and general vegetation all through them. When I got them, not a single key on either board would depress, but when tested, both PCBs functioned perfectly, apart from some corroded diodes.

At this stage, the first board is usable, but still needs a fair bit of work, including cleaning the keycaps properly. I may get round to making a proper post about them one day if anyone is interested. They're never going to be immaculate, but they will certainly have character.

I cant freaking believe that thing was recovered back to life. Anyone would say "oh fuck it" and toss it. Great paint job too!

Thanks! The paint was just an experiment, but it turned out pretty good I think

I'm a sucker for punishment, and I love space invaders and big keyboards, so couldn't pass these up. It's so hard to find anything like these here (Aus), and these had been through too much to let die. I was pretty amazed myself that the PCBs worked. A bunch of the diodes rusted, and even most of the solder mask flaked off and all the bare traces were exposed, but they both worked first try.

I'd post my old Matias, which last I used it, typed like "ttthhhhiiissssss". But that never came back, it got chucked when every single key had chatter, and the companies response via email was basically "mechanical keyboards aren't for reliability" which I still have in my inbox because of the absurdity.

Inxie wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 18:21

I'd post my old Matias, which last I used it, typed like "ttthhhhiiissssss". But that never came back, it got chucked when every single key had chatter, and the companies response via email was basically "mechanical keyboards aren't for reliability" which I still have in my inbox because of the absurdity.

Bwhahahaha

Funny how my up to 33 year old SKCM alps boards don't have any chattering issues at all.

mode1ace wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 19:38

Inxie wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 18:21

I'd post my old Matias, which last I used it, typed like "ttthhhhiiissssss". But that never came back, it got chucked when every single key had chatter, and the companies response via email was basically "mechanical keyboards aren't for reliability" which I still have in my inbox because of the absurdity.

Bwhahahaha

Funny how my up to 33 year old SKCM alps boards don't have any chattering issues at all.

IIRC, the ALPS clones or even the SKBMs never could meet the longevity of genuine ALPS. I believe it has to do with the contacts being far less robust (they're really just bare metal, while real SKCM/SKCL had the big ol' switchplate).

mode1ace wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 19:38

Inxie wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 18:21

I'd post my old Matias, which last I used it, typed like "ttthhhhiiissssss". But that never came back, it got chucked when every single key had chatter, and the companies response via email was basically "mechanical keyboards aren't for reliability" which I still have in my inbox because of the absurdity.

Bwhahahaha

Funny how my up to 33 year old SKCM alps boards don't have any chattering issues at all.

Yea, that's why I have an AT101W as well that I recently lubricated for use on my IBM PS/2 Model 25, so much better.

Inxie wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 20:26

mode1ace wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 19:38

Inxie wrote: ↑

11 Sep 2020, 18:21

I'd post my old Matias, which last I used it, typed like "ttthhhhiiissssss". But that never came back, it got chucked when every single key had chatter, and the companies response via email was basically "mechanical keyboards aren't for reliability" which I still have in my inbox because of the absurdity.

Bwhahahaha

Funny how my up to 33 year old SKCM alps boards don't have any chattering issues at all.

Yea, that's why I have an AT101W as well that I recently lubricated for use on my IBM PS/2 Model 25, so much better.

I have a Matias Ergo and the reason I got it cheap was because of key chatter. I tested it for about a month and every week there was at least one new key chattering. My current plan is to pick up some Matias switches and de-solder/solder. They're only $50 for 200 and I have an Alps chassis with no switches ...

I've only been doing the keyboard restoration thing for a few months, so I don't have anything as bad as the folks that posted earlier. Here are a couple shots from my Model F XT rebuild project:

ntv242 wrote: ↑

13 Sep 2020, 17:44

hellothere wrote: ↑

12 Sep 2020, 00:19

I've only been doing the keyboard restoration thing for a few months, so I don't have anything as bad as the folks that posted earlier. Here are a couple shots from my Model F XT rebuild project

Not too bad but still require some repainting i think. I suck at painting. So I hate it personally

I generally do, as well. I was shocked as anyone else when the barrel plate turned out like this ... And the bottom case turned out like this ... Rust-Oleum spray paint FTW. Specifically, two coats of black Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer and two coats of black Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Paint + Primer on each side of each part. I didn't go for white on the bottom case because I knew I'd never be able to match the same level of whiteness and there are a lot of keyboards that do have a black bottom case.

I only used Evaporust on the barrel plate, no sanding. I did some light sanding on the bottom case, just to make it even, then I hit it with Rust-Oleum.

I do have a couple cases I might not mind trying to paint. However, I want to read and re-read all posts regarding that here before I try to do it.

I've got a project currently in the works that some of you who are active in the Discord know quite a lot about. Here's a sneak peek:

I'm sure many here remember this one. I got extremely lucky in tracking down some replacement parts from members here otherwise this would not have turned out as nice and would have taken much longer. The metalwork and paint was done by a local car restoration shop.

*Spare keyboard module and upper bezel from orihalcon.
*Spare toggle switches, solenoid, power switch, and misc. from ebay seller from whom I acquired my 3277.
*PCB and CommonSense controller from _Red_.
*Manuals and other ephemera from eBay.

JP! wrote: ↑

14 Sep 2020, 22:08

I'm sure many here remember this one. I got extremely lucky in tracking down some replacement parts from members here otherwise this would not have turned out as nice and would have taken much longer. The metalwork and paint was done by a local car restoration shop.

*Spare keyboard module and upper bezel from orihalcon.
*Spare toggle switches, solenoid, power switch, and misc. from ebay seller from whom I acquired my 3277.
*PCB and CommonSense controller from _Red_.
*Manuals and other ephemera from eBay.


1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

Spoiler:

4.jpg

Wow man, and I thought that stuff existed only on vintage magazines! What a lucky b*s*rd! And now? What's next move? Will you ever connect to a modern pc? Hackintosh on moon base alpha?

JP! wrote: ↑

14 Sep 2020, 22:08

I'm sure many here remember this one. I got extremely lucky in tracking down some replacement parts from members here otherwise this would not have turned out as nice and would have taken much longer. The metalwork and paint was done by a local car restoration shop.

*Spare keyboard module and upper bezel from orihalcon.
*Spare toggle switches, solenoid, power switch, and misc. from ebay seller from whom I acquired my 3277.
*PCB and CommonSense controller from _Red_.
*Manuals and other ephemera from eBay.


1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

Spoiler:

4.jpg

May I ask if you use this as your desk? Because that would be the best desk ever in the history of desks.

While I think I can see the blue Alps, I'm not sure if that's supposed to be yellow or amber Alps in the other two.

ntv242 wrote: ↑

15 Sep 2020, 22:43

hellothere wrote: ↑

15 Sep 2020, 21:59

While I think I can see the blue Alps, I'm not sure if that's supposed to be yellow or amber Alps in the other two.

I think that is either kpt or omron switches in them. The sliders are much diff than skcm/skcl

Mmm. Yah. They are rectangular.

Ewww.

Yep, that's a bigfoot alright. I recently cleaned up two exactly like this. Hate the way the plates corrode like that. :/

Needs a shave.

Surprisingly, the switches are still decent. Forgive the rotation on a couple pics. (Thaaaanks, Microsoft.)
.

Oh my goodness looking forward to this boi being back!

hellothere wrote: ↑

01 Apr 2021, 20:16

Needs a shave.

Surprisingly, the switches are still decent. Forgive the rotation on a couple pics. (Thaaaanks, Microsoft.)

If nothing else, OmniKeys clean up extremely well. I just used Evaporust and Rust-Oleum filler primer to get rid of the rust and minor pitting. Three or so coats of the filler primer and paint on both sides of the mounting plate.
.