[COMPLETED] Laser Cut Prototyping mini-GB
- Broadmonkey
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All those cuts are looking real great! really high quality stuff
- matt3o
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take very strong screws, if one breaks inside the hole you are... screwedZifle wrote:I love it ! :3
I'm very aware of the small distance to the edge, I attempted to cut away as much as possible with this one, we'll see how it turns out in the end.
- matt3o
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yours is coming up nextBroadmonkey wrote:All those cuts are looking real great! really high quality stuff
- matt3o
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the last two layouts:
I have bad and good news for monkey.
Good is that his layers line up to the micron. The alu and steel sheets were probably very regular in the spot where they cut his layers and he got a really nice keyboard.
The bad is that the two central screw holes are wrongly aligned with the base (probably an error in the DWG file). The good news in the bad news is that you don't actually need them. They used a very strong aluminum this time (it must be different from the one I used the last time) and you don't need the middle screws reinforcement.
I have bad and good news for monkey.
Good is that his layers line up to the micron. The alu and steel sheets were probably very regular in the spot where they cut his layers and he got a really nice keyboard.
The bad is that the two central screw holes are wrongly aligned with the base (probably an error in the DWG file). The good news in the bad news is that you don't actually need them. They used a very strong aluminum this time (it must be different from the one I used the last time) and you don't need the middle screws reinforcement.
- matt3o
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I checked most of the layers. Some are almost perfect others need a bit of work but I don't see show stoppers.
The stabs holes are very tight vertically and need a careful filing session. The key get stuck when pressed and you have to check where the stems hit the stabilizer and file the hole few microns to the top and/or to the bottom. This is extremely simple on aluminum plates a bit more time consuming on steel.
The most complex layouts (mine, Muirium's, mtl) also need some work to line up the holes and to level up the layers. Zifle's will need a lot of work if he wants to thread all holes.
Let me know If you want me to try to fix your board but I believe it's something that anyone with a bit of manual dexterity and the right tools can do. Also, it's part of the fun of building a custom keyboard. I don't have much spare time these days so it might take a couple of days if you want me to work on your board.
Over and Out.
The stabs holes are very tight vertically and need a careful filing session. The key get stuck when pressed and you have to check where the stems hit the stabilizer and file the hole few microns to the top and/or to the bottom. This is extremely simple on aluminum plates a bit more time consuming on steel.
The most complex layouts (mine, Muirium's, mtl) also need some work to line up the holes and to level up the layers. Zifle's will need a lot of work if he wants to thread all holes.
Let me know If you want me to try to fix your board but I believe it's something that anyone with a bit of manual dexterity and the right tools can do. Also, it's part of the fun of building a custom keyboard. I don't have much spare time these days so it might take a couple of days if you want me to work on your board.
Over and Out.
- Muirium
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Thank you very much indeed for your time and attention to detail, Matt. For the steelers amongst us, what tools would you say are required?
I've filed (and made a bit of a mess of) aluminium lately. Steel gives me the shakes!
I've filed (and made a bit of a mess of) aluminium lately. Steel gives me the shakes!
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No need to do any work on mine, I was obviously expecting some manual labour! Thanks for taking your time to thoroughly check the layers!
I have a feeling it might be easier to make small adjustments to the stabilizers.
I have a feeling it might be easier to make small adjustments to the stabilizers.
- matt3o
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You probably need some nice clamps to straighten the layers where they are slightly bumped. I would put them between two wood sheets and then clamp. You could also just screw the layers together very tightly (maybe using a washer).Muirium wrote:Thank you very much indeed for your time and attention to detail, Matt. For the steelers amongst us, what tools would you say are required?
I've filed (and made a bit of a mess of) aluminium lately. Steel gives me the shakes!
To file steel I use a very high quality "miniature" file (it's something like this http://web.tradekorea.com/upload_file2/ ... d_file.jpg ). They go for €10-12 each here, it's not your standard file. You can usually find them in hardware stores, ask them for steel file. It needs to be pretty small and with fine rugged surface. You need a lot of time but I did it for the steelbeauty
as soon as you get it put some paper tape or any kind of protection on it!Muirium wrote:Careful manual labour! I'm up to the challenge of a little sweat, but if I make a mess of a pretty shiny keyboard… Argh!
- Muirium
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Ah, about the bent / bumped layers: who's affected and where at? The one of mine I'm most worried about is my fragile and vital mezzanine.
- matt3o
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I tried to close your case and fortunately it works pretty well.
The layers are perfectly lined up (consider that I didn't use all the screws, just 3 or 4)
Only one corner needs some (hammer) work
But it's something that can be fixed very easily.
Another top shot. Unfortunately there are two very small scratches on the top, one is covered by a key, the other is very light, so overall I'd give it a A- grade.
The layers are perfectly lined up (consider that I didn't use all the screws, just 3 or 4)
Only one corner needs some (hammer) work
But it's something that can be fixed very easily.
Another top shot. Unfortunately there are two very small scratches on the top, one is covered by a key, the other is very light, so overall I'd give it a A- grade.
- Muirium
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Relieved to see the daring new design work so well on the first shot!
Got a rough ETA on the miscellaneous bits, like stabs?
Got a rough ETA on the miscellaneous bits, like stabs?
- matt3o
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I have everything you need except for the stabs. I should have ordered them in US and since I'm (hopefully) leaving for the States in few weeks I didn't place my order. The options are: I get them while I'm in the US, or place my order in mid October and have them delivered to Italy.Muirium wrote:Relieved to see the daring new design work so well on the first shot!
Got a rough ETA on the miscellaneous bits, like stabs?
The DSA caps should be here soon, I hope before my departure, if they are delayed I have someone that will collect and ship to you (so no worries).
- Broadmonkey
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I am thrilled to see my plates came out looking so good
I am fine with just doing the filing and all by myself, after all that is part of the fun. I can't express how excited I am now just to try it all with switches and key caps!
I am fine with just doing the filing and all by myself, after all that is part of the fun. I can't express how excited I am now just to try it all with switches and key caps!
- matt3o
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I'm so sorry that the center holes don't match, but like I said they are not really needed and they get concealed by the caps... so...Broadmonkey wrote:I am thrilled to see my plates came out looking so good
I am fine with just doing the filing and all by myself, after all that is part of the fun. I can't express how excited I am now just to try it all with switches and key caps!
- Broadmonkey
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No need to be sorry, I see that as a minor problem that can easily be circumvented by just glueing some plastic standoffs on, if necessary, but I think I am just going to leave it as is. You have done a really good job!
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I believe I can handle filing the stabilizer holes. Had to do that for the Phantom as well, and ended up just filing the stabilizer clips. If you think it's low enough risk, and you have the time, I would appreciate if you can try and straighten the layers. I don't really have anything around here to pound on. If you'd rather not risk it or don't have the time, then please just send it as-is and I will figure something out. Thanks!matt3o wrote:The most complex layouts (mine, Muirium's, mtl) also need some work to line up the holes and to level up the layers. Zifle's will need a lot of work if he wants to thread all holes.
Let me know If you want me to try to fix your board but I believe it's something that anyone with a bit of manual dexterity and the right tools can do. Also, it's part of the fun of building a custom keyboard. I don't have much spare time these days so it might take a couple of days if you want me to work on your board.
P.S. For future reference, did the aluminum layers turn out straighter than the steel ones? Or vice versa? Just curious.
- Vierax
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aluminium is a more flexible metal than steel and it's easier to work (may be too much as it's easier to make mistakes) after an hour drilling holes in steel, doing the same in alu seems like cutting (unfrozen) buttermtl wrote: P.S. For future reference, did the aluminum layers turn out straighter than the steel ones? Or vice versa? Just curious.
- matt3o
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The problem with steel is that if it's not in a solid shape it tends to bend in unpredictable ways. For example the sides are very thin and we often have a hole for the USB socket, that is terrible for steel. Alu can be easily worked, also by hand.mtl wrote:P.S. For future reference, did the aluminum layers turn out straighter than the steel ones? Or vice versa? Just curious.
- Muirium
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It's a pleasant surprise that both Matteo's and my stepped designs came out so nicely. If I had been smart enough to take his advice all along then a little aluminium filing would be all that stands between me and the finish. But instead there's now a war with steel to fight.
I'm wondering what the best line of attack might be. Tool up for a tight fight, or cheat around the socket?
I'm wondering what the best line of attack might be. Tool up for a tight fight, or cheat around the socket?
- matt3o
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I've sent you this on PM Muirium but I think it might be useful to others.
All you need is a good file and patience. I was able to cut away approx 1mm in 10 mins.
All you need is a good file and patience. I was able to cut away approx 1mm in 10 mins.
- matt3o
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just be careful not to bend it to much. as you know the stiffer the brittlerMuirium wrote:Phew! Great to see it's doable. Could even be a good workout with the layers I need to do!
- matt3o
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hahaha indeed! You'll get a flat file very quicklyMuirium wrote:Steel sounds more like filing a file with an other file!
- matt3o
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Ready to go!
Now labels!
NOTE: Pasph and Muirium be careful when opening the package. It's stuffed with surprises (they paid for them)
Now labels!
NOTE: Pasph and Muirium be careful when opening the package. It's stuffed with surprises (they paid for them)
- matt3o
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no, the plates are not screwed (don't know why but it's so weird to use "screw" in English, anyway...). The screws are too long and need to be cut, so they would pierce the cardboard. Don't worry though, the screws are M2.5 and easy to cut.Muirium wrote:Nice! Are you shipping the plates screwed together? I'm oblivious to the shipping protocols of steel.
There's a problem with screw length on your board Muirium, though. We'll talk about it in PM.
The package looks big due to the huge amount of stuffing I used... you don't want the layers to be bent once again during shipping, do you?!
- Muirium
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So many words are euphemisms in English that it's impossible not to sound like Tobias from Arrested Development every once in a while. It's all in the delivery.
- matt3o
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Tracking # (no privacy concerns since tracking is anonymous):
Muirium: RA720390511IT
Pasph: 14609299861-3
mtl: RA720390556IT
Zifle: RA720390499IT
Broadmonkey: RA720390508IT
Tracking from http://www.poste.it/online/dovequando/home.do and on your post office website as soon as it reaches your country borders.
Be sure to post your WIP when you receive your board!
Muirium: RA720390511IT
Pasph: 14609299861-3
mtl: RA720390556IT
Zifle: RA720390499IT
Broadmonkey: RA720390508IT
Tracking from http://www.poste.it/online/dovequando/home.do and on your post office website as soon as it reaches your country borders.
Be sure to post your WIP when you receive your board!