ABS Sludge
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
For a modding project I need some ABS sludge to fill gaps and such.
I have aceton and enough ABS. From what I understand it can take a day for the ABS to dissolve.
If I do this in a jar, will the sludge "keep" until I open it? Or do you really have to pay attention to it and use it immediately once all ABS is dissolved?
I have aceton and enough ABS. From what I understand it can take a day for the ABS to dissolve.
If I do this in a jar, will the sludge "keep" until I open it? Or do you really have to pay attention to it and use it immediately once all ABS is dissolved?
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Put the lid back on quickly and it will last longer. Add a little bit more acetone if you need to.
Glass jars with screw-on metal lids will leak fumes and dry out faster. A jar with a plastic lid that seals shut is best.
I could give you lots more tips. Always mask or cover parts that shouldn't be affected. Always use thin layers. Be aware that you may have to do a lot of sanding also.
Glass jars with screw-on metal lids will leak fumes and dry out faster. A jar with a plastic lid that seals shut is best.
I could give you lots more tips. Always mask or cover parts that shouldn't be affected. Always use thin layers. Be aware that you may have to do a lot of sanding also.
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Great, thanx for the reply! Sounds sensible enough.. appreciate the tips!Findecanor wrote:Put the lid back on quickly and it will last longer. Add a little bit more acetone if you need to.
Glass jars with screw-on metal lids will leak fumes and dry out faster. A jar with a plastic lid that seals shut is best.
I could give you lots more tips. Always mask or cover parts that shouldn't be affected. Always use thin layers. Be aware that you may have to do a lot of sanding also.
Don't mind the sanding, will have to sand the whole thing anyway for it's upcoming paintjob.
If you have more good tips, there are definitely welcome!
What is the best way to apply it by the way? Just smear it on?
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Yes. A small metal spatula is sometimes best. Then dried ABS can be removed easily.
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Allright, thanx!Findecanor wrote:Yes. A small metal spatula is sometimes best. Then dried ABS can be removed easily.
Taking pics of the whole modding process so will post pics once it's done. Cheers!
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Yeah that's pretty interesting ! I had this ABS molding idea to make keycaps but I have no time for experimentation.
I'm following this thread with attention.
I'm following this thread with attention.
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
I tried moulding something (not key cap) with ABS sludge once in a silicone mould and it got lots of bubbles inside and against the mould's surface.
Dried ABS sludge when laid thick is often much softer and brittle than solid ABS.
Dried ABS sludge when laid thick is often much softer and brittle than solid ABS.
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I believe that for "real" molding they usually but it in a vacuum system, removing all the air/bubbles. Seen them do that on tv.Findecanor wrote:I tried moulding something (not key cap) with ABS sludge once in a silicone mould and it got lots of bubbles inside and against the mould's surface.
Dried ABS sludge when laid thick is often much softer and brittle than solid ABS.
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Case is sawed nicely.. got a little bit of epoxying still to do and then it's sludge time
-
- Main keyboard: Self modified G80-1800,own controller,reds,~-20key
- Favorite switch: mx red
- DT Pro Member: -
Heyho,
experimented some days ago with abs and acetone too .
Like Findecanor said, using thin layers will prevent acetone bubbles to build up inside the drying abs. You can see the bubbles in the center of the filled arrow keyhole, after some sanding (wanted to use all the sludge I've got and applied it there in the end).
Inside the filled hole is another piece of the case. Being lazy, I didn't any cleaning on the case - quite surprising the piece that donated the abs chips (the strange looking thing in the upper left corner), combined really great with the case (you can push at it and fear breaking the part, but not ripping of the joint). Dissolving the abs took about 30 minutes and applying the abs with a spoons handle (dipping it after each stroke in acetone allows you to create a smooth surface, since the sludge doesn't stick to the spoon for some time).
The main problem I'm seeing now, is how to remove unwanted material without sanding down some of the original case...
experimented some days ago with abs and acetone too .
Like Findecanor said, using thin layers will prevent acetone bubbles to build up inside the drying abs. You can see the bubbles in the center of the filled arrow keyhole, after some sanding (wanted to use all the sludge I've got and applied it there in the end).
Inside the filled hole is another piece of the case. Being lazy, I didn't any cleaning on the case - quite surprising the piece that donated the abs chips (the strange looking thing in the upper left corner), combined really great with the case (you can push at it and fear breaking the part, but not ripping of the joint). Dissolving the abs took about 30 minutes and applying the abs with a spoons handle (dipping it after each stroke in acetone allows you to create a smooth surface, since the sludge doesn't stick to the spoon for some time).
The main problem I'm seeing now, is how to remove unwanted material without sanding down some of the original case...
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Well so far, so good. Did my first test with it.
Was surprised how easy it dissolves.. I read here and there that it might take a day to dissolve but it was more 30 minutes. At first I have cut the abs in really small bits but after that wasn't enough I just threw some bigger bits in and those dissolved really easy too.
Had a bit too much aceton so was left with a big layer of dissolved abs with a small layer of aceton on top of it.
The dissolved abs was/is very chewinggum like. Same feel to it and also sticks the same. Applied some with a spatula and was easy to do. Will see how the sanding goes
@imp I think if you sand it with a block that you'll get it flat without damaging the case.
Here is a pic of my first attempt:
Was surprised how easy it dissolves.. I read here and there that it might take a day to dissolve but it was more 30 minutes. At first I have cut the abs in really small bits but after that wasn't enough I just threw some bigger bits in and those dissolved really easy too.
Had a bit too much aceton so was left with a big layer of dissolved abs with a small layer of aceton on top of it.
The dissolved abs was/is very chewinggum like. Same feel to it and also sticks the same. Applied some with a spatula and was easy to do. Will see how the sanding goes
@imp I think if you sand it with a block that you'll get it flat without damaging the case.
Here is a pic of my first attempt:
-
- Location: Utrecht, Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Ergo Clear MX11800, Ducky 1087XM
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus
- Favorite switch: Ergo Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Nice, be sure to show how it looks after sanding!
My abs sludging is a bit delayed, have a big gap to fill in my case. First filling it with a glued in piece and then sludging over that I think.
My abs sludging is a bit delayed, have a big gap to fill in my case. First filling it with a glued in piece and then sludging over that I think.