deskthority

Sorry to ask again, I am really new in this ... there is always a first time

Actually I have two qHacks
- (a) one will take cherry MX swithes (qHack prototype version C0.0) -> I have keycaps for it
- (b) the second will take ALPs switches (qHack prototype version A0.0) -> I do not have keycaps for it.

(a) With the cherry board my bottom row setup is 1.5 | 1 | 1.5 | 7 | 1.5 | 1 | 1.5 = 15

(b) In the case of the APSs I was thinking to get an standard 104 keycaps set like this one

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/alps-keyca ... romotional

From the picture I can see that the row would be 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 6.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 = 15



If I use 19,05mm as 1 unit -> 1.25 = 23.8 mm but I cannot find a way to fit the keycap marked in bold above

Starting from the very left of the bottom row:

- The distance between the keycaps marked in bold here 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 6.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 works
- The distance between the keycaps marked in bold here 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 6.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 works
- The distance between the keycaps marked in bold here 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 6.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 does not fit
Here comes the questions:

Q1 ) Am I correct if I say that I will not be able to use this keyset ?
Q2) What is the correct size that I shall use for the bottom row ?
Q3) Where may I get APS keycaps for it ?

Many thanks in advance

For Alps you need a plate. I recommend something made out of steel. Do you have one? If so, it probably already has a layout set out.

I suppose theoretically you could try gluing the switches to the PCB or something, but I wouldn’t advise it.

Your plate should have holes for either Alps stabilizer clips, or Costar-style MX stabilizer clips. Depending on which type of stabilizers you use, you’ll need different keycaps, designed for the appropriate type of stabilizer.

The main source of Alps keycaps is existing keyboards. These mostly use Alps-style stabilizers. On the other hand, I believe the Tai Hao switches available today might be designed for Costar/MX-style stabilizers. If you buy keycaps from signature plastics, those also use MX-style stabilizers.

jacobolus wrote: For Alps you need a plate. I recommend something made out of steel. Do you have one? If so, it probably already has a layout set out.

This means an additional issue: I do not have a plate
Once I know the layout that I could use and I find the keycaps for it I will have to look for it. This project is becoming expensive !

Can anyone advice where to get a plate ?

(as you can read ... I am still learning)

Thanks

idollar, I may be buying an aluminium plate for this project soon. I'm hoping to design it over the next week or so. It's standard 1.25u mod ANSI with the following modifications:
- Split backspace, HHKB-style
- Split right shift, HHKB-style
- Split spacebar 2.75u + 2.75u, allowing a gap for a scrollwheel (these sizes might be slightly off, need to check what the PCB supports)

It should be quite inexpensive and made of aluminium.

As for keycaps, I would recommend getting both one of the above Massdrop Tai-Hao sets and supplementing it with keycaps taken from cheap donor keyboards, like a Dell AT102W.

This GB closed recently, perhaps someone has a spare AT101W plate?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75491.0;topicseen

You may look for other, similar Alps GBs.

Some people have used a plate from a full sized Dell AT101W and cut it down to fit their TKL/60% project.

The other option is to design your own plate and have a shop cut it for you.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

EDIT: Yes, that cap set supports the "standard" bottom row that you want.

scottc wrote: idollar, I may be buying an aluminium plate for this project soon. I'm hoping to design it over the next week or so. It's standard 1.25u mod ANSI with the following modifications:
- Split backspace, HHKB-style
- Split right shift, HHKB-style
- Split spacebar 2.75u + 2.75u, allowing a gap for a scrollwheel (these sizes might be slightly off, need to check what the PCB supports)

It should be quite inexpensive and made of aluminium.

As for keycaps, I would recommend getting both one of the above Massdrop Tai-Hao sets and supplementing it with keycaps taken from cheap donor keyboards, like a Dell AT102W.

Hey Scott, could you count me in for one of those plate? I would need it to fit this layout:
http://i.imgur.com/6FVAkG4.jpg

I don't know if I can support both that layout and my layout in one plate, but I'll definitely try.

7bit, I need the matrix row/col assignments in order to create firmware for the qHACK. I really don't want to trace every pin by hand...

gogusrl wrote: I still want a pcb.

check out the nerve on this guy, keeps asking for a pcb over and over and over ...

scottc wrote: 7bit, I need the matrix row/col assignments in order to create firmware for the qHACK. I really don't want to trace every pin by hand...

7bit... pin assignments, please... I know you saw my PM.

I have a couple of questions

Question 1 ) does anyone knows the resistors that I shall used ?

Question 2 ) can someone tell me how to orientate the controller ? If I place the USB pointing left (looking from the back of the keyboard), the VCC will not be connected. Is this correct ?

Question 3) where can I find the SW to load in the controller

Q1: Depends on the LEDs you use, I'm sure there's default that works great. Anyone?

Q2: No need to connect VCC since there are no active, power supplied components on the PCB. LEDs will be controlled from a pin.

Q3: The teensy has it's own flash loader, just google for it

Question: I got a qHack (the ALPS, 2015 prototype, latest I guess); where could I get a custom plate made in Europe (hopefully not expensive)? I intend to use a split spacebar (which I also don't have as keys, but that's another story). I also aim for an ANSI/HHKB layout. Of course, I will probably have problems with the stabilizers etc. Thanks for any info.

EDITED: Alps, Alps not Cherry (where is my mind)

Since it's MX I'd probably make it PCB mount. There's no guarantee that it's even going to work and the cost of a plate is an extra risk that I'd rather not take on in your situation. The way that the Teensy is mounted (on my Alps version at least) makes the plate situation a bit awkward: you need to first solder the Teensy pins onto the PCB, then put the switches into the plate and solder them to the PCB, then solder the Teensy on over the bottoms of two switches. This could cause a lot of hassle if I need to check the joints or resolder those switches, and the plate makes it more difficult.

Sorry I don't know where my head is - I meant the Alps version.

Heh, no worries. I got a plate cut for the Alps version. I'll PM you with details etc.

Now that is an unforeseen development!
Anticipated thanks! (also, no rush)