deskthority

ClickMe wrote: ... with relegendable keycaps.

I love my F122 too and your setup is very similar to mine. But I like my re-legendable keycaps.

Nice project, I have a unicomp laying around. Maybe you could tell us how you did it precisely, sir?

I was a long time lurker and have been absorbing information here. I'll try to explain, so this will be useful for others as well.

I'm breaking tasks to be done and will fill in more details ...

andrewjoy wrote:
Did unicomp not switch back to IBM sized spacebar and Ctl and Alt with 1x1 meta keys ? I know they did on there classic style case but not sure on this type.

I think you are right. Mine looks different from the current Unicomp classic and ultra classic 104 keyboards on their website.

Yes, I should mention that the keycaps replacement should be ok, except for the main bottom row, where Ctrl, ALT, space, etc. are not the same size as IBM Model M 101. Quality-wise, these 1x1 Unicomp keycaps are still the same two-pieced PBT, just with a different color, and probably made from their ...

You are a wizard, sir. Now I want two of this :'(.

[Though the keycaps still look meh to me, but replacing them with proper IBM ones, with two parts, should still be possible...?]

:lol:

Definitely possible. Any IBM model F or M keycaps, either one or two parts should be compatible with this ...

Fuck me, that's amazing! How did you get the seam to disappear so well on the case? =o

I think he filled it with something and painted the case. Could be wrong, though.

Thanks :mrgreen:

OK, I used the 2-ton clear epoxy glue A+B, Alteco brand, on the seams. Then sanded them down with 320-500 ...

OK guys, thanks for all the encouragements. I went ahead and spent nearly two weekends + holidays to complete it. It is harder than I originally thought. Although I have some experiences in atmega32u4 programming, but never before in my life that I had to reroute the membrane copper traces, or cut ...

Not long ago, I got a dead Unicomp Ultra Classic for parts and spare. It turns out that its controller went bad, no lights, no response. I'm thinking that it will be nice to have a thinner-bezel SSK but I couldn't find any previous references/photos.

I've seen several nice looking chopped SSKs ...

That's interesting - is it possible pressing the slider down very hard also flattens the rubber mat? I'm sure these switches were very tactile when new and it's a shame most people haven't experienced the switch properly.

I guess so, but it depends on how old and badly shape the rubber mat is ...

Futaba clicky switch is one of my favourite. So, I'd like to share some thoughts and findings here.

There is a rubber mat on top of 4 contact points at the bottom of the switch. The main reason why the switch does not click is because when it is old, the rubber sheet warped upward and prevented ...

Most of previous replies suggest that M and F are both very durable and can be repaired if needed. This also means that you should stop worrying and start learning how to take care of them. There are good resources on the net and especially here where you can find good DIY tips and friendly advices ...