deskthority

You could sand it and get it cerakoted or powder coated if you have someone that does that locally.

Model M-s can be mushy only when they are used and they dont have all the rivets anymore but then you have to bolt mod them.
if you are between the model M and F because of sound then Model M sounds more clacky and F more pingy. You can sometimes hear the ping when using the model Ms too. I prefer the

Hello Everyone, it has indeed been too long. I have not been around the keyboard scene much but i have recently started to get back into it and boy have things moved on! I have myself a Keyhcron Q1 Max with geteron reds (since when did geteron make such nice switches ?) and i want to take advantage of

For the new L84/L99 (30g), price starts from USD129+ shipping for wired model.
And there are more options such as mini84v6pro, atom68pro, x87pro,micro82pro (35g/45g).
Models including wired/triple/RGB triple/Wired RGB.
Would be happy to quote according to your address and models.
Prices do not include

Hello there. I have been on hiatus for a while... (remodeling house). I will have access to 3dprinter soonish. Bought one for myself as a christmas pressent 😅 i could test printing flippers with carbonfiber infused plastic and test if they work if it hasn't been tested out yet? And do some research

Hello!
Was the keyboard matrix ever documented?
I have a Multitech Micro Professor MPF-III (Apple 2 clone) that uses this keyboard (DE9 plug) ... but without the keyboard. I am designing my own replacement, but I need some images of the keyboard matrix ... or any internal info ... to make a start.

Had to create new account since I have been locked out from the old one... must contact admin to get some help.
In Europe I listed items on eBay and Wallapop.

One of the last remaining keyboards from the initial batch with some interesting switches, POM mount plate, modified layout, custom triple-shot legends, and more:
v877Bts6YmQ

The problem seems to be that I have low quality nuts and bolts. I tried to tighten them but they just kept screwing around without tightening anything and each time I tried it stayed working for a while. Now I changed some of the nuts to different ones that I had from another batch and it has worked

Currently selling my IBM 5251 beamspring keyboard with a Norwegian layout in excellent condition: Looking for 1200€ + shipping (based in Norway, but will ship internationally :))
The keyboard has been restored and cleaned internally and externally, including:
Cleaning each switch module
Removing

New project video: Brand New Beam Spring Keyboards factory tour - powdercoating process
Just a quick walk around the factory's powdercoating area. This video shows some of the B104 cases that are drying after being powdercoated.
LLpaqqVtNC4

I confirmed the converter was shorted and replaced it, now it's all working great!

I like mechanical keyboards and have been using them for many years. But as I get older, my wrists are hurting when I type.
I think the culprit is the fact that many mechanical keyboards have an upward slant such that the F keys are higher than the spacebar. Sometimes by a matter of 1/4-1/2 inch.
I’ve

A recent board I picked up for my collection. I have a thing for business keyboards that have custom keys. This one has quite a few unique keys. Cleaned it up today and gave it a health check. Had six missing rivets but the keyboard typed and worked just fine so I just installed screws on the missing

Wait, you're wondering why its in off topic? Because it is!
IMG_2310.jpeg
IMG_2311.jpeg
IMG_2308.jpeg
I found this on eBay when I was looking for a real Model F variant of same.

IBM 3277 Display Station Beam Spring Keyboard
zAamdjL6jRo

Having re-read the section of the manual, it seems updating from Linux should be possible but the link above contains only the firmware, not the tools. The download from the "Flashing Firmware" section of the manual does contain some bash scripts. The one I think I need, "UNIX - f104

Hey, welcome! The DK9008G2 is a great board — those PBT caps really hold up. Sadly, Ducky no longer hosts old firmware files. Your best bet is to ask on forums like Geekhack or Deskthority — some members there keep archives of older firmware versions and might be able to share it.

That's a good theory! And yes, the two arms for one key aren't connected - well, certainly not in a way my multi-meter sees. Maybe that explains the little bit of extra circuitry on the keyboard controller board that had me puzzled (pictured) - the capacitors and transistor. I'm still a bit lost on how

Sounds like you did a solid job with the conversion — nice work!
Yeah, QMK doesn’t have a direct “solenoid toggle” option in the configurator by default. Usually, that feature is handled in the firmware code, not through the web UI.
If you’re using xwhatsit or a solenoid driver mod, you’ll