deskthority

For quite some time I don't get email notifications for private messages anymore. Subscribing to threads seems to work - at least the option can be selected.

I'm still very intrigued. I hope you don't throw keycaps with such minor defects away. Could you sell them as samples at reduced prices, so one could have a closer look, before one commits to order a whole set? If you're worried about your reputation by giving out less than perfect caps, you might ...

I don't know of a converter for beamspring keyboards, that uses the original cable.
What I know (and have used) is a "xwhatsit" controller, that replaces a PCB in the keyboard. That PCB is connected to the PC via a normal USB-mini to USB cable.

Hi,
It has become quite quiet here on this forum, but I just wanted to say: I had a 5250 Terminal + keyboard + converter. I've sold them some time ago so my memory is getting a bit fuzzy.
I'm pretty sure, it would not have been a problem to change, what you suggested. It was all a big python script ...

BTW: These boards would be for sale, if anybody is interested. Maybe even with MT3 keycaps (/dev/tty beige/Triumph or Godspeed Apollo).

I don't know, if the keycap on the left has a sticker or not, but as strange as it sounds - that yellow coloring is quite certainly proof, that the keycaps are indeed mint.
I have the same effect on keycaps of a NOS Model F XT (which have undoubtedly no stickers on them).

It wasn´t so much the Toolbox itself, but all the driver packages, which were suggested on different sites - to make the toolbox somehow recognize the keyboard, which it never did.
But I gave it another shot and with this keyboard it now works.
So instead of VIA I can now use the online QMK ...

After using more or less modded Vortex ViBEs for the last couple of years, I now have my first keyboard with a "proper" QMK pcb (W1-AT) and would like to ask a few simple (I hope) questions, to set me on the right track.
At the moment I use VIA, which is very nice, because it's so easy to use. But ...

I just received my F77 keyboard (ISO) with
- two original style cases: beige and gray
- two keycap sets: german and blank
- first aid kit
- extra steel spacebar tabs and extra bumpers
(see picture of original order)

Including shipping and customs/tax (112 €) that cost me around 735 €.

If you would ...

Impressive!

Do you have a friend that made that plate or can one order such things easily - in which case: How much did it cost?

Update:
The big stuff is gone. What's left (pick-up prices):

- IBM 3278: € 1300

- Schneider (Amstrad) Joyce 256: € 200

@shine

Please bear in mind, that at the moment I'm primarily looking for someone, who can pick stuff up here in Germany, so I don't have to ship it!
Prices will also vary quite a bit depending on how many items someone takes.
(What I forgot to mention is, that I also have ONE xwhatsit controller, which ...

Hi,

I'm trying to reduce my collection somewhat and therefore I wanted to check, if there would be someone interested/able to pick up several items here in Germany (south-east of Munich), before I start posting/offering items separately.

The biggest objects in question are:
- IBM 3278 keyboard ...

These keycaps must have had an "interesting" life! But after all these treatments I think we can call these caps "clean" even if they don't look like it. Actually I find the look quite nice - if it's somewhat consistent over all keys.
The yellowing just adds to the mystery, because if it would be ...

I'm also advising against abrasives.
1. You would probably lose the side print.
2. The tops are (unless they were used a lot) usually textured, which means you would have to sand quite a bit, which would then mean that you would slant the top rim too much and "ruin the lines" of the caps.

If the ...

My compliments for the proper classic nav cluster.
It would be hard for me to relearn the nav keys for the left hand, although it might be easier and more intuitive if I would swap the HOME/END and PG-UP/-DOWN keys.

Have you tried putting the caps in water with very much dish-soap and then letting them soak for several days?

I personally have only used my converters with the "traditional" Soarer tools (no Flip, QMK or whatnot): viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2510&start=

But I guess you couldn't remember what you have done so wrongly.

Very interesting! I didn't even know such a calculation theory existed.
Thanks!

I know, you're primarily looking for an AT, but I just wanted to mention, that I have on NOS/NIB Model F XT, that I bought some time ago from "orihalcon" (imported from the US). I haven't done much with it, apart from checking it and hitting a few keys. (If you have too much money, I would be ...

Oh dear! A stabilizer made from plastic! I found something a bit similar in an old terminal keyboard (viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23677&p=462187&hili ... ta#p462187).
I fear "barely working" might be the best, that such a concoction is capable of.

Since I already have a 5251 beamspring keyboard (https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21093) , which I imported from the US to Germany - with considerable costs involved, but don't even use as a daily driver, one might think, that I don't really need a second one, but when I saw that IBM 3278 ...

- The cutout in a plate, for an MX type switch is a 14mm square, with stabilized keys and cutouts that allow you to open the switch without having to de-solder it (for non-hotswap boards) being the exception.

that is simply not true, the 14mm cutout does not allow you to open the switch without ...

Great job! It looks fantastic. And you're so much faster than me (or less lazy). (As I see now - I not only have a very similar keyboard, but also that same keycap puller and "Henkellocheisen". )

Out of curiosity, what is so special about the space cadet apart from being rare.
Not to be rude, but it's not particularly beautiful to me. Same goes for beamspring, but I can understand, that the beamspring has godly keyfeel and sound.


I agree.
Well, "being rare" is the main part.
And it has ...

Well, that's easy to understand for me regarding the two Apple M0110A cases, that I use every day: Before retrobrighting they looked dirty and disgusting, afterwards they look clean and beautiful.
After nearly 2 years I can see not the slightest hint, that the yellowing might come back. Should this ...

As has been said, I wouldn't spray anything on the case. If you find rust on the case it is probably from other steel/iron parts and not from the case itself.
My cleaning for keycaps or cases is always a first step with dish soap/water and a sponge cloth. Then a second step with 70% alcohol and a ...

I've opened my switch-assembly last night for the first time. Visually the foam looks perfectly fine, but - as usual - it has no "strength" in it and is totally flat under the switches.
In this condition the key-feel just isn't, what it should be, so I have to do something. But I don't dare to ...

... (Wasnt there a method where one puts O-Rings in the holes of the plate to tighten the switches so that you don't have to replace the foam?)


I haven't read about this technique so far (which isn't saying much).
It would certainly be possible to use O-rings instead of foam, but I can't see a ...