deskthority

Glad it all worked out in the end enjoy that keyboard

The problem could be where the ribbon cable connects to the pcb. Have you done a continuity test from the ribbon cable to one of the pads on the bad column?

gianni wrote: 16 Aug 2020, 00:41Price?

I did prefer a trade than a sale

gianni wrote: 16 Aug 2020, 00:41Price?

I did prefer a trade then a sale

I have an IBM Model M silver badge with that blue sticker on the backplate. I believe mine is a part no. 1390136 but don't know for sure as it is missing it's rear label.

It's UK layout with lock lights and the shiny rainbow back plate.

I think the keyboard originally had its label but lost it ...

For all my IBM Model F restorations (XT, AT, F122) I use 3mm neoprene foam with great results. Yes it is harder to compress the plates but totally worth it as it feels even all over and not hollow in the middle rows.

I have a video on my YouTube of my AT with the 3mm foam and a full floss mod ...

For all my IBM Model F restorations (XT, AT, F122) I use 3mm neoprene foam with great results. Yes it is harder to compress the plates but totally worth it as it feels even all over and not hollow in the middle rows.

I have a video on my YouTube of my AT with the 3mm foam and a full floss mod check ...

I recommend you post pictures of the internals for people to see.

I have just done the survey I can't wait for these to be available

A member contacted me and heavily suggested putting the item up on Ebay with the price being 2999.99$. He said if I was not going to do that, he would buy the board from me with 2000$ and continue from there. So we made a deal. I'm trying to sell the product through Ebay (maybe Reddit aswell ...

How can you mess up all the springs in your BRAND NEW F77?

Redmaus wrote: 06 Aug 2020, 07:57 I'll trade you my F122 for a 3278

haha yep we all would maybe??? F122's are getting pretty rare too so...

Very Nice ISO Model M

My recommendation would be to clean the membrane. Could be dirt related.

I had this exact problem with one of my Model F's. It was dust in the capacitive PCB.

After I opened the assembly and cleaned the capacitive PCB the problem went away.

I use 3mm foam and a leather hole punch to make the holes for the barrels for my Model F restorations with great results. Check out my video showing the sound with 3mm foam on my AT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPbfjpYlUTk

Tritian wrote: 07 Jun 2020, 10:24 Sorry man, all worthless. Send 'em here, I'll recycle them for you


I'd give you a better answer but I am unsure...

Haha

Hello everyone I am thinking of selling some of the keyboards from my collection.

I would appreciate it if someone could let me know the value of the these boards.

The boards in question.

1) IBM Model M part number 1390136 fully restored and boltmodded.

2) Dell AT102W unrestored.

3) WYSE WY50 ...

The Thai legends are not that worn. It's just my bad photography skills

Here is a better picture hope that better shows the Thai sublegends.

That's definitively a very early IBM Model F AT. My Model F AT is the exact same part no. as yours and is also made in 1984 but not as old as yours.

My Model F AT has not got a painted case but has got the newer plastic type of case like the Model M's. Another thing is my PCB is more of a Light and ...

IMG_20200526_153442.jpg

IMG_20200526_152650.jpg

IMG_20200526_152711.jpg

This is my daily driver ISO modded, floss modded and lightened spacebar IBM Model F AT. The modifiers are the Unicomp RGB set. The red WASD are also Unicomp caps. The alpha keys are from a terminal Model M and so are ...

I had an issue with posting pictures a few days ago. what happend was I posted a picture and it flipped sideways when I posted it even though the picture was the right way around when taken. The problem has not happend again when I posted a picture recently.

This is my rebadged Wyse WY50 keyboard. I put some Tai Hao blue and black doublshot keycaps

Was this solved?

Try blasting some compressed air down the key barrel it could be there's dirt stopping the flipper making contact to the membrane.

Make sure the keys notch engages with the buckling spring. This is done by tilting the keyboard back as you install the key.

If that still doesn't solve the problem ...

I uploaded pictures of the stickers here: https://imgur.com/a/03vkyL1

There's no obvious indication as to whether they're USA or UK, unless someone knows what the codes mean.

Kind of a shame my XT is on the scratchy side. It's still a great feeling keyboard, but knowing the smoothness of my AT ...

I would recommend to stick with some glue. Should be an easy fix as you have the broken piece still partly attached.

I have also floss modded my Model F AT with OralB Super Floss and it is a dream to use as a daily driver.

Omron switches can be incredibly unreliable so it could be that. Not necessarily anything to to with the cleaning you did.

Yeah that looks very similar to it Thanks.