deskthority

SOLD

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Found another keyboard in the basement that I don't even remember buying :|

It's a Raptor Gaming K1 with azerty layout, MX Blacks and I what I think is ABS double shot keycaps.
Says it's NKRO and I don't think it was ever used.

Price is 30€ + shipping.

https://i.imgur.com/stFqqtx ...

Sold. That was fast!

Hey,

I'm selling my IBM Model M SSK and a matching set of Unicomp blank keycaps with an extra red and an orange cap.
The bolt mod was done by matt3o many years ago and I believe back then I paid him around 170 Euro.

Seeing how some SSKs on ebay seem to end up quite high I wanted to ask here ...

Oh, totally forgot to answer. I don't know if TMK does, but even if it doesn't it won't be a problem to implement it.
Those RGB LEDs have a single data input pin and expect three bytes for RGB. Their timing is a bit difficult, but that also means that it only takes 3,75µs to update the color so I ...

So, what's the idea with the LED?
I don't know :lol:

It really depends on the case and plate design but I think a few RGB or RGBW LEDs will be pretty flexible.
My plan is to have a little hole or slit in the mount plate to show the current layer/status.
Didn't think about HOW exactly I'll ...

I changed the 90 degree switches back and added another RGBW LED on the right. I really hope the LEDs turn out good, I'm still worried whether it's a good idea because it most likely won't work without a mount plate...
You can dim the LEDs, but plain 5050 (5x5mm) LEDs aren't pretty to look at ...

Oh, thanks, I wasn't aware of that. It just made the routing a bit more compact, but in that case I'll revert all switches to 0/180 degree alignment.

Aaand I'm back once again :?

I stumbled across a box with the components to assemble ~25 THKBs today which motivated me to work on the PCB again. Just a few little things that were missing and keeping me from ordering the next batch.

LED
I was unsure if/where to put LEDs so I went with something ...

Hey folks, I'm really sorry for being inactive here and not answering questions I feel I should have.
I've had some personal issues and didn't follow most of my online stuff lately.
Luckily the project is not dead nor am I :mrgreen:

@Plasmodium:
I'm at my parents place for the next couple days, but ...

Yeah. Studying, working, (some) social life take quite a chunk of my free time.

But I have good news. The next PCB is almost ready for production and I will check out the Hamburg Fablab tomorrow. They have a 2D and a 3D CNC mill and a small laser cutter. I really hope that I can mill a case ...

Yay got mine!..
I put some good old Brown Gaterons on her and I must say well done on the assembly and firmware ne0phyte.. Really pleased.

The layout is quite intuitive and I really like the function layers, though I feel i will have to remap the space and Fn1 keys around the other way (though ...

I don't think we have the exact same one since mine is at least 15 years old. It's a WTCP-S and says "Serie 02.93" underneath

I'm using a 1.2mm round sloped tip (4PTF7-1):

Muirium wrote: Is that silver component (left of Z) a quartz crystal? Is it low enough to stay out the way of the keycap?

Yes, it even fits between the PCB and mount plate. I might change it to some smd crystal in the future though.

Just a quick info for the German people who don't read the German sub forum: Berliner Treffen

Would love to supply you with a mount plate, but I don't have any yet. I have one of my old mount plates left, but I want to keep that (I want to keep one of each PCB/plate revision).
I will check out the Hamburg fablab soon. They have both 2D and 3D CNC mill and a ...laser cutter! Sadly it's only ...

Also hier auch noch mal
Ich bin zwar nicht aus Berlin, wenn das Datum etwas im voraus steht wäre ich aber durchaus dabei.

EDIT: Oh und willkommen bei DT.

malcomkern wrote: Do I need the USBASP USB ISP Programmer & 10 Pin Ribbon Cable & 6 Pin Converter - AVR ATMEL from ebay to program the first time?

Oh and you will also need some jumper wires due to my retarded order of ISP pins on the PCB.
I will change the order of those in the next PCB revision.

I go to the shop tomorrow first thing, just let you know.

Do I have to buy the ebay programmer to program the fist time? Then I will order that also tonight.

Yeah, you will need one (and it can't hurt to have one).
It comes with the Atmel DFU bootloader, but the default fuses are configured to ...

Whaaat did I really forget to put them in your package?
Really sorry about that

Ask for 1206 (3.2x1.6mm) 22Ω ones. I would offer you to send them as a letter but the shipping alone is more expensive than two resistors

RoastPotatoes wrote: I don't think I have seen this on another pcb I have used. It is a nice idea to remove a little doubt.

You can always check the pads though. The pad for the cathode end is a rectangle

You guys are too fast for me. Yes, there is a black line on the diode that you just line up with the line on the PCB.
EDIT: That reminds me, I have to change the size of the diode footprint. The pad distance can be a lot smaller for those tiny diodes.

Just brought the PCBs for scottc and primered6 to the post office \o/

Great to hear that it arrived and it's working!
I packed and shipped four more today (Plasmodium, flabbergast, malcomkern, sinegav)

Swillkb just generates a top plate based on a keyboard-layout-editor.com code, then generates mathching middle layers and bottom plates. Basically what I'm, I guess, is what are the dimensions of the PCB? Then I can just check it against the interior dimensions of the middle layers. Once I've got ...

Yeah, fab-labs are international. There is one in Hamburg and I know that the Linux user group in my old hometown is about to found one there, too.

I never used the swillkb generator so I can't really help with that. I just checked the distance between the switch holes and the PCB edges. It sticks out 1.7mm on the left and right, 3.5mm on the top and 0.7mm on the bottom.
If you simply round those values up (or add 1mm each) you should be on ...

Yes that is possible too. I actually tried it but found it weird to use.
The 1.25/1.75 layout works really well for me because the big keys right under the thumbs are the most used ones.
My current layout has space and FN1 there (for the "missing" numbers and punctuation).

I'm using the same firmware, so as far as I can tell you can use the same stuff as planck.

Also: Good news for those who bought a prototype PCB. I got a big load of Atmega32u4 today and just assembled some more PCBs

Yes, right now the layers are only active while keeping the respective key pressed (see ACTION_LAYER_MOMENTARY in keymap_thkb.c#L52-L54)

Whoops, sorry to hear that. I never thought about problems it might cause with alternative keyboard layouts.

I just pushed the current mapping to github: https://github.com/ne0phyte/tmk_keyboard
To change the layout you need to change the tmk_keyboard/keyboard/thkb/keymap_thkb.c .
You then run ...