deskthority

The title says it all, I'm looking to buy an original IBM F50 to go with my Kishsaver. I wish I had bought one a long time ago, but alas I did not.

It doesn't need to be in working condition.

Let me know if you have one and what you want for it.

Someone with an F50 surely wouldn't be interested ...

Looks like it sold for $4,000

Muirium wrote: 14 Apr 2023, 15:15 Think how much it would cost with an Xwhatsit already installed.

Nice setting, btw.



Mine just works in front of a screen for a living.

I'd give anyone a deal. Only $60,000! And an Xwhatsit installed! And converted to ANSI!

Nice collection indeed.

That's an impressive collection. Thanks for sharing! Is possible to still make a Model M into a Model F like you have done?

The short answer is yes, but you have to order a PCB which makes things more complicated. The gerber files are public (those are the files that you ...

I'm not certain on the "ctrl" key specifically for an F122, but I'm fairly sure there wasn't. There a few different part numbers within the F122 and so I'd stand to be corrected if there was such a board.

And when you say it's tight, is it tight on the stem or tight because it's more than 1.5U? If ...

There was also a Model C1, etc. which were types of "F", and iirc there were F's that were called Model M as well. I'm really not sure the letter is related to the sensing method. Even if it was, as flowerandfilms mentioned, I doubt it actually abbreviates for anything meaningful.

To my knowledge ...

Nivlom_Drol- wrote: Not even sure which model that is.

IBM 3101 I believe

SpacemanToby wrote: If I'm paying $4k for a keyboard, I want free shipping.

If I'm paying $4k for a keyboard, I want insured shipping.

I find physical artifacts meaningful. In an undetermined period of time I'll stumble across a possession of mine that I had long forgotten about and it will prompt memories that I'll be able to continue cherishing in an instance that I would not have otherwise recalled them. That said, the physical ...

That's a cool little guide right there. I was aware that it existed, but I've never actually looked at it or knew what info it contained inside. Maybe I should read it, lol.

But yeah. I just too a flat head screwdriver and wiggled it until the stem ears looked like the others and they fit great ...

Quick update, the "ears" were not spread out enough on the problematic keys. I spread them apart and the keys are much more stable than before.

xxhellfirexx wrote:

Incredible. I want one. Maybe not $260 want one. More of an "I know what I'm building next" kind of want.

Have you tried adjusting the switch stem "ears"? I had a few loose caps from too many cap removals/attachments and needed to spread the stem "ears" a bit with a Swiss army knife.
I inspected them when I placed them back on the board and didn't notice any that has squeezed together too much, but I ...

Good to hear. Come to think of it, if the module isn't being pressed firmly against the PCB, it will certainly cause a fault like that. Not saying that's definitely the issue, but it could be the need for new foam if the old stuff is completely deteriorated. If the issue arises again, try removing ...

The problem with powder coating is that the manual flap is plastic and can't be powder coated. I've been looking to get a metal one made up but haven't had too terribly much luck locally yet.

A good enamel spray paint applied correctly and given enough time to cure will last a long time and survive ...

Not yet on the paint. Just enjoying typing on it so far and working out the bugs. A couple keys do feel slightly sluggish on off-angle keypresses, but nothing that I can't deal with. It's put my Kishsaver in a drawer so that has to say something!

The one issue I've got that I'm pretty sure is a ...

Does it still function without clicking? If it doesn't, it may be sticking to the PCB. Some form of sticky material may have gotten underneath it to cause this. It very well could be from the foam if it has started to flake onto the PCB. My beamspring had the foam melted onto the PCB and many keys ...

I wonder if they keep up with the keyboard world in any capacity or if they just have an eye for this kind of thing.
Helps to read things sometimes: "If it looks old, do the research. There are collectors, museums and others out there looking for this kind of electronic memorabilia."

I’ll be sure ...

I’ll stand corrected on you contacting me, lol. That said, I’m very curious at how they work and would like one or two to try out.

Posted your restoration (with credit given) to retrobattlestations so it gets more attention! https://www.reddit.com/r/retrobattlestations/comments/8dq8x0/deskthority_keyboard_forum_user_aer_fixus_did_an/

Thanks, I suppose.

A correction, though. I never did end up getting any 3D printed module ...

seebart wrote:

Aer Fixus wrote: I'd assume it's going to be replaced after painting.

Right. I would just leave it stock but hey it's your F122.

So, there might be some confusion. I'm not the OP. I reworded my last post to hopefully make that more clear as I saw how that could be misread as such.

I'd assume it's going to be replaced after painting.

Ah, the F122. Glorious boards, those.

For the label, if you are set on removing it to paint the back, I'd suggest trying and remove it with some heat and a lot of careful efforts, but I'd practice on a Model M first since you only get one chance. The other option is just taking a lot of care to ...

Another pricey 3278, but this one at least has some cool cyrillic keycaps...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-keyboard-model-3278-Beam-spring-vintage-also-on-cyrillic-Very-Rare/152986231150?hash=item239eb0a16e:g:8~YAAOSwDDxa1RF3


That one is odd. The ";+" key is stepped and the typing area seems to ...

Mmmm. Gotta love those green Alps.

The chips on the controller seem to suggest 1985.

So! This is the first post written with the keyboard! Aside from the "it lives" post, I suppose. Now that I'm actually typing on it for real, it feels incredible. I've overcome the slight learning curve of swapping from cylindrical keycaps to spherical ones and they are no longer a hindrance. The 7 ...

No photos this update.

The "7" key was a bit sticky and I've mostly remedied that. It's still got a bit more pre-load than the others, but not so much that I miss the keypress. The "S" and "D" keys were sticking to the PCB and not clicking because some gunk had dripped onto the PCB. Cleaning it ...

If you had put blue LEDs under the vacuum tubes, then I'd be absolutely repulsed

Those tubes gives me an idea: Nixie tubes that light up "°C" "n" and "S" (for caps, num and scroll lock respectively. Of course limited by the available symbols in Nixies).

Argh! Haven't really been keeping an eye on the forum at all for well over a year. Vaguely remember this topic popping up but shrugged my shoulders then. Now the itch to get one is real though and it looks like I've caught up at the last possible moment! Pretty much decided that I need the F62 ...

As an aside, it's reasonably difficult to find an [inexpensive, non-boutique] braided mini USB cable.

Maybe I'm in minority here. But I do prefer to make my own cables for most aplications. Not only because most of the time it's cheaper (there are exceptions of course). But also qc sucks when it ...

After letting it sit for a day or so, the first few times pressing "H" did not register. The "7' key has some notable resistance going down. And apparently, I swap off which finger I incorrectly type the spacebar with. Today, it's my right index finger...


Anyway, here's the video. The more I type ...