-Space-NATO- wrote: 16 Jan 2020, 20:38
Dear lucky users of beamsprings I have a few questions for you.
- What's your honest opinion on that switch?
- What do you love? what do you hate?
- What will you change?
- Do you think that there's gonna be a modern reissue of beamspring boards? just like the model F ones.
Have a great day!
Hi,
Stream of thoughts and ramblings.
Opinion:
I think the switches are great. They feel very nice and crisp. The sound is okay but not outstanding. I don't get that singing soul feeling I get with the Model F or Blue Alps as much. The cleanest most sharp but nice click I have tried. The best part is how the actuation snaps the moving part up toward your finger. That moment of movement is pretty unusual and is probably the best part of the switch for me. Not many other keyboards fling the working components toward your finger at actuation while not only captive, but on a spring. It is almost like the spring pulls the keycap downward when actuated. Very excellent feel. Once the beamspring snaps you still have the return spring, but a main source of resistance evaporates.
Love/Hate:
imho, the main reason the switches are very smooth is because the stem and barrel don't rub. There is loads of room around the white slider part and barrel. The barrel part acts as a basic guide to center the stem, but its basically centered by the coil and beamsprings. They work to correct the alignment. The beamspring is in constant tension, and it will return itself to straight. The keycaps wobble because there so much room around the stem and the part of the barrel around the stem isn't very tall, like a loose collar.
You cannot eliminate the wobble without sacrificing the smoothness. To reduce wobble means to tighten around the stem, which means friction. Even when the stem rubs there is very little plastic touching. The plastic is also very slippery as well. It is not a design fault, the keycap is not wobbling it is centered by spring action. It is floating.
This also means that you do can extreme off bore key presses without binding. This is how most of the key stabilizers work. They just have really thick keycaps that you can press on the side. The wide keys have plastic tabs that extend down to prevent you from over pressing them after actuation which makes sense.
Something about the keycaps feels physically very cold to me. Maybe its the slick potentially POM plastic being so thick, but my hands feel warmer on my Chicony keyboard. I generally prefer the feel of ABS doubleshots.
I love looking at the keycaps, they are very pretty. Especially the pearl white ones.
I hate the plastic spring loaded front manual-book area. It can be very uncomfortable and the seam with the metal case is odd. It can rattle.
The secondary manual holder on the bottom is in an annoying spot as well. Have to tilt the whole board up on the side, but then the feet dont reach so it could scratch your desk or slide. Not a problem though as most wouldn't use this manual usually.
The spacebar stabilizer is not the best and the key doesn't feel as good as other keys to me. It has 1 live switch on one extreme side and the other is a dummy switch so as a minor point the sound is not located in the middle spot. It can rattle a lot as well sometimes. I suppose you could put some grease on it. The stabilizer tabs were originally pushed through the contamination shield so remember to put some plastic wrap or something in them. The stabilizer clips themselves are okay tier plastic.
I think the plastic slider-stem with metal insert is a good design in concept as you can put in different angles and shapes of keycap holder pieces into the stem. I hate how many times I have sliced my fingers open taking them apart.
I enjoy the weight. Very often on my daily-driver chicony if I try to slide the keyboard back, the feet will collapse or the keyboard will roll up on a pen that fell behind it. The beamspring is so heavy and pre-angled this isn't an issue.
The metal case itself while durable, is also quite cold to the touch and has a lot of thermal mass. It can take a while to feel nice and warm. They are not ergonomic, often clumsy, usually uncomfortable. tbh I don't like them very much functionally. Aesthetically they are cool.
I don't like that the keycaps are pre-angled on the stems, I know that Heikkonen's stems are not angled. I like to press straight down, and not at an angle.
I love that the case has a built in screw clamp to tension the cord. As long as you put some material around it, you can clamp smaller usb cords.
I love the large travel after actuation.
I love/hate that the actuation is so tied to the click. On my blue alps I can lift up the switch just a bit and it will un-register but not unclick. This makes it good enough for gaming. The beamspring is not the best for gaming, but that's okay.
Over-ratedness, Availability and market prices. This does not matter. The fact something is rare is irrelevant to subjective experience of excellence quality and feels. The fact that something is revered, praised, whatever. Does not matter. Your opinion should not be based on the opinions of others. There is no value in being over hyped for an "excellent" item, only to declare it is just "great" or over-rated. It's like a review of a restaurants food where you talk about waiting for a table for a long time. That sucks you had to wait, but the food is still good.
Change:
The layouts are a bit odd but not the worst. People seem to get used to small form factors, orthos, ergos, etc all the time. Many good switches are in bad layouts. Many bad switches come in good layouts. Layouts can be changed.
Beyond that the main issue I have is that modules are already tall and often mounted ontop of backplates at a pretty strange angle which elevates them further. It isnt that bad, but it could be better.
Any keyboard would be tall if you mounted the plate onto a beamspring bottom plate, but it is particularly bad for the already tall beamspring.
So shorter case and less bezel is what I would change.
Reissue:
Looking at the Model F reissue and my own trying to make stuff, its just expensive to work with. It is obviously possible but just costs time and money.
For re-imagined switches with lower height, If you try to reduce height you could reduce smoothness as well, its hard to make them shorter while retaining the feel. Maybe it could be done with a narrower coil spring and more overlap of the keycap like a cherry switch. All of the small nuances of the switch work together to make them what they are.
I don't mean to say that switches like the Silo Beamspring would feel bad, but it will have it's own unique different feel. I'd rather that switch stand on it's own. There are just a lot of pieces that are seemingly simple in their own way but sort of connect to each other to make beamsprings feel good. The silo switch has the beamspring off to the side for instance which could be cool and unique feeling in it's own right, but it is a major change. It's like if you made a made an alps clone with a pale blue slider and compared them to SKCM Blue. Except here it is even more different.
Final thought:
IBM Beamsprings are sort of like a car you take driving in the countryside on a weekend for the joy of just driving. Maybe its not the best at groceries, and its not the absolute fastest car at the racetrack, but its the best for the joy of driving/typing.
Or like if you have a nice bicycle that you never lock up for fear of it being stolen. That really nice bike you ride just on weekends where your goal is to enjoy yourself while biking, not getting items or going somewhere.
So to summarize that, it is the ultimate joy-typing keyboard.