Ohai! ^_^ ...also, SSK actuator panel rivet replacement.
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Hiya!
I won't unload the entirety of my OCD tendencies quite yet. I will, though. Oh, I will.
In the mean time, here's this:
...also, if anyone finds this as exciting as I do, I'd like to start a poll thread of sorts to find the nastiest, dirtiest, beat up Model M that I know some of you fellow hoarders have - and then I want to restore it. Anyone interested?
I won't unload the entirety of my OCD tendencies quite yet. I will, though. Oh, I will.
In the mean time, here's this:
...also, if anyone finds this as exciting as I do, I'd like to start a poll thread of sorts to find the nastiest, dirtiest, beat up Model M that I know some of you fellow hoarders have - and then I want to restore it. Anyone interested?
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
...also guess I should leave this here too.
I'm ashamed of a few of my methods I used, but those were earlier this year and I've developed a few new techniques and tools since then.
I'm ashamed of a few of my methods I used, but those were earlier this year and I've developed a few new techniques and tools since then.
- damorgue
- Location: Sweden
- Main mouse: MX500
- Favorite switch: BS, MX Green and MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
There was a list somewhere with people who offers to bolt mod Model M's. I can't seem to find it right now, but you could probably add yourself there. I'd probably pick the one closest to me and with the least shipping costs if I were to pick one from that list.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
That is true getting someone near you to replace the plastic rivets. God knows how difficult it can be for anyone who has never done it before. For me personally I would choose someone who has OCD to do the task. Why you might ask, simply because people who suffer from that condition have a tendency to pay particular attention to detail. Every plastic rivet has to be removed carefully. Then the required hole drilled and filled with the bolt and nut.damorgue wrote:There was a list somewhere with people who offers to bolt mod Model M's. I can't seem to find it right now, but you could probably add yourself there. I'd probably pick the one closest to me and with the least shipping costs if I were to pick one from that list.
THey could in essence replace every single plastic rivet with bolts since nothing is perfect until you do the complete board.
Plus many OCD suffers are full on perfectionists in what ever they do. Although for themselves they always feel like they've failed to do the perfect job.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
I just watched your video and you seem to only use screws instead of bolts, are the screws any better than the OLD bolt and nut attachment?phosphorglow wrote:I'm ashamed of a few of my methods I used, but those were earlier this year and I've developed a few new techniques and tools since then.
Of course you cleaned your IBM keyboard till you could not even see any microscopic dust . Very decent of you in showing your methods for restoring that old keyboard.
- Peter
- Location: Denmark
- Main keyboard: Steelseries 6Gv2/G80-1501HAD
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: Cherry Linear and Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
The correct name is 'CDO' !!Elrick wrote:Plus many OCD suffers are full on perfectionists in what ever they do. Although for themselves they always feel like they've failed to do the perfect job.
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
A white barrel housing? What kind of witchcraft is that?
- Attachments
-
- whitebarrelhousing.jpg (63.94 KiB) Viewed 5763 times
- Grond
- Location: Milan, Italy
- Main keyboard: Keychron K2
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
My SSK has a white barrel housing as well. I remember this was discussed before in some thread and it turned out it's not uncommon. Not rare like quartz stone!
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I'd quite enjoy the opportunity to offer my services!damorgue wrote:There was a list somewhere with people who offers to bolt mod Model M's. I can't seem to find it right now, but you could probably add yourself there. I'd probably pick the one closest to me and with the least shipping costs if I were to pick one from that list.
I draw the line at the very bottom row - for now anyways.Elrick wrote:THey could in essence replace every single plastic rivet with bolts since nothing is perfect until you do the complete board.
Plus many OCD suffers are full on perfectionists in what ever they do. Although for themselves they always feel like they've failed to do the perfect job.
I wouldn't want to call it "better", but simply a very reliable and aesthetically pleasing alternative. I use high quality stainless steel flat head screws with a minute amount of plastics grade thread sealant. I drill into the old stud in just the right sweet spot to avoid any distortion of the surrounding plastic which can occur outside of juuuuust about a 1mm tolerance.Elrick wrote: I just watched your video and you seem to only use screws instead of bolts, are the screws any better than the OLD bolt and nut attachment?
Of course you cleaned your IBM keyboard till you could not even see any microscopic dust . Very decent of you in showing your methods for restoring that old keyboard.
So although there's nothing really wrong with the bolt and nut scenario - for all its practicality, reliability, and relative ease of initially performing - I prefer a much more subtle and precise approach.
Also, thanks for noticing my absurd level of cleaning. ^_^
Indeed! They seem to appear quite a bit in the '91 models - at least the ones I have in my stockpile anyhoo.Kurrk wrote:A white barrel housing? What kind of witchcraft is that?
Also! I have three from `88 that have a greyish barrel housing that I find rather neato.
Sooooo I got to wondering about the quartz crystal dealio. Turns out two of my boards have 'em. It's likely a number of the `85-`86 models had them. Or mebbe I'm just that special...Grond wrote:My SSK has a white barrel housing as well. I remember this was discussed before in some thread and it turned out it's not uncommon. Not rare like quartz stone!
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Did Model Fs ever get the super duper magical crystal of legend too? Mine's from 1985. I'd open it up but … crystal!
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Lemme take a look at one of the boards I have laying around...Muirium wrote:Did Model Fs ever get the super duper magical crystal of legend too? Mine's from 1985. I'd open it up but … crystal!
Okie dokie - here's one from an AT F. It looks a bit different, but I'd imagine it's similar.
Now I'm even more curious about the XT F's... hmmmmmm....
- Attachments
-
- 2013-07-02 18.42.46.jpg (99.58 KiB) Viewed 5735 times
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
I have already pm'd you relating to this. Definitely like your standard of work plus your abilities is very much required for my old Model-M.phosphorglow wrote: I'd quite enjoy the opportunity to offer my services!
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Nice music choice in the video, but I like it with Kraftwerk Popcorn as well (silence the left video)
http://youtubedoubler.com/8XKV
http://youtubedoubler.com/8XKV
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I enjoyed that thoroughly.webwit wrote:Nice music choice in the video, but I like it with Kraftwerk Popcorn as well (silence the left video)
http://youtubedoubler.com/8XKV
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Yup yup.lamune wrote:Do you know the dimensions of the screws you used? I'd like to do this as well.
Same as a bunch of other people use. M2 x .4 x 6 or 8, depending on if you want to put a nut on top for kicks or grins.
- lamune
- Main keyboard: IBM 122
- Main mouse: Razer Habu
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Ok, thanks! I thought 14mm length was ideal for going all the way through and adding the nut on top, but I may be mistaken. Are they self-tapping wood screws or machine screws? I may actually have something suitable in my R/C car parts bins already
- phosphorglow
- Location: Indianapolis - USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring!
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
14mm would be waaaaay too long.lamune wrote:Ok, thanks! I thought 14mm length was ideal for going all the way through and adding the nut on top, but I may be mistaken. Are they self-tapping wood screws or machine screws? I may actually have something suitable in my R/C car parts bins already
They're machine screws.