I started restoring this keyboard, and I noticed the stems are still scratchy after I cleaned the case and the holes.
I am thinking if I should wash the stems or should I put lube. The stems are clean despite 32 years of age.
I am new to lubing.
Trying to make my Mitsumi KKR E99AC smoother
Good evening!
I started restoring this keyboard, and I noticed the stems are still scratchy after I cleaned the case and the holes.
I am thinking if I should wash the stems or should I put lube. The stems are clean despite 32 years of age.
I am new to lubing.
I started restoring this keyboard, and I noticed the stems are still scratchy after I cleaned the case and the holes.
I am thinking if I should wash the stems or should I put lube. The stems are clean despite 32 years of age.
I am new to lubing.
-
CrashDrive1
- Location: USA - New Mexico
- Main keyboard: Sun Type-3
- Main mouse: Logitech Master MX 3S
- Favorite switch: Alps Tactile, probably salmon
I have been wanting a KKR for awhile now. I have a great connection local to me, but not found a compelling board yet. I have seen, and worked with the switches, a teeny tiny bit. but I have an idea for you
Ok, so I cannot exactly speak to the kkr in any "expert" capacity, as I mentioned. So fair warning. However, I recall watching a video from a guy that loves mitsumi switches, and in the video he performed the wax-boil lubrication method that has gained so much traction with alps switches. I've done the wax-boil on a few alps boards, and lemme tell ya, IT is a miraculous thing, especially for how (relatively) easy it is.
Remove your keycaps, open all switches and remove stems - place into one bi pile (take care not to lose any of the bits, naturally)
Find yourself an unscented simple little tea candle. If you're anything like me, at this point you will consult your wife, and learn that you have some in the house already. Scrape of a few shavings, think sharpening a pencil, but a bit less. A little goes a long way here.
Thoroughly wash & clean everything, (the stems I mean) an ultrasonic cleaner can make your life substantially easier in this regard, but most don't have access to one, or interest in spending ~$100 for a model worth buying. Another option is replacing this step with an additional pre-boil (sans wax) as this will also do a decent cleanin job, and be a heck of a lot faster that manually cleaning them. Do make a point of visually inspecting each of them after the cleaning boil session though, interesting may be prevented through diligence.. I would recommend going this route (boiling to clean), as it will save a evening of time for you. I'll describe that below.
Once you've cleaned the stem surfaces, and are confident that you've removed any and all dirt/debris, even the tiny stuff, we're ready to cook. (or you're ready to boil clean)
Find a container that is safe for boiling (or at a minimum, damned scalding hot (emergency room hot) at the least) liquid and you will need to boil the water. I also prefer to utilize an additional smaller container, a mason jar with lid, specifically.
Once it's up to temp, we're ready for the stems (If cleaning is needed, now's the time.) Personally, I also like to boil clean (well, ultrasonic in my case) the housings as well, but it would behoove you to do a little homework on your specific Mitsumi switch housings, specifically their ability to withstand the temps were about to introduce. I don't recall if the guy in that video I mentioned earlier did housings or not, but if I can find his obscure video, ill link it. I'll also look for a good demonstration video of this method using the alps switches, as it was devised for those specifically. If I manage to stay up long enough, I'll edit or reply with links. I believe a thread likely still exists on this forum as well, (it is probably much better than my raving communication style) that delineates the entire process. Damn, I could have saved myself a bunch of time just linking you to it in the first place, oh well. I'll look for it anyway. In the event that I don't get around to the links, the method is referred to as "Alps wax boil (or wax boil) mod" There's was a large discussion around it initially, and numerous prominent forum members found success with it, as did I, as well as a number of people who doubted that a tiny tiny tiny amount of wax would be adequate. Be sure to learn the lesson they provided lol. Do NOT use too much wax. You'll want to use less than you think you need, and maybe even a bit less than that, it's really not too much at all. Can't stress that enough. After the process is finishes, it's quite easy to add MORE wax, and a devil to go back to LESS. SO, easy does it ok?
Pre-o time checklist: boiling water, Safe container, preferably something with a secured lid that you can hold with over mits and shake like the devil, it's a heck of a lot easier that open stovetop waxingg I assure you,next is your small/smallish amount of tea candle wax shavings (WARNING! the wax TYPE is EXCEPTIONALLY specific, and it's damned imperative that you adhere to it. The other type of waxes (yeah, apparently there are types of wax, who knew?) commonly found in households/candles/etc. will not work. In fact, it will likely alter your mildly annoying current dilemma, into something a little more, interesting, and interesting dilemmas, much like interesting times, aren't worth a shit - they are to be avoided. add that correct type of wax, tea candle wax, I prefer to scrape with a spoon, and use perhaps 1 decent, lightly done, scraping across the candle surface, straight across, not around, and go with that amount. add it into the water, add ALL of your stems. DON'T WAX YOUR SWITCH HOUSINGS!, or do, but you'll regret it, a lot. Speaking of stems, they're the next item on our checklist.
Water into your container, or leave in pot, wax goes into water, switches come next, stir/shake/agitate mixture for 15-20 seconds and you're done.
When you stir/shake/agitate the pot/container, the wax will diffuse/disperse/sciencey word, idk, it spreads out pretty evenly all through the water, and as you'll experience afterward, the process will apply a very fine coating of wax, or entirely too much if you doubted me on the wax, to each and every stem.
I really like using a mason jar for this particular task. just about perfect for holding a hundred stems, your wife isn't pissed that you just coated her only good pasta cookpot with fuckin candlewax, and who gives a worthwhile shit about a single mason jar, I mean, you're just gonna use it again next keyboard right? There is ALWAYS a next keyboard with our degenerate asses, it's not just you buddy, we're here, and we go through the same shit. It's gonna be ok. She isn't going to leave you, unless you bought that beamer with the EBDIC legends. Silver lining though! At least you'll have a fuckin beamspring. Might be worth it, might not, I couldn't tell you.
Anyway.
The stems are waxed at this point, so try to not manhandle them from here on, ok? If you did stove top you'll need to find something to scoop out the stems, probably just a few at a time, try not to trash that coating of wax, if possible, use a basket ladle, (or proper name) i'm not a chef, don't care. It's that fishing net sort of kitchen scoop thing - has a wire mesh net on it. You'll find something, probably. Just repeat that process until you have them all safely removed, you'll be laying them out to air dry on a towel, or towels, paper towels if you're all fancy and shit, otherwise use an old (or new) bath or kitchen towel -if you're like the rest of us. Let them air dry, the less you handle or jostle them, the better. I like relocating they to a space beneath an overhead fan, or any fan really, can speed shit up significantly. Or just dump the entire pot of water and stems through a straining colander. Make it an old unused strainer, not that one your spouse likes, just a suggestion. Take the colander of stems, dump stems across prepared towel surface to dry, make sure not are touching, and your done for the day.
Sealed container method:
Add wax, then add boiling water fill about 3/4 of your seal-able container is enough. Add all of the stems. Close and fasten the container. Using oven mitts, carefully pick up container, double check that you ave a secure hold, next, shake that fucker like the neighbor's crying baby -or similar, whatever people shake vigorously. Once the wax is diffused, and you have done enough shaking to confidently induce SIDS or change a teenager's opinion, you're ready to fish em out. The wax diffuses throughout the water fairly rapidly, and the shaking, idk if it's even necessary, but it's comforting to presume that it helps ensure all switches get a lil somethin, plus, fuck kids, buy keyboards. OK, anyhow, next step.
You need to get the stems out of the water. A colander is perfect for this, but not one that you really want to use next week. that might be a interesting challenge to clean later. Could use some manner of utensil to dip them out, or whatever works for you. lay them all out in a nice spot where they can dry. a fan is useful here.
Once the stems and housing are entirely dry (very important! ENTIRELY dry. Failure to dry thoroughly may lead to, interesting experiences, and we know how we feel about interesting by now.) It's really gonna come down to the fact that dryness is a function of relative humidity and air flow. I live in the Southwest. It takes an hour or two maybe. It might require days in your region.
Now you get to reassemble the keyboard. You're likely to be done at this point.
In the event that a key still feels like shit, try activating (pressing) it a few hundred times. (seriously, this is likely to remove excess wax that may have been applied to it, until it has been reduced to the exact amount you'll desire. Seriously, the switches.... they just, they know precisely when to stop stripping wax, and start feeling fucking perfect and buttery smooth. Factory smooth? No. Better than that.*)
*I might be aggrandizing the experienced improvement, but regardless of your prior experience with the switches, this is gonna be about fuckin' great either way. I'm typing on wax boiled switches (alps) right now, a year after the fact, this board was absolute dogshit when I began... still feels lovely to me. I love tactile. And as your board is also tactile (linear is the same in this regard) you won't need to remove any facing wax from each switch. That will need doing however, if you are boiling clicky switches, and you want to have your clicky again. Least-ways that's how it works with alps.
Gonna post this, and have a browse for that discussion thread, as well as video guides for the mod. I'm running late. I know I am prone to ramble, but I don't have time to check whether my scatterbrained ass typed this exactly one, or if I repeated shit and it's a mess. I know that all needed information, sans video and forum post links, are included. perhaps included as much as 3 times in some sections. I'll fix it this evening. Probably anyway. Do your homework, boil some water, enjoy your switches! Oh! and hope for an uninteresting experience while completing the mod,. BTW, it's far and away easier than other lube methods i've tried, don't let my typing hell scare you. Besides the result will be much more uniform throughout your board. None of that, well, I accidentally put too much on my shift key, or even subtle differences. Nope, pretty well the same application on each and every one. It's great.
Ok, so I cannot exactly speak to the kkr in any "expert" capacity, as I mentioned. So fair warning. However, I recall watching a video from a guy that loves mitsumi switches, and in the video he performed the wax-boil lubrication method that has gained so much traction with alps switches. I've done the wax-boil on a few alps boards, and lemme tell ya, IT is a miraculous thing, especially for how (relatively) easy it is.
Remove your keycaps, open all switches and remove stems - place into one bi pile (take care not to lose any of the bits, naturally)
Find yourself an unscented simple little tea candle. If you're anything like me, at this point you will consult your wife, and learn that you have some in the house already. Scrape of a few shavings, think sharpening a pencil, but a bit less. A little goes a long way here.
Thoroughly wash & clean everything, (the stems I mean) an ultrasonic cleaner can make your life substantially easier in this regard, but most don't have access to one, or interest in spending ~$100 for a model worth buying. Another option is replacing this step with an additional pre-boil (sans wax) as this will also do a decent cleanin job, and be a heck of a lot faster that manually cleaning them. Do make a point of visually inspecting each of them after the cleaning boil session though, interesting may be prevented through diligence.. I would recommend going this route (boiling to clean), as it will save a evening of time for you. I'll describe that below.
Once you've cleaned the stem surfaces, and are confident that you've removed any and all dirt/debris, even the tiny stuff, we're ready to cook. (or you're ready to boil clean)
Find a container that is safe for boiling (or at a minimum, damned scalding hot (emergency room hot) at the least) liquid and you will need to boil the water. I also prefer to utilize an additional smaller container, a mason jar with lid, specifically.
Once it's up to temp, we're ready for the stems (If cleaning is needed, now's the time.) Personally, I also like to boil clean (well, ultrasonic in my case) the housings as well, but it would behoove you to do a little homework on your specific Mitsumi switch housings, specifically their ability to withstand the temps were about to introduce. I don't recall if the guy in that video I mentioned earlier did housings or not, but if I can find his obscure video, ill link it. I'll also look for a good demonstration video of this method using the alps switches, as it was devised for those specifically. If I manage to stay up long enough, I'll edit or reply with links. I believe a thread likely still exists on this forum as well, (it is probably much better than my raving communication style) that delineates the entire process. Damn, I could have saved myself a bunch of time just linking you to it in the first place, oh well. I'll look for it anyway. In the event that I don't get around to the links, the method is referred to as "Alps wax boil (or wax boil) mod" There's was a large discussion around it initially, and numerous prominent forum members found success with it, as did I, as well as a number of people who doubted that a tiny tiny tiny amount of wax would be adequate. Be sure to learn the lesson they provided lol. Do NOT use too much wax. You'll want to use less than you think you need, and maybe even a bit less than that, it's really not too much at all. Can't stress that enough. After the process is finishes, it's quite easy to add MORE wax, and a devil to go back to LESS. SO, easy does it ok?
Pre-o time checklist: boiling water, Safe container, preferably something with a secured lid that you can hold with over mits and shake like the devil, it's a heck of a lot easier that open stovetop waxingg I assure you,next is your small/smallish amount of tea candle wax shavings (WARNING! the wax TYPE is EXCEPTIONALLY specific, and it's damned imperative that you adhere to it. The other type of waxes (yeah, apparently there are types of wax, who knew?) commonly found in households/candles/etc. will not work. In fact, it will likely alter your mildly annoying current dilemma, into something a little more, interesting, and interesting dilemmas, much like interesting times, aren't worth a shit - they are to be avoided. add that correct type of wax, tea candle wax, I prefer to scrape with a spoon, and use perhaps 1 decent, lightly done, scraping across the candle surface, straight across, not around, and go with that amount. add it into the water, add ALL of your stems. DON'T WAX YOUR SWITCH HOUSINGS!, or do, but you'll regret it, a lot. Speaking of stems, they're the next item on our checklist.
Water into your container, or leave in pot, wax goes into water, switches come next, stir/shake/agitate mixture for 15-20 seconds and you're done.
When you stir/shake/agitate the pot/container, the wax will diffuse/disperse/sciencey word, idk, it spreads out pretty evenly all through the water, and as you'll experience afterward, the process will apply a very fine coating of wax, or entirely too much if you doubted me on the wax, to each and every stem.
I really like using a mason jar for this particular task. just about perfect for holding a hundred stems, your wife isn't pissed that you just coated her only good pasta cookpot with fuckin candlewax, and who gives a worthwhile shit about a single mason jar, I mean, you're just gonna use it again next keyboard right? There is ALWAYS a next keyboard with our degenerate asses, it's not just you buddy, we're here, and we go through the same shit. It's gonna be ok. She isn't going to leave you, unless you bought that beamer with the EBDIC legends. Silver lining though! At least you'll have a fuckin beamspring. Might be worth it, might not, I couldn't tell you.
Anyway.
The stems are waxed at this point, so try to not manhandle them from here on, ok? If you did stove top you'll need to find something to scoop out the stems, probably just a few at a time, try not to trash that coating of wax, if possible, use a basket ladle, (or proper name) i'm not a chef, don't care. It's that fishing net sort of kitchen scoop thing - has a wire mesh net on it. You'll find something, probably. Just repeat that process until you have them all safely removed, you'll be laying them out to air dry on a towel, or towels, paper towels if you're all fancy and shit, otherwise use an old (or new) bath or kitchen towel -if you're like the rest of us. Let them air dry, the less you handle or jostle them, the better. I like relocating they to a space beneath an overhead fan, or any fan really, can speed shit up significantly. Or just dump the entire pot of water and stems through a straining colander. Make it an old unused strainer, not that one your spouse likes, just a suggestion. Take the colander of stems, dump stems across prepared towel surface to dry, make sure not are touching, and your done for the day.
Sealed container method:
Add wax, then add boiling water fill about 3/4 of your seal-able container is enough. Add all of the stems. Close and fasten the container. Using oven mitts, carefully pick up container, double check that you ave a secure hold, next, shake that fucker like the neighbor's crying baby -or similar, whatever people shake vigorously. Once the wax is diffused, and you have done enough shaking to confidently induce SIDS or change a teenager's opinion, you're ready to fish em out. The wax diffuses throughout the water fairly rapidly, and the shaking, idk if it's even necessary, but it's comforting to presume that it helps ensure all switches get a lil somethin, plus, fuck kids, buy keyboards. OK, anyhow, next step.
You need to get the stems out of the water. A colander is perfect for this, but not one that you really want to use next week. that might be a interesting challenge to clean later. Could use some manner of utensil to dip them out, or whatever works for you. lay them all out in a nice spot where they can dry. a fan is useful here.
Once the stems and housing are entirely dry (very important! ENTIRELY dry. Failure to dry thoroughly may lead to, interesting experiences, and we know how we feel about interesting by now.) It's really gonna come down to the fact that dryness is a function of relative humidity and air flow. I live in the Southwest. It takes an hour or two maybe. It might require days in your region.
Now you get to reassemble the keyboard. You're likely to be done at this point.
In the event that a key still feels like shit, try activating (pressing) it a few hundred times. (seriously, this is likely to remove excess wax that may have been applied to it, until it has been reduced to the exact amount you'll desire. Seriously, the switches.... they just, they know precisely when to stop stripping wax, and start feeling fucking perfect and buttery smooth. Factory smooth? No. Better than that.*)
*I might be aggrandizing the experienced improvement, but regardless of your prior experience with the switches, this is gonna be about fuckin' great either way. I'm typing on wax boiled switches (alps) right now, a year after the fact, this board was absolute dogshit when I began... still feels lovely to me. I love tactile. And as your board is also tactile (linear is the same in this regard) you won't need to remove any facing wax from each switch. That will need doing however, if you are boiling clicky switches, and you want to have your clicky again. Least-ways that's how it works with alps.
Gonna post this, and have a browse for that discussion thread, as well as video guides for the mod. I'm running late. I know I am prone to ramble, but I don't have time to check whether my scatterbrained ass typed this exactly one, or if I repeated shit and it's a mess. I know that all needed information, sans video and forum post links, are included. perhaps included as much as 3 times in some sections. I'll fix it this evening. Probably anyway. Do your homework, boil some water, enjoy your switches! Oh! and hope for an uninteresting experience while completing the mod,. BTW, it's far and away easier than other lube methods i've tried, don't let my typing hell scare you. Besides the result will be much more uniform throughout your board. None of that, well, I accidentally put too much on my shift key, or even subtle differences. Nope, pretty well the same application on each and every one. It's great.
-
CrashDrive1
- Location: USA - New Mexico
- Main keyboard: Sun Type-3
- Main mouse: Logitech Master MX 3S
- Favorite switch: Alps Tactile, probably salmon
Alps video. don't follow chyrosran's video (he might have posted a correction by now, id, may need to watch a few, and follow the one that sounds like what i typed up.), but in the first attempt of his, he definitely didn't do it right.
This looks promising: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIkDOc9cIqw
deskthority thread: viewtopic.php?t=26426
and another, neither look to be that initial post, but doesn't matter: viewtopic.php?t=26656
and hopefully the mitsumi video: no dice. I cannot find that video, but the guy did it, worked great. maybe don't risk your switch housings though.
good luck!
This looks promising: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIkDOc9cIqw
deskthority thread: viewtopic.php?t=26426
and another, neither look to be that initial post, but doesn't matter: viewtopic.php?t=26656
and hopefully the mitsumi video: no dice. I cannot find that video, but the guy did it, worked great. maybe don't risk your switch housings though.
good luck!