TT MEKA G1 - key "4" stopped working, any ideas?
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi all,
I'm totally newbie about mechanical keyboards and all, so I'd like some help from you if possible! Tnx!
I'm not sure if my keyboard is under warranty because I got it from friend, so let's say if it isn't, what should, and what I can do to fix the key?
Is buying a new switch an option?
Can I change it without de-soldering the board? Is it possible to be something else?
Thank you!
I'm totally newbie about mechanical keyboards and all, so I'd like some help from you if possible! Tnx!
I'm not sure if my keyboard is under warranty because I got it from friend, so let's say if it isn't, what should, and what I can do to fix the key?
Is buying a new switch an option?
Can I change it without de-soldering the board? Is it possible to be something else?
Thank you!
- The_Ed
- Asperger's... SQUIRREL!
- Location: MN - USA
- Main keyboard: G80-3494LYCUS-2
- Main mouse: Razer Imperator
- Favorite switch: Red
- DT Pro Member: -
You will need to replace the switch, which of course requires soldering. Where do you live? I do modding and repairing for the Minnesotans in the area.
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
So the whole switch died? Suddenly? Im in Europe, so...
Do I need to buy the switch and give it to someone to solder it for me?
P.S Also, are there any guides for this keyboard? How to open it, solder/desolder switches and such? Or it's kinda same as all other mech. keyboards?
Tnx!
Do I need to buy the switch and give it to someone to solder it for me?
P.S Also, are there any guides for this keyboard? How to open it, solder/desolder switches and such? Or it's kinda same as all other mech. keyboards?
Tnx!
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Tell me, this won't work? Or?The_Ed wrote:If you don't know how to solder properly, then yes you'll need to find someone to replace the switch for you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLBXxzmuA_Q
Tnx!
- The_Ed
- Asperger's... SQUIRREL!
- Location: MN - USA
- Main keyboard: G80-3494LYCUS-2
- Main mouse: Razer Imperator
- Favorite switch: Red
- DT Pro Member: -
That is swapping the stem and spring only. The bottom housing with the crosspoints is what breaks in a switch, and you need to desolder it to replace it.
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
TTesports told me that I can send them my keyboard and they gonna repair that keyswitch.The_Ed wrote:That is swapping the stem and spring only. The bottom housing with the crosspoints is what breaks in a switch, and you need to desolder it to replace it.
But I'm wondering should I wait for more switches to stop working, or something other to break, stop working, and then send them for repair?
Because only shipping costs me like 20-25$, and I don't want to get one switch repaired, and after one week if something another happens, send them keyboard again.
What you suggest to do?
Thanks!
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: CM QFR
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade + various mice
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Since the key doesn't actually work, doesn't that entitle you to a brand new keyboard rather than just having them repair it?vedranius wrote:TTesports told me that I can send them my keyboard and they gonna repair that keyswitch.The_Ed wrote:That is swapping the stem and spring only. The bottom housing with the crosspoints is what breaks in a switch, and you need to desolder it to replace it.
But I'm wondering should I wait for more switches to stop working, or something other to break, stop working, and then send them for repair?
Because only shipping costs me like 20-25$, and I don't want to get one switch repaired, and after one week if something another happens, send them keyboard again.
What you suggest to do?
Thanks!
- The_Ed
- Asperger's... SQUIRREL!
- Location: MN - USA
- Main keyboard: G80-3494LYCUS-2
- Main mouse: Razer Imperator
- Favorite switch: Red
- DT Pro Member: -
They usually send you a different 'refurbished' one when you RMA something. And that one might have a different problem. Your best bet would be to have someone repair it. I just repaired 4 switches on 2 keyboards for $20 just to give you a repair price reference.
- Ascaii
- The Beard
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: CM Novatouch, g80-1851
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Ergo clears, Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0019
Switching out a switch is dont in under 5 minutes with a basic soldering iron...a new switch will cost you less than 2$. If you like, I could make a few pictures...a "mini-tutorial". Needed materials: soldering iron, one switch, braid/solder sucker, solder.
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Hm, was thinking about that. But not sure if something else dies in keyboard, what then?Ascaii wrote:Switching out a switch is dont in under 5 minutes with a basic soldering iron...a new switch will cost you less than 2$. If you like, I could make a few pictures...a "mini-tutorial". Needed materials: soldering iron, one switch, braid/solder sucker, solder.
Then I lose my warranty (which I don't really know how long it'll last).
So, you suggest me to rather do it myself or by someone which is "pro" in soldering? And in a long run it might be even cheaper, as you said, 4 (argh, that 4 key, everytime ) switches is like 20 dollars, as one shipping to them for just one switch or whole keyboard.
I'd like to see some mini-tutorial if possible, yes, with pictures That would be very helpful!!!
What's the percentage of that they will send me a whole new keyboard just for that?The_Ed wrote:They usually send you a different 'refurbished' one when you RMA something. And that one might have a different problem. Your best bet would be to have someone repair it. I just repaired 4 switches on 2 keyboards for $20 just to give you a repair price reference.
How offten switches break?
EDIT: And yes, where would you suggest me to buy Cherry MX switches in Europe from?
Was thinking of getting them from WASD keyboards? Is there any cheaper online store than that? As eBay isn't that cheaper for switches, tho.
And what switches I have to buy, cuz I see there are different versions of Cheery MX black switches, am I right?
So, will this work for my keyboard? http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... -11nn.html
Tnx
And sorry for my bad English
- Ascaii
- The Beard
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: CM Novatouch, g80-1851
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Ergo clears, Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0019
I will try to make a mini tutorial this week. You can get switches very cheaply from 7bit, here on DT. He is located in Berlin, Germany.
Switches are generally designed for 10 million keypresses, so them breaking should be an exception.
Switches are generally designed for 10 million keypresses, so them breaking should be an exception.
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
I was thinking of getting 10 switches, just for case if another dies. From WASD Keyboard it would cost me like 18 dollars with shipping.Ascaii wrote:I will try to make a mini tutorial this week. You can get switches very cheaply from 7bit, here on DT. He is located in Berlin, Germany.
Switches are generally designed for 10 million keypresses, so them breaking should be an exception.
I'm not from Germany, I'm from Croatia, so I never heard about 7 bit.
Can you plz give me a link to the site? Also, are they shipping to Croatia?
EDIT: I got you wrong, I tought it's a site, not a someone from DeskThority, cuz I'm also new to this site too.
How can I get in contact with him?
Tnx!
- CeeSA
- Location: Westerwald, Germany
- Main keyboard: Deck 82 modded
- Main mouse: MM711
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0016
- Contact:
here is the link of his group buy thread:
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t2760.html
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t2760.html
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Thank you!CeeSA wrote:here is the link of his group buy thread:
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t2760.html
So, for my MEKA G1 I need switches without pins (MX1A-11NN)? Am I right?
- vedranius
- Location: Europe, Croatia
- Main keyboard: KBT Pure Pro
- Main mouse: Func MS-3 R2
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
So, today I got ordered switches from WASDKeyboards, and OK, everything is OK, and then I called my friend which is a proffesional in electronics.
And then, we opened the keyboard with a card and screwdriver, removed the board (just pull it out, it isn't soldered to anything), and then we started.
When he saw the board, he automatically said, that that board is a Chinese shit (:D, what would you think that a pro would say), but, I said him that my number "4" isn't working anymore, and after a 5 seconds he said that the soldering is really bad made with bad copper and that it might not work because of it, firstly I wasn't sure, but then he took a voltmeter, and connected it to the pins, I pressed the key (switch) and it was working just fine
He desoldered the switch, and yes, we put a new switch, just for case, but the old switch was working as I stated, OK!
So ye, if anyone of you got into this, and suspects in a switch, firstly look at the soldering, and try the switch with voltmeter
As I said before, I'm not the best at electronics, and this might sound to someone pretty ussual/everyday stuff, but to me it was something new, that I must say, very enjoyed
Also, here are the pics, from the video I took, which I might upload if there will be any interest, here
http://imgur.com/a/zfSab#0
Thank you all for helping me to decide what to do!
And then, we opened the keyboard with a card and screwdriver, removed the board (just pull it out, it isn't soldered to anything), and then we started.
When he saw the board, he automatically said, that that board is a Chinese shit (:D, what would you think that a pro would say), but, I said him that my number "4" isn't working anymore, and after a 5 seconds he said that the soldering is really bad made with bad copper and that it might not work because of it, firstly I wasn't sure, but then he took a voltmeter, and connected it to the pins, I pressed the key (switch) and it was working just fine
He desoldered the switch, and yes, we put a new switch, just for case, but the old switch was working as I stated, OK!
So ye, if anyone of you got into this, and suspects in a switch, firstly look at the soldering, and try the switch with voltmeter
As I said before, I'm not the best at electronics, and this might sound to someone pretty ussual/everyday stuff, but to me it was something new, that I must say, very enjoyed
Also, here are the pics, from the video I took, which I might upload if there will be any interest, here
http://imgur.com/a/zfSab#0
Thank you all for helping me to decide what to do!
-
- Main keyboard: Meka g1
- Main mouse: Tt e sporte lvl10
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: -
This guide inspired me to do it myself. A 30 minute option over a two week? RMA process. And I keep new board instead of risking a refurb.
Guide is correct, cheap crap internals wow wee.
Step1: unplug all wires. remove 3 screws on bottom near top. No screws are hidden or beneath rubber foot pads.
Step2: top keyboard shell is held in by pressure tabs, scan side edge of shell for the depressions.
Step3: insert thin flat plastic to depress tabs. I used a lifetime fitness card as to not marr plastic.
Step4: pull shell apart at first tab, continue depressing and prying until lid is removed.
Step5: firmly pull straight up and off on key shelf, its plugged in like an IDE to the usb hub.
Step5: locate key with problems, desolder with desoldering braid. Note! Copper Washer is under solder! Reuse it?
Step6: optional remove keycap from topside and push in the two tiny plastic tabs, remove switch
Step6-2: pry 4 tabs gently which hold switch together, make note or orientation of shell halves for reassembly
Step6-3: with carefully disassembled switch check for damage to metal contacts, plastic legs
Seeing contacts separate as they should upon testing.
Step 6-4: reassemble halves as observed earlier, test switch operation manually and reinsert.
Step 7: place copper washer over holes and apply solder to hold switch firmly in place and complete connection.
Step8: reassemble carefully as to avoid bending board connector ide style pins. A short is not good for you, system.
Step9: resnap top shell install 3 screws. Ya do a little dance and drink alittle wata.
Step10: enjoy
Disclaimer, I am not responsible for any damage or harm physical or other to man or machine. follow this guide. Do so at your own discretion and risk. repairs should be conducted by a trained professional
Guide is correct, cheap crap internals wow wee.
Step1: unplug all wires. remove 3 screws on bottom near top. No screws are hidden or beneath rubber foot pads.
Step2: top keyboard shell is held in by pressure tabs, scan side edge of shell for the depressions.
Step3: insert thin flat plastic to depress tabs. I used a lifetime fitness card as to not marr plastic.
Step4: pull shell apart at first tab, continue depressing and prying until lid is removed.
Step5: firmly pull straight up and off on key shelf, its plugged in like an IDE to the usb hub.
Step5: locate key with problems, desolder with desoldering braid. Note! Copper Washer is under solder! Reuse it?
Step6: optional remove keycap from topside and push in the two tiny plastic tabs, remove switch
Step6-2: pry 4 tabs gently which hold switch together, make note or orientation of shell halves for reassembly
Step6-3: with carefully disassembled switch check for damage to metal contacts, plastic legs
Seeing contacts separate as they should upon testing.
Step 6-4: reassemble halves as observed earlier, test switch operation manually and reinsert.
Step 7: place copper washer over holes and apply solder to hold switch firmly in place and complete connection.
Step8: reassemble carefully as to avoid bending board connector ide style pins. A short is not good for you, system.
Step9: resnap top shell install 3 screws. Ya do a little dance and drink alittle wata.
Step10: enjoy
Disclaimer, I am not responsible for any damage or harm physical or other to man or machine. follow this guide. Do so at your own discretion and risk. repairs should be conducted by a trained professional
-
- Main keyboard: TT ESports Poseidon Z Blue Switches
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei Raw Black
- Favorite switch: Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey man did you ever get that fixed? I have had the same issues on quite a few of the switches on my Meka G1 and Meka G1 Prime Edition.... Not sure why but the solder points on the PCB are shitty and seem to crack and stop working pretty often until I have re soldered it and then it never happens again on the the keys I fixes. I am more than happy to upload a tutorial on how to take it apart, clean the PCB, remove the old Solder points, resolder it with decent quality solder and then put it all back together. I have also used a few other types of fixing by running wires straight from the switches onto the PCB which seems to work much better but I think its worth it cause it saves you from buying a whole new Keyboard and only takes a few min each switch. Hope all is well and let me know if i can help out in anyways, I do keyboard, PC, Motherboard, TV, etc. Repair and have a decent amount of experience with such things and am happy to help out in anyway possible!
So if anyone has questions or think I might be able to help please just message me and ill see what I can do. Btw first time here so very happy to be here!
Thanks,
Mark - PITPPYGaming
So if anyone has questions or think I might be able to help please just message me and ill see what I can do. Btw first time here so very happy to be here!
Thanks,
Mark - PITPPYGaming