IBM Model M keyboard search
- swampangel
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 101
- DT Pro Member: -
If you don't want to buy one, you can try the pen trick: viewtopic.php?p=34013#p34013
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
swampangel wrote: ↑06 Feb 2020, 14:54If you don't want to buy one, you can try the pen trick: viewtopic.php?p=34013#p34013
Hahaha
Good one, love it:)
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Ordered one on amazon, came in today, 5.5mm
Opened it up.
Few rivets are gone, but whole board is stable.
What do you guys think?
No need for bolt mod just now?
Opened it up.
Few rivets are gone, but whole board is stable.
What do you guys think?
No need for bolt mod just now?
- zrrion
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: Microsoft IntelliMouse
- Favorite switch: ALPS SKCC Cream
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
You could potentially just screw mod the few broken rivets for now, and do a full screw mod later.
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- Location: Poland
- Main keyboard: F AT
- Main mouse: Zowie FK2
- Favorite switch: Clicky ones!
As long as it shows no issues I'd leave it as is
- swampangel
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 101
- DT Pro Member: -
If it feels good to type on, leave it. If there are keys that feel noticeably mushy, you might want to add screws in that area of the board.
- phinix
- Location: Scotland - Glasgow
- Main keyboard: CM QuickFire Rapid MX Blacks -- Realforce R1 55g
- Main mouse: Logitech Pro Superlight
- Favorite switch: Topre, MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Cool, thansk guys.
Feels all good now, I guess with time I may need to this mod.
Typing on it now, feels great:)
I gave it a good clean - used whiskey to clean all insides, plate, between keys, all nice and clean now.
Cleaned case top and bottom, cleaned cable.
Now it looks like new:)
Feels all good now, I guess with time I may need to this mod.
Typing on it now, feels great:)
I gave it a good clean - used whiskey to clean all insides, plate, between keys, all nice and clean now.
Cleaned case top and bottom, cleaned cable.
Now it looks like new:)
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- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Just be sure to use Bic branded pen rather than a cheap chinese generic pen.swampangel wrote: ↑06 Feb 2020, 14:54If you don't want to buy one, you can try the pen trick: viewtopic.php?p=34013#p34013
Some person might have cheapened out and I tried to open industrial Model M case by molting a cheap chinese generic pens. By doing so, that some person might have ended up with plastic covered threads on a screw and the hole surrounding it, which made the case essentially impregnable fortress that cannot ever be opened.
Cannot confirm that the person was actually me, but it is certainly possible. Even likely.
- Howard81
- Location: London, UK
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M/F
- Main mouse: Not fussed
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
If you only have a handful of broken rivets don't bother with a full bolt/screw mod, just drill out the failed rivets with a 1/16" dill bit and replace them with M2 6mm machine screws. Don't tighten them hard, just enough to grip while still allowing the springs to move freely back and forth in the barrel.
I will generally only do a full screw mod on a board that either needs to be taken apart (dead membrane or broken striker) or has a ton of broken rivets.
I will generally only do a full screw mod on a board that either needs to be taken apart (dead membrane or broken striker) or has a ton of broken rivets.