Remove paint from F/AT keyboard case?
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- Location: Texas
- Main keyboard: Model M 1390120
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: IBM BS/CMX Red/Black/Fujitsu Leaf Spring
I want to remove the paint from an IBM Model F/AT keyboard case (just the top half), without damaging the case. Just wondering what the best way to do this is? I did already remove the metal IBM badge. Thanks for your advice!!
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Well, my AT is smooth plastic, so I wouldn't try that myself. Think I remember hearing something about different case materials though.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I think that you will regret messing with it. Model F cases have a textured off-white "skin" over a smooth white body core.
That is why people modify 1st generation Model M 122 top shells to replace F-122 case tops, which are also much more brittle than the plastic used for M cases.
That is why people modify 1st generation Model M 122 top shells to replace F-122 case tops, which are also much more brittle than the plastic used for M cases.
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- Location: Texas
- Main keyboard: Model M 1390120
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: IBM BS/CMX Red/Black/Fujitsu Leaf Spring
My F case is painted. It is not like Model M cases that mostly weren't painted. I'm trying to remove the paint so I can repaint it, as the original paint is in bad shape. It looks awful, and I know I can spruce it up by painting it. I don't care about the original textured paint in the least. I just want to get the paint off of there so I can do my own thing with the case. I'm using some powerful ethanol and paint thinner-type products but this paint will... not... budge.
- funkmon
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Model M
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm not being helpful here really, but a friend of mine got some car touch up paint in the same colour and just painted the parts that had it coming off. Doesn't look as good as a whole new paint job, but it looked better from 3 feet, which is most of what we want anyway.modelf wrote: ↑15 Nov 2023, 03:03My F case is painted. It is not like Model M cases that mostly weren't painted. I'm trying to remove the paint so I can repaint it, as the original paint is in bad shape. It looks awful, and I know I can spruce it up by painting it. I don't care about the original textured paint in the least. I just want to get the paint off of there so I can do my own thing with the case. I'm using some powerful ethanol and paint thinner-type products but this paint will... not... budge.
- jsheradin
- Location: USA
In my experience, the F paint is at least slightly soluble in isopropyl alcohol. You could probably splash some on a rag, let it soak for a while, and then go over it with a stiff plastic bristle brush. I'm not sure what iso would do to the underlying plastic though - probably not great for it.
Best option is probably going the mechanical route. Get yourself some assorted grits of sandpaper and go to work.
As far as new paints, you'll definitely want something better than standard rattle-can. Most stuff you can find at a home improvement store won't hold up to any real use. I've had good luck with catalyzed enamel meant for car door handles and similar. There's a plethora of epoxy based paints meant for firearms stuff you can choose from too.
Best option is probably going the mechanical route. Get yourself some assorted grits of sandpaper and go to work.
As far as new paints, you'll definitely want something better than standard rattle-can. Most stuff you can find at a home improvement store won't hold up to any real use. I've had good luck with catalyzed enamel meant for car door handles and similar. There's a plethora of epoxy based paints meant for firearms stuff you can choose from too.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Keychron K12
- Main mouse: Logitech M705
- Favorite switch: Black Switches of Any Sort
Seconding jsheradin.
I tried cleaning my F AT with isopropyl and my heart sunk when I saw I was removing paint.
I managed to sorta smooth it and hide what I had done by doing a 50/50 99% iso / water mix and a sponge.
So yeah, the paint is at least soluble in isopropyl alcohol
I tried cleaning my F AT with isopropyl and my heart sunk when I saw I was removing paint.
I managed to sorta smooth it and hide what I had done by doing a 50/50 99% iso / water mix and a sponge.
So yeah, the paint is at least soluble in isopropyl alcohol
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Customized Model F AT
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Pro
- Favorite switch: Holy Panda / Box Jade
Wait... are the AT/XT top-shells painted? I've got an XT, three ATs, and a few spare shells, and I would have never guessed they're painted. Even where they're scratched or bumped, the color doesn't seem to change.
On the other hand, external "pebble" texture is very similar to the original paint on my 3276 Beamspring, and when I stripped that it was clear the texture came from the paint, not the material (that was a task!). That might also explain why the inside of the shells have such a rough texture if they're painted all around. I can't guess why you'd texture an interior mold surface.
If they are painted, the texture very likely comes from the paint, meaning it is thick and hard, so the only way you're likely to remove it is sandpaper. Removal is just going to be "sand until smooth." Now, if that's really a good idea or not is a different discussion. If the paint is in bad shape, I'd sand lightly to deal with any flakes or separation, then prime with a good plastic primer. I usually use engine enamel for non-metallic parts I can't powder coat.
On the other hand, external "pebble" texture is very similar to the original paint on my 3276 Beamspring, and when I stripped that it was clear the texture came from the paint, not the material (that was a task!). That might also explain why the inside of the shells have such a rough texture if they're painted all around. I can't guess why you'd texture an interior mold surface.
If they are painted, the texture very likely comes from the paint, meaning it is thick and hard, so the only way you're likely to remove it is sandpaper. Removal is just going to be "sand until smooth." Now, if that's really a good idea or not is a different discussion. If the paint is in bad shape, I'd sand lightly to deal with any flakes or separation, then prime with a good plastic primer. I usually use engine enamel for non-metallic parts I can't powder coat.