Alps Party 60%

[BlueNalgene]

Major update -

A change was made to the AT101 plate. It now has 1u middle keys on the bottom row. See pic for details.
Added HHKB style plate per the request of some of the members in the IC.

And now for the quote roundup since I slept:

Okay, before I get too excited... how many American Credits would it cost me to get just one single plate shipped to the EU? The shipping and import fees are completely killing it for me unfortunately, at that price I'd be better off having one manufactured here somewhere which totally sucks.

I don't know where in EU you are, but there are several estimates in the FAQ portion for INTL shipping. If you want another country added to that list, let me know.

I've always been interested in trying out the matias linear switches so this board would be a good way for me.

However if I get a PCB+plate+switches that would be around 80$. Shipping and duties would be around 60$. And I would be missing keycaps (probably I could get an AEK2 ANSI for 20-30$) and a case (no idea here). All summed up comes too close to the 200$ price point for me to consider it :/ And at this point I wonder what's difference from the infinity board after all?

The difference is that this uses Alps. Build a mountain with your own hands!

OK, so here's the reality (speaking for UK, but I think most of the EU countries are similar). We don't pay duty/customs until we hit $200 or thereabouts. However! We do pay VAT (sales tax for you US people), which is about 20%, for anything that has a declared value (including shipping) of about $25 and (here's the kicker) an extra "processing-fee-because-we-can-charge-you-whatever-we-want-and-you-can-do-f**k-all-about-it" which is something between $12-$25 depending largely on luck.

So - if the declared package value would be $20 (shipping cost usually doesn't show up on the envelope/parcel), with the proviso that if it gets damaged or lost it's tough luck for the buyer, then we'd be good. I am loudly *not* suggesting that BlueNalgene should just declare the value to be $20 regardless of the actual value, because that would be tax (and senseless fee) evasion, punishable in most countries by a fine, an eternal condemnation from the authorities, and maybe death of you and your family up to and including aunts (but not uncles!).

for anything that has a declared value (including shipping) of about $25 and (here's the kicker) an extra "processing-fee-because-we-can-charge-you-whatever-we-want-and-you-can-do-f**k-all-about-it" which is something between $12-$25 depending largely on luck.

Exactly this. Over here, everything over €18 basically costs marginally more. VAT, processing charges, plus the shipping costs. Declaring a lower value or no value would probably solve it. He's not running a business and doesn't need profit ... so just theoretically sell it with a loss
That's where the Chinese have the upper hand! Never paid any import fees for any package ^^

The estimates in the FAQ above are based on a $100 dollar estimate. Colluding to engage in tax evasion is a serious offense. I will, in no way, knowingly misrepresent the value of the imported item to your country. Unfortunately, I suffer from occasional bouts of an acute dyslexia where I replace some numbers with the number 20. It is a debilitating illness that I would never make light of. If some values on the customs forms end up being accidentally switched like this as some have requested in private already, it would be entirely by happenstance.

[HzFaq]

Blue, you are a good human being.

Please make sure you're feeling particularly dyslexic when filling out my customs form.

[BlueNalgene]

i will try my hadrset to be vrey dixlesyc jsut for yuo.

[scottc]

Yes, there are indeed examples in the OP, but I asked for the price of shipping of just one single plate.

Very happy to see the modified AT101 plate! I'll likely get this guy.

[BlueNalgene]

Ireland would be $17.95 shipping.

[scottc]

Right, thanks. So just a plate would cost me about $50 shipped. I'll have to think about that. Thanks.

[Hypersphere]

I just realized that if I go with either the Infinity or HHKB plate, I only need stabilizers for 3 keys: Return/Enter, Left Shift, and the Spacebar. Is there a list somewhere of the keycaps/stabilizers that will work with each of the plate layouts?

[BlueNalgene]

I don't know about sources for the stabilizers, though there are some ideas being tossed around for getting new ones.

Nickheller on GH may have been cruelly tricked into buying wire bending tools by one njbair. He might be convinced to make wires.

A few people mentioned starting a Matias stabilizer GB, but nothing has moved forward on it. This wouldn't be the correct wire length, but it would be some of the parts you need for the Infinity and HHKB layouts.

[BlueNalgene]

Updated the counts. The powder coating option has now passed MOQ, and the Quiet Click switches have breached into a lower price bracket.

Some users on GH noticed that the Dell plates only can use non-stepped caps lock. Both stepped and unstepped will be available. It is going to confuse me to add any more plates to this buy, so I'm just going to let people order. When it comes time for me to send an invoice, I will send a question out to all of the participants who ordered a Dell style plate and just ask if they wanted stepped or unstepped caps lock.

To reiterate: Whether you want to use a stepped caps lock on your dell type board or not, I can take care of you. Don't worry about a thing babydoll. I will just ask you to clarify which one you want when I send the invoice.

[Hypersphere]

I am cross-posting this here from GH in case there are those on DT who do not read GH. It is also possible that some people here on DT might be on the fence like I am concerning which plate to get and how to source the corresponding stabilizers. So, here is my post from GH:

I'm dithering over which plates to get and sourcing or making the stabilizers. I would like to end up with a HHKB layout or something easily remapped to the same. When I am not using my HHKB, I currently have a V60MTS remapped to a HHKB layout. So, the plates I am considering are the HHKB, Infinity Hacker, and AT101W. Maybe someone could push me in the right direction regarding choice of plates and sourcing/making the stabilizers.

BlueNalgene has kindly responded already on GH saying that if I already have keycaps, this could help with the decision. Yes, I do have keycaps. For example, my V60MTS has alphas from an IBM 5140 and mods plus spacebar purchased from Matias. I have another set just like this waiting for another Alps-switch keyboard. In addition, I plan to purchase the Alpine Winter set.

[pyrelink]

I am struggling with the same thing. I already have my current AEK Alps board so I was thinking something with a good function key position like the HHKB or Infinity. I will be getting Alpine Winter as well. As for stabilizers, I already have a bunch harvested from old Alps boards, which I assume should work just fine. I will probably just mull the decision on plates over for a while, and put in my order at the last minute.

[Hypersphere]

@pyrelink: Based on my own experience and some recent advice from GH, I am leaning toward the standard AT101W plate. This should maximize availability of keycaps and stabilizers. Although I would prefer to have a split Right Shift with a Fn key to the right of the Right Shift, I have used Right Ctrl as Fn on standard layout boards and this works well for me.

[Hypersphere]

Thanks for organizing this.

Just wanted to confirm about cases. When I tried to install my V60MTS into a TEK CNC aluminum case for 60% keyboards, I found that the necessary holes in the PCB and plate were not there, so the case did not work. So, the PCBs and plates for this GB will indeed have the necessary holes to line up with the screw mounts in standard aluminum cases for 60% keyboards?

And stabilizers for Matias keycaps on a standard layout board such as the Infinity standard?

I have no clue about the holes on the V60MTS. However the holes on the plate and board are designed to fit with the TEX Aluminum as well as a plethora of others. Some users reported that the TEX Aluminum caused issues with the diodes on the PCB though, so you may need a dielectric in there if you intend to use that case.

Do you have recommendations of materials or coatings to use to prevent electrical shorts in aluminum cases and how to install or apply these?

[chzel]

I guess plain electrical tape should be sufficient.

[Hypersphere]

I guess plain electrical tape should be sufficient.

Yes, that should do nicely. I was just wondering if there happened to be ready-made thin plastic sheets for this purpose. I suppose one could cut a plastic sheet to fit the case with holes for the screw mounts. Alternatively, perhaps a thin layer of foam could double as an insulator and sound suppressor.

[BlueNalgene]

I was just wondering if there happened to be ready-made thin plastic sheets for this purpose. I suppose one could cut a plastic sheet to fit the case with holes for the screw mounts.

You have some options for easy dielectric sheeting. My first thought was a Kapton sheet, which I've used before for thermal insulation, but then I remembered vinyl wrapping. You can get some adhesive vinyl wrap (often found in the automotive section of Amazon) and put that on the inside of your case.

[Muirium]

What's the story re: Hasu's PCB and aftermarket (especially metal) Poker cases and USB sockets? Is there a micro or mini USB port right on the PCB, just where it should be to line up with a Poker's? How about strain relief?

[BlueNalgene]

What's the story re: Hasu's PCB and aftermarket (especially metal) Poker cases and USB sockets? Is there a micro or mini USB port right on the PCB, just where it should be to line up with a Poker's? How about strain relief?

The USB port is on the correct side to line up with the aftermarket poker cases, except the KBP V60 which requires some minor modifications.

Strain relief? Not sure what you mean by that. Do you need a massage?

[Muirium]

I would, after any keyboard handling mishaps with a cable plugged into a bare PCB socket like that! Strain relief is important stuff:

(strān rē-lēf´) (n.) Used in reference to cables that are designed to allow the cables to move without cracking and/or breaking away from the plug or connector that connects to an electrical outlet or a hardware device. The strain relief is typically a series of ridges at the point where the cabling meets the connector or plug that allows flexibility in the cable without putting stress on that vulnerable point in the cord.

Typically, keyboards with a socket for their cable actually have a separately mounted socket which is internally wired to the PCB. That means if you step on the cable, or give it any other kind of accidental strain, the energy goes into the dumb socket and its mounting, instead of tearing a delicate header right off your PCB.

Strain relief can be handled along the cable instead, like all those cable management channels you see on boards with fixed cables. But a Poker case seems like the kind of thing that would forget about all that, to me.

[BlueNalgene]

Ah, that makes sense. The PCB in this buy uses a surface mount socket directly soldered to the board. If you were feeling industrious, you could make a breakout board mod to wire on those spots separately, however that would probably conflict with the case. I have seen no reports of that being an issue on this board from the relatively small number of people who own one from a previous buy.

Sorry if that is a deal breaker for you.

[BlueNalgene]

Updated counts, nothing new/exciting to report.

[Paranoid]

In for a PCB and a plate! Had to restrain myself from ordering a lot more, already have enough stuff lying around ^^

[BlueNalgene]

Updated OP

I have an interest check going for Matias Stabilizers. Please fill out form if interested.

Edit: I guess I should add the link, right?

http://goo.gl/forms/qHFvbc8JoK

[BlueNalgene]

Things are winding down for the order phase. Everything is going really well so far.

The click switches and linear switches have passed the $0.20 price point, and the quiet click switches have passed the $0.18 price point. The plates and PCBs are still WAAAY beyond the MOQ, and I'm happy there has been such a response.

The order form will close TOMORROW about this time/whenever I wake up and get my shit together. So if you have been dawdling, now is the time to enter. Invoices will go out as soon as I finish them, and we will move forward from there.

[BlueNalgene]

The ordering period is now closed. I'm going to start working on the invoices.

If you still need to make changes to your order, hurry up and send me a PM.

Updated OP with counts

[BlueNalgene]

Invoices sent to members.

I have been doing this for 12 hours straight now, so if you have questions or issues with your invoice - go ahead and PM me. I won't get to it right away though. Must sleep.

[HzFaq]

Paid up, thanks dude.

[Muirium]

Best of luck to those of you in this. I had to stay out, but I reckon there'll be some sweet boards.

[BlueNalgene]

I realized I haven't updated this in a while.

The invoices are 74/96 paid. The PCBs have been ordered from hasu, and they are in production. The plates have been ordered from the laser cutters, so they will be in production early next week.

The stabilizer add-on group buy is closing in a few hours. After that is done, I will send an order to Matias and get the switches and stabilizer sets ordered (provided I have enough of the invoices paid by that point).

[Hypersphere]

@BlueNalgene: Thanks for the update. I will send my payment over the weekend.