Model MF - GB CLOSED
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I hate to force one or the other on anyone considering it is so split, but I have all the numbers together and really want to move forward with the last of these orders (outside of the electronics). I have no issues running another small mini-buy and doing alternate fasteners though if we did it early enough. I would actually be interested in torx for myself to be honest. And for something so simple we could utilize Google Forms.
The following are renders of the revised backplate. This incorporates all the changes that WCass and I have put together (with a few additional changes I am going to ask him to make on our behalf). All the holes are countersunk from the bottom, with the exception of 3. The three will hold and ground the PCB from the inside using the standoffs we mentioned previously. If additional grounding of the controller is needed, you can just the single screw on the top row with a pan head screw and a washer (or as many of those screws as you like really). All screws at the top and in the middle of the plate are m3. The screws on either side and on the bottom edge will be m2.5 because of the constraints we mentioned. This should be the final version of the backplate that you should expect to receive.
EDIT: also, all screw holes are now tapped (before we had two on the top edge that required nuts).
The following are renders of the revised backplate. This incorporates all the changes that WCass and I have put together (with a few additional changes I am going to ask him to make on our behalf). All the holes are countersunk from the bottom, with the exception of 3. The three will hold and ground the PCB from the inside using the standoffs we mentioned previously. If additional grounding of the controller is needed, you can just the single screw on the top row with a pan head screw and a washer (or as many of those screws as you like really). All screws at the top and in the middle of the plate are m3. The screws on either side and on the bottom edge will be m2.5 because of the constraints we mentioned. This should be the final version of the backplate that you should expect to receive.
EDIT: also, all screw holes are now tapped (before we had two on the top edge that required nuts).
Last edited by lot_lizard on 08 Jan 2017, 05:25, edited 2 times in total.
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
https://goo.gl/forms/OngAq2Uf3UM2ATfG3
Do it quickly if you are interested. I'm on my phone now so the form isn't the best, but should serve its purpose. This is an all or nothing election to have the alternate fasteners (so if you had more than one kit, this election would apply to all of those kits). Keep in mind there is no bad choice here, and no one that doesn't WANT torx/hex should feel the need to switch.
I'll send out a PM with the form link as well. Let's have these done by Wednesday if interested
Last edited by lot_lizard on 02 Jan 2017, 23:35, edited 1 time in total.
- E TwentyNine
- Main keyboard: AT Model F w/ Tenkeyless mod
- Main mouse: Logitech M310
- Favorite switch: Beam spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Will an alternate fastener require more work on your part (sourcing and including the tool(s))?lot_lizard wrote: ↑https://goo.gl/forms/OngAq2Uf3UM2ATfG3
You're welcome . Do it quickly if you are interested. I'm on my phone now so the form isn't the best, but should serve its purpose. This is an all or nothing election to have the alternate fasteners (no partial orders). Keep in mind there is no bad choice here, and no one that doesn't WANT torx (hex as a cost prohibitive backup) should feel the need to switch.
I'll send out a PM with the form link as well. Let's have these done by Wednesday
If one didn't want an alternate (sticking with phillips or even JIS), would they submit that form without checking the box?
What does "all or nothing" mean in this context?
- E TwentyNine
- Main keyboard: AT Model F w/ Tenkeyless mod
- Main mouse: Logitech M310
- Favorite switch: Beam spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I've been looking at the raw metal lizard's been posting and I'm wondering how well that would age unprotected.Ir0n wrote: ↑Signed.
._. now if only they was chromate coated to match my bored colors more... or blue that'd be neat. lol
Thank you lot_lizard :^)
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Like with the Phillips fasteners, if you elected the torx/hex option, I would assume you had the tools you needed already... and we wouldn't supply them for you. This is just something for those that REALLY want it since the polling was showing about half had interest (which surprised me). For those interested, the m2.5 screw would need a t8 and the m3 would need a t10 driver bitE TwentyNine wrote: ↑Will an alternate fastener require more work on your part (sourcing and including the tool(s))?
If you are comfortable with the Phillips (no reason not to be), there is no need to do anything. This is just a form to submit if you want the alternate fasteners.E TwentyNine wrote: ↑ If one didn't want an alternate (sticking with phillips or even JIS), would they submit that form without checking the box?
For people that had ordered more than one kit, I was just making this available as an option to apply to ALL kits they ordered versus having it apply to only a subset. Just wanted to make it easier for both them and me since I already have all of the numbers in handE TwentyNine wrote: ↑What does "all or nothing" mean in this context?
The last round of prototypes that were pictured were stainless steel (half polished) and would age very well. For everything we are doing here, it wouldn't do very well. It would need to be treated in some way not to rustE TwentyNine wrote: ↑[I've been looking at the raw metal lizard's been posting and I'm wondering how well that would age unprotected.
EDIT: updated some of the previous posts to make the points that E29 was making more clear
- E TwentyNine
- Main keyboard: AT Model F w/ Tenkeyless mod
- Main mouse: Logitech M310
- Favorite switch: Beam spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
OK, now I have to ask -- can we get chromate screws?
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I thought it was a clever suggestion too ... I am not sure how small their small parts baskets are (these screws are pretty tiny), but will certainly ask. I would plan on doubtful, but you never knowE TwentyNine wrote: ↑OK, now I have to ask -- can we get chromate screws?
- Techno Trousers
- 100,000,000 actuations
- Location: California
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F-122
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: 0159
I didn't get a chance to vote, but I'm glad that philips is the default. As wcass said, these are all hidden by the case, so after assembly I don't expect to see them again for decades at the earliest. May as well go with the easiest to service option for future generations.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
torx all the way man!
Philips are outdated and the reason for there existence (no torque limiting on electronic drivers) is no longer a thing.
Sooner everything switches to torx the better.
And the less said about flat head the better... the 1500s called , they want there screws back.
Philips are outdated and the reason for there existence (no torque limiting on electronic drivers) is no longer a thing.
Sooner everything switches to torx the better.
And the less said about flat head the better... the 1500s called , they want there screws back.
- Nuum
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: KBD8X Mk I (60g Clears), Phantom (Nixdorf Blacks)
- Main mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB
- Favorite switch: 60g MX Clears/Brown Alps/Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0084
I would love to get torx screws as well, simply because from my experience they are superior, but I just don't have the tools for them around.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
You should just buy a small Torx set anyway.
T9 will open old hard drives and they have amazing magnets in them.
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Just a couple of updates. The alternative fastener form is working, though I haven't confirmed with any one (27 participants so far)And we received our vinyl stickers in. When I open up later, I'll snap some pics. Will be out of town most of the next two weeks for work
Spoiler:
- Techno Trousers
- 100,000,000 actuations
- Location: California
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F-122
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: 0159
Darn it, now I'm waffling. Does anyone have a link to a known good set of bits (max durability) that include T8, T9, and T10? Most of the small torx bit sets I see on Amazon are the security type with the open hole in the middle, and I'm sure that's going to make them significantly weaker.andrewjoy wrote:torx all the way man!
Philips are outdated and the reason for there existence (no torque limiting on electronic drivers) is no longer a thing.
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Tamper proof isn't bad for small things like this since it would work for both in the future if you ever needed. It really depends what you mean by "good". If you don't expect to use them too much, and since you are in the states, Craftsman would be a reasonable quality tool for the hobbyist/tinker that is competitively priced. I would pick something with a lifetime warranty (though that is meaning less all the time since even cheap junk is protected by that).Techno Trousers wrote: ↑Does anyone have a link to a known good set of bits (max durability) that include T8, T9, and T10? Most of the small torx bit sets I see on Amazon are the security type with the open hole in the middle, and I'm sure that's going to make them significantly weaker.
If I was only going to have one set, and I already had a proper 1/4 and 3/8 inch socket set... I would probably opt for Torx socket bits. Usually those combination sets that people already have include a hand driver (think screwdriver for sockets). You would be able to apply additional torque to things in the future that need it via the ratchet, and they store well. The only downside would be clearance in tight locations or deep recessed screws. I use them OFTEN.
If you are getting the hand-driven only variety, I would recommend T-handles. It really depends what your end goal is with them, and what your price point would be.
All that said, Phillips is certainly not a bad choice
- livingspeedbump
- Not what they seem
- Location: North Carolina, USA
- Main keyboard: Realforce 87u 55g
- Main mouse: CST Trackball
- Favorite switch: 55g Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0122
- Contact:
Voted, filled out the additional survey for torx.
But honestly, end of the day I'm going to be just fine with whatever shows up.
But honestly, end of the day I'm going to be just fine with whatever shows up.
- E TwentyNine
- Main keyboard: AT Model F w/ Tenkeyless mod
- Main mouse: Logitech M310
- Favorite switch: Beam spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I bought a cheapo torx hand driver a while back when pulling apart hard drives. Basically an oversized jeweler's screwdriver with interchangeable tips. They held up ok, think I twisted one of the smallest bits on a particularly tough screw, but it still fits.lot_lizard wrote: ↑ I would probably opt for Torx socket bits. Usually those combination sets that people already have include a hand driver (think screwdriver for sockets). You would be able to apply additional torque to things in the future that need it via the ratchet, and they store well. The only downside would be clearance in tight locations or deep recessed screws. I use them OFTEN.
Another option is a folding key set. I have these for both hex and torx, and you can fold out the keys you're not using and get a T-like handle. Much more portable than a bunch of T-handles too.lot_lizard wrote: ↑ If you are getting the hand-driven only variety, I would recommend T-handles. It really depends what your end goal is with them, and what your price point would be.
- micrex22
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: UltraNav
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
This is the torx set I use, made by Wiha:Techno Trousers wrote: ↑ Darn it, now I'm waffling. Does anyone have a link to a known good set of bits (max durability) that include T8, T9, and T10? Most of the small torx bit sets I see on Amazon are the security type with the open hole in the middle, and I'm sure that's going to make them significantly weaker.
https://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-26791-8-p ... river-set/
Very high quality bits on the drivers, and they have T1 (which is what I needed). I was looking at ebay actually, and I think cheap manufacturers don't have the tooling to make T1. Honestly, a T1 bit is something to behold in person.
If you don't need T1, then you could get this set:
https://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-26796-8-p ... pouch-set/
It has T8, T9 and T10.
- Techno Trousers
- 100,000,000 actuations
- Location: California
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F-122
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: 0159
Thanks, everyone. My go-to screwdriver set is a Gearwrench 8940, which includes three ratcheting handles including a T-handle, various extensions, and a selection of bits. This set might not survive industrial use, but I really like the fine-tooth ratcheting, and the bits have held up really well to years of (occasional hobbyist) use. It does come with a selection of Torx bits, so I'll have to see whether I need to get any other specific torx bits to round out the bit selection I already have. I also just remembered I have a big security bit set too and it has most everything under the sun (it's cheap Harbor Freight though--mostly I keep that around just in case).
I'm on board for torx now.
I'm on board for torx now.
- Techno Trousers
- 100,000,000 actuations
- Location: California
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F-122
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: 0159
Ha ha, I actually used those when I built the workbench in my garage about 15 years ago. They were definitely much nicer for driving with my drill than Phillips screws.alh84001 wrote:How do you feel about Pozidriv?andrewjoy wrote: ↑ Sooner everything switches to torx the better.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
- Ray
- Location: Germany
- Main mouse: touchpad
- DT Pro Member: -
We are using PZ for most screws at work. There is an improvement over PH. When you slip (not if, when), the wear on the screwhead is not as bad as with PH. So as long as you are careful, you don't end up with totally worn heads and should be able to unscrew several times without issues.
But if you want more than ~10 Nm torque, PZ2 is a bad choice.
But if you want more than ~10 Nm torque, PZ2 is a bad choice.
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I am shutting this form for the alternative (torx) fasteners down today. If you would like to participate in that, do so by this evening.
https://goo.gl/forms/OngAq2Uf3UM2ATfG3
43 participants so far (more than enough to drive volume pricing)When I return from my work trip, I will begin printing the side spacers. They are modified now to act as a debris shield that is inset inside the entire length of the assembly plates. I would consider putting some message/artwork/logo/pattern into the visible side portion, if anyone had thoughts. Everything is being cleaned up and productized quite a bit with all final designs, and this would be an opportunity as well if we felt that it added to the end result in a positive way. The following are the final version of the spacers/debris shields. The left side will be notched on the bottom to let the PCB have clearance.
https://goo.gl/forms/OngAq2Uf3UM2ATfG3
43 participants so far (more than enough to drive volume pricing)
Spoiler:
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
The following are the renders of the SSK top plate with updated layouts for our top ridge and spacers. It dawned on me after searching that I never published the renders for the top plate(s) after adding the wire stabilizers for spacebar and all of the legacy F keys
Last edited by lot_lizard on 14 Jan 2017, 02:08, edited 3 times in total.