IBM Model M BT-USB controller conversion kits
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
well, snoopy is not gonna report back anytime soon, unfortunately his controller board got brutalized by some manic-depressive psycho postal worker. Honestly, it had never occured to me that this kind of thing could happen in Germany. Apparently I was wrong. I'll ask him to post a picture of the broken controller board so that we can share the grief.
- snoopy
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM SSK '93
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: 0022
Ever connected a SSK via bluetooth to an iPhone? This is so wrong,... but feels so good...
(Cable is only plugged in cause my battery was empty)
Will write a proper review and maybe do a typing video soon. If you're struggling to buy one of these controllers... BUY ONE!
(Cable is only plugged in cause my battery was empty)
Will write a proper review and maybe do a typing video soon. If you're struggling to buy one of these controllers... BUY ONE!
- Dingster
- Location: Slovenia
- Main keyboard: Novatouch
- Main mouse: MX518
- DT Pro Member: -
You are doing gods work haha. Please make a video (in public too haha)snoopy wrote: ↑Ever connected a SSK via bluetooth to an iPhone? This is so wrong,... but feels so good...
(Cable is only plugged in cause my battery was empty)
Will write a proper review and maybe do a typing video soon. If you're struggling to buy one of these controllers... BUY ONE!
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- Main keyboard: Shine 2
- Main mouse: Trackball
- Favorite switch: Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
can you guys help confirm that
this is the link that has new BT4 and works for both SSK and standard?
I want to get one!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152924247783
this is the link that has new BT4 and works for both SSK and standard?
I want to get one!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152924247783
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
yes, that's it. I keep relisting the item, so, unfortunately, the id gets changed everytime I relist it.invisiblefly wrote: ↑can you guys help confirm that
this is the link that has new BT4 and works for both SSK and standard?
I want to get one!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152924247783
I'd prefer if you contact me directly though no need to shove more money down greedy Ebay's throat for nothing. =)
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
is there a way to merge this thread and the other one for the M122 controller? If there is, threads will be merged at some point in the near future...
I'm currently working on stepping up my DIY PCB manufacturing game, so if you've placed an order, hang tight.
I'm currently working on stepping up my DIY PCB manufacturing game, so if you've placed an order, hang tight.
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
hey guys, I'm making another batch right now (12 PCBs), mainly for the people who've pre-ordered one and have been waiting for forever, and for the people who've signaled their interest in a replacement controller for their M122. Let me know if you're interested.
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
time to bump this thread again... just letting you guys know, this project is alive and well. I hope more people will post about their experience in the near future. =)
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
ah, and btw, I'm looking for a proxy to buy replacement parts from Unicomp. I need Model M space bars, most of all!
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
I can proxy from Unicomp if it's someone in the US you are needing.
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks but I suppose I will need someone who's not running a business and willing to state the total shipment value à la Chinoise... I suppose you're unable to accomodate me in that respect, right?Blaise170 wrote: ↑I can proxy from Unicomp if it's someone in the US you are needing.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0129
- Contact:
Actually, I'll PM you.
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
I've finished making another run of controller boards and can still take about 10 additional orders at this point, so let me know if you're interested.
I thought some people might care about this sort of thing so I've uploaded a short clip of a laser session. After coating the boards with Mechanic brand UV curable solder mask (I use a stencil and a squeegee to apply a very thin and even layer) I use a CO2 laser machine to remove the solder mask from the solder pads. Even though my methods are pretty DIY and not very precise, the overall quality of the results is pretty amazing. The video is not of good quality but it will give you the basic idea.
I thought some people might care about this sort of thing so I've uploaded a short clip of a laser session. After coating the boards with Mechanic brand UV curable solder mask (I use a stencil and a squeegee to apply a very thin and even layer) I use a CO2 laser machine to remove the solder mask from the solder pads. Even though my methods are pretty DIY and not very precise, the overall quality of the results is pretty amazing. The video is not of good quality but it will give you the basic idea.
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- Location: Indonesia
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi..., do you accept Bitcoin?mind_prepared wrote: ↑hey guys, I'm making another batch right now (12 PCBs), mainly for the people who've pre-ordered one and have been waiting for forever, and for the people who've signaled their interest in a replacement controller for their M122. Let me know if you're interested.
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
heh, why, you tryin to launder drug money or sumptin? Nah, sorry, no Bitcoin, I don't even know what that is. By the by, actually, good ol' bank transfer used to be the payment method of choice in Germany until recently (and still is for safe transactions between German bank accounts). Bitcoin sounds like there's not gonna be any kind of buyer protection since it's not run by a company that offers payment services, so if you can do without buyer protection why not just use PayPal or bank transfer?harmur wrote: ↑Hi..., do you accept Bitcoin?
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- Location: Daiting
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: Cherry JM-03
- Favorite switch: ALT+F4
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi
I have the standard keyboard with the hybrid controller and a 2000mah battery.
It works like a charm with:
- Windows 10 1809 (tested Bluetooth and USB)
- Mac OS X 10.11 (El Capitan) (tested Bluetooth and USB)
- Android 7.1.2 and 8.1 (tested Bluetooth)
I have the standard keyboard with the hybrid controller and a 2000mah battery.
It works like a charm with:
- Windows 10 1809 (tested Bluetooth and USB)
- Mac OS X 10.11 (El Capitan) (tested Bluetooth and USB)
- Android 7.1.2 and 8.1 (tested Bluetooth)
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- Location: South Africa
- Main keyboard: IBM model M
- DT Pro Member: -
I am really so impressed by this work. I couldn't imagine a blue tooth model M, but this makes it a breeze. It is obvious that a lot of time was spent developing this replacement board. I just hope enough people find it worth their while to support this. I am equally impressed by the candidness of the seller and the time spent on replying to this thread and questions from buyers. Great work.
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- Location: Germany
- DT Pro Member: -
@mind_prepared:
Any chance to get a complete bundle, i only saw the basic kit (pcb) on eBay.
I'm looking for:
Please include shipping with insurance, like DHL packet.
Thank you & nice weekend, Mechaniker
Any chance to get a complete bundle, i only saw the basic kit (pcb) on eBay.
I'm looking for:
- 16+8+4 version
1200 mAh Lipo
USB-B-›USB-A cable
Replacement LED daughterboard
BT-USB-bridge/BT-USB HID Proxy
Please include shipping with insurance, like DHL packet.
Thank you & nice weekend, Mechaniker
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- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model M / Ducky Shine 5
- Main mouse: Logitech M590
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm a bit of a noob regarding customizing keyboard output and macro's, so bear with me; would it be possible to use the macro feature to essentially bind a key combination or something like that to a specific scan code? More specifically, to be able to use the WIndows key functionality with a Model M?
I'd imagine it working something like binding RCTRL-RALT to the Winkey output, so RCTRL-RALT + L would be the same as Win + L (Lock Console)
I'd imagine it working something like binding RCTRL-RALT to the Winkey output, so RCTRL-RALT + L would be the same as Win + L (Lock Console)
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes. All the macro function does is sending a key report stored in the EEPROM. A macro can be recorded on the fly, or, alternatively, you can edit a pre-defined macro file and just add the keys to be included in the key report and then upload the macro table with the CLI.ijdod wrote: ↑would it be possible to use the macro feature to essentially bind a key combination or something like that to a specific scan code?
That's something entirely different. What you have in mind is called 'chording' which is pretty much the opposite or, if you will, complement of defining macro keys. With a macro, one key press generates multiple key codes to be sent concurrently while with chording, multiple concurrent key presses, a 'chord' so to speak (as on a piano), generate only one key code. I hadn't given a thought to sophisticated stuff like macros and chording in the beginning because I didn't (and still don't) like the idea of competing in any way with the real pros (TMK etc), but I may look into it at some later point, thanks for the suggestion.More specifically, to be able to use the WIndows key functionality with a Model M? I'd imagine it working something like binding RCTRL-RALT to the Winkey output, so RCTRL-RALT + L would be the same as Win + L (Lock Console)
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- Location: Bochum
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M 1391403
- Main mouse: Cherry MC 2000
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
TL;DR This is a great product: a flawlessly working, no-hassle drop-in replacement for your original IBM Model M controller at a very reasonable price.
The other day, I got a custom made controller from Jörn for my Model M and I wanted to share the experience. I opened the case of the keyboard, took out the original controller, put the new one in, closed the case and was done. It was that simple.
I had used an active PS/2-USB converter beforehand. But time and again, the keyboard would stop working or start generating special characters instead of the regular alphanumerics and I had to unplug the cable and plug it in again to 'reset' the converter. Finally, I had enough and decided to replace the controller with Jörn’s kit.
Communication with Jörn was fast and easy: Since I do not need or want a Bluetooth connection, I asked him whether he could make a version of his board that only supports USB. He could and he did – and leaving out the Bluetooth components and battery shaved a couple of Euros off the bill. Nice.
Jörn’s controller fits perfectly. I did not have to make any modifications to the case as the board slides right into place. (If I ever feel like putting the original controller back in, I can do so easily.) To reduce the mechanical strain on the USB connector, I am probably going to attach the board to the case with adhesive pads but this does not seem to be strictly necessary.
Jörn has asked me what improvements could be made to the kit. Honestly, I cannot think of anything. But I would have to add that I do not even use most of the controller’s impressive functionality (Bluetooth and programmability). I am happy to simply plug in a USB cable and be done with it. The instructions provided by Jörn are very detailed. But really, since there is no Bluetooth connectivity on my board, I did not have to read any of it to get the controller up and running. The USB connection just works "out of the box".
As an aside: Because my machine is a Mac and my Model M is a German 1391403 with additional Mac keycaps bought from Unicomp, I use Karabiner Elements to remap some keys (right Option to right Command, swap "non_us_backslash" with "grave_accent_and_tilde" and so on) and to make the function keys serve double duty as media keys.
I would also like to say something about the cost of the controller as it has been the subject of some discussion here. I see it like this: I spent around 40 Euros for the keyboard itself on Ebay (and I think this was a good deal considering the condition of the piece), 35 dollars on Mac keycaps and a new spacebar from Unicomp (including international shipping), about 10 Euros for a 7/32" nut driver and some more Euros for high quality bolts and nuts (for the bolt mod). Of course, I also put in a considerable amount of time to disassemble, clean and bolt mod the keyboard. Without Jörn’s controller, one needs to add another 10 Euros, or so, for a PS/2-USB converter – which, as in my case, might not work. In relation to that, spending some 75 Euros (again: I got it a bit cheaper because no Bluetooth) for a "clean" and rock solid solution was an excellent deal for me. I think many Model M owners (most?) spend a significant amount of time and money to get their keyboards just right. Investing in this very capable controller seems a no brainer to me.
I got the board as a Christmas present for myself. And now I have a properly working Model M with no stupid, unreliable PS/2-USB converter sitting on my desk and no more unplugging/replugging of cables. Yay!
The other day, I got a custom made controller from Jörn for my Model M and I wanted to share the experience. I opened the case of the keyboard, took out the original controller, put the new one in, closed the case and was done. It was that simple.
I had used an active PS/2-USB converter beforehand. But time and again, the keyboard would stop working or start generating special characters instead of the regular alphanumerics and I had to unplug the cable and plug it in again to 'reset' the converter. Finally, I had enough and decided to replace the controller with Jörn’s kit.
Communication with Jörn was fast and easy: Since I do not need or want a Bluetooth connection, I asked him whether he could make a version of his board that only supports USB. He could and he did – and leaving out the Bluetooth components and battery shaved a couple of Euros off the bill. Nice.
Jörn’s controller fits perfectly. I did not have to make any modifications to the case as the board slides right into place. (If I ever feel like putting the original controller back in, I can do so easily.) To reduce the mechanical strain on the USB connector, I am probably going to attach the board to the case with adhesive pads but this does not seem to be strictly necessary.
Jörn has asked me what improvements could be made to the kit. Honestly, I cannot think of anything. But I would have to add that I do not even use most of the controller’s impressive functionality (Bluetooth and programmability). I am happy to simply plug in a USB cable and be done with it. The instructions provided by Jörn are very detailed. But really, since there is no Bluetooth connectivity on my board, I did not have to read any of it to get the controller up and running. The USB connection just works "out of the box".
As an aside: Because my machine is a Mac and my Model M is a German 1391403 with additional Mac keycaps bought from Unicomp, I use Karabiner Elements to remap some keys (right Option to right Command, swap "non_us_backslash" with "grave_accent_and_tilde" and so on) and to make the function keys serve double duty as media keys.
I would also like to say something about the cost of the controller as it has been the subject of some discussion here. I see it like this: I spent around 40 Euros for the keyboard itself on Ebay (and I think this was a good deal considering the condition of the piece), 35 dollars on Mac keycaps and a new spacebar from Unicomp (including international shipping), about 10 Euros for a 7/32" nut driver and some more Euros for high quality bolts and nuts (for the bolt mod). Of course, I also put in a considerable amount of time to disassemble, clean and bolt mod the keyboard. Without Jörn’s controller, one needs to add another 10 Euros, or so, for a PS/2-USB converter – which, as in my case, might not work. In relation to that, spending some 75 Euros (again: I got it a bit cheaper because no Bluetooth) for a "clean" and rock solid solution was an excellent deal for me. I think many Model M owners (most?) spend a significant amount of time and money to get their keyboards just right. Investing in this very capable controller seems a no brainer to me.
I got the board as a Christmas present for myself. And now I have a properly working Model M with no stupid, unreliable PS/2-USB converter sitting on my desk and no more unplugging/replugging of cables. Yay!
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
hm, that's peculiar, I wonder why the PS/2-USB converter you were using was behaving like that. I hope my controller is not prone to similar glitches. Has anyone experienced random glitches with a run-of-the-mill PS/2-USB adapter?tillheilmann wrote: ↑TL;DR I had used an active PS/2-USB converter beforehand. But time and again, the keyboard would stop working or start generating special characters instead of the regular alphanumerics and I had to unplug the cable and plug it in again to 'reset' the converter. ... And now I have a properly working Model M with no stupid, unreliable PS/2-USB converter sitting on my desk and no more unplugging/replugging of cables. Yay!
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- Location: Bochum
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M 1391403
- Main mouse: Cherry MC 2000
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
The culprit was/is a Renkforce USB-PS/2 converter like this one here: https://www.amazon.de/Renkforce-Tastatu ... 0107XOVA4/.
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
the rumors about the death of this project have been greatly exaggerated... just letting you guys know, this project is alive and well and I'm still making controller boards for anyone interested.
give up a hand for matt3o for recovering the lost threads! Yay!
give up a hand for matt3o for recovering the lost threads! Yay!
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- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M (1988)
- Main mouse: Logitech M-BT58
- Favorite switch: n/a
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi Roland, I'm so sorry I just now read this :/. Haven't been on this forum in more than a year, only reason I came back today was because I'm cleaning up my file server and came across those paper printouts, and was wondering if this topic was still alive - happy to see it is . I've attached the files here, they open in LibreOffice Draw.
Typing this from... My Model M with Jörn's original controller in it .
- Attachments
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- IBM Model M Function Keys Template v2.odg
- (211.13 KiB) Downloaded 325 times
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- IBM Model M Function Keys Template.odg
- (223.6 KiB) Downloaded 311 times
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
Just a short update: finally, fellow member arakula has released a Windows binary of the (soon to be cross-platform) GUI he's been working on for quite some time now. If you would like to check it out, I've created a new thread in the Workshop section so that we can start testing and fixing bugs and glitches (if there are any), here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21469
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- Location: Berlin
- Main keyboard: Matias Quiet Mini w/blue ALPS
- Main mouse: Microsoft Intellimouse Optical 1.0
- Favorite switch: complicated ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
hey guys, just letting you know, I've just received another batch of PCBs from the fabhouse, ready to process new orders again.