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Sold/Retracted items:
Spoiler:
Multitech KB097-PC/AT Keyboard
Spoiler:
-- Decent condition. 
The board itself uses Blue Alps switches and Alps Electric doubleshots (none of the bottom row keycaps nor the Nav. keys are doubleshot). Yes, the Home and End keys are in the right places. Yes, the F2 key is a replacement and is way more yellow than the rest of the keycaps. Yes, the F10 keycap is dinged.
The keyboard and keycaps have been roughly cleaned -- no fine cleaning has been done to make it as perfect as it can be, but it's plenty clean enough to hold and touch with confidence... you can eat on this if you want, and you'd be fine.
This keyboard used to have Thai sublegends on the front of the keycaps, but they have deteriorated so much that it's useless. Not all of the legends have disappeared though, and I'd recommend scrubbing them all off. The sublegends did cause the plastic underneath it to not yellow as much as the rest, so there's "ghosts" of the sublegends around.
This keyboard can run both in XT and AT, I believe, and it is currently configured to run in AT protocol (there are 2 jumper pairs in the board that you have to connect to run AT -- I've connected it with a solder bridge for now). All keys are tested and working, but the board can be finnicky at times. The cable is still a tad dirty, as I don't want to clean the coils in case I mess it up.
I'd rate the switches (yeah, that's gonna cause controversy) an 8.5/10 -- they don't bind and can be used totally fine and satisfactory as-is, but there is room for improvement if you clean and relube the switch. The F9 key's switch's bottom housing has been replaced with one from a White Alps switch. All switches work, and if they don't work, a manual push on the switchplate leaf should fix it.
I'm asking for $200 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
The keyboard and keycaps have been roughly cleaned -- no fine cleaning has been done to make it as perfect as it can be, but it's plenty clean enough to hold and touch with confidence... you can eat on this if you want, and you'd be fine.
This keyboard used to have Thai sublegends on the front of the keycaps, but they have deteriorated so much that it's useless. Not all of the legends have disappeared though, and I'd recommend scrubbing them all off. The sublegends did cause the plastic underneath it to not yellow as much as the rest, so there's "ghosts" of the sublegends around.
This keyboard can run both in XT and AT, I believe, and it is currently configured to run in AT protocol (there are 2 jumper pairs in the board that you have to connect to run AT -- I've connected it with a solder bridge for now). All keys are tested and working, but the board can be finnicky at times. The cable is still a tad dirty, as I don't want to clean the coils in case I mess it up.
I'd rate the switches (yeah, that's gonna cause controversy) an 8.5/10 -- they don't bind and can be used totally fine and satisfactory as-is, but there is room for improvement if you clean and relube the switch. The F9 key's switch's bottom housing has been replaced with one from a White Alps switch. All switches work, and if they don't work, a manual push on the switchplate leaf should fix it.
I'm asking for $200 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
-- Good condition. 
The board uses Yellow Alps switches and Alps Electric doubleshots. The bottom leftmost key of the keyboard is missing a keycap and it will be difficult to find a replacement. It's a 1.5/2.5u stepped key.
This keyboard has been dusted over and nothing more. It was clean enough when I bought it that I wasn't bothered to have to clean it.
This keyboard also has a Heavy Cream and a Gray switch, which if you were to buy this keyboard will not be getting. I intend to keep them for my little collection. They will be replaced with NOS Yellow Alps switches and will be left unsoldered in case you just want to keep them NOS. Of course, I can solder them too.
I have no idea what protocol this thing runs, but I don't think it's AT or XT. (I suspect it'd have a protocol like the DEC LK201 keyboard.) The cable of this keyboard also has been cut.
I'd rate these switches a 7.5/10. You'd be okay using these switches as-is, but they do bind slightly on the taller keys. They also don't sound super smooth. I'd recommend giving these switches a cleaning and a lubing.
The keyboard is untested for obvious reasons.
I'm asking for $60 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
This keyboard has been dusted over and nothing more. It was clean enough when I bought it that I wasn't bothered to have to clean it.
This keyboard also has a Heavy Cream and a Gray switch, which if you were to buy this keyboard will not be getting. I intend to keep them for my little collection. They will be replaced with NOS Yellow Alps switches and will be left unsoldered in case you just want to keep them NOS. Of course, I can solder them too.
I have no idea what protocol this thing runs, but I don't think it's AT or XT. (I suspect it'd have a protocol like the DEC LK201 keyboard.) The cable of this keyboard also has been cut.
I'd rate these switches a 7.5/10. You'd be okay using these switches as-is, but they do bind slightly on the taller keys. They also don't sound super smooth. I'd recommend giving these switches a cleaning and a lubing.
The keyboard is untested for obvious reasons.
I'm asking for $60 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
-- Good Condition. NCR branded. 
The board uses Vintage Black switches and OG Cherry doubleshots.
The keyboard and keycaps have been cleaned somewhat thoroughly. I wasn't able to remove the marks on the case, though. The switches have remained untouched.
This keyboard has date code in it, stating that it was manufactured in October, 1985 -- plenty into the West German Vintage Black territory, if you're into that sort of thing. There's a dummy switch on the Big Ass Enter key -- without a spring and I'm guessing without the contact leaves also. I could be wrong about the latter though. Of course, the spacebar uses an MX Gray switch, same dates and conditions as the rest of the pack.
This keyboard runs in both AT and XT protocol... well, should. This keyboard doesn't work at all. I have no idea what's wrong with it either, but I think one of the chips are dead.
I'd rate these switches a 8/10 with similar reasons as the Intecolor AGS, though the switches don't really bind -- Cherry MX as a whole is pretty good in the not-binding department. They don't sound super smooth like you may dream vintage blacks to be, but a lubing should do the trick. They're plenty fine and usable, but a lubing is recommended.
I'm asking for $200 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
The keyboard and keycaps have been cleaned somewhat thoroughly. I wasn't able to remove the marks on the case, though. The switches have remained untouched.
This keyboard has date code in it, stating that it was manufactured in October, 1985 -- plenty into the West German Vintage Black territory, if you're into that sort of thing. There's a dummy switch on the Big Ass Enter key -- without a spring and I'm guessing without the contact leaves also. I could be wrong about the latter though. Of course, the spacebar uses an MX Gray switch, same dates and conditions as the rest of the pack.
This keyboard runs in both AT and XT protocol... well, should. This keyboard doesn't work at all. I have no idea what's wrong with it either, but I think one of the chips are dead.
I'd rate these switches a 8/10 with similar reasons as the Intecolor AGS, though the switches don't really bind -- Cherry MX as a whole is pretty good in the not-binding department. They don't sound super smooth like you may dream vintage blacks to be, but a lubing should do the trick. They're plenty fine and usable, but a lubing is recommended.
I'm asking for $200 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
-- the White Whale. Pristine condition. 
This keyboard has a French Canadian layout and uses IBM Beamspring switches, but I think everybody knows that already.
The keyboard itself is not converted, but it isn't that hard to do so -- get an xwhatsit and just change the card connector in the back.
This keyboard has been cleaned but not restored -- because there was no real need to. The only thing this needs is a new foam -- and the old one isn't disintegrated either, just compressed.
The spacebar's horrendous rattle in these keyboards have also been remedied.
The "FIN" key is slightly yellowed and the "MSG" key's front legend is slightly damaged. There is also a hairline crack on the "6" key, but it isn't noticeable at all in normal use/observation. There's scratches along the back of the top row keys from hitting the case, as the foam no longer holds the switches firm.
Asking $1100 Shipped CONUS.
Spoiler:
The keyboard itself is not converted, but it isn't that hard to do so -- get an xwhatsit and just change the card connector in the back.
This keyboard has been cleaned but not restored -- because there was no real need to. The only thing this needs is a new foam -- and the old one isn't disintegrated either, just compressed.
The spacebar's horrendous rattle in these keyboards have also been remedied.
The "FIN" key is slightly yellowed and the "MSG" key's front legend is slightly damaged. There is also a hairline crack on the "6" key, but it isn't noticeable at all in normal use/observation. There's scratches along the back of the top row keys from hitting the case, as the foam no longer holds the switches firm.
Asking $1100 Shipped CONUS.
Spoiler:
-- Horrible condition. 
The controller uses Alps common mount low profile switches (Alps SKFM), the majority of which has LEDs in it.
I'm planning to just sell the keycaps off of this controller, since they are somehow intact and totally fine. The rest is toast.
The keycaps have been cleaned and there are no major defects. The board as a whole has also been cleaned, but it's pretty futile as you can see.
The keycaps are uniform R3 OEM profile.
The "controller" part of this... "thing" is missing. It was probably looted by the previous owner for whatever reason. Gold, perhaps.
Again, I'm going to sell just the keycaps on this controller, and I think you can see as to why. If you still want the whole controller, though, I can also sell the whole thing -- just pay the extra shipping.
I'm not gonna even bother rating these switches... it's crap. They bind on every keypress and you have to be surgically precise in pressing them to not get them to bind extremely hard. And even if you did press the key properly, you can hear the grinding teeth of demons as you take the trip down that keystroke. It's an experience I won't recommend for the faint of heart.
I'm asking for $50 Shipped CONUS for these keycaps. For the controller as a whole, I'm asking $65.
Spoiler:
I'm planning to just sell the keycaps off of this controller, since they are somehow intact and totally fine. The rest is toast.
The keycaps have been cleaned and there are no major defects. The board as a whole has also been cleaned, but it's pretty futile as you can see.
The keycaps are uniform R3 OEM profile.
The "controller" part of this... "thing" is missing. It was probably looted by the previous owner for whatever reason. Gold, perhaps.
Again, I'm going to sell just the keycaps on this controller, and I think you can see as to why. If you still want the whole controller, though, I can also sell the whole thing -- just pay the extra shipping.
I'm not gonna even bother rating these switches... it's crap. They bind on every keypress and you have to be surgically precise in pressing them to not get them to bind extremely hard. And even if you did press the key properly, you can hear the grinding teeth of demons as you take the trip down that keystroke. It's an experience I won't recommend for the faint of heart.
I'm asking for $50 Shipped CONUS for these keycaps. For the controller as a whole, I'm asking $65.
Spoiler:
-- Good condition. 
German layout, PN: 6111079. Nothing to complain about in this board, really -- aside from the sticker on the side, a glued-up break on the bottom edge piece thing on the back, as well as the little crack on the top case. See pictures for more detail.
This board is disappointing -- to me anyway. I have no use for anything that this board gives me in terms of pros, and its cons are from a bit annoying to unbearable. So, alas, it's on the chopping block.
The keyboard itself is totally untested, so I'm not sure if this works. Judging by its condition, though -- it probably does. I can't confirm anything, though. The foam inside the board is the non-sticky type and doesn't seem to need replacement. The plate does have some rust and marks on it, but it's still bearable, I think. The cable has not been recoiled, as it seems to be sufficiently good already. Overall, I think this is a good preservation board. The only thing that I have done to this keyboard is to glue the broken/cracked parts back up and clean the keyboard a bit.
I'm asking for $500 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard, or $475 + international shipping / local pickup.
Spoiler:
This board is disappointing -- to me anyway. I have no use for anything that this board gives me in terms of pros, and its cons are from a bit annoying to unbearable. So, alas, it's on the chopping block.
The keyboard itself is totally untested, so I'm not sure if this works. Judging by its condition, though -- it probably does. I can't confirm anything, though. The foam inside the board is the non-sticky type and doesn't seem to need replacement. The plate does have some rust and marks on it, but it's still bearable, I think. The cable has not been recoiled, as it seems to be sufficiently good already. Overall, I think this is a good preservation board. The only thing that I have done to this keyboard is to glue the broken/cracked parts back up and clean the keyboard a bit.
I'm asking for $500 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard, or $475 + international shipping / local pickup.
Spoiler:
-- Meh condition. 
Numpadless Italian Data Entry layout, with the neat blue numpad legends on the main cluster. The keyboard case (but not the cover, it seems) had been repainted by the previous owner. Please see the picture to examine it, as there are some issues with it. The front legends in some of the keycaps are also damaged. The keycaps are also quite shined on the top and scuffed on the sides.
The plate of the keyboard is a bit rusty, but it seems superficial and doesn't seem to affect the structural integrity of the board itself. The foam inside is completely disintegrated. The metal pole things (the part that attaches to the keycaps) and the springs of the
switches are also a tad bit rusty. All of this should be quite repairable with some Evaporust. None of the springs have deteriorated and all of the switches still works mechanically. The original solenoid is also there, but who knows if it works or not.
Overall, this thing needs a full restoration. Foam has to be replaced, plate and switches have to be cleaned and de-rust. The paint should be stripped and the case repainted. A conversion would also be nice.
I'm asking for $1850 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
Spoiler:
The plate of the keyboard is a bit rusty, but it seems superficial and doesn't seem to affect the structural integrity of the board itself. The foam inside is completely disintegrated. The metal pole things (the part that attaches to the keycaps) and the springs of the
switches are also a tad bit rusty. All of this should be quite repairable with some Evaporust. None of the springs have deteriorated and all of the switches still works mechanically. The original solenoid is also there, but who knows if it works or not.
Overall, this thing needs a full restoration. Foam has to be replaced, plate and switches have to be cleaned and de-rust. The paint should be stripped and the case repainted. A conversion would also be nice.
I'm asking for $1850 Shipped CONUS for this keyboard.
