![Cool 8-)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
I'll start with my APL 3278. It's using the Rev. 4 beamspring controller with Rev. 1 solenoid board:
See here (linked because I don't want to spam this thread with photos of the same keyboard):
Beamsprings are pretty easy, if you get one in good condition. Xwhatsit ships you a PCB with an edge connector installed and you pull out the keyboard's original one, then slot in his version like an old cartridge game! The setup in software is a little hairy, but doesn't require any code. And they are no less than awesome beasts.
I've been asked that a few times before. I don't have a problem with it. If it was uncomfortable, I'd be rushing to paint and replace the cover, but I'm not. I find my totally flat MacBook Pro keyboard much more uncomfortable.
Are Halvar's photos good enough? The keycaps on the side blocks are all the same profile. (which is handy because you can shift them around as you like)
@Halvar, im actually interested in those caps. Cause i got one Beamspring more from cindy and it misses some caps.Halvar wrote: @mr_a500: I got it just two days ago, from the same seller that sold me the 3278 A02 and the other five German beam spring boards that I proxied around Europe in recent weeks (the ones with generally bad shape of the inner metal plate). He contacted me directly saying he had one last board left and that a big part of the paint had come off in addition to the usual inner rot. When I saw the photo I couldn't believe my eyes ...![]()
So I was just really really lucky. (And I have the board itself (3278 full size) left now that needs restoration, painting and converting, as well as a fitting nice German set of non-APL keycaps, if someone's still interested.)
Oh that explains why the caps look different on a keyboard. I guess I need to just find someone with a beam spring keyboard (e.g. HaaTa) and see if I can take some completely side-angle pictures or measure the profile with some calipers or something.