Xerox Custom Build

[ddrfraser1]

Thanks! Yeah, I may get a lot of flak for not going round. It was an aesthetic choice, admittedly a subjective one. I wanted to get the full functionality out of the trackpad. Also, this is not a recreation but a modern tribute. I think the final result will look good

[ddrfraser1]

Btw, I’ve got extra PCBs so let me know if you want to buy one. $8 plus shipping.

[ddrfraser1]

Someone please correct me if I’m doing this wrong. Also, does the orientation of the reset button matter?

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[kelvinhall05]

Someone please correct me if I’m doing this wrong. Also, does the orientation of the reset button matter?

CF447032-F569-4452-9CB4-598B62547C97.jpeg

Nope, orientation doesn't matter. Glad the PCB appears to have turned out well.

[kelvinhall05]

Btw before you solder the pro micro, I highly recommend you remove the resistor going to the TX/RX LED now. Will be easier now than later.

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Doesn't matter which LED, but make sure you are soldering to the lower leg of where the resistor used to be (circled part in the pic) and also note which one you are using as you will have to use it in your firmware.

[ddrfraser1]

Yikes. I've read this a few times but you've still lost me. Are you saying I should desolder and remove those resister's marked in the yellow circles or do I need to reroute something?

I was just planning on soldering up all 24 of those pins to the pro micro. Is that not what I'm supposed to do?

[kelvinhall05]

Yikes. I've read this a few times but you've still lost me. Are you saying I should desolder and remove those resister's marked in the yellow circles or do I need to reroute something?

I was just planning on soldering up all 24 of those pins to the pro micro. Is that not what I'm supposed to do?

Don't have to reroute anything. So there is that one hole on the PCB near the back of the Pro Micro. I believe I told this to you in our conversation (sorry if I didn't) but you are going to have to take a wire and solder one end to that hole and one end to a pad for that resistor on the Pro Micro. No rerouting or anything, but for a matrix above 81 keys, you have to tap into those two resistors (at least, on a Pro Micro).

EDIT: to better answer your question, just remove one of the resistors (doesn't matter which one, again, just make note of it when doing your firmware) and solder the other end of the wire going to that hole on the PCB near the Pro Micro to the lower pad of where the resistor used to be. You are still going to want to solder the 24 pins like normal though.

[ddrfraser1]

Got it. So that hole marked J1. I'm gonna solder a wire from there to the pro micro? Specifically, I'm going to remove that tiny little resider in the B0 circle and solder the wire to that empty spot? Do I solder the wire to the top pad or the bottom pad? ie, positive or negitive?

[kelvinhall05]

Got it. So that hole marked J1. I'm gonna solder a wire from there to the pro micro? Specifically, I'm going to remove that tiny little resider in the B0 circle and solder the wire to that empty spot? Do I solder the wire to the top pad or the bottom pad? ie, positive or negitive?

Solder to the bottom pad. Again, you can use B0 or the other pad, both will work.

Pic of the handwire I did that used one of these pins:

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[ddrfraser1]

Sweet! Thanks man! Is this standard for every build?

[kelvinhall05]

Sweet! Thanks man! Is this standard for every build?

If you want a Pro Micro and over 81 keys, yes

[ddrfraser1]

Gotcha. Here’s what I did.

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[ddrfraser1]

Umm... crap. The pad came loose. Did I just kill my pro micro or can I still use the other pad under the other resistor?

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[kelvinhall05]

You can use the other pad. Only difference between those two pads (rather, the two lower pads of the two different resistors) is that they have different pin "names" or whatever. It will still work, don't worry. If you have any fine wire (magnet wire is what I use, it's perfect) I recommend that.

Good luck...

[ddrfraser1]

Sweet. Thanks

[kralcifer]

@kevinhall05 what software do you use for PCB creation? Why don't people use SMD diodes?

[kelvinhall05]

@kevinhall05 what software do you use for PCB creation? Why don't people use SMD diodes?

I used KiCad. PCB supports both SMD and THT but THT is easier to solder as most people don't have "proper" SMD equipment. Hell, I don't even have a good set of tweezers.

[ddrfraser1]

Retreating to familiar territory for a while while I (with a lot of help from Kevin) figure out the firmware.

Lubing my zealios. Using Krytox 1514 VPF oil.

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Made these things to mount everything and add some rigidity to the long and floppy (...) keyboard.

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Lasergist messed up the cutout, not sure how, so the pinholes for the stepped caps lock didn’t line up properly.

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Nothing a bit of dremeling couldn’t fix.

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[ddrfraser1]

Phew! Everything works! To me, this was the most difficult/worrying part. It's nice to have it out of the way! It's mostly all down hill from here

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[kelvinhall05]

Phew! Everything works! To me, this was the most difficult/worrying part. It's nice to have it out of the way! It's mostly all down hill from here


Capture3.PNG

Phew, glad it works. Good to know that the last six or so PCBs I've made don't have the same common flaw or whatever

[ddrfraser1]

So keeping with the look of the original Xerox, I'm going to put labels along the black bar which correspond to my second layer. In the end it will look something like this.

Although I still have no idea how I am going to print this or do the black bar...

[ddrfraser1]

Prototyping

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I made these things to mount everything. Unfortunately they ended up being too tall and the plate is pressed right up against the case. Bah, I’ll try again another day. I’m tired.

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[keyboardist]

Ummm, have you tried finding long slanted industrial prototype enclosure? I see enclosures with trapeze like side shape (think 1980s 8-bit and 16-bit machines) in online shops. Been wondering for a while why no one uses them for keyboard projects. But no idea if there is any as long as you need.

[ddrfraser1]

Ummm, have you tried finding long slanted industrial prototype enclosure? I see enclosures with trapeze like side shape (think 1980s 8-bit and 16-bit machines) in online shops. Been wondering for a while why no one uses them for keyboard projects. But no idea if there is any as long as you need.

I have not. I've been looking for stuff like that. Link?

[keyboardist]

For example:
https://mt.rsdelivers.com/product/hammo ... -x/1931040



https://www.digitx.it/codice/c-cf45_28g ... od-102097/


Search for alluminium angled/slanted/wedge enclosure. There are plenty such things in different dimensions. But as I said - no idea if they come in size you are looking for and are they in acceptable price range.

Metal one can be pricey . But there are also made from different materials - like different types of plastic from thin cheap to thick ABS. I once even went into that retro 70s style wood plus metal like used forn example vintage Korg synthesizers.

Maybe look for audio hardware enclosures. They are often bigger - like ones for mixing consoles, modular synthesizers or some other stuf like this
https://www.jands.com.au/brands/clear-c ... and-kb-701

[ddrfraser1]

Hmm, I've seen similar stuff to this in the past. The problem with it is it's not quite the dimensions I need or the style that matches my vision. However, you certainly could build some pretty unique/cool looking keyboards out of some of these.

[keyboardist]

Yes, it's more lke 4 octaves long keyboard synthesizer from what I see in the pictures. Like CME UF 5 that has sides in similar shape.

[keyboardist]

Searching for "Synth eurorack case" brings some pretty interesting results.
You can also buy different shaped alluminum profiles and that way attach plates to each other etc.

[EnthusiastDude]

This is such a great project, so unique and still probably pretty usable in the end. I love it!

[ddrfraser1]

I think I need to make a mug like this as well as for my F 122, 107 and model M(s)

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