Caveat: not for a computer keyboard, for a synthesizer keybed, so rubber dome haters need not fear
Also, hello again. It's been a while.
Query: Repairing conductive rubber pads
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nathanscribe
- Location: Yorkshire, UK.
- Main keyboard: Filco tenkeyless w/blues
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Does anybody know how best to repair the conductive rubber spots on the underside of rubber domes? This is the 'rubber dome over PCB tracks' type, no membrane involved. I've seen various claims online about sticking foil to them, rubbing pencils on them, using conductive paint, roughening the surface with an eraser... though the conductive paint option sounds promising, I've also seen some bad reviews of the stuff, so I thought there'd be no better place to ask than here.
Caveat: not for a computer keyboard, for a synthesizer keybed, so rubber dome haters need not fear
Also, hello again. It's been a while.
Caveat: not for a computer keyboard, for a synthesizer keybed, so rubber dome haters need not fear
Also, hello again. It's been a while.
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Parak
- DT Pro Member: -
Never done that myself, but if I had to I'd first try something like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HKRFA8/
+ whatever size hand punch is needed.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HKRFA8/
+ whatever size hand punch is needed.
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Scottex
- Location: Spain, Madrid
- Main keyboard: Realforce 55g TKL
- Main mouse: Logitech G500
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
this looks like a good idea, conductive paint is messyParak wrote: Never done that myself, but if I had to I'd first try something like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HKRFA8/
+ whatever size hand punch is needed.
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chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
I'd be concerned with the tape not adhering well to the dome. It is rubber after all.
Conductive paint would probably work better.
Is the conductive spot worn away so much that it doesn't make contact?
Maybe transplanting a thin sliver of the conductive material from a cheap remote control or something?
Conductive paint would probably work better.
Is the conductive spot worn away so much that it doesn't make contact?
Maybe transplanting a thin sliver of the conductive material from a cheap remote control or something?
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nathanscribe
- Location: Yorkshire, UK.
- Main keyboard: Filco tenkeyless w/blues
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Is that tape actually conductive, though, or metallic with a non-conductive coating?
I've read comments on how the paint wears off relatively quickly, so the jury's out on that at the moment.
As for the rubber itself, pressing down really hard on the key activates the switch, so I'm guessing that what's happening is the extra pressure is deforming the conductive spot to the point where its un-worn edges are making the contact instead of the probably-worn-out lower surface.
At this moment, I'm even considering double-sided tape and some kitchen foil...
I've read comments on how the paint wears off relatively quickly, so the jury's out on that at the moment.
As for the rubber itself, pressing down really hard on the key activates the switch, so I'm guessing that what's happening is the extra pressure is deforming the conductive spot to the point where its un-worn edges are making the contact instead of the probably-worn-out lower surface.
At this moment, I'm even considering double-sided tape and some kitchen foil...