Alps switch pusher - Updated with SI and MX variants

[melka]

While removing the Cream Alps from a rusty Canon AP210X module, I decided than using screwdrivers to push on the little clips to liberate the switches from the plate was just too boring.

After a few tries, I came up with this little tool.

The shell goes over the switch bottom housing and pushes on the little retaining clips, the slider goes in the shell to push on the switch and release it from the plate. This lowers the possibility of breaking the retaining clips, and also is much faster than using screwdrivers to push on them.

You can print one for yourself, the files are here. By the way, this is released with a Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial licence, so be careful, leeches.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5429861/files

[TheInverseKey]

How many broken clips do you normally get with this method?

[melka]

I haven't looked closely at those canon creams, but I don't think I broke a single one. Last keyboard I desoldered was an AEK with oranges, using the screwdriver method about a third of the switches had at least a broken clip.

imho it mostly depends on the plastic fatigue though, the oranges seemed really brittle while those creams are in pretty good shape.

[PancakeMSTR]

Very sick

[TheInverseKey]

I haven't looked closely at those canon creams, but I don't think I broke a single one. Last keyboard I desoldered was an AEK with oranges, using the screwdriver method about a third of the switches had at least a broken clip.

imho it mostly depends on the plastic fatigue though, the oranges seemed really brittle while those creams are in pretty good shape.

Very nice, I'm assuming that the model is in mm?

[melka]

Yes, the external size is 18.5mm wide by 20.5mm long if you need to scale it.

[hellothere]

It could very well just be me doing me things, but I've rarely been able to separate a PCB and mounting plate even after all the switches are desoldered. I use the method of pliers, with jaws wrapped in electrical tape, put the jaws over the entire switch, rock the switch back and forth a few times, then gently pull up. IIRC, this is the method that Alps had in their manuals, although I don't remember if this was for a single switch or for an entire keyboard.

Please review me. As mentioned, I could be doing it wrong.

[melka]

I've rarely been able to separate a PCB and mounting plate even after all the switches are desoldered

Sorry if what I'll say seems basic but you never know. Usually, I work from side to side, desoldering around 5 or 6 columns and then flex the PCB a little bit. Sometimes tiny leftover tin whisker are enough to hold everything in place, so doing it step by step helps in finding them. I just rework the desoldering and try again. Be sure to also desolder the LEDs.

The two more obvious reasons you might not be able to pull it out are bent pins from manufacturing, or the twisted tabs holding the plate and PCB together. It's easy to overlook them.

The pliers method works, used it, but it's time consuming and prone to breaking the tabs on brittle plastics imho.

Again, sorry if what I'm saying is obvious.

[hellothere]

I've only refurbed more than 50 Alps keyboards . So, yes, I do know about bent pins and that they need to be straightened during desoldering.

If you're referring to yellow or green Alps that are being used as Caps Lock, etc., you're probably correct for this application. If you're just referring to three or four lock lights above the numeric keypad (full size keyboard) or above Print Screen, Scroll Lock, Pause (TKL keyboard), I've never seen a keyboard where these interfere with removing the switch mounting plate.

I try not to flex the PCB at all. The most expensive Alps switches that are readily available, SKCM brown, are only $6 a piece. If you break a PCB that originally had brown Alps switches, you probably just broke a PCB from a very rare keyboard that probably cost you $500+.

The "pliers method" (can we make this a thing?) doesn't take me very long to do. It also shows me which switches aren't desoldered good enough.

[melka]

I have slightly modified the files and most importantly, I moved them to printables.com, thingiverse going wonky on me.

https://www.printables.com/model/241359 ... tch-pusher

There's an untested MX version now, and I modified the Alps version to also work with Space Invader switches. The new version works beautifully on SI switches, I no longer have any Alps switches on a plate to test but it should work since the width of the tools are the same.

If you're referring to yellow or green Alps that are being used as Caps Lock, etc., you're probably correct for this application.

Yes, those were the ones I was talking about. Agree with you that lights above numpad pose no pb.

I try not to flex the PCB at all. The most expensive Alps switches that are readily available, SKCM brown, are only $6 a piece. If you break a PCB that originally had brown Alps switches, you probably just broke a PCB from a very rare keyboard that probably cost you $500+.

I don't think that a tiny bit of flex will break a PCB tbh, FR4 is pretty damn tough, but I understand why you wouldn't want to do it.

The "pliers method" (can we make this a thing?) doesn't take me very long to do.

You do you

[snacksthecat]

It could very well just be me doing me things, but I've rarely been able to separate a PCB and mounting plate even after all the switches are desoldered. I use the method of pliers, with jaws wrapped in electrical tape, put the jaws over the entire switch, rock the switch back and forth a few times, then gently pull up. IIRC, this is the method that Alps had in their manuals, although I don't remember if this was for a single switch or for an entire keyboard.

Please review me. As mentioned, I could be doing it wrong.

I’ve had a few come off this gooood…

only a few