Dylon dyeing of PBT caps; more experiments
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
First of all, it seems that Dylon has stopped selling its multi-purpose dye in small quantities which, if true, is very unfortunate. Only the 500 g pots are shown on Dylon's web page under "Industrial products". Hopefully, they come up with another product for synthetic fabric. Anyway, there are still plenty of web shops that sell the original small tins. Furthermore, Jacquard's iDye Poly looks like a viable alternative.
Nevertheless, I have been back in the kitchen for some more experiments on dyeing PBT caps with Dylon. For my first dyeing session have a look here. After the first session, I was especially interested in whether or not the addition of salt is needed for getting the dye into the caps. Therefore I omitted this additive this time. There was also the question if ABS caps could be dyed via this method so a I threw an ABS double shot cap into one of the colour brews.
The general procedure was as follows:
The dye (4.5 g Dylon multi purpose) was dissolved in 1 liter of boiling tap water inside a thoroghly cleaned (scouring cream) stainless steal pan. The dye bath was allowed to cool to 70 °C (thermometer) before the clean key caps were added. The caps were fully immersed in the bath with constant, gentle stirring while the temperature was kept at 70 °C. Afterwards, the caps were rinsed with plenty of warm water.
Results:
Dylon 33 "Kingfisher": 10 min contact time resulted in a light blue. An ABS cap hardly cought any of the dye.
Dylon 26 "Jungle Green": 35 min contact time resulted in a deep green-blue.
Dylon 12 "Rose of Paris": 10 min contact time resulted in a light pink.
Dylon 5 "Havana Brown": 35 min contact time resulted in a deep brown with a greenish hue.
Conclusions:
-The addition of salt is not necessary for dyeing PBT caps.
-A temperature of 70 °C seems to be sufficient.
-ABS plastic cannot be dyed efficiently with this method.
Nevertheless, I have been back in the kitchen for some more experiments on dyeing PBT caps with Dylon. For my first dyeing session have a look here. After the first session, I was especially interested in whether or not the addition of salt is needed for getting the dye into the caps. Therefore I omitted this additive this time. There was also the question if ABS caps could be dyed via this method so a I threw an ABS double shot cap into one of the colour brews.
The general procedure was as follows:
The dye (4.5 g Dylon multi purpose) was dissolved in 1 liter of boiling tap water inside a thoroghly cleaned (scouring cream) stainless steal pan. The dye bath was allowed to cool to 70 °C (thermometer) before the clean key caps were added. The caps were fully immersed in the bath with constant, gentle stirring while the temperature was kept at 70 °C. Afterwards, the caps were rinsed with plenty of warm water.
Results:
Dylon 33 "Kingfisher": 10 min contact time resulted in a light blue. An ABS cap hardly cought any of the dye.
Dylon 26 "Jungle Green": 35 min contact time resulted in a deep green-blue.
Dylon 12 "Rose of Paris": 10 min contact time resulted in a light pink.
Dylon 5 "Havana Brown": 35 min contact time resulted in a deep brown with a greenish hue.
Conclusions:
-The addition of salt is not necessary for dyeing PBT caps.
-A temperature of 70 °C seems to be sufficient.
-ABS plastic cannot be dyed efficiently with this method.
Last edited by Kurk on 27 Mar 2013, 10:54, edited 1 time in total.
- guilleguillaume
- Location: Barcelona, Spain
- Main keyboard: Kmac Mini
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I have some ABS Cherry double-shot keycaps that came with a set I bought at GH and they are Dyed in Red and Yellow. May have to take some pictures for you.
-
- Location: Norway
- Main keyboard: Old rubberdome
- Main mouse: Logitech Performance MX
- DT Pro Member: -
- guilleguillaume
- Location: Barcelona, Spain
- Main keyboard: Kmac Mini
- Main mouse: Razer Abyssus 2014
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
No need to take pictures at all
This is the set I got from Danielucf:
This is the set I got from Danielucf:
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
Yes, seems like ABS can be dyed. But fact is that it takes up the dye much more slowly than PBT. Looking at the caps in your pictures I would say that the colour is unevenly distributed, especially in the case of the purple and yellow caps.
-
- DT Pro Member: -
There is an online shop who sells all Dylon multi-purpose dye colors world wide: PATIN-A costume suppliesFirst of all, it seems that Dylon has stopped selling its multi-purpose dye in small quantities which, if true, is very unfortunate. Only the 500 g pots are shown on Dylon's web page under "Industrial products". Hopefully, they come up with another product for synthetic fabric.
http://www.patin-a.de/pi/en/Dylon-Multi ... ml#Ziel382
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
Congrats on your IBM caps, they are looking good. It seems that the space bar has a slightly different colour tone, is that the case?
- Kurk
- Location: Sauce Hollondaise (=The Netherlands)
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage // Filco MJ2 + HID liberation
- Main mouse: ITAC Mousetrak Professional
- DT Pro Member: 0027
I've tried Dylon on a set of thick IMSTO dye sub caps. Not such a great idea as it turned out...
I followed the recipe of post #1, one tin (4.5 g) of Dylon No 26 Jungle Green in 1 L water at 70 °C. Initially, I was going for 5 min contact time but right away it became apparent that the caps didn't take up the dye evenly. I let them simmer for some additional time hoping that the color would even out. But, alas, the shade difference persisted. See here the result after 12 min.
It's not dramatic but the color difference is very notable even under bad lighting conditions. The areas of the legends display a lighter shade of blue than the rest of the caps. You can spot it on the tops of the 1U keys and especially well on keys that are much larger than their legends, i.e. shift and enter. My guess is that the dye subbing process changes the structure of the plastic or its surface, probably due to some heat treatment.
My only previous experience with dyeing dye-subbed keys were with IBM model M 1U caps. I didn't notice any shade differences there.
BTW, the enter key is a special case. Not only does it have a shade difference but also some some specks that look like plastic defects. Such imperfections are normally found around the sprue marks.
I followed the recipe of post #1, one tin (4.5 g) of Dylon No 26 Jungle Green in 1 L water at 70 °C. Initially, I was going for 5 min contact time but right away it became apparent that the caps didn't take up the dye evenly. I let them simmer for some additional time hoping that the color would even out. But, alas, the shade difference persisted. See here the result after 12 min.
It's not dramatic but the color difference is very notable even under bad lighting conditions. The areas of the legends display a lighter shade of blue than the rest of the caps. You can spot it on the tops of the 1U keys and especially well on keys that are much larger than their legends, i.e. shift and enter. My guess is that the dye subbing process changes the structure of the plastic or its surface, probably due to some heat treatment.
My only previous experience with dyeing dye-subbed keys were with IBM model M 1U caps. I didn't notice any shade differences there.
BTW, the enter key is a special case. Not only does it have a shade difference but also some some specks that look like plastic defects. Such imperfections are normally found around the sprue marks.
- Attachments
-
- dylon-on-IMSTO-small-01.jpg (149.96 KiB) Viewed 16541 times
- cookie
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: MX Master
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey there, thanks a ton for this workshop! It helped me a lot but I have a question. After testing my desired color on some Cherry caps I decided to dye the caps of my HHKB Pro1 and it turned out okay but unfortunately some caps soak up the dye unevenly... So is there a method to get the Dye out of the caps? I'd like to redye them once again but I am afraight that the caps will turn out to dark if I throw them in again
- RaleghDirat
- Prisoner of Technology
- Location: Europe, Portugal
- Main keyboard: IBM SSK
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I've used dylon on ibm keycaps recently, if you want to check how it came up: http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t7818.html
No experience with HHKB keys, but my guess is you can't remove the dye, and only can go to darker shades not lighter.
No experience with HHKB keys, but my guess is you can't remove the dye, and only can go to darker shades not lighter.
- cookie
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: MX Master
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Man your results are verry nice!
I am afraight that this will be the case... that I only can go darker If nothing helps my last resort is to dye them black for a couple of hours. but the Color I currenly have is quite nice! I need to add a few pictures tho.
If I let the caps in the dye for a long time is there a certain point where the cap will not turn darker? I mean when you dye it for example in a red for couple hours, it can't be that it turn out dark brown or something?
Thanks for your answer!
I am afraight that this will be the case... that I only can go darker If nothing helps my last resort is to dye them black for a couple of hours. but the Color I currenly have is quite nice! I need to add a few pictures tho.
If I let the caps in the dye for a long time is there a certain point where the cap will not turn darker? I mean when you dye it for example in a red for couple hours, it can't be that it turn out dark brown or something?
Thanks for your answer!
- RaleghDirat
- Prisoner of Technology
- Location: Europe, Portugal
- Main keyboard: IBM SSK
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I've only used emerald and did boil the caps as per dealer instructions about 10 minutes.
My first approach was based in this thread info and tried to keep the temperature around 70 ºC. It was taking too long and the color was not very defined, so I decided to let boil with constant stirring (watching for cap deformation regularly).
If you start with white caps there will be a point in time the dye will saturate the pbt surface and hopefully "almost" match the dye "specified" color. Anyway, I'm no chemist and this is my idea of how it should behave.
My first approach was based in this thread info and tried to keep the temperature around 70 ºC. It was taking too long and the color was not very defined, so I decided to let boil with constant stirring (watching for cap deformation regularly).
If you start with white caps there will be a point in time the dye will saturate the pbt surface and hopefully "almost" match the dye "specified" color. Anyway, I'm no chemist and this is my idea of how it should behave.
- cookie
- Location: Hamburg, Germany
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: MX Master
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
The next thing I will try ist to clear the caps propperly, sand them a bit, and try to sandblast the top of the caps. They have a little bit of shine but they are almost 10 years in heavy use so it's okay.
Then I will throw them back in, maybe with a higher temperature and hope that the color will soak up evenly.
Then I will throw them back in, maybe with a higher temperature and hope that the color will soak up evenly.
- justcallmecrash
- Location: Greensboro, NC, USA
- Main keyboard: ErgoDox 80g Blacks (home); Ergodox Browns (work)
- Main mouse: Logitech M570/Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX 80g Black (NovelKeys pale blues, too)
- DT Pro Member: -
One of the things I've found most helpful on keys that have seen some use is giving them a 90% alcohol bath, then rinsing them before trying to dye.
Nice results, by the way.
Nice results, by the way.
- RaleghDirat
- Prisoner of Technology
- Location: Europe, Portugal
- Main keyboard: IBM SSK
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
A few days work to get to this...
My take of the handarbeit (it is a DE set but I "adapted" the blue for PO, hence 2 more blue caps):
This was done with dylon:
02 - golden glow
25 - emerald
33 - kingfisher
09 - pagoda red
34 - olive green
15 - windsor purple
39 - tangerine
12 - rose of paris
The purple is very dark, will have to try with 18 - Madonna Blue, if I can find it...
My take of the handarbeit (it is a DE set but I "adapted" the blue for PO, hence 2 more blue caps):
This was done with dylon:
02 - golden glow
25 - emerald
33 - kingfisher
09 - pagoda red
34 - olive green
15 - windsor purple
39 - tangerine
12 - rose of paris
The purple is very dark, will have to try with 18 - Madonna Blue, if I can find it...
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I know I am necro-ing this thread, but I am curious how the durability of these dyes has held up. It's been a couple of years, which would be sufficient burn-in I would think... assuming you are using these boards still and they haven't become storage queens. Any fading from sunlight, wear from use, etc...
Why I am interested (and the posts preceding): workshop-f7/remodeling-the-model-m-t13796.html#p330465
Why I am interested (and the posts preceding): workshop-f7/remodeling-the-model-m-t13796.html#p330465
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I keep going back to post #14 in this thread:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35 ... #msg664178
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35 ... #msg664178
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I agree... especially with what we are doing now for marking. The one sample I have in my hand really looks impressive. I am just curious how this stuff wears. At best it is a thin layer (but so is the PBT dye-sub of the fonts if that says anything). I know the preliminary results look great. I just want to know how they look 2 years later after some UV and use.fohat wrote: ↑I keep going back to post #14 in this thread:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35 ... #msg664178
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
That thread was from 2012 and I am still using caps that I had dyed back in those days and they appear to show no wear or fade (although if they faded consistently I wouldn't know, right?).lot_lizard wrote: ↑
I am just curious how this stuff wears.
I just want to know how they look 2 years later after some UV and use.
I was using old-formula RIT powdered dye, which apparently changed somewhere around 2010-2011 (for the worse) but I do have some green ones that I did with iPoly.
- lot_lizard
- Location: Minnesota
- Main keyboard: Indy SSK Model MF
- Main mouse: Logitech Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Good to know... thanks for the feedback. We will proceed in the other thread = tally-ho!!!fohat wrote: ↑That thread was from 2012 and I am still using caps that I had dyed back in those days and they appear to show no wear or fade (although if they faded consistently I wouldn't know, right?)