It's stainless steel, no way to cut it yourself I had it cut from a service here in Italy.Daniel wrote:Did you cut out parts of the case yourself, or did someone laser it for you?
Daniel wrote:Thumbs up for that 3,5" floppy disk
It's stainless steel, no way to cut it yourself I had it cut from a service here in Italy.Daniel wrote:Did you cut out parts of the case yourself, or did someone laser it for you?
Daniel wrote:Thumbs up for that 3,5" floppy disk
Same here, actually. The exposed switches also add to the no nonsense style of The Steely. It's a bare minimalism thing.matt3o wrote:I must say that I like the look the screws give...
I'm not aware of any without a socket, but Soarer did find a controller with a D+ and D- pinout in his Teensy 2 alternatives threadmatt3o wrote:Hard to say, depends on the number of participants I'd say. Probably we could cut the cost of the plate a bit and of the components. The real discount would be on the PCB if we want one.Muirium wrote:PCB takes away the fun. How sensible, do you think, it would be to make this into a kit for interested DIYers where the main thing we would have to do is look up all those time consuming wires?
It would be great to be able to find a controller with a micro-usb (smaller) or even without an USB and just D+ D-, but I couldn't find one.
I've seen that but it has a mini USB anyway (so it's not actually shorter than a teensy). We would need to desolder the usb port, which is not easy.JBert wrote: I'm not aware of any without a socket, but Soarer did find a controller with a D+ and D- pinout in his Teensy 2 alternatives thread
it's a local service, I can proxy if you need. they can do steel and some other materials (ceramics mostly), I don't know if they have aluminum, I have to ask.photekq wrote:Beautiful build Matt3o. If you dont' mind me asking where did you get the steel cut? 60 euros is cheap as hell, and I think I might do a similar case for my GH60 build. If I could get it done for 60 euros aswell then that would be amazing.
That's very kind of you and I may take you up on that offer. Of course nothing's set in stone but if I do end up making myself a GH60 case it'll most likely be layered, laser cut sheets to make sure it's cheap.matt3o wrote:it's a local service, I can proxy if you need. they can do steel and some other materials (ceramics mostly), I don't know if they have aluminum, I have to ask.photekq wrote:Beautiful build Matt3o. If you dont' mind me asking where did you get the steel cut? 60 euros is cheap as hell, and I think I might do a similar case for my GH60 build. If I could get it done for 60 euros aswell then that would be amazing.
It's going to be interesting to see how that works out for you. I decided to not try that when I made the MeC64. It not hard to make a one layer PCB at home but I could not figure out a way to do all precision drilling needed for a keyboard.matt3o wrote:I believe that an home made custom PCB would be a nice experiment anyway
no problem. I need the CAD files and I can ask them for a quote.photekq wrote: That's very kind of you and I may take you up on that offer. Of course nothing's set in stone but if I do end up making myself a GH60 case it'll most likely be layered, laser cut sheets to make sure it's cheap.
yes, definitely not easy, but doable I think. You probably need something like this to make the holes.tlt wrote:It's going to be interesting to see how that works out for you. I decided to not try that when I made the MeC64. It not hard to make a one layer PCB at home but I could not figure out a way to do all precision drilling needed for a keyboard.
Unless you're making huge quantities, no. Typical 1N4148 etc are what, half a penny each if you grab a couple of hundred?matt3o wrote:I'd also like to try SMD diodes, don't know if they are cheaper.
what was the thickness of all 4 layers you did as im trying to do a pure stainless steel case like this but with a custom key layout also how much did the case cost u in canada my laser place wants to charge 200 for the 4 cut outs and they only deal in stainless steel so i cant even try aluminium or plexi like u suggested for plate or walls. also what mm screws did u use.matt3o wrote: ↑10mm from plate bottom top base top. REAL space for wires and components is 6.5mm, with a PCB would be 4.9mm which means it wouldn't fit a teensy.bearcat wrote: Btw, when you say you have 10mm of clearance, where are you measuring from? I have about 8mm and i'm finding it *very* challenging to squeeze everything in...
With a PCB we need at least 6mm, so the whole case height should be approx 15mm (with 12mm inside the case). The best of course would be to have an angled case but don't think that would be possible with laser cut layers.
Without PCB:With PCBCode: Select all
_ __|_|__ / \ +-------------------+ | | 1.5mm Plate +-------------------+ | | | | | \_______/ | 3.5mm Switch bottom w/o pins | | | | | | | | | | | | 6.5mm Clearance +-------------------+
A teensy is a little over 5mm (if you remove headers standoff), so I'd say the minimum clearance would be 7mm (which translates into a case 15mm tall).Code: Select all
_ __|_|__ / \ +-------------------+ | | 1.5mm Plate +-------------------+ | | | | | \_______/ | 3.5mm Switch bottom w/o pins |-----|---|---------| |-----|---|---------| 1.6mm PCB | | | | 4.9mm Clearance +-------------------+