I'll be interested to see where all the stabs lie, for obvious reasons!matt3o wrote:I'd say that if you are not planning on having an arrow cluster you probably should go for a 15u layout. I'll post it tomorrow.
Building a custom keyboard from the ground up
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
-
- Location: Vermont, USA
- Main keyboard: Macbook Pro Keyboard
- Main mouse: Apple Trackpad
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Here is my stab at a compact layout:
I really like having dedicated function keys, so they are included. I don't like the designs with six rows put all together, so I decided to have the function row offset a little. I like having lots of modifiers, so I went with a small spacebar and 1u modifiers.
Lock keys are intended to be latching switches with LED's, Num Lock is included because I prefer to have symbols be the default on the number row, there will be a numeric keypad as a companion to this board anyway. Arrow Lock is for making the Home/End/Page Up/Page Dn be the arrow keys.
I want to have a dedicated Tab Back key, and I think it is more natural to have that be on the left side and Tab over on the right, however the one the one thing I don't like about it is that they are not the same size in my design. But I really think it's important to have a full sized Return.
Thoughts?
I really like having dedicated function keys, so they are included. I don't like the designs with six rows put all together, so I decided to have the function row offset a little. I like having lots of modifiers, so I went with a small spacebar and 1u modifiers.
Lock keys are intended to be latching switches with LED's, Num Lock is included because I prefer to have symbols be the default on the number row, there will be a numeric keypad as a companion to this board anyway. Arrow Lock is for making the Home/End/Page Up/Page Dn be the arrow keys.
I want to have a dedicated Tab Back key, and I think it is more natural to have that be on the left side and Tab over on the right, however the one the one thing I don't like about it is that they are not the same size in my design. But I really think it's important to have a full sized Return.
Thoughts?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I've got to say I like the look of that layout! It never occurred to me to keep a function row on a sub-TKL. And the placement of lock keys in the corners is quite smart.
Untab would drive me crazy, and I think I'd get lost amongst all those 1u modifiers on row 1. But having fiddled around with several designs of my own now, I recognise that the bottom row is the toughest on the keyboard.
If only ISO enter didn't bug me. You've fit it in quite snugly.
Untab would drive me crazy, and I think I'd get lost amongst all those 1u modifiers on row 1. But having fiddled around with several designs of my own now, I recognise that the bottom row is the toughest on the keyboard.
If only ISO enter didn't bug me. You've fit it in quite snugly.
- tlt
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Topre Realforce 105UFW
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Interesting layout. Keeping the function keys in combination with adding a vertical row gives the keyboard nice proportions. I also like the idea of having more keys at the bottom row but I would add things like enter shift and backspace for the thumbs
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
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that's the good part of a custom keyboard... you can do whatever you want... if you can find the keycaps at least
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
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- Favorite switch: Anything, really
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This is the beta layout for the brownfox in DWG format.
http://lab.cubiq.org/kb/brownfox-beta1.dwg
This afternoon I'm going to the hardware store to check the size of the screw heads. The two screw holes in the middle of the plate are very close to the switches and I probably have to move them somewhere else. Actually I don't know if they are really needed. The 1.5mm steel sheet is really stiff and it doesn't need any support, but maybe aluminum needs the standoff in the middle if you don't have a PCB.
Everything else should be fine. Tomorrow I'll probably start production of the prototype (crossing fingers)
http://lab.cubiq.org/kb/brownfox-beta1.dwg
This afternoon I'm going to the hardware store to check the size of the screw heads. The two screw holes in the middle of the plate are very close to the switches and I probably have to move them somewhere else. Actually I don't know if they are really needed. The 1.5mm steel sheet is really stiff and it doesn't need any support, but maybe aluminum needs the standoff in the middle if you don't have a PCB.
Everything else should be fine. Tomorrow I'll probably start production of the prototype (crossing fingers)
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Are backlight LEDs something you have to consider when making the plate?
I'm considering a few on my keyboard now to indicate the layers. Do they need extra affordance on the holes, or do they snuggle in with Cherry MX switches?
Of course, they need controlled too.
I'm considering a few on my keyboard now to indicate the layers. Do they need extra affordance on the holes, or do they snuggle in with Cherry MX switches?
Of course, they need controlled too.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
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Quore request for the brownfox sent... waiting for reply...
update: wow, ALU won't be cheap. It's 50% more expensive than steel... I'm trying to see if there's anything I can do to reduce the cost
update: wow, ALU won't be cheap. It's 50% more expensive than steel... I'm trying to see if there's anything I can do to reduce the cost
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
okay here's the catch.
Aluminim sheets are 3000x1500. My layout uses 2 thicknesses (1.5 and 3), so I'm buying 2 full sheets of aluminum and actually using just a small portion of them.
The only way to save on laser cut is to fill the whole sheet.
The cost of just 1 alu case is €100 (shipped)
Aluminim sheets are 3000x1500. My layout uses 2 thicknesses (1.5 and 3), so I'm buying 2 full sheets of aluminum and actually using just a small portion of them.
The only way to save on laser cut is to fill the whole sheet.
The cost of just 1 alu case is €100 (shipped)
Last edited by matt3o on 05 Jun 2013, 16:22, edited 1 time in total.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Makes sense. How small a portion are you using, and how many keyboards would you theoretically need to make to use the whole sheet?
I'm just as cool with steel, if that's the way to go.
I'm just as cool with steel, if that's the way to go.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
I'd say I can fit approx 5 keyboards in 2 sheets (1x1.5, 1x3). The alternative would be to use just 1.5mm sheets and print more layers. That would be definitely cheaper.Muirium wrote:Makes sense. How small a portion are you using, and how many keyboards would you theoretically need to make to use the whole sheet?
I'm just as cool with steel, if that's the way to go.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
More layers sounds like a good option to consider. Any obvious pitfalls come to mind? And would it be competitive with steel?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
no drawbacks I could think of. Aesthetics maybe.Muirium wrote:More layers sounds like a good option to consider. Any obvious pitfalls come to mind? And would it be competitive with steel?
yes, that's an option.pasph wrote:gb?
Muirium (and everyone), if you want to add your design just let me know (actually let me have your CAD file)
- Paranoid
- Location: Belgium
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch
- Main mouse: Razer Lachesis
- Favorite switch: Brown MX / Blue ALPS
- DT Pro Member: -
Interesting. What's the time frame on this? I'm going to try out lasercutting a custom case in MDF on Friday. If it works out I might be interested in some lasercut alu/steel parts since I can't do that there.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
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I'm having one batch this week, the second batch in 2 weeks or so.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
A group buy is definitely in order. You're the one who's got the CAD skills and the experience of a good build already, so I'll gladly use your design! I suggest letting us sign up for several repetitions of that. We can customise plenty of things beyond the metal for ourselves. Layout and layers for me.matt3o wrote:yes, that's an option.pasph wrote:gb?
Muirium (and everyone), if you want to add your design just let me know (actually let me have your CAD file)
I'm in for an open (Steely style) 15u wide 60% in all metal layers. Aluminium certainly does the trick.
Tell me if my layout is a problem at all. Row 1 can be redone entirely if stabs or likely caps are an issue. It's my first time at this, and I expect hiccups.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
here's the plan.
I requested a new quote for the case all in one layer of 1.5mm. I'll probably get it tomorrow.
If it is noticeably cheaper than the 1.5+3mm version I'll have the prototype laser cut. If the size of the case and position of the keys/stabs are right we can use my design as a base for other keyboards. I'll be more than happy to build the DWG for you (but remember that each new design involves some risk).
I requested a new quote for the case all in one layer of 1.5mm. I'll probably get it tomorrow.
If it is noticeably cheaper than the 1.5+3mm version I'll have the prototype laser cut. If the size of the case and position of the keys/stabs are right we can use my design as a base for other keyboards. I'll be more than happy to build the DWG for you (but remember that each new design involves some risk).
well, this would be just for the the case, no PCB.pasph wrote:This will be without a pcb?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Yes, that's what we're up to. It's been a long thread! From the original post:pasph wrote:This will be without a pcb?
The end result is something like this:Hand wiring
A PCB has its own benefits: soldering is a snap, you don't have to worry about shorts, and the overall height of the case can be contained.
Cons of a PCB is that you have to design it of course, the prototyping phase is long and expensive. You also need a good electronics know-how (which I don't have). Production of small quantities of 300x100mm PCB is quite costly. But most notably if something goes wrong during the assembly and you need to replace one single switch, you have to desolder the whole PCB! And believe me... something is going to go wrong!
The only drawback of wires is that you have to take extra care during the soldering phase to avoid shorts (and of course the inside of your case will look less pro).
Doesn't look bad at all, in my opinion. For insides.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
Already got the quote for the 1.5mm version and it's not cheaper for such small quantities (you use less aluminum but you increase the number of cuts). I'm going back to 1.5+3mm. I'll probably have to invest approx €90... we definitely need a GB for this. The good news is that the design of the plate doesn't impact on pricing (ie: we can have 100 keyboards all with a different layout)
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Now that is interesting. If it's a fixed price, you could cut two different plates for me, like you suggested earlier, so I've got a safe fallback if my layout proves awkward in practice. Might as well put the sheet to good use.matt3o wrote:Already got the quote for the 1.5mm version and it's not cheaper for such small quantities. I'm going back to 1.5+3mm. I'll probably have to invest approx €90... we definitely need a GB for this. The good news is that the design of the plate doesn't impact on pricing (ie: we can have 100 keyboards all with a different layout)
Do they let you reuse the same sheets, both visits? If not, you might just want to go ahead and do mine in the first batch. I'm happy with Steely's open case.
Is the USB jack / cable centre aligned at the back on your aluminium case design?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
yes the USB is in the center, but that's because mine is a 16u layout. With 15u it's slightly shifted to the right or to the left.Muirium wrote:Now that is interesting. If it's a fixed price, you could cut two different plates for me, like you suggested earlier, so I've got a safe fallback if my layout proves awkward in practice. Might as well put the sheet to good use.
Do they let you reuse the same sheets, both visits? If not, you might just want to go ahead and do mine in the first batch. I'm happy with Steely's open case.
Is the USB jack / cable centre aligned at the back on your aluminium case design?
This is a different layout compared to the Steely so I'd need to test it before I can go "production". If you want to risk with me I'd be glad to add you to the first batch.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Interesting. What does the number of keys have to do with the position of the centreline? Are you threading something between switches? If I have to go off-centre, is it easy to be close to a corner, like on the Poker, instead?
I'll join if you're already committed to the aluminium sheet. It's not a rush as I'm waiting on DSA retro spares anyway. In fact, will you be more likely to know what row 1 caps I can choose from in a week?
In any case, it's only my plate which is affected by available caps.
I'll join if you're already committed to the aluminium sheet. It's not a rush as I'm waiting on DSA retro spares anyway. In fact, will you be more likely to know what row 1 caps I can choose from in a week?
In any case, it's only my plate which is affected by available caps.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
The hole should be between two switches. It's easier to handle that way. It's not strictly required with my new layout but it's safer nonetheless. So in a 16u you can place it between the 8th and the 9th switches (which is the center of the keyboard). On a 15u you place it between the 7th and 8th switches (which is not the center). The hole can be placed wherever you want. Just one note. In your design there's no place for the teensy, unless you make a very tall case (you don't have a long spacebar that gives you enough clearance for the controller).Muirium wrote:Interesting. What does the number of keys have to do with the position of the centreline? Are you threading something between switches? If I have to go off-centre, is it easy to be close to a corner, like on the Poker, instead?
I don't really know, sorry. We are still using the leftovers to cover the sorting/production errors.Muirium wrote:I'll join if you're already committed to the aluminium sheet. It's not a rush as I'm waiting on DSA retro spares anyway. In fact, will you be more likely to know what row 1 caps I can choose from in a week?
UPDATE: we will have a blank PBT DSA GB very soon, but only standard layout, no extra mods (maybe just tsangan).
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Blank PBT DSA: now that's three things I like. I could definitely redesign for that. Could you give me a list of all the keys, by any chance? I'm going to get creative.
Quite right about the space bar, I forgot you put the Teensy there. What's the suggested width?
Quite right about the space bar, I forgot you put the Teensy there. What's the suggested width?