HyperMicro madness
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
Okay let's start the HyperMicro madness.
Today I received the first prototype from 7bit, in about 2 hours the keyboard was ready, the firmware programmed and the teensy flashed.
Here you go:
I wish I could say I'm writing on it right now... problem is... the keyboard doesn't work I'll check it tomorrow and keep you updated. At this stage I don't know if it is an issue with my code or with 7bit hardware, but surely it looks sexy
Today I received the first prototype from 7bit, in about 2 hours the keyboard was ready, the firmware programmed and the teensy flashed.
Here you go:
I wish I could say I'm writing on it right now... problem is... the keyboard doesn't work I'll check it tomorrow and keep you updated. At this stage I don't know if it is an issue with my code or with 7bit hardware, but surely it looks sexy
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
At the backside, I can see some terrible thing!
The gold stuff is all connected to GND and most solderpads are shortened against it with the solder.
The gaps are too close.
The gold stuff is all connected to GND and most solderpads are shortened against it with the solder.
The gaps are too close.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
do you need a better picture?
actually... haven't you noticed the same on your samples?!
actually... haven't you noticed the same on your samples?!
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Yes, please full resolution of the backside!
In theory, if you are very careful, you should be able to solder such that nothing shortens.
Please keep your soldering iron hot, while waiting for the HyperMicro Version 0.1 ...
edit:
I've found out how to make the gap larger, just need to order new prototypes ...
In theory, if you are very careful, you should be able to solder such that nothing shortens.
Please keep your soldering iron hot, while waiting for the HyperMicro Version 0.1 ...
edit:
I've found out how to make the gap larger, just need to order new prototypes ...
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
I'll have a look at it tomorrow, and take better pictures. Maybe I can fix it somehow.
I'll also post the firmware for the other beta testers to use.
I'll also post the firmware for the other beta testers to use.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Might be delayed because of incoming pimpmypcb orders.
- suka
- frobiac
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: custom split ergonomic "RedTilt"
- Main mouse: IBM trackpoint
- Favorite switch: MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0046
Matt3o beat me but I also received the prototype package yesterday and spent the better part of the evening soldering it up and contemplating whether to solder the teensy to the board or connect it separately to save some height.
But in the end I decided to hook it up as intended and was able to
test the left 2/3 of the board by midnight. So far so good, more detailed
photos and buildlog information once I get my firmware running with more than 8 columns
But in the end I decided to hook it up as intended and was able to
test the left 2/3 of the board by midnight. So far so good, more detailed
photos and buildlog information once I get my firmware running with more than 8 columns
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
ok, my bad.
I soldered the diodes on the back and I flipped anode/cathode
Everything seems to be working apart from the three microswitches on the bottom
I soldered the diodes on the back and I flipped anode/cathode
Everything seems to be working apart from the three microswitches on the bottom
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I prefer the discussion here and not via e-mail, becuase I can't keep track of those messages from 3 different people:
D6?suka wrote:Alright, working here too, but I hit the only corner-case where diode polarity cannot be compensated in software: Pin D6 with the LED does not work the way I set it up, duh! So I cut the trace close do the Teensy corner and hooked it up to the unused E5 via a short wire, and everything is fine now. Next steps: Layout mapping fixes and Omron installation: I guess I'll rather cut their pins and jumper the center one than have a different logic handling in software...
What's the trouble with D6?Muirium wrote:What, you used the dreaded Teensy LED pin D6? 7bit… c'mon! See what you made me do!
- suka
- frobiac
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: custom split ergonomic "RedTilt"
- Main mouse: IBM trackpoint
- Favorite switch: MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0046
D6 goes to ground through the on-board teensy LED and can thus only be used as output.
In my case, columns are inputs due to diode direction and the first column is not working. Solution: Cut trace to D6 close to teensy pin and hook column up to one of the unused inner pins E6 or F5...
In my case, columns are inputs due to diode direction and the first column is not working. Solution: Cut trace to D6 close to teensy pin and hook column up to one of the unused inner pins E6 or F5...
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
They're all fine. (So long as they're letter + number, obviously.) Remember the extra ones in the middle, like Suka's using. They can really help.
- suka
- frobiac
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: custom split ergonomic "RedTilt"
- Main mouse: IBM trackpoint
- Favorite switch: MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0046
No, as far as I know D6 is the only truly limited pin due to the ground connection and its diode, all others are only required depending on special functionality: See https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/pinout.html
The interrupt-enabled pins or the special pins for hardware i²c / SPI come to mind. Of the Analog/PWM pins more are available should you intend to use them..
I finally found the correct keycaps for the bottom row and managed to get all keys to register - the adjusted firmware can be found in branch hypermicro on github. Still thinking about the mouse buttons: Should I use small rectangular ones that point to the front instead of up? Could be easier to use and also less complicated to integrate into a case. But until a trackpoint is mounted that does not matter much.
The interrupt-enabled pins or the special pins for hardware i²c / SPI come to mind. Of the Analog/PWM pins more are available should you intend to use them..
I finally found the correct keycaps for the bottom row and managed to get all keys to register - the adjusted firmware can be found in branch hypermicro on github. Still thinking about the mouse buttons: Should I use small rectangular ones that point to the front instead of up? Could be easier to use and also less complicated to integrate into a case. But until a trackpoint is mounted that does not matter much.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
I haven't checked yet, but I believe my D6 is actually working, is it because of the direction of the diode?
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
Yes, removal of the LED or the resistor will make it a "normal" pin. Resistor might be easier, a blob of solder over both sides, and off it goes!
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
You would need the switches with the angled pins. That's why there is that 2nd solder-pad column!suka wrote: ↑ Still thinking about the mouse buttons: Should I use small rectangular ones that point to the front instead of up? Could be easier to use and also less complicated to integrate into a case. But until a trackpoint is mounted that does not matter much.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Tilted! So long as it's a fairly slim angle. (I never use the extension legs on any of my boards. I like them low, but not quite flat.) Looks much better than big feet.
If the price is right, consider me interested already!
Of course, I still need to lay my hands on the prototype. The last post delivery of the week just came up empty handed…
If the price is right, consider me interested already!
Of course, I still need to lay my hands on the prototype. The last post delivery of the week just came up empty handed…
- suka
- frobiac
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: custom split ergonomic "RedTilt"
- Main mouse: IBM trackpoint
- Favorite switch: MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0046
The final design could surely allow both with a set of optional spacers to be inserted at the screw supports and edges that would put the pcb at level. Mouse button cut-outs mean some work then, but should be doable modular enough, too.
But an optional trackpoint would mean the PCB has to sit even higher, while an extenal teensy solution would allow to design an absolute minimal height case - options over options, gotta love that prototyping stuff But first I need to see if all dimensions are correct to proceed...
But an optional trackpoint would mean the PCB has to sit even higher, while an extenal teensy solution would allow to design an absolute minimal height case - options over options, gotta love that prototyping stuff But first I need to see if all dimensions are correct to proceed...
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Nooo! The front must be low. This is crucial, or you wind up chunky indeed:
That was fine in the old days. But tiny boards like the HyperMicro need to ride low or they look proper weird. That's why I prefer the slanted case so strongly.
The mouse buttons are an interesting design constraint. Could we have essentially an open mouth at the front edge of the case to accommodate them as low as possible?
That was fine in the old days. But tiny boards like the HyperMicro need to ride low or they look proper weird. That's why I prefer the slanted case so strongly.
The mouse buttons are an interesting design constraint. Could we have essentially an open mouth at the front edge of the case to accommodate them as low as possible?
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I've changed the logic of the mouse buttons, so now pin 1 and 2 are connected (and not 1 and 3) if it is pushed.
I don't want to connect col 0 with some other pad than D6, because I don't know where to put all those tracks. It would mean to almost entirely re-design the PCB.
Also: with larger keybaords, we would run out of pins.
If it is no problem to use it, by removing a resistor or LED from the Teensy, I would like to keep it that way.
I don't want to connect col 0 with some other pad than D6, because I don't know where to put all those tracks. It would mean to almost entirely re-design the PCB.
Also: with larger keybaords, we would run out of pins.
If it is no problem to use it, by removing a resistor or LED from the Teensy, I would like to keep it that way.