Group Build prototyping phase
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
In the meantime, mini or micro will do.
So, Matteo, when you say you can make the design work for anything: do you mean we can make these to order and still be cheap, or is it still better to do a batch of identical cases?
So, Matteo, when you say you can make the design work for anything: do you mean we can make these to order and still be cheap, or is it still better to do a batch of identical cases?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
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well. the tray itself should work for almost any design. With 3-4 tray sizes you should cover basically any sub-TKL keyboard.
what changes is the plate (and of course the PCB, if any).
My plan is to finally produce my beloved 16x5 in batch with 3 variants: ISO, ANSI, X (my personal favorite, with 2x1u instead of 2u backspace). Any additional layout can be added and will benefit of a discounted price since we already have the machines started. Of course the more per design the cheaper.
what changes is the plate (and of course the PCB, if any).
My plan is to finally produce my beloved 16x5 in batch with 3 variants: ISO, ANSI, X (my personal favorite, with 2x1u instead of 2u backspace). Any additional layout can be added and will benefit of a discounted price since we already have the machines started. Of course the more per design the cheaper.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
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with ALPS it's the same old problem: stabilizers.
we could design a plate around an existing keyboard that will be later raped of keycaps and stabilizers, but... is there really interest? and which keyboard?
we could design a plate around an existing keyboard that will be later raped of keycaps and stabilizers, but... is there really interest? and which keyboard?
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Which 16x5 layout were you planning on specifically? There were so many awesome layouts posted here, I would almost be fine with any of them. And with alps, just for the sake of saying it, would a stabless design like Bianca work for an Alps board?
EDIT: Keycaps. Getting the required Bianca caps in MX is a challenge in itself, good luck getting them in Alps mount...
EDIT: Keycaps. Getting the required Bianca caps in MX is a challenge in itself, good luck getting them in Alps mount...
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Fair enough. I'm still thinking of chopping an AEK II to TKL, which sidesteps all that, and gives me a case to work with. But nice not to hear a warning about the PCB or plate. So…
How about MX cap compatible switches like Mitsumi miniature and Cherry M84? Neither is PCB compatible with MX, and M84 doesn't take a plate at all. But they're both more promising than Alps, just for stabs alone!
How about MX cap compatible switches like Mitsumi miniature and Cherry M84? Neither is PCB compatible with MX, and M84 doesn't take a plate at all. But they're both more promising than Alps, just for stabs alone!
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
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This on is the "X"pyrelink wrote: ↑Which 16x5 layout were you planning on specifically?
then an ISO and an ANSI version of this
doable-ish. Bianca has 1.75u spacebars, and 1.75u keycaps are rare. We could do with 1.5u instead, but still you need quite some 1.5u keycaps, you probably need to scavenge a couple of keyboards.pyrelink wrote: ↑And with alps, just for the sake of saying it, would a stabless design like Bianca work for an Alps board?
I would actually love to have a futaba keyboard, given enough time and money anything is possible If we provide the full kit (case/plate/switches/stabilizers) that would totally feasible.Muirium wrote: ↑How about MX cap compatible switches like Mitsumi miniature and Cherry M84? Neither is PCB compatible with MX, and M84 doesn't take a plate at all. But they're both more promising than Alps, just for stabs alone!
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I agree with a Futaba keyboard. That would be awesome, albeit very niche.
I really like this layout, so you can count me in. I know you only have a preliminary mockup, but might I ask how the plate mounts in the case?
I really like this layout, so you can count me in. I know you only have a preliminary mockup, but might I ask how the plate mounts in the case?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
2, 2.25 and 2.75u aren't awful without stabs, by the way. Think I've got a 2.25u space bar on my no stabs Monterey board (with Mrinterface MX adapters) and I forget it's not stabilised every time I type on that one. There's not a hard limit at 2 units. Rather, that's the first size that's large enough to fit stabs under.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
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usually Costar, at least for the first version that will probably be plate mounted. I'd like to offer a full kit, so the stabilizers would be included.pyrelink wrote: ↑I really like this layout, so you can count me in. I know you only have a preliminary mockup, but might I ask how the plate mounts in the case?
Last edited by matt3o on 27 Jan 2015, 17:18, edited 1 time in total.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Very fancy, Nuum! How does it feel without the stabiliser clipped into the cap? Somehow the rest of us put up with 1.75u just fine!
It's actually a mighty 2.75u Shift key that I'm using, stab-free, on my little Monterey:
Not a single stab in place on that whole keyboard! The vertical Return key (which is what Daniel calls a semi Big Ass Enter as I recall) is more noticeable to me as I hit it on the low side, as if it's a little ANSI, like I do ISO Return keys in general.
So long as you design a stab-free layout with your own typing preferences in mind, I'm sure it can work just excellently. The key is to put the centre of the caps, and therefore the switches, just where your fingers expect. It's worth it for itty-bitty space bars!
It's actually a mighty 2.75u Shift key that I'm using, stab-free, on my little Monterey:
Not a single stab in place on that whole keyboard! The vertical Return key (which is what Daniel calls a semi Big Ass Enter as I recall) is more noticeable to me as I hit it on the low side, as if it's a little ANSI, like I do ISO Return keys in general.
So long as you design a stab-free layout with your own typing preferences in mind, I'm sure it can work just excellently. The key is to put the centre of the caps, and therefore the switches, just where your fingers expect. It's worth it for itty-bitty space bars!
- Nuum
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: KBD8X Mk I (60g Clears), Phantom (Nixdorf Blacks)
- Main mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB
- Favorite switch: 60g MX Clears/Brown Alps/Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0084
It doesn't feel different without the stabilizer in place, at least not different from the 1.5u keys. I don't know why they put a stabilizer there, especially on such a seldom used key. Next: Find a keyboard with a stabilized 1.5u keycap.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Much to my frustration, a 2.75u key that does bother me with its wobble is the right Shift on my NMB here right now. The key is stabilised, but with a dinky little stab that sits too close to the middle to do much good. Space invaders have many things going for them, but they're not as solid as MX or Montereys at lateral stability. So the result is a right Shift key that's wobbly unless you hit it in the central 50%. Unfortunately, I habitually hit the left of it…
Annoying, because otherwise this board's got a profound slick-solidness to it. Hard to describe, but easy to feel. They managed to stabilise the ISO Return just fine. (But the vertical caps on the numpad are definitely wobbly. I'm so unused to numpads that I never touch them habitually!)
Annoying, because otherwise this board's got a profound slick-solidness to it. Hard to describe, but easy to feel. They managed to stabilise the ISO Return just fine. (But the vertical caps on the numpad are definitely wobbly. I'm so unused to numpads that I never touch them habitually!)
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Thats good, I like costar.matt3o wrote: ↑usually Costar, at least for the first version that will probably be plate mounted. I'd like to offer a full kit, so the stabilizers would be included.pyrelink wrote: ↑I really like this layout, so you can count me in. I know you only have a preliminary mockup, but might I ask how the plate mounts in the case?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Hint: Matteo likes Costar too.
http://deskthority.net/review-f45/ozone ... ay#p203435
I've got Cherry plate mount stabs waiting to be used. Would it be a stretch to include those?
http://deskthority.net/review-f45/ozone ... ay#p203435
I've got Cherry plate mount stabs waiting to be used. Would it be a stretch to include those?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
here's the catch: in my humble opinion the unified cherry+costar cut-out doesn't 100% work with costar. The specs for the costar stabs that runs across the forums these days is --to my experience-- wrong. You always need to file the stabilizer a bit and the plate another bit to make it work.Muirium wrote: ↑I've got Cherry plate mount stabs waiting to be used. Would it be a stretch to include those?
For this keyboard I designed a costar cutout that should work out of the box, no post-processing needed. This new design does not work with cherry, though.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
The right decision, frankly, even though I'm the guy who prefers Cherry. Their plate mount stabs aren't exactly common, after all.
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I am a fan of Cherry, for their easier design (no inserts), as I have ruined valuable Keycaps with the costar inserts getting stuck and even breaking off in the keycap, I have lost inserts, and broke inserts. However at the end of the day, even a clipped Cherry stab doesn't come close to the feeling of the Costar. I don't hate Cherry by any means, I just like Costar a bit better.
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Speaking of the Victorian design you have bordering the case, could you elaborate more on how that would work? Could everyone have a separate design? Or does it need to be the same? Would it actually be like cut out of the steel, or just like laser engraved? Any chance you have some dimensions or a example size image or vector for the pattern? The first thing I thought of when you mentioned it was hieroglyphs
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Real Victorian design would have lion legs:
Fortunately, I'm more Bauhaus than country house… but the idea of custom engravings is appealing indeed.
Fortunately, I'm more Bauhaus than country house… but the idea of custom engravings is appealing indeed.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
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the design is cut out (not engraved). For the sake of simplicity would be nice to find 2-3 designs and use those. I have to work on CAD not SVG and making those freehand drawings is not easy at all (SVG to DWG conversion is less than optimal, at least with the tools I have). The size is approx 300x20mmpyrelink wrote: ↑Speaking of the Victorian design you have bordering the case, could you elaborate more on how that would work? Could everyone have a separate design? Or does it need to be the same? Would it actually be like cut out of the steel, or just like laser engraved? Any chance you have some dimensions or a example size image or vector for the pattern? The first thing I thought of when you mentioned it was hieroglyphs
Another small details. The plate rests over 8 standoffs, between the plate and the standoff you have a tiny silicone o-ring (to reduce vibration).
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Nice detail, that. Some people like the metallic sound (including me) but an option to damp it is always smart.
What have you got in mind for the controller and internal wiring: depends on the PCB? And a fixed USB mini or micro panel socket?
A good "kit" keyboard would include the wire for joining the socket to the Teensy (or whatever else), as those joins are actually quite tricky. Especially if you have to hack apart existing cables.
What have you got in mind for the controller and internal wiring: depends on the PCB? And a fixed USB mini or micro panel socket?
A good "kit" keyboard would include the wire for joining the socket to the Teensy (or whatever else), as those joins are actually quite tricky. Especially if you have to hack apart existing cables.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
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yes, I thought about it, but you can't change the slope if the case is "angular". I don't know if it is better to leave the slope variable with "pie feet" or have a fixed angle and spare a few bucks.Incognito wrote: ↑ Hmmm ... very steampunk-ish ... . I would have thought that making the case angular would eliminate the need for 'feet' thus simplifying things?
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
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I was in contact with massdrop, but it is taking forever... so my idea would be a version 1 ready for hand-wiring, with even wires already cut and pealed at the right size. The controller would be a teensy of course.Muirium wrote: ↑What have you got in mind for the controller and internal wiring: depends on the PCB? And a fixed USB mini or micro panel socket?
A good "kit" keyboard would include the wire for joining the socket to the Teensy (or whatever else), as those joins are actually quite tricky. Especially if you have to hack apart existing cables.
In a month or so I should be able to have a thing like that started. Version 2 would be with PCB, I have to learn kicad and make some prototypes... so it might take some time.
- pyrelink
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB 2
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I like a good bit of angle myself. I use my HHKB with the feet out, my 107 with the long bar foot, and with Muirium's 56 key wireless, the intent is to build angle into the case. However there are still a lot of people who enjoy typing on completely flat keyboards, and the use of feet, does compensate enough for those of us who like an angle in our keyboards. No matter how much I might like it to be angled, depending on how many people want in on this, I might just say leave it as is.
I will probably hold off on working on any special designs in this case. I imagine what I was thinking is much more akin to dyesubbing then being cut out of steel. This is all quite exciting. I really like all of this (and it being cheap is icing on the cake).
When I asked how would the plate mount in the case, this is actually what I was asking I love the idea of the silicone O-Ring.matt3o wrote: ↑Another small details. The plate rests over 8 standoffs, between the plate and the standoff you have a tiny silicone o-ring (to reduce vibration).
I will probably hold off on working on any special designs in this case. I imagine what I was thinking is much more akin to dyesubbing then being cut out of steel. This is all quite exciting. I really like all of this (and it being cheap is icing on the cake).
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
thanks
but well... by cheap... I mean "as cheap as a custom keyboard could be"
but well... by cheap... I mean "as cheap as a custom keyboard could be"
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
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Oh great, i love to see some news here!
I would love an angled case, and not to have to use feet! But i know, it is not easy, since you have then lots of angled areas. I have some ideas regarding a custom Beamspring case, but having an angled case is always a problem. Putting feet down there simplifies everything. That's the reason why i love Filcos cases that much - compared to Duckys for example, because of the simple case design.
I would love an angled case, and not to have to use feet! But i know, it is not easy, since you have then lots of angled areas. I have some ideas regarding a custom Beamspring case, but having an angled case is always a problem. Putting feet down there simplifies everything. That's the reason why i love Filcos cases that much - compared to Duckys for example, because of the simple case design.
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
what would be the ideal angle? is there a "standard"?