Blainchen told me that he can get the MX dark blues as well as all the other switches.sixty wrote:What are these and where are they from?7bit wrote:MXDARKBLUE.......3
I've hoped you know what these are.
Blainchen told me that he can get the MX dark blues as well as all the other switches.sixty wrote:What are these and where are they from?7bit wrote:MXDARKBLUE.......3
Well, there are 3 different types I have seen. There is a common variant from a variant of used dye/plastic used, which is identical to the normal MX blues. You even find these in G80s and Filcos. Then there is an ancient 20 year old switch that is actually an extremely different blue, like a navy color.7bit wrote:Blainchen told me that he can get the MX dark blues as well as all the other keys.sixty wrote:What are these and where are they from?7bit wrote:MXDARKBLUE.......3
I've hoped you know what these are.
No darkblues.sixty wrote:I would be interested to know which ones are being sourced here.
Do you mean that the switches could break easily ?Minskleip wrote:I don't think you can use modern keycaps with the 7bit plate because there are no space for stabilisers. You'd need the iso win thing.
The plate is necessary because there are no holes for the extra pins which are on pcb mounted switches. (You can, but they could break off easily)
I think the plate for ISO and ANSI can be made such that all keys above the cursor key get cutouts.Minskleip wrote:I don't think you can use modern keycaps with the 7bit plate because there are no space for stabilisers. You'd need the iso win thing.
The plate is necessary because there are no holes for the extra pins which are on pcb mounted switches. (You can, but they could break off easily)
There is no way to place a stabiliser into the middle of a cut-out for a switch. PCB mounted stabilisers would be an option, but there were some reasons why this was no option (space, costs, I don't know).Gilgam wrote:Do you mean that the switches could break easily ?
I have read a message telling that you could change the switches without desoldering, and that was my main concern.
Thanks for your help.
If you use plate mountable switches directly on the PCB without a plate, then there are no stabiliser pins for stopping you from rotating the switch. Thus the 'power pins' on the switch will break if you rotate with enough force.Gilgam wrote:Do you mean that the switches could break easily ?Minskleip wrote:I don't think you can use modern keycaps with the 7bit plate because there are no space for stabilisers. You'd need the iso win thing.
The plate is necessary because there are no holes for the extra pins which are on pcb mounted switches. (You can, but they could break off easily)
I have read a message telling that you could change the switches without desoldering, and that was my main concern.
Thanks for your help.
It is relatively easy to drill the holes and file away some more from the mounting plate to be able to fit PCB-mounted stabilizers.7bit wrote:PCB mounted stabilisers would be an option, but there were some reasons why this was no option (space, costs, I don't know).
WASD keyboards?Tarkoon wrote:...
EDIT: Hmm, how long is the shortened right shift in 7bit's layout? I fear that a row 4 cap in this size is not available in the standard keycap sets...
I read your post sloppily and thought you said you wanted to split the ANSI left shift into a 1x key plus a 1.25x key. That was creative I thought, and I like creative Ideas. So I did that, but now I see that wasn't at all what you were asking for.. That only means it was really my own creative idea, and I like that even better =DTarkoon wrote:Hmm, my dream layout would be the ISOWIN layout with the extra button right of the right shift and all the buttons between the arrows and the function keys, like on 7bits layout.
[...]
EDIT: Hmm, how long is the shortened right shift in 7bit's layout? I fear that a row 4 cap in this size is not available in the standard keycap sets...
Ah yes, but no. I added the reverse split =) A 1X key to the left of an 1.25X key instead of the way ISO is.Tarkoon wrote:[...]
And concerning your creative idea with the split up left shift --> ISO has this as standard! ^^
Wait!PrinsValium wrote:Ah yes, but no. I added the reverse split =) A 1X key to the left of an 1.25X key instead of the way ISO is.Tarkoon wrote:[...]
And concerning your creative idea with the split up left shift --> ISO has this as standard! ^^
take clears and blacks or what about reds instead of the blacks to swap the spings to get ergo-clears and blackish reds?Minskleip wrote:What do you think about this 7bit?
Oh, I'll be wanting some switches as well.
You have to reinforce the structural integrity field and depolarize the deflector.PrinsValium wrote:Yes that is what I said =) This thing is already holier than the Vatican during a meteor shower. I don't think a few more holes will compromise the structural integrity (any more..).
Minskleip wrote:Not a bad idea...7bit wrote: take clears and blacks or what about reds instead of the blacks to swap the spings to get ergo-clears and blackish reds?
Excellent! Would it be possible to order a pair of plates like this?PrinsValium wrote:Yes that is what I said =) This thing is already holier than the Vatican during a meteor shower. I don't think a few more holes will compromise the structural integrity (any more..).