Lubing IBM Model F/M Springs

[ohaimark]

Do any of you have experience with light lube (not grease) on the buckling springs of your IBM keyboards?

I chose to lube my Model F 5150's springs with the lighter formulation of FaderLube, applied with a paintbrush, when I took it apart for cleaning. My intent was not to change the press feel, but to prevent rust.

I really like what it did to the feel. For the lack of a better word... It feels less "twangy." It is a touch more "pingy" and more vibrations might be transferred to one's fingertips when typing. I can't say for sure because I don't have a control switch or board for comparison.

[fohat]

I have considered something like this, but was afraid that some of it would eventually trickle down and upset the capacitance somehow.

I would love to see a long-term report.

[andrewjoy]

I have used some standard WD40 spray type oil on a few springs that where showing corrosion and wiped it off after, i did not noticed any difference.

[ohaimark]

I have considered something like this, but was afraid that some of it would eventually trickle down and upset the capacitance somehow.

I would love to see a long-term report.

There isn't any way for it to ruin the capacitance... The amount of lube used is minimal, so no dripping happens. In addition, the lube is plastic/PCB safe. On top of that there is little chance for it to penetrate the PCB layers in the board.

[ohaimark]

I have used some standard WD40 spray type oil on a few springs that where showing corrosion and wiped it off after, i did not noticed any difference.

We did a couple things differently, so it may not be comparable. Note that I say "may" because I lack a guinea pig board to play with.

1) WD-40 is hydrocarbon based and evaporates quickly.
2) You wiped your springs down after spraying. I brushed mine on and left it.
3) The formulation of WD-40 is quite different from FL; FL is specifically designed for small moving electronic parts whereas WD-40 is meant to be a penetrating oil for loosening tight connections, cleaning dirty parts, and rejecting water/debris.

[chiptea]

I'm gonna piggyback on your thread and ask something I've been meaning to ask for a while now. Could you try out lubing the sides of the caps/inside of the barrels? Would't that reduce friction and give it an entirely different keyfeel? I've never heard of anyone trying it out, and it seems it might yield some interesting results.

[ohaimark]

I just ordered a can of Teflon Dry Lubricant... I have an IBM Model M terminal board that I was going to sell unmolested, but the fates (A.K.A. chiptea) have spoken and told me to go ahead with it.

I'll get back to you with the results.

[chiptea]

Nice. I'll be looking forward to hearing your findings. Even if it doesn't work out, it shouldn't be too hard to clean out the lube if you don't go overboard with it. Certainly it's not something that's going to ruin a board.

[Rotti]

I just want to say, if corrosion resistance is the primary goal, I would reccomend a dry film lube as well.

[ohaimark]

The lube is in today. Will get back to you with results and photos.

[ohaimark]

The lube *definitely* makes the switch smooth. It doesn't make a huge difference in feel, but the difference is there.

I did a semi-scientific test (I didn't have the equipment to remove all variables) to prove it.

I set a piezoelectric pickup on the case of the Model M. Instead of recording vibrations from air like normal mics, piezoelectrics can convert surface vibrations to electric impulses. I figured that the vibrations from the piezo would correlate directly with switch smoothness. I was right.

Using Audacity to record lubed and non-lubed keys resulted in these plots:

Spoiler:

Reading the plots:

Spoiler:

1) Downstroke before actuation
2) Activation & bottom out
3) Ringing
4) Release noise
5) Ringing

Conclusions:

Spoiler:

1) Lubed switches are smoother when pressing down -- less vibrations are present, and present vibrations are more consistent.
2) The tactile "buckle" is MUCH MUCH sharper; less variations in vibration make it feel smoother. Look at the difference! Holy crap.
3) The aren't any crazy changes in ringing -- perhaps slightly faster falloff in the lubed switch.
4) I think that the lubed spring vibrates more on the upstroke because it slides faster.
5) The ringing is also more intense... That reinforces my theory that the spring slides faster on the upstroke.

I don't have any long term data on the lube, but in the short term it appears quite appealing.

[Muirium]

Appealing. I might just try some of this myself. Any idea if spray on PTFE is a good idea at all? I've got that, copper grease and silicon grease, all from my bike work.

[ohaimark]

I used a spray on version. PFTE = Teflon, so I think yours is equivalent. Just make sure it's plastic safe.

It also does crazy stuff to White ALPS switches. Makes them feel smooth and less balky. On the other hand, the click turns into more of a thock.

[Muirium]

Nice. As far as I can tell, it's a wet rather than dry lube. I use it to blast water out of dirty bike chains. I'll try it on my little buckling spring tester…

[chiptea]

Interesting! I might just try this out on my model F after I get it working!

[snarfarlarkus]

Can you please write up a tutorial on how to lube the model f? cheers

[ohaimark]

Tutorial:

Remove keycap. Pull stem. Spray lube in the tube and the stem; be sure to attain full coverage. Wait 10 minutes for it to dry, insert the stem, and attach the keycap. Use keyboard.

Ms and Fs may be the world's easiest keyboard lube job.

[andrewjoy]

I am tempted to give it a try on my 102 terminal. As nice as it feels for a more moden M is is a little inconsistent in the click, even if every single rivet is still good.

[chiptea]

Wouldn't spraying it cause the risk of having it leak all over the membrane? I was thinking of using a Q tip to avoid this. Regardless, thanks for trying it out! Also, what brand of lubricant did you use?

[ohaimark]

It will get on the membrane. It doesn't matter if it gets on the membrane, though; the top layer prevents it from getting in the actual capacitive layer and the film it leaves is so thin that it is inconsequential to the mechanics.

I used Liquid Wrench L512 with CERFLON. I checked the chemicals to make sure they were safe for ABS and PBT plastic.

[chiptea]

All right, thanks. If I'm going to do it, I think I'll use q tips or something to apply the lube. I don't like the idea of grease getting inside and staying there.

[andrewjoy]

Could you link to something similar in the UK ?

Would it also be work trying the dry lub on some cherries see how it works ?

[ohaimark]

Look for, on your favorite shopping site, "dry pfte lubricant" or "dry teflon lubricant." Post a link here and I'll confirm whether it's good stuff or not.

I can't quite bring myself to shop for you all.

[andrewjoy]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006 ... =8-3-spell

[ohaimark]

That should do the trick!

[andrewjoy]

tried it on a few keys on one of my 122Fs , it does help a little smoother and the sound has less reverb

you only need a tiny tiny amount! Too much and you have to let it dry first or it wont work.


When i get my M2 i am going to disassemble and give the springs a good coating before i put it back together.

[Xcore]

Did you ever get to try it out with your M2¿

[andresteare]

The lube *definitely* makes the switch smooth. It doesn't make a huge difference in feel, but the difference is there.

I did a semi-scientific test (I didn't have the equipment to remove all variables) to prove it.

I set a piezoelectric pickup on the case of the Model M. Instead of recording vibrations from air like normal mics, piezoelectrics can convert surface vibrations to electric impulses. I figured that the vibrations from the piezo would correlate directly with switch smoothness. I was right.

Using Audacity to record lubed and non-lubed keys resulted in these plots:

Spoiler:

Reading the plots:

Spoiler:

1) Downstroke before actuation
2) Activation & bottom out
3) Ringing
4) Release noise
5) Ringing

Conclusions:

Spoiler:

1) Lubed switches are smoother when pressing down -- less vibrations are present, and present vibrations are more consistent.
2) The tactile "buckle" is MUCH MUCH sharper; less variations in vibration make it feel smoother. Look at the difference! Holy crap.
3) The aren't any crazy changes in ringing -- perhaps slightly faster falloff in the lubed switch.
4) I think that the lubed spring vibrates more on the upstroke because it slides faster.
5) The ringing is also more intense... That reinforces my theory that the spring slides faster on the upstroke.

I don't have any long term data on the lube, but in the short term it appears quite appealing.

Did long-term went well?