Let's create the FSSK/FEXT = DONE !!!!

[chzel]

Great idea the FSSK registration page

Ha! It's going to be a mod race! Ship the PCBs already!

Please get some pics of the modifications to the prototype, and a description if possible!

[idollar]

Great idea the FSSK registration page

Ha! It's going to be a mod race!

That's the idea

[idollar]

Here come the pictures:

First things first - The ID:

DSC_4854.jpg (112.29 KiB) Viewed 11957 times

The keyboard, in its new live as the 0001fssk:

DSC_4858.jpg (89.94 KiB) Viewed 11957 times

Opened:

DSC_4861.jpg (86.14 KiB) Viewed 11957 times

DSC_4863.jpg (106.97 KiB) Viewed 11957 times

And here you can see what I meant with the connector to the controller:

DSC_4864.jpg (127.83 KiB) Viewed 11957 times

I have used a 40 wires flat cable, I guess it is the same connector that the IDE devices used (parallel ATA)

[idollar]

Some more details on the connection between the PCB and the controller in this post

Here you can see the controller disconnected. It is very easy to do. I was afraid that this setup would affect the performance of the sensing or it would not fit in the assembly. None of the two risks realised. It is just perfect. It allows to manipulate the PCB without being attached to the controller, test it and check it. It was a great idea that I guess that future fssk owner would like to use also.

DSC_4865.jpg (121.77 KiB) Viewed 11942 times

Note also that out of the 40 cables in the controller, only 30 are used. In order to ensure proper separation between the rows and the columns I have grounded the 10 cables in the middle. The original F controller, and therefore the xwhatsit and our fssk controller, has two GND ground cables only. I linked all these 10 spares into a single "cable" that I have grounded.

DSC_4867_01.jpg (109.76 KiB) Viewed 11942 times

[idollar]

In the following you can see the controller disconnected from the PCB:

DSC_4865.jpg (121.77 KiB) Viewed 11933 times

[idollar]

There are only female connector to these cables (that I know). I have used the mounting male to connect on one side. The bits that are suppose to go into the PCB fit the other female connector. In other words, I have used the male-PCB plug to link the two female connectors. This is the point where the pairs are crossed. As I have said before, this is not a problem at all. It just need a different xwhatsit configuration. The one that I am using to type this post

DSC_4868.jpg (91.14 KiB) Viewed 11920 times

In the picture above you can see this make-PCB connector, standing vertical on the female one, connected to the fssk with the parallel ATA cable.

I post the same picture that I have posted in the post before to show how the make connector looks when plugged into the female connector linked to the parallel ATA. I hope that this clarifies the setup.

DSC_4867_01.jpg (109.76 KiB) Viewed 11910 times

[chzel]

You lost me there...

[idollar]

This is a different view of the front assembly:

DSC_4866.jpg (139.21 KiB) Viewed 11904 times

[idollar]

You lost me there...

Read it again . If you are still lost, I will post more details.

[idollar]

The following shows the very thin layer of foam that I have added between the metal plate and the PCB.
I also isolated the metal plate with wide tape, to ensure that the bottom pads of the PCB would not short-circuit.

DSC_4869.jpg (116.58 KiB) Viewed 11876 times

[idollar]

In this post, a closeup of the cable and the controller just before the assembly closes.
As you can see, the length of the cable and the position of the connector is key: I first soldered the cable, measured the position for the connector with the assembly on the case and only then placed the connector (pressed). I am just thinking that some people may be interested on the length of each section. I will post the information.

DSC_4870.jpg (127.07 KiB) Viewed 11948 times

[idollar]

In this post, you can find another view of the connector, the cable and the controller.

DSC_4871.jpg (111.8 KiB) Viewed 11936 times

[idollar]

And finally, the hole for which we need the plastic piece.

DSC_4872.jpg (133.72 KiB) Viewed 11928 times

[idollar]

I am not posting the process to assemble the PCB between the plates. I did not take pictures of the process, the focus was on the troubleshooting and the testing of the set. I do not want to open the keyboard again until I test it longer. I do not want to risk the test.

But do not worry, I will do it and take some pictures.

[chzel]

Now I get it, your next set of pics made it clear! There are 3 parts to the connector assembly...

I can't wait to get mine and try it!

[idollar]

0001fssk-audio.jpg (90.55 KiB) Viewed 11892 times

The end of the picture shows spacebar clicks. You can clearly see the clicks and the clacks

How do I post the audio file ?... MP3 attachments are not allowed

EDIT:

[scottc]

You could upload it as a video to youtube, or post the audio on SoundCloud or something perhaps?

[idollar]

You could upload it as a video to youtube, or post the audio on SoundCloud or something perhaps?

It seems that this is the proposed procedure ... keyboards-f2/audio-files-t11260.html?hi ... ts%20audio

[idollar]

The sound of the 0001FSSK:

0001fssk-audio.jpg (90.55 KiB) Viewed 11845 times

The end of the picture shows spacebar clicks. You can clearly see the clicks and the clacks

I cannot post a comparison with a regular SSK. The other one is at work

[XMIT]

No promises but I'll see what I can do.

Thank you XMIT

My idea was to "cut" the piece in the middle to allow the cable to go through. We could glue these two parts together, but there may be better options to deal with the issue of the size of the USB connector.

Okay, well, I made this. It's based on the cable insert in Model Ms with an attached cable. The back should not be perpendicular to the base pieces, but should be set back a few degrees. I have not tested this. It may not work. Still a work in progress. (Can't figure out how to share the .STL file for a 3D printer... feeling lazy.)

Model M Cable Insert.jpg (197.97 KiB) Viewed 11794 times

[idollar]

No promises but I'll see what I can do.

Thank you XMIT

My idea was to "cut" the piece in the middle to allow the cable to go through. We could glue these two parts together, but there may be better options to deal with the issue of the size of the USB connector.

Okay, well, I made this. It's based on the cable insert in Model Ms with an attached cable. The back should not be perpendicular to the base pieces, but should be set back a few degrees. I have not tested this. It may not work. Still a work in progress. (Can't figure out how to share the .STL file for a 3D printer... feeling lazy.)

Model M Cable Insert.jpg

Nice

I have a couple of comments if you allow me: the cable is smaller than what you have designed. It will be a regular USB cable ( from 3 to 5 mm in diameter ?).

In order to let the cable go through in the middle, I thought to make an insert consisting of two mirror parts that one could glue together.

There is a picture in one of my previous post showing the cable leaving the case.

EDIT: This one:

[ramnes]

This is awesome, congratulations!

[XMIT]

Right well, what I drew was the actual Model M cable stop insert. Often times this is one piece, and the cable itself has another piece that snaps onto it (or wraps around it) that fits into the cable stop insert.

There is no standard for USB cable thickness. They are all over the place.

I'll think about this some more but maybe I can offer some other solution that works with multiple size cables, incorporates some strain relief, etc.

Thanks for the photo. I do have an SSK here - and many Model Ms - to play with for fitment. This part of the cases, the cable exit areas (using the two holes that the controller uses for securing the SDL connector) I think are identical.

[I_KILL_HORSES]

Would it be possible to put copper tape under Model M hammers to make them capacitive, or are they too small to contact the right spot at the PCB?

[XMIT]

I'm not even sure the Model M hammers are molded with the correct sort of plastic to be capacitive. I know Ellipse had to make sure that his flippers were molded with carbon black mixed in with the plastic to give them some conductivity and allow them to be capacitive. Even if the plastic is correct, the capacitance value would be different and xwhatsit's controller may not work at all.

So, I don't think this is feasible. I'd love to be proven wrong since sourcing Model F parts is the hardest part of this project.

[I_KILL_HORSES]

I'm not even sure the Model M hammers are molded with the correct sort of plastic to be capacitive. I know Ellipse had to make sure that his flippers were molded with carbon black mixed in with the plastic to give them some conductivity and allow them to be capacitive. Even if the plastic is correct, the capacitance value would be different and xwhatsit's controller may not work at all.

So, I don't think this is feasible. I'd love to be proven wrong since sourcing Model F parts is the hardest part of this project.

The plastic is probably not capacitive, but other materials could be added. Copper tape shouldn't add enough thickness to pose a problem. Isn't the values for the controller either 0 or 1? I say this without claims of being an expert of course, if someone knows how the controller reads input, please let me know.

One big problem might just be the shape. If the PCB and Model M hammers does not line up correctly, it won't work.

[Techno Trousers]

The Model M hammers are shorter, and have a little dimple on the bottom to press into the membrane. They definitely won't work with the capacitive PCB. Additionally, the spring is a different weight than the F springs, so you'd lose the sublime feel the FSSK is trying to achieve.

[I_KILL_HORSES]

The Model M hammers are shorter, and have a little dimple on the bottom to press into the membrane. They definitely won't work with the capacitive PCB. Additionally, the spring is a different weight than the F springs, so you'd lose the sublime feel the FSSK is trying to achieve.

Kinda defeats the point then. Didn't know that F-springs were different, thanks for the info!

[Techno Trousers]

Yeah, I think the Model M springs had to be made heavier, since the hammer must impact the membrane with force to make its connection, instead of the light capacitive kiss of the Model F. Well, that's probably a little too poetic since my F-122 makes its own kind of beautiful racket when I'm pushing 100 WPM.

[Compgeke]

First things first - The ID:
[image here]

Going off that, made a quick test using the info. Changed "plt" to "Date:" since that's a bit more relevant for the project.


Also doing a test with Avery 5660 labels to test how well they stick. Stuck a test print right onto a dirty case, both the outside textured and inside on a smooth spot. If one wanted a custom label for the top it'd be going onto smooth plastic but might as well test the rough as a durability test.