(Model MF) Remodeling the Model M (aka.. the Mara)

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Techno Trousers
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08 Jul 2016, 18:57

lot_lizard wrote: For those of you that already have switches, you would be able to order the board ala-carte without switches and either build the assembly yourself, or you could optionally ship the switches to me if you wanted us to assemble the unit for you.
Cool, that's what I'll probably do then. I won't need assembly help since I've already ANSIfied an F122, and this will be MUCH easier to put together with the screws! :D
lot_lizard wrote: Also... I should note, this group buy turn around will be atypically rapid for something of this size. All manufacturing would be done locally to me, the switches would already be in hand, etc.
That's just icing on the cake for this project! At this rate, we might even be typing on "Full F" FSSKs and FEXTs before those round 1 F62/F77 keyboards get delivered. I have to say, too, that USA production of the steel parts just seems right, somehow. Although I'm sure the raw steel the plates are being cut from was made somewhere overseas.

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Techno Trousers
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08 Jul 2016, 19:03

Ooh, I just thought of something else. Are you looking into sourcing stabilizer inserts? I know Unicomp sells them, although they don't have them advertised as separate parts. For straight ANSI we'd need the following, and the number needed would change from there for those who are splitting ANSI keys to gain extra individual keys, using an ISO enter key, etc.

FSSK: 4 horizontal (white) - shifts, BS, enter
FEXT: 4 horizontal (white), 2 vertical (black)

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lot_lizard

08 Jul 2016, 19:33

Techno Trousers wrote: Ooh, I just thought of something else. Are you looking into sourcing stabilizer inserts? I know Unicomp sells them, although they don't have them advertised as separate parts. For straight ANSI we'd need the following, and the number needed would change from there for those who are splitting ANSI keys to gain extra individual keys, using an ISO enter key, etc.

FSSK: 4 horizontal (white) - shifts, BS, enter
FEXT: 4 horizontal (white), 2 vertical (black)
For this first phase, I'm assuming you would be putting into an existing M with caps, and just salvage that from the other board along with the cap? I can certainly add to the ala-carte though as an option and let people select if they need to save on Unicomp's nuts shipping costs
Techno Trousers wrote: I have to say, too, that USA production of the steel parts just seems right, somehow. Although I'm sure the raw steel the plates are being cut from was made somewhere overseas.
Pittsburg, PA actually... I asked ;)

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Techno Trousers
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08 Jul 2016, 20:25

lot_lizard wrote: For this first phase, I'm assuming you would be putting into an existing M with caps, and just salvage that from the other board along with the cap? I can certainly add to the ala-carte though as an option and let people select if they need to save on Unicomp's nuts shipping costs
Okay, that does make sense. Sometimes it's hard to get those stabilizers out of the barrel plate, but we could buy new ones as needed. I wasn't paying full attention earlier. I know that there will be the sweet "stabilizer barrels" for the space bar, but are there going to be stabilizer points on the top plate for those who want to use old-school wire stabilized caps for shifts and numpad? Actually, will we have the stabilizer barrels for phase 1 if we're not producing barrels at all?
lot_lizard wrote:
Techno Trousers wrote: I have to say, too, that USA production of the steel parts just seems right, somehow. Although I'm sure the raw steel the plates are being cut from was made somewhere overseas.
Pittsburg, PA actually... I asked ;)
"F" yeah, 'Murica! :-D

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pyrelink

08 Jul 2016, 21:01

What will be the solution for the space bar stabilizer barrels? Would they just be ordered from a shapeways type of thing, or would we be trying to get them made out of ABS or similar plastic?

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lot_lizard

08 Jul 2016, 21:31

Techno Trousers wrote: I know that there will be the sweet "stabilizer barrels" for the space bar, but are there going to be stabilizer points on the top plate for those who want to use old-school wire stabilized caps for shifts and numpad? Actually, will we have the stabilizer barrels for phase 1 if we're not producing barrels at all?
There are two stabilizer barrels. One for the spacebar (needed by both boards), and one for the vertical stabilizers (potentially needed by the 101-key... emdude's catch from before).

When I said before that there were no unknowns, this is a known, but a decision will be made based on volumes. If we do produce these, it will be done as a hobby mold (there is no chance we have enough for a REAL production run with just 2+ parts per board). In phase 2, we would be making all barrels, and these would just be a 1/20th of a larger multi-part mold. I have done a few hobby molds in the past, and they turn out well (never tried as a moving part though, so that will take some testing). I have done 2-shot though, which is what these would take... with the second shot adding the "clips" to the first shot barrel. I have another friend that has an extremely nice hobby mold press he made that he has already agreed to let me use. Similar to the one below (created based on the plans from Vincent Gingery):
Spoiler:
Image
But like I said, it really depends on volumes. I would likely have the negative of the barrels just printed in metal or heat resistant plastic (fascinating process) as thin as needed, and use an epoxy mold form to hold the print. It's involved, but I have no question it would turn out well. The fall back plan is just welded metal clips (which I would likely just do myself) using a spot/mig welder. I prefer plastic because of metal on metal contact with the stabilizer bars, but it is a still certainly a better choice than ABS clips pressed into the plate like the original F's. Moral... the jury is out on this until we know how many plates we are really needing to process.

EDIT: While discussing decision points, I am reaching out to I$ to see if we can not only turn the PCB into a .1 pitch connection, but also if we can have the producer pre-attach header pins at some cost (assuming the connection remains reliable), vs the need to solder cable. This would DRAMATICALLY save time processing these boards and potentially produce a more stable result (an IDE cable connector would just slip on if we could find one with the appropriate number of pins). He knows more about that world than I, so we will wait feeback. Following is an example of a header pin for those that might not know
Spoiler:
Image
SECOND EDIT:
pyrelink wrote: What will be the solution for the space bar stabilizer barrels? Would they just be ordered from a shapeways type of thing, or would we be trying to get them made out of ABS or similar plastic?
My prints out of Acrylate from Shapeways are working nicely (SLIGHTLY more abrasive than ABS, but you guys are making me OCD with this "sound" stuff now :) ). But the material is a little brittle (WAY more than ABS), and based on how bad they did with the with my latest batch, I struggle to trust them with something like this. If someone knows an ABS print shop capable of EXTREME detail, I would certainly be up for giving them a try. The only ones I know of can't print in enough detail to get what we need
Last edited by lot_lizard on 09 Jul 2016, 04:41, edited 4 times in total.

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elecplus

08 Jul 2016, 21:42

IDE hdd to motherboard cables are available in massive quantities from the recylers, for about $1 per pound. They will be used, but are usually in very good shape. Length will vary from a few inches to more than 12" though, so this might not be a good answer.

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lot_lizard

08 Jul 2016, 21:57

elecplus wrote: IDE hdd to motherboard cables are available in massive quantities from the recylers, for about $1 per pound. They will be used, but are usually in very good shape. Length will vary from a few inches to more than 12" though, so this might not be a good answer.
Good to know. We could always shorten the cables if needed, and add our own connectors too. I haven't spent too much time looking, but assuming the header pins are female on the PCB/controller (opposite of what I think we would want), something like this could work as well male connector cable. We some searching though, we should be able to find the inverse (female cable connector with male headers), which would be ideal. All of this assumes that I$ thinks it makes sense. We want reliability first, and this capsense stuff gets tricky when you change path lengths

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Techno Trousers
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08 Jul 2016, 22:09

The 40-pin IDE cables with three female connectors are the ones we'll probably be able to find for a dime a dozen at recyclers. If 40-pin male IDE headers and these types of cables can be used, it would make assembly a snap for sure.
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Techno Trousers
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08 Jul 2016, 22:16

Actually cables like these might even be better than the recycled ones. Two connectors, and just 8" long, versus the 20-30" of the old IDE hard drive cables.
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lot_lizard

08 Jul 2016, 23:03

Techno Trousers wrote: Actually cables like these might even be better than the recycled ones. Two connectors, and just 8" long, versus the 20-30" of the old IDE hard drive cables.
Cheap 30 pin variety with female connectors at ~75-100mm (3-4 inch) would be the goal. We will only need 30, and would be nice to not have 10 pins hanging off the side (standard IDE is 40). Appreciate the research. Something like I posted before is very close, but I believe the opposite of the connector we want. Female connectors on the cable would be the goal. Again... assuming I$ likes this approach. It might prove instable, and that is not ideal. Soldering also is not ideal in bulk, so we will wait and see his thoughts.

EDIT: The following is a link to the smaller wWhatsit project from wcass. He has made this into a form factor that would be a direct drop-in replacement for the standard M controller. Assuming the pitch/connector issues are worked out, it would be our desired controller. Both the PCB and controller will need to be modified to support stacked pins for the connector (2 rows at .1 pitch per column to make this work)
workshop-f7/a-smaller-xwhatsit-t13479.h ... 20xwhatsit
Last edited by lot_lizard on 08 Jul 2016, 23:36, edited 1 time in total.

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elecplus

08 Jul 2016, 23:29

Digikey has these standard in 6" or 2" length; qty 250 for abt 88 cents each. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... h-3006g-nd They can make them any length you want, any qty you want. 1 day lead time. The make them in house.

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lot_lizard

09 Jul 2016, 01:15

elecplus wrote: Digikey has these standard in 6" or 2" length; qty 250 for abt 88 cents each. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... h-3006g-nd They can make them any length you want, any qty you want. 1 day lead time. The make them in house.
That's the one... Price is nice as well. We'll see what I$ comes back with, but that is very promising

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lot_lizard

09 Jul 2016, 11:16

Thanks everyone for participating in the color options poll. Assuming 100-200 eventual Phase 1 boards in the group buy (wild guess, but the best I have at the moment), and that each of you picked ~4 choices, the sample survey has 18% margin of error with 95% confidence. Certainly good enough to have discussions with our powder coating friends to verify pricing
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lot_lizard

09 Jul 2016, 11:24

Created a new poll to understand the percentages of needing switches and wanting assembly. I realize you might want combinations of these if you ordered more than one drop-in, but our polls are pretty primitive to capture all these ala-carte ordering options. Just pick what you think best captures you without over thinking it :)

These costs will fluctuate, but this is a fairly educated guess.

Switches will be reserved in priority for club members, and if extras, made available to the general population. Make your selection assuming there is availability (I want to know if we might need more)

EDIT: Assume this base drop-in "kit" includes all the parts needed with the exception of the switches (barrels/flippers). Any work other than soldering (which we might be able to avoid if the header pins work out), would be handled as part of production. This would include things like pre-bending the PCB, etc.

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Techno Trousers
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09 Jul 2016, 19:05

FWIW, I voted for "bring your own switches" for phase 1, but I'd like to use newly built barrels/springs/flippers for phase 2. So don't take my vote as a sign of weak support for creating our own switches later.

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lot_lizard

09 Jul 2016, 19:25

Back to the color options, and I'll leave it alone for a while. The stainless is going to naturally cost a little bit more, but I think I would like to do a finite number of them (less than what would be desired based on polling), and have them nicely finished with maybe some engraving as part of a Limited Edition run. There are a few folks that contributed (both through actions and thoughts) that we would give first right of refusal to, and then maybe "lottery" the remaining off via a random drawing (maybe giving a weight to club members).

Naturally over time these would be more coveted (assuming this is all successful :) ). Not trying to be silly, but put some fun touches into this where can without really impacting cost.

Maybe it's our duck etched with a "Limited Edition" tag and the unique number in the edition.

EDIT: And it comes with a Duck WCass badge, but they are only available with the Limited Edition? Silly stuff like that to make it a little more interesting. I appreciate what others have done (like packaging), but would prefer to focus touches on the board itself. Ideas and thoughts welcome...

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pyrelink

09 Jul 2016, 21:33

In my opinion, this is an incredibly special project, and one that I am sure quite a few of us here have been wishing for, for quite a long time now. Of all projects I think this one absolutely deserves the silliness of limited editions, and etchings and the like.

I voted for switches in the poll, it would make life a lot easier having all the parts allocated instead of having to source a few more pieces and take apart an XT. I originally would have voted for standalone, no switches, but I have come around. I will still probably order the FEXT drop in replacement bare bones though, as I don't even have a full size M to use it with currently!


I am sure this has been answered before, but are we going to be using Wcass's new Smaller xWhatsit for this project, or will we be using the OG xWhatsit converters? I imagine we will get new ones produced for this buy, and I don't need to go and source one?

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lot_lizard

09 Jul 2016, 23:50

pyrelink wrote: I am sure this has been answered before, but are we going to be using Wcass's new Smaller xWhatsit for this project, or will we be using the OG xWhatsit converters? I imagine we will get new ones produced for this buy, and I don't need to go and source one?
Right... Let me see if I can find the link (from one of the I$ threads), but WCass actually took that same mini xWhatsit, and made the board the same form factor as the previous M controller (which is perfect in my mind). We will make a group buy for them and all the PCB's we need at some point. Ideally also, we change both the new controller and PCB to use .05 pitch cable with .1 pitch stacked header pins as connectors. Then we can use the ribbon cable that Cindy found a few posts ago and avoid any soldering ourselves. This is all speculation until designed and tested though... but certainly ideal.


Appreciate the feedback btw

EDIT: Looked again for the post from wcass, this is it: group-buys-f50/fssk-pcbs-t13042-30.html#p305229
I know that I$ wanted to move the connector to the top of the board, but as mentioned above, it would be ideal if we could make it a two row .1 pitch to allow for quick detach ribbon cables using header pins.

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lot_lizard

10 Jul 2016, 05:41

I have a PM into webwit for use in general, as well as a request for a cleaner svg image of the duck itself, but an idea to start with. Uses our Melbourne font with modified font spacing. Again, this would be etched into the stainless steel backplate as part of the limited run. Pay no attention to the "of 15" part. I have no idea how many we would make just yet. Like or meh?!?

I have another "edition" idea, but have a PM into someone to make sure they like the idea of using it to represent their project before I announce anything. I like the idea of it as well though

EDIT: Webwit approved. Cleaned up "the duck" using the SVG version. Thanks for sending Pyrelink
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Techno Trousers
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10 Jul 2016, 05:55

I like the limited edition idea! Why should the Korean customs get all the limited edition hype?

Back to the inner label for a moment. I had some time to work tonight, and came up with an idea for a logo on the inner label. What do we think of this one? Also, I managed to get all of the extra text into the barcode, but as you can see, we're pretty much at max size now. That's not too shabby, considering that it's encoding 834 bytes!
InnerAssembly_v4Sample.jpg
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pyrelink

10 Jul 2016, 06:02

Good to know, about the Wcass modified controller. Would be really convenient having it the same dimensions of the original controller. I also could have looked a few posts up at your edit for the answer to that one :D

Love the limited edition logo! If I am not mistaken that duck in the logo was actually made by Matt3o for his Granite set. We used the same logo for some smashing keycaps a couple years ago: vendors-f52/honey-sphericals-extras-t8123.html

EDIT: I also have a good svg file of the duck, that was sent by Facetsesame to SP, if needed. I would like to obtain permissions for use and all of that first though.
Last edited by pyrelink on 10 Jul 2016, 06:11, edited 1 time in total.

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lot_lizard

10 Jul 2016, 06:10

Techno Trousers wrote: Back to the inner label for a moment. I had some time to work tonight, and came up with an idea for a logo on the inner label. What do we think of this one? Also, I managed to get all of the extra text into the barcode, but as you can see, we're pretty much at max size now. That's not too shabby, considering that it's encoding 834 bytes!]
Love... fantastic job. The buckling spring graphic is clever as well (unless we hear back from i$ with some logo he provides, and then we would substitute). The ONLY thing I might do would give a little more spacing on the two lines that are hand signed/stamped. Maybe bring them down as much as you can while still remaining symmetrically balanced? If you thought it was too tight no matter what you did, it might make sense to combine them as "Assembled" and let the person doing add both as they see fit (I personally like the two separate lines). That is your call. I would have to print it out to really get a feel. Also, your message in the PDF417 is perfect

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lot_lizard

10 Jul 2016, 06:15

pyrelink wrote: Love the limited edition logo! If I am not mistaken that duck in the logo was actually made by Matt3o for his Granite set. We used the same logo for some smashing keycaps a couple years ago: vendors-f52/honey-sphericals-extras-t8123.html

EDIT: I also have a good svg file of the duck, that was sent by Facetsesame to SP, if needed. I would like to obtain permissions for use and all of that first though.
This is the one I grabbed group-buys-f50/granite-set-100-pbt-dye- ... ck#p159555, but would like the svg if possible.

I have sent something to webwit "the duck" to get his thoughts, and will wait to get permission. If you think we need from others (not sure where this originated really), I would appreciate help running that down

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lot_lizard

10 Jul 2016, 11:32

I was reading back through some of the things we initially wanted to (those OP's really need updates... One day), and had completely forgotten about the LED underlay for the SSKs. If someone wanted to chew on that a bit, and come up with some ideas (specifically the LED's we should use, their dimensions, and how they should be secured)? Maxx (Phosphorglow) is already doing this with legacy M SSK's, but this would take a bit of a redesign with the different barrel frame. I included some images below of his approach which is excellent. The reason I even bring up now... If we knew how it should work (remember there is room for wires sandwiched in the "foam layer"), I could go ahead and add the LED cutouts in the top plate for capslock, scrolllock, and numlock to support the future LED. The last picture in the spoiler shows the LED poking up through for capslock

Image
Spoiler:
ImageImage

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Techno Trousers
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10 Jul 2016, 16:46

I like the LED idea. I even like it for caps lock on an FEXT (would be fantastic for terminal keyboard conversions and 1390120)! This makes me want to buy some extra caps lock keys from Unicomp and see if I can make a "light tunnel" in them with a dremel and some clear plastic.

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with scroll lock/num lock LEDs these days.

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Techno Trousers
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10 Jul 2016, 16:53

I have made some final tweaks to the inner label. I think this addresses all feedback, so we'll call it the final version, unless idollar comes back with a new logo, which I'll then happily incorporate.

I've attached both docx and odt formats for the labels, so they should be printable on most systems.
InnerLabel_final_bs_logo.jpg
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lot_lizard

10 Jul 2016, 17:27

Webwit approval received for the "limited edition" logo above. Cleaned up the duck with the SVG that Pyrelink sent, and updated the previous post.

The other "edition" I mentioned before also received approval, so will share the concept (design still needed). In honor of all WCass's work to pave this type of effort through his XTant project, we are going to have an XTant tribute. Think some vinyl die cut sticker on the back of the back plate with "XTant 2: Still XTant" (WCass dubbed... And I love) with some logo honoring the original labels he sent out with XTant. This edition would have a red top plate and black backplate (seems fitting ;) ). If someone wants to take on that design, let us know. Otherwise I'll dork with after publishing the plan updates (promised I would, and have been dragging)
Techno Trousers wrote: I have made some final tweaks to the inner label. I think this addresses all feedback, so we'll call it the final version, unless idollar comes back with a new logo, which I'll then happily incorporate.
Excellent. Thanks again for your efforts
Techno Trousers wrote: I even like it for caps lock on an FEXT (would be fantastic for terminal keyboard conversions and 1390120)!
...
Personally, I wouldn't even bother with scroll lock/num lock LEDs these days.
Good point. Forgot about the terminal full sizes. And I agree on the num/scroll locks. One of those "add because you should" vs "add because you need" deals. If we have for one key, adding for n+whatever becomes trivial with these OpenSCAD modules.


Which actually brings up a even more interesting point. Should we have the LED cutouts for every barrel just in case someone wants to add an LED underlay for the whole board someday? It would actually be even less effort on my part to say "do all" in the code (though either approach of all or subset would be trivial). Not sure it's something I would ever do to mine, but it's interesting

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seebart
Offtopicthority Instigator

10 Jul 2016, 17:31

Oh good work on that label Techno Trousers! Looks very professional. The giant duck logo is crazy though. :? :lol:

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lot_lizard

10 Jul 2016, 17:39

seebart wrote: Oh good work on that label Techno Trousers! Looks very professional. The giant duck logo is crazy though. :? :lol:
Let me know if you think I should shrink it up. It looks ENORMOUS in the previous post, but the total size would be maybe 40mm tall (including both lines of text) etched into the backplate (about 20% the size it likely is on your screen). If a simple rendering would help to see scale, let me know.


EDIT: Added because I wanted to see myself. This would be 40mm, and again, only the Limited Edition stainless one would have the duck. Otherwise the label from Techno Trouser would be centered. This is an SSK btw for scale. The label and etching would remain the same size on the 101-key
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