Has anyone here tried using these switches in a custom build? I would suppose that the pins would be non-standard, and I think they are PCB-mounted. Perhaps the only way to do this would be to use the PCB from the "laptop" and reverse-engineer a way to convert it to USB.
Alps Appreciation
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
I acquired a Toshiba T1200 and harvested the beautiful thick doubleshot Alps-mount keycaps. The switches are some sort of Alps-mount linear with white sliders and no Alps branding on the housing. I think they are the same as those described in a post by webwit:
photos-f62/toshiba-t1200-minitouch-t4656.html
Has anyone here tried using these switches in a custom build? I would suppose that the pins would be non-standard, and I think they are PCB-mounted. Perhaps the only way to do this would be to use the PCB from the "laptop" and reverse-engineer a way to convert it to USB.
Spoiler:
Has anyone here tried using these switches in a custom build? I would suppose that the pins would be non-standard, and I think they are PCB-mounted. Perhaps the only way to do this would be to use the PCB from the "laptop" and reverse-engineer a way to convert it to USB.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
They're the Alps octagonal switch, I think they're called common mount low profile or something now. They're known from Zenith numpads. Don't think anyone's done anything with them.Hypersphere wrote: ↑I acquired a Toshiba T1200 and harvested the beautiful thick doubleshot Alps-mount keycaps. The switches are some sort of Alps-mount linear with white sliders and no Alps branding on the housing. I think they are the same as those described in a post by webwit:
photos-f62/toshiba-t1200-minitouch-t4656.htmlSpoiler:
Has anyone here tried using these switches in a custom build? I would suppose that the pins would be non-standard, and I think they are PCB-mounted. Perhaps the only way to do this would be to use the PCB from the "laptop" and reverse-engineer a way to convert it to USB.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Octagonal switch? Do you know why it is called the "octagonal switch"? It would be more fun if it were octahedral!
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
We've done this with them:Chyros wrote: ↑They're the Alps octagonal switch, I think they're called common mount low profile or something now. They're known from Zenith numpads. Don't think anyone's done anything with them.
wiki/Alps_common_mount_low_profile
"Octagonal" is the craziest name I've heard in along time.
Alps c.ommon m.ount l.ow p.rofile, how about Alps CMLP?
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Well, the switches are octagonal in shape :p .seebart wrote: ↑We've done this with them:Chyros wrote: ↑They're the Alps octagonal switch, I think they're called common mount low profile or something now. They're known from Zenith numpads. Don't think anyone's done anything with them.
wiki/Alps_common_mount_low_profile
"Octagonal" is the craziest name I've heard in along time.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Thanks for pointing this out. I hadn't taken notice of the clipped corners that do in fact make the shape of the switch housing appear octagonal when viewed from above. Let's see, if we consider the entire switch, what would be the name of the corresponding polyhedron?
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Then all other 839523 switches should just be "squares", "crosses", "circles" or "boxes" from now on.Chyros wrote: ↑Well, the switches are octagonal in shape :p .
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
"Alps Common-mount-low-profile" is just too long. The whole naming process is pretty strange anyhow. Do we even know what the real name? Is "Alps Common-mount-low-profile" the real name? I doubt "octagonal" is the real name.emdude wrote: ↑Shame there isn't anything conclusive to support the possible SKFN model name, it's a lot more convenient than Alps Common-mount-low-profile.
w/index.php?title=Alps_common_mount_low ... on=history21:00, 22 July 2013 Daniel beardsmore (Talk | contribs) . . (2,807 bytes) (+2,807) . . (Created with a provisional name so that it can be referenced internally from other pages)
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Exactly, I didn't come up with the octagonal name, that was just what it was referred to before xD . I still think it's a good name though, because I really can't think of any other switches with such a shape. Besides NOTHING can be worse than "Alps common mount low profile" .seebart wrote: ↑"Alps Common-mount-low-profile" is just too long. The whole naming process is pretty strange anyhow. Do we even know what the real name? Is "Alps Common-mount-low-profile" the real name? I doubt "octagonal" is the real name.emdude wrote: ↑Shame there isn't anything conclusive to support the possible SKFN model name, it's a lot more convenient than Alps Common-mount-low-profile.
w/index.php?title=Alps_common_mount_low ... on=history21:00, 22 July 2013 Daniel beardsmore (Talk | contribs) . . (2,807 bytes) (+2,807) . . (Created with a provisional name so that it can be referenced internally from other pages)
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Weren't they simply called "oval" Alps?Chyros wrote: ↑
I really can't think of any other switches with such a shape. Besides NOTHING can be worse than "Alps common mount low profile".
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Sorry, TL;DR
The link I clicked on was webwit's from 2012 which showed the ovals like I got on the laptop keyboard I once owned.
The link I clicked on was webwit's from 2012 which showed the ovals like I got on the laptop keyboard I once owned.
- keycap
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: '88 Model M, DFK777 SKCM Blue
- Main mouse: A paperclip and a string
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM, IBM buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Finally got around to restoring my Ortek MKB-84SX this week. Completely desoldered all the switches, cleaned and repainted the plate, soaked and cleaned every single switch, and gave the keycaps a bath in denture tabs. It took a while, but I didn't rush myself and I'm pretty happy with the end results. The switches now feel so much smoother, borderline mint condition. This is definitely going to be my main keyboard while I wait for my Apple M0116 to be restored.
Before its cleaning:
After its cleaning:
Apologies for the low image quality, I just threw this together at the last minute
Before its cleaning:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Uhh nice job on your Ortek MKB-84SX, I'd say that was well worth it! My M0116 I got from Nuum is in great shape but I need to lube the salmon SKCM's.keycap wrote: ↑Finally got around to restoring my Ortek MKB-84SX this week...
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@keycap: Nice job on the Ortek 84. I have one of those, and I was fortunate to find one in pristine condition. It is fun to type on.
- keycap
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: '88 Model M, DFK777 SKCM Blue
- Main mouse: A paperclip and a string
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM, IBM buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- emdude
- Model M Apologist
- DT Pro Member: 0160
Very nice seebart, I would say that the M0116 is one of my favorite keyboards at this point; the acoustics of the case makes the switches sound fantastic.
That and the compact layout is very nice (aside from the bottom row). I would very much like to pick up another one, with Orange Alps, in the future.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Agreed, but on the ISO version the tiny enter is insane, the way they stabilized that key is no good. That's the only thing I don't like about the M0116. I need to get an ANSI M0116. The size of the keyboard is brilliant and the Salmons are sweet even unlubed.emdude wrote: ↑That and the compact layout is very nice (aside from the bottom row). I would very much like to pick up another one, with Orange Alps, in the future.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@emdude: Just checked eBay, and there are currently two M0116 boards with orange Alps available. They are a bit pricey, however.
- elecplus
- Location: Kerrville, TX, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0082
- Contact:
I have 2 M0115 with orange Alps, and they are not pricey https://www.elecshopper.com/index.php/a ... board.html My M0116 has salmon Alps though.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Thanks, Cindy!
@seebart: The M0116 is one exception to my usual preference for ANSI over ISO. With the ISO version, I would probably remap as follows:
Backspace --> Backslash
U umlaut --> Left Bracket
+ --> Right Bracket
Return --> Backspace
O umlaut --> ;
A umlaut --> Single Quote
# --> Return
Up Arrow --> Fn
The "ANSI" version of this keyboard with the flipped L Return doesn't give me as many good options for remapping to a HHKB-like layout.
On the ISO version, which key is CapsLock? Is it a latched CapsLock?
@seebart: The M0116 is one exception to my usual preference for ANSI over ISO. With the ISO version, I would probably remap as follows:
Backspace --> Backslash
U umlaut --> Left Bracket
+ --> Right Bracket
Return --> Backspace
O umlaut --> ;
A umlaut --> Single Quote
# --> Return
Up Arrow --> Fn
The "ANSI" version of this keyboard with the flipped L Return doesn't give me as many good options for remapping to a HHKB-like layout.
On the ISO version, which key is CapsLock? Is it a latched CapsLock?
- emdude
- Model M Apologist
- DT Pro Member: 0160
The ISO versions of Apple boards were always weirder than their ANSI counterparts. The ISO AEK I/II is just bonkers though:seebart wrote: ↑Agreed, but on the ISO version the tiny enter is insane, the way they stabilized that key is no good. That's the only thing I don't like about the M0116. I need to get an ANSI M0116. The size of the keyboard is brilliant and the Salmons are sweet even unlubed.emdude wrote: ↑That and the compact layout is very nice (aside from the bottom row). I would very much like to pick up another one, with Orange Alps, in the future.
Hypersphere wrote: ↑@emdude: Just checked eBay, and there are currently two M0116 boards with orange Alps available. They are a bit pricey, however.
Thanks guys, I have been occasionally checking eBay for an SKCM Orange M0116 that is reasonably priced. I could just get one with Salmons and swap them for the loose Oranges I have, but I would rather not.elecplus wrote: ↑I have 2 M0115 with orange Alps, and they are not pricey https://www.elecshopper.com/index.php/a ... board.html My M0116 has salmon Alps though.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
OK interesting choices for remapping, I'll have to try that. Caps Lock is right above left shift, yes it is a latched grey Alps SKCL.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Thanks, Cindy!
@seebart: The M0116 is one exception to my usual preference for ANSI over ISO. With the ISO version, I would probably remap as follows:
Backspace --> Backslash
U umlaut --> Left Bracket
+ --> Right Bracket
Return --> Backspace
O umlaut --> ;
A umlaut --> Single Quote
# --> Return
Up Arrow --> Fn
The "ANSI" version of this keyboard with the flipped L Return doesn't give me as many good options for remapping to a HHKB-like layout.
On the ISO version, which key is CapsLock? Is it a latched CapsLock?
That's for sure, Apple made some strange decisions. They pulled the same wierdness with the M0110.
wiki/Apple_M0110
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@seebart: That latched CapsLock would not work for me -- this is where my Ctrl key would go. However, I recall seeing a way to remove the latching mechanism. Alternatively, I suppose the switch could be replaced with a standard Alps switch.
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
photos-f62/chzel-s-apple-pie-err-m0110-t10403.htmlHypersphere wrote: ↑@seebart: That latched CapsLock would not work for me -- this is where my Ctrl key would go. However, I recall seeing a way to remove the latching mechanism. Alternatively, I suppose the switch could be replaced with a standard Alps switch.
Check the last pick of my post! It's really easy! Keep in mind that if you replace the switch you need to mod the cap to fit.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
@chzel: Thanks! While there, I cast my vote -- another one for the Hasu converter.
On another matter, I could use some advice on how best to go about cleaning and repairing Alps switches, and theories that might explain how I finally got an unresponsive switch working again. I've posted this on GH as well.
Today I was testing a keycap on my recently refurbished Northgate Omnikey 101 with SKCM white Alps. I had put a "D" cap from an IBM 5140 on the D key, and then replaced it with the stock D cap. After doing this, the D key failed to register. All other keys registered just fine.
I pulled the cap and replaced it again to be sure it was seated properly. It still failed to register.
I then opened the switch, blew it out with canned air, put it back together, and still no joy.
Opened the switch again, cleaned the switch plate as best I could with 70% isopropyl alcohol, checked to be sure that the click leaf was not damaged in some way, reassembled, still no luck.
Opened the switch again and found that if I gently pushed the leaf on the switch plate toward the rear of the switch with a plastic spudger, the key would register. So I supposed that the problem was within the switch and not due to a broken PCB trace or bad solder joint. I tried gently pulling the leaf on the switch plate toward the front of the switch in an attempt to adjust the springiness, but the reassembled switch would still not register.
Finally, I replaced the slider, spring, and click leaf with the corresponding parts from a Matias Click switch and reassembled. Now the key registers. I am glad that this worked, but I do not know why it worked. Thoughts and suggestions welcome!
On another matter, I could use some advice on how best to go about cleaning and repairing Alps switches, and theories that might explain how I finally got an unresponsive switch working again. I've posted this on GH as well.
Today I was testing a keycap on my recently refurbished Northgate Omnikey 101 with SKCM white Alps. I had put a "D" cap from an IBM 5140 on the D key, and then replaced it with the stock D cap. After doing this, the D key failed to register. All other keys registered just fine.
I pulled the cap and replaced it again to be sure it was seated properly. It still failed to register.
I then opened the switch, blew it out with canned air, put it back together, and still no joy.
Opened the switch again, cleaned the switch plate as best I could with 70% isopropyl alcohol, checked to be sure that the click leaf was not damaged in some way, reassembled, still no luck.
Opened the switch again and found that if I gently pushed the leaf on the switch plate toward the rear of the switch with a plastic spudger, the key would register. So I supposed that the problem was within the switch and not due to a broken PCB trace or bad solder joint. I tried gently pulling the leaf on the switch plate toward the front of the switch in an attempt to adjust the springiness, but the reassembled switch would still not register.
Finally, I replaced the slider, spring, and click leaf with the corresponding parts from a Matias Click switch and reassembled. Now the key registers. I am glad that this worked, but I do not know why it worked. Thoughts and suggestions welcome!
- emdude
- Model M Apologist
- DT Pro Member: 0160
If it's the SKCL Lock switch that is being referred to here, then I believe that a simple slider/latching mechanism + switch top (and spring, if the weighting is different, I guess) swap will do the trick.Hypersphere wrote: ↑@seebart: That latched CapsLock would not work for me -- this is where my Ctrl key would go. However, I recall seeing a way to remove the latching mechanism. Alternatively, I suppose the switch could be replaced with a standard Alps switch.
Have you tried replacing the contact leaf itself?Hypersphere wrote: ↑@chzel: Thanks! While there, I cast my vote -- another one for the Hasu converter.
On another matter, I could use some advice on how best to go about cleaning and repairing Alps switches, and theories that might explain how I finally got an unresponsive switch working again. I've posted this on GH as well.
I did something silly the other day; I replaced the contact leaf of an SKCM Brown switch with its tactile leaf and removed the dummy switchplate entirely. The result was a tactile "SKCL", more tactile (if a bit clunkier) than an unmodded switch actually. However, it would not register, unfortunately.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Is it the type with the embossed dot on it or without?emdude wrote: ↑If it's the SKCL Lock switch that is being referred to here, then I believe that a simple slider/latching mechanism + switch top (and spring, if the weighting is different, I guess) swap will do the trick.Hypersphere wrote: ↑@seebart: That latched CapsLock would not work for me -- this is where my Ctrl key would go. However, I recall seeing a way to remove the latching mechanism. Alternatively, I suppose the switch could be replaced with a standard Alps switch.
Have you tried replacing the contact leaf itself?Hypersphere wrote: ↑@chzel: Thanks! While there, I cast my vote -- another one for the Hasu converter.
On another matter, I could use some advice on how best to go about cleaning and repairing Alps switches, and theories that might explain how I finally got an unresponsive switch working again. I've posted this on GH as well.
I did something silly the other day; I replaced the contact leaf of an SKCM Brown switch with its tactile leaf and removed the dummy switchplate entirely. The result was a tactile "SKCL", more tactile (if a bit clunkier) than an unmodded switch actually. However, it would not register, unfortunately.
- emdude
- Model M Apologist
- DT Pro Member: 0160
The contact leaf has the embossed dot, the tactile leaf does not. Thanks for asking that question, I never quite understood how the contact leaf + switchplate worked, even after reading the wiki article on the switch series, but I see now that the embossed dot presses the front-facing foil against the rear terminal. That must be why the tactile leaf cannot be used to actuate the switch.