(Model MF) Remodeling the Model M (aka.. the Mara)

[wcass]

You could go three color with dye-laser-dye-laser. The background color would be the combination of the cap color plus both dyes; area hit with the first laser would just be the cap color plus second dye; area hit by the second laser would be just the cap color.

[lot_lizard]

I'm wondering about the potentials here if there's a fill material of the right consistency that will also maintain a bond with the cap over a long period of time.

It would be a artistic/tricky endeavor, because you are double shotting in the reverse order. The only ways I could see a hobbyist do it would be using some vacuum sealer to put a membrane over the cap tops, and then come back and inject into the channels. Or something that was self leveling that you just injected free hand. If you used something that was isopropyl alcohol soluble, you could clean up excess pretty easy with either method. Certainly a lot of work regardless, but doable. I don't think durability would be an issue though no matter the approach.


To be honest though, I'm not sure it really buys you much over this method. If we could work out a process where we knew the dyes were durable that is. If that was solid, this method is certainly easier to net consistent crisp results in bulk.

Additional shot with natural lighting that captures color and texture better. It really does look nice in person

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[Techno Trousers]

Additional shot with natural lighting that captures color and texture better. It really does look nice in person

Beautiful! Interesting how all that great PBT texturing is gone in the large lasered areas. Is there a setting that would randomize the cut depth per pulse? If so, maybe a final re-texturing pass would be good when removing larger contiguous areas.

[lot_lizard]

Is there a setting that would randomize the cut depth per pulse? If so, maybe a final re-texturing pass would be good when removing larger contiguous areas.

It really won't be a setting in the laser itself. You would accomplish that type of effect with something similar to the following (versus all black). The power of the laser at a given point is controlled by the level of darkness of the image it is attempting to engrave

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[E TwentyNine]

The power of the laser at a given point is controlled by the level of darkness of the image it is attempting to engrave

Maybe someone could do a depth scan of a MF cap, convert that to a greyscale and use that as a mask.

Way, way, way overkill. But we are picky fuckers after all.

[Khers]

I heard AFMs are getting exceedingly cheap these days...

[lot_lizard]

On this vein... Assume we only do a MF novelty cap this first time around for Phase 1 (trial effort) for maybe 1-2 bucks a pop. What color combinations would we like to see? I will start a vote after you kick out some options. I realize we could order even a single cap from Unicomp, but we have to go through the dye process. I would only want to dye caps in bulk. Yell out some combinations that are interesting from the following. I have my own ideas, but won't taint. I would be willing to deeply engrave any cap color later (not two tone). This is asking for color options where dyes are used.

Cap colors are the dye

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Font colors are the Unicomp key cap

[Techno Trousers]

My vote is to start with brilliant white, then dye it with that awesome purple, a rich blue, or red. The bright white against any of those would really pop.

[drevyek]

414 Lilac, 417 Brilliant Blue, 410 Scarlet (or 413 Crimson) all with white text would look great.

[E TwentyNine]

Emerald/Green over a brilliant white base (to go with my brilliant white with green legends set).

Though I could see a nice silver grey over brilliant white for a full set in the future.

[wcass]

The test caps were iDye Poly (Black and Violet) on vintage pearl (early 1990s M122). Cap starter color should be as light as possible; white should give the most predictable end result. I would suggest that we stick with the iDye Poly as PBT is more like Polyester or Nylon than cotton or wool. Longer time in the dye results in deeper, darker, longer lasting color. I don't remember how long these were in, but the reds in my signature were about an hour at about 90C.

[lot_lizard]

Based on feedback, I don't even think we need a vote. It sounds like everyone is comfortable with "brilliant white" as a cap font. And for the dyes... I would like to make available the following (agreed with WCass... these are the poly dyes)

• 448 - Orange
• 449 - Red
• 450 - Violet
• 452 - Green
• 454 - Black
• 462 - Silver Gray

The blue is the one that is a bit "messy". It is a color we are picky about (as humans). I am not sure if the 451 - Blue will be too Royal, and am afraid the 459 - Turquoise is a bit too "Caribbean". That is the one in the unknown. I plan to dye until no further pigment is available (saturation) for each.

[fohat]

I am not sure if the 451 - Blue will be too Royal,

I think it is the only rational choice, and that "Blue" will be one of your most popular colors.

When I paint or do something that needs a "strong pure" blue, my go-to is always "ultramarine" and a little white to lighten it up, if necessary, is seldom a problem. That 451 looks pretty close to what a "pure dark blue" would be to me.

[E TwentyNine]

Are the unicomp colored keys dyed via the raw material before forming or tossed in dye after they're formed?

I.e. are they etchable to reveal a base color? It's likely pearl if so, but could open up a few more options without the need to dye.

Would have the same question about the Fentek caps.

[lot_lizard]

Are the unicomp colored keys dyed via the raw material before forming or tossed in dye after they're formed?

You really can't dye to get a lighter color. I can only assume the PBT pellets they use are the end result color (ie... uniform throughout). Even if they aren't, they would be brilliant white (our desire) as a base

[snoopy]

maybe I'm too late, but I think 421 Kelly Green also looks really good

[Techno Trousers]

Is it worth it to test the two blues, to see how they come out?

[E TwentyNine]

Are the unicomp colored keys dyed via the raw material before forming or tossed in dye after they're formed?

You really can't dye to get a lighter color. I can only assume the PBT pellets they use are the end result color (ie... uniform throughout). Even if they aren't, they would be brilliant white (our desire) as a base

No "really" about it, can't be done. I was purely thinking of the dark green, forgot about the lighter options. I have to think the source is colored, unless they've been sitting on brilliant white all these years and only got around to releasing it a short while back.

[E TwentyNine]

maybe I'm too late, but I think 421 Kelly Green also looks really good

I've seen RIT Kelly Green in person, and it's too yellowish. Don't like it.

[wcass]

I think Blue (451) will probably look really nice. Some bit of the background will be part of the end color. For the same reason, you might try Crimson (457).

I dyed a set of printed bright white caps Red a while back and the color came out lighter than my 5 year old RIT dyed batch and was splotchy. I suspect Unicomp may have treated them with something that would wear off with use (maybe just mold release). You might want to rinse them with a stronger solvent than alcohol before dying. All three of these were in the same batch.

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[lot_lizard]

I think Blue (451) will probably look really nice. Some bit of the background will be part of the end color. For the same reason, you might try Crimson (457).

The blue choice echos intuition. I will follow the same lead on the red (stands to reason).

I suspect Unicomp may have treated them with something that would wear off with use (maybe just mold release). You might want to rinse them with a stronger solvent than alcohol before dying. All three of these were in the same batch.

wow that is surprising. I might give them a full blown chemical bath in the parts cleaner then. I know it won't hurt PBT, and is more effective than any ultrasound cleaner

[lot_lizard]

Finally dialed in the settings for the coplyester (thanks Wodan for the initial settings lead). I ended up reversing the image for the propaganda, and adjusting some speed/heat/fan settings, but the end result is really good (FINALLY). Let production begin. Thanks andrewjoy for the material tip. This filament (PET) is much more resilient than the PLA (though tougher off the spool to make "work")

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[regack]

Finally dialed in the settings for the coplyester ...

That piece looks fantastic.

[lot_lizard]

Work has gotten in the way of progress, but I did come home to our first batch run on the printer. Small cleanup all the way around on the pieces (was expected), but glad it wasn't an unattended plastic "ball of mess". I've ordered a few poly dyes, and have some test pieces to try color matching to the standard case (should be pretty easy) and the industrial case (expected to be difficult)

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[Techno Trousers]

As an owner of an industrial case (thanks to Unicomp), I say just get the color reasonably close and that'll be fine. It's going to be tucked out of the way in the back anyway, so no use wasting a lot of money and time trying for a perfect color match.

[fohat]

As an owner of an industrial case (thanks to Unicomp), I say just get the color reasonably close and that'll be fine. It's going to be tucked out of the way in the back anyway, so no use wasting a lot of money and time trying for a perfect color match.

Same here. My real concern is getting my Dremel work right when cutting off those tabs to fit in a full bottom row.

[snoopy]

As an owner of an industrial case (thanks to Unicomp), I say just get the color reasonably close and that'll be fine. It's going to be tucked out of the way in the back anyway, so no use wasting a lot of money and time trying for a perfect color match.

same here. or just make it black for the industrial? black looks always good in combination with the industrial color

[chzel]

I like black as an option as well! I suppose most of us will use a black USB cable anyway, so it will match!

[vsev]

+1 !

[fohat]

I suppose most of us will use a black USB cable anyway, so it will match!

I hadn't thought of that. I was looking at my (large) bag of USB A-B cables yesterday, and although I have a lot of colors, even including translucent green, red, and purple, I don't actually have anything that is closer to "industrial" than dark gray.