ISO50 -- an ISO-inspired 50% keyboard
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Edit: The original post is about the handwired ISO50. There is a PCB version of the keyboard; see below. Links to fabrication files for either version are listed here.
After a few fruitful weeks of lurking, I think it's time to show what's come out of it.
While I like typing on the DASK3 I've been using for the past seven years, I find the voluminous tumours keyboards came to suffer from since their invention rather annoying. The Pok3r dissolves those swellings very nicely only to render itself useless (to me) by means of its "programmability" which involves putting a no-op "Pn" key where my muscle memory expects something else.
I would have definitely bought a MiniVan if English was my main language, but my native alphabet needs a few additional keys if not going mad is a requirement. Here is my attempt to build something of comparable beauty.
Modifications to hasu's TMK firmware and everything necessary to manufacture the hardware parts can be found at https://github.com/trebb/iso50 under an open-source licence.
Symmetry!
The whole thing weighs 600 g. With aluminium plates instead of steel, it would be 400 g.
As boring as possible: the layout
The navigation layer is inspired by the Pok3r; the mouse emulation layer comes from hasu's hhkb keymap.
Parts of the non-existing number row of the Alt Gr layer have been merged into the existing keys; the rest of the Alt Gr layer is standard. This part of the layout is probably a bit language dependent. Here, TZUIOP have non-standard bindings that are usually found in the number row.
Bottom
No visible screws. Non-rectangular foot arrangement precludes wobbling.
Gateron PBT keycaps, Cherry profile
In terms of a standard keyboard, only keys from space bar row, bottom row, home row and tab row are used. There are lots of uniform leftovers from the number row and function row.
Preparing the switches
Putting the diodes into the switches saves some space and improves insulation and mechanical stability.
Preparing the switches
Diodes shouldn't be completely naked if in close proximity to their LED cousins.
Switches in place
Some hot glue will be needed due to the poor quality of the laser cutting.
The two white dots denote switches with flipped diodes.
Shoehorning the Teensy onto the switches
Some of the holes and pins are off by half a raster step.
Spaghetti
Minimizing height
Nothing should exceed the height of the plastic parts of the switches. Clearance between plates is 6.3 mm.
Reset hole (top left); strain relief cable strap (centre right).
The stabilized enter key couldn't be divided up as standard key sets lack a 1.25u home row key.
The most expensive part of the project has arrived.
https://www.shapeways.com/model/3dtools ... fd8e4e31ed
In total, parts were about 140 € (key caps excluded).
The insulating layer on the bottom plate has been cut from a sheet of transparency.
The 3D print could probably be replaced by a nice wooden frame.
Using a stepped Tab key (CapsLock on other keyboards) improves symmetry and leaves a bit more room for the controller.
Kink protection
To replace the cable, a new cable strap is needed and a knife to trim the USB mini plug.
Initiating firmware flash
Specialized tool required.
Comparing heights: Pok3r
Comparing heights: DASK3
Das Keyboard uses up 345 % of the ISO50's desk space.
Comparing heights: a popular rubber dome keyboard
The Novatouch TKL needs a bit more than twice the desk space of the ISO50.
The ISO50 lacks a number row
But, given appropriate equipment, one can type digits nonetheless.
The ISO50 next to a shoe
Presenting its NumLock and CapsLock LEDs. ScrollLock is off, but does exist.
After a few fruitful weeks of lurking, I think it's time to show what's come out of it.
While I like typing on the DASK3 I've been using for the past seven years, I find the voluminous tumours keyboards came to suffer from since their invention rather annoying. The Pok3r dissolves those swellings very nicely only to render itself useless (to me) by means of its "programmability" which involves putting a no-op "Pn" key where my muscle memory expects something else.
I would have definitely bought a MiniVan if English was my main language, but my native alphabet needs a few additional keys if not going mad is a requirement. Here is my attempt to build something of comparable beauty.
Modifications to hasu's TMK firmware and everything necessary to manufacture the hardware parts can be found at https://github.com/trebb/iso50 under an open-source licence.
Symmetry!
The whole thing weighs 600 g. With aluminium plates instead of steel, it would be 400 g.
As boring as possible: the layout
The navigation layer is inspired by the Pok3r; the mouse emulation layer comes from hasu's hhkb keymap.
Parts of the non-existing number row of the Alt Gr layer have been merged into the existing keys; the rest of the Alt Gr layer is standard. This part of the layout is probably a bit language dependent. Here, TZUIOP have non-standard bindings that are usually found in the number row.
Bottom
No visible screws. Non-rectangular foot arrangement precludes wobbling.
Gateron PBT keycaps, Cherry profile
In terms of a standard keyboard, only keys from space bar row, bottom row, home row and tab row are used. There are lots of uniform leftovers from the number row and function row.
Preparing the switches
Putting the diodes into the switches saves some space and improves insulation and mechanical stability.
Preparing the switches
Diodes shouldn't be completely naked if in close proximity to their LED cousins.
Switches in place
Some hot glue will be needed due to the poor quality of the laser cutting.
The two white dots denote switches with flipped diodes.
Shoehorning the Teensy onto the switches
Some of the holes and pins are off by half a raster step.
Spaghetti
Minimizing height
Nothing should exceed the height of the plastic parts of the switches. Clearance between plates is 6.3 mm.
Reset hole (top left); strain relief cable strap (centre right).
The stabilized enter key couldn't be divided up as standard key sets lack a 1.25u home row key.
The most expensive part of the project has arrived.
https://www.shapeways.com/model/3dtools ... fd8e4e31ed
In total, parts were about 140 € (key caps excluded).
The insulating layer on the bottom plate has been cut from a sheet of transparency.
The 3D print could probably be replaced by a nice wooden frame.
Using a stepped Tab key (CapsLock on other keyboards) improves symmetry and leaves a bit more room for the controller.
Kink protection
To replace the cable, a new cable strap is needed and a knife to trim the USB mini plug.
Initiating firmware flash
Specialized tool required.
Comparing heights: Pok3r
Comparing heights: DASK3
Das Keyboard uses up 345 % of the ISO50's desk space.
Comparing heights: a popular rubber dome keyboard
The Novatouch TKL needs a bit more than twice the desk space of the ISO50.
The ISO50 lacks a number row
But, given appropriate equipment, one can type digits nonetheless.
The ISO50 next to a shoe
Presenting its NumLock and CapsLock LEDs. ScrollLock is off, but does exist.
Last edited by trebb on 20 Nov 2016, 18:58, edited 3 times in total.
-
- Location: Seville, Spain
- Main keyboard: SSK,Novatouch
- Main mouse: Logitech M510, Slimblade
- Favorite switch: blucking spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
What a great keyboard!
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Building takes the best part of a day. Planning took a couple of weeks, but it involved wrapping my head around most of the technology involved.t!ng wrote: ↑So cool... how long did it take to plan and build?
I'd love to have Backspace above Enter, but I'm not sure how to do it with keys from a standard set.I would switch Enter and Backspace key though - for more symmetry.
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
ISO50 (PCB version)
Preview:
Finally, I've come up with a design that looked sufficiently like a PCB. I ordered everything and started assembling the board. Trying to solder the IC, I ended up with this:Ok, that's not going to work. The correct (QFN) package fortunately seemed to match my PCB footprint.It took two attempts to place the tiny thing without shorts.
I wasn't entirely sure if I needed a programmer at all, but the legless variant of the Atmega32u4 comes completely empty, lacking the USB bootloader. Installing one and setting the fuses went surprisingly smoothly.
Due to the coarse tolerances of the laser cutter, the steel top plate of the handwired ISO50 required lots of hot glue to become usable. The experimental top plate shown below is actually a 1.6 mm PCB. The PCB proper is 0.6 mm and the bottom plate is 1.5 mm steel. Each of them was about 5 € plus VAT and shipping.
The PCB-style top plate seems to work quite well.
Diodes go into the switches as with the handwired ISO50, but this time without unclipping the switch tops. You can just push them through.
Still missing: 3D-printed frame and standoffs.
The finished product will be as thin as is possible for a keyboard with Cherry MX-style switches.
Preview:
Finally, I've come up with a design that looked sufficiently like a PCB. I ordered everything and started assembling the board. Trying to solder the IC, I ended up with this:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
I wasn't entirely sure if I needed a programmer at all, but the legless variant of the Atmega32u4 comes completely empty, lacking the USB bootloader. Installing one and setting the fuses went surprisingly smoothly.
Spoiler:
The PCB-style top plate seems to work quite well.
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Last edited by trebb on 12 Nov 2016, 15:21, edited 1 time in total.
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Ordered the 3D-printed part of the casing. It is a bit cheaper than the hand-wired version due to its reduced height.
The ISO50 now has an official VID/PID USB identifier, thanks to http://pid.codes/.
Here are a few resources I found useful for this project:
Keyboard-Layout-Editor
GH60 (PCB example)
ALPS64 (PCB example)
Open-Source ATMEGA32U4 breakout board (PCB example)
THKB (similar project)
How to solder QFN components
Overview on bootloaders
Flashing bootloaders on AVR
ATMEGA32U4 datasheet
How to build your very own keyboard firmware
TMK keyboard firmware (lots of examples and documentation)
The ISO50 now has an official VID/PID USB identifier, thanks to http://pid.codes/.
Here are a few resources I found useful for this project:
Keyboard-Layout-Editor
GH60 (PCB example)
ALPS64 (PCB example)
Open-Source ATMEGA32U4 breakout board (PCB example)
THKB (similar project)
How to solder QFN components
Overview on bootloaders
Flashing bootloaders on AVR
ATMEGA32U4 datasheet
How to build your very own keyboard firmware
TMK keyboard firmware (lots of examples and documentation)
- Phenix
- -p
- Location: Germany, Cologne
- Main keyboard: F122, soarer´d|Novatouch-s
- Main mouse: Roccat Kone Pure|Rollermouse
- Favorite switch: BS F|Topre-s
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for those resources.
Will there be support for switch top temoval+some others layouts as well? (if e g. split enter in two keys (more ANSI like)/different shift/bottom rows..)?
Will there be support for switch top temoval+some others layouts as well? (if e g. split enter in two keys (more ANSI like)/different shift/bottom rows..)?
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Switch-top removability could be achieved easily and I'm willing to accept contributions.Phenix wrote: ↑Will there be support for switch top temoval+some others layouts as well? (if e g. split enter in two keys (more ANSI like)/different shift/bottom rows..)?
There is no 1.25u non-bottom-row key available that could be part of a split Enter. One could imagine an ANSI Enter, thus sacrificing a home row key in favour of a new key in the outermost corner of the board. While this doesn't look like a smart move to me, long-term ANSI users may find it more comfortable this way and I would, again, accept and maintain contributions.
As to the physical bottom row layout, the PCB looks a bit crowded to my untrained eye, so any modifications of that kind would amount to a complete redesign. One possible exception would be replacing the five keys around the center by a 7u space bar.
- Phenix
- -p
- Location: Germany, Cologne
- Main keyboard: F122, soarer´d|Novatouch-s
- Main mouse: Roccat Kone Pure|Rollermouse
- Favorite switch: BS F|Topre-s
- DT Pro Member: -
I just mentioned it because the option to do so is always good (as long as it is not that hard to include.
I for myself would maybe try out.
For keycaps: most have some spare caps, eventough profiles arent 100% accurate..
I for myself would maybe try out.
For keycaps: most have some spare caps, eventough profiles arent 100% accurate..
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Standoffs in place:
The 3D print is made of Nylon; this time, it doesn't contain any aluminium powder.
The case parts were about 35 €.
Non-detachable, but easily replaceable cable.
Top and bottom:Apart from LEDs and reset button, the layout remains unchanged.
The PCB version next to a hand-wired ISO50. This one has been made of Alumide and shows the outcome of a dyeing experiment.
Done!
The 3D print is made of Nylon; this time, it doesn't contain any aluminium powder.
The case parts were about 35 €.
Non-detachable, but easily replaceable cable.
Top and bottom:Apart from LEDs and reset button, the layout remains unchanged.
The PCB version next to a hand-wired ISO50. This one has been made of Alumide and shows the outcome of a dyeing experiment.
Done!
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
For those who wish to build the thing while avoiding setup of the tool chain, here are the fabrication files.
- Top plate
Hand-wired version: DXF for laser cutting.
PCB version: DXF for laser cutting or Gerber files for a PCB-style top plate. - Bottom plate
Hand-wired version: DXF for laser cutting.
PCB version: DXF for laser cutting. - Frame for 3D printing
Hand-wired version: STL.
PCB version: STL. - PCB
Gerber files. - Firmware
(Should be usable for some languages and not for others as 12 AltGr layer keys are missing; contributions welcome.)
Hand-wired version: HEX file.
PCB version: HEX file. - Bottom label (SVG)
Spoiler:
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Here you are:Phenix wrote: ↑Could you also add the keymap file? (IIRC in .hex chaning layout is not possible, or?)
https://github.com/trebb/iso50/blob/mas ... ap_iso50.c
Using it involves compilation of TMK, so you probably want the rest of the modified files, too.
- suka
- frobiac
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: custom split ergonomic "RedTilt"
- Main mouse: IBM trackpoint
- Favorite switch: MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0046
Beautiful results and amazingly clean work you're showing!
But you know that for the ultimate flat board you can shave off 1.5mm of the MX center stem and use thin tape to prevent dust from creeping in, don't you ? Seriously; I can totally understand that obsession even though it is probably totally ridiculous - but hey, if the outcome is two such well done boards all is good!
But you know that for the ultimate flat board you can shave off 1.5mm of the MX center stem and use thin tape to prevent dust from creeping in, don't you ? Seriously; I can totally understand that obsession even though it is probably totally ridiculous - but hey, if the outcome is two such well done boards all is good!
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Thank you.suka wrote: ↑But you know that for the ultimate flat board you can shave off 1.5mm of the MX center stem and use thin tape to prevent dust from creeping in, don't you ?
And of course I couldn't resist to file off the bottom of a stem bearing, which seemed to have been the part the switch bottoms out with as it increased key travel by 0.6 mm.
- suka
- frobiac
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: custom split ergonomic "RedTilt"
- Main mouse: IBM trackpoint
- Favorite switch: MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0046
Just a warning: Filing could be a bad idea, as plastic dust will immediately get into the switch, and also rough inside edges of the resulting hole can lead to the switch stem locking up. Snipping them off with a good wire cutter is much safer and also fastertrebb wrote: And of course I couldn't resist to file off the bottom of a stem bearing, which seemed to have been the part the switch bottoms out with as it increased key travel by 0.6 mm.
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: ISO50
- Main mouse: Kensington SlimBlade
- Favorite switch: Gateron green
- DT Pro Member: -
Snipping off is indeed more elegant than filing, but I think I'd consider the switch destroyed after the treatment. More key travel means parts get hit that aren't designed to get hit, which can't be good.suka wrote: ↑Just a warning: Filing could be a bad idea, as plastic dust will immediately get into the switch, and also rough inside edges of the resulting hole can lead to the switch stem locking up. Snipping them off with a good wire cutter is much safer and also fastertrebb wrote: And of course I couldn't resist to file off the bottom of a stem bearing, which seemed to have been the part the switch bottoms out with as it increased key travel by 0.6 mm.
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- Location: Germany (RLP)
- Main keyboard: KBD8X MKII e-yellow w/ Laserons
- Main mouse: Roccat Kain 202 Aimo weiß
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX linear grey
- DT Pro Member: -
This keyboard is great! Since I saw this beauty for the first time I'm thinking of ordering the parts, so thanks to op for the files!
Who of you ordered a PCB, at which manufacturer and how much did it cost? Would it be possible to use a bigger space key and a detachable cable?
Who of you ordered a PCB, at which manufacturer and how much did it cost? Would it be possible to use a bigger space key and a detachable cable?
Last edited by ITX-Fan on 29 Jun 2022, 06:50, edited 1 time in total.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Necromancer achievement unlocked!
This thread sleeps with the fishes. Well, unless you woke it back up again. Could be worth a chance, I guess.
Spoiler:
-
- Location: Germany (RLP)
- Main keyboard: KBD8X MKII e-yellow w/ Laserons
- Main mouse: Roccat Kain 202 Aimo weiß
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX linear grey
- DT Pro Member: -
I am sorry not to have read and questioned it already in 2016... /s
What else could I do, instead of writing down here? Asking the OP via PM? Doesn't help anyone. Create a new thread and link it? Leads to confusion. Tbh, this accusation of picking over the bones is nonsense imho. Hope you have a great day.
What else could I do, instead of writing down here? Asking the OP via PM? Doesn't help anyone. Create a new thread and link it? Leads to confusion. Tbh, this accusation of picking over the bones is nonsense imho. Hope you have a great day.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
True. You’re not doing anything wrong, but the chances of a topic revival after 6 years are far from good. A bit of natural arcana skill and an existing familiarity with the undead may be helpful in your endeavour.
In your position I’d have probably done the same thing. One difference though: I’d mention the gulf of time at the start, so it’s clear to passers by this is not an active project… at least not yet.
In your position I’d have probably done the same thing. One difference though: I’d mention the gulf of time at the start, so it’s clear to passers by this is not an active project… at least not yet.