Thanks. I actually knew that -- i should have included the ZKB-2 and ZKB-2R along with the 163-73. Any others made by Zenith or any other company with this layout?mike52787 wrote: ↑The ZKB-2 and the ZKB-2r have the same layout.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Does anyone here know if there is any other Alps keyboard with a layout like that of the Zenith 163-73 with a 1.5u Right Brace and 1.75u bottom-row mods? (See the pic below from the DT wiki):
w/images/8/84/Zenith-163-73-Front.JPG
Alps Appreciation
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Are you referring to new PCBs, such as the Hasu Alps64 and ClueBoard for custom builds? It is also possible to desolder Matias-switch keyboards such as the KBP V60 or V80. Otherwise, for vintage Alps boards with SKCM/SKCL switches, there is a list in the DT wiki:qbadger wrote: ↑Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?
wiki/Category:Keyboards_with_Alps_SKCL/SKCM_switches
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
- Location: South-West Florida
- Main keyboard: G80-5000HAAUS
- Main mouse: Zowie EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Vintage MX Black
- DT Pro Member: 0166
Minivan (40%)qbadger wrote: ↑Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?
Alps64(60%)
Clueboard(68%)
Leeku L3 AlpHas (a87 TKL)
Leeku 1800 (early version)(1800 layout)
Leeku 3000 (early version)(ansi 101/103/104/ISO)
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
Zenith Z-150 (100-1886) question -- These are reported to come with either dye-sub PBT or doubleshot keycaps. Are there outward signs for determining this? I am thinking of online listings that do not show the underside of a pulled cap. I am reluctant to ask sellers who have not already pulled a cap on an Alps-switch board to do so -- the last time I did this, the seller ended up snapping off the cap with the stem embedded in the slider.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: hhkb
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks! So Minivan also supports both ALPS and MX switches.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
You can pretty easily tell from the yellowing, or if the shots are sharp enough from the contrast of the legends.Hypersphere wrote: ↑Zenith Z-150 (100-1886) question -- These are reported to come with either dye-sub PBT or doubleshot keycaps. Are there outward signs for determining this? I am thinking of online listings that do not show the underside of a pulled cap. I am reluctant to ask sellers who have not already pulled a cap on an Alps-switch board to do so -- the last time I did this, the seller ended up snapping off the cap with the stem embedded in the slider.
- PollandAkuma
- Location: London
- Main keyboard: keyboard
- Main mouse: mouse
- Favorite switch: switch
- DT Pro Member: -
Atreus too!qbadger wrote:Thanks! So Minivan also supports both ALPS and MX switches.
-
- Location: New Jersey
- Main keyboard: Ergodox
- Main mouse: Razer Naga
- Favorite switch: Box Jade
- DT Pro Member: -
@qbadger
Infinity Ergodox
Plank/Quark (Full set of Matias keycaps available)
Let's Split (Full set of Matias keycaps available and in GB now!)
The Monarch (Made with apple keycaps in mind)
Can all be added to the alps compatible list. Also I think Whitefox was compatible
Infinity Ergodox
Plank/Quark (Full set of Matias keycaps available)
Let's Split (Full set of Matias keycaps available and in GB now!)
The Monarch (Made with apple keycaps in mind)
Can all be added to the alps compatible list. Also I think Whitefox was compatible
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- Location: New Jersey
- Main keyboard: Ergodox
- Main mouse: Razer Naga
- Favorite switch: Box Jade
- DT Pro Member: -
@qbadger
Thats the one, You can buy either the Acrylic Switchplate, PCB, or both. It doesn't include Keycaps or Switches sort of like just buying a switchplate and PCB from OLKB.com for the Plank which is what the Let's Split was derived from. I think all switchplates that work with Cherry style switches should be able to hold Alps and Matias brand switches.
Out of curiosity why are you asking, then I/we can give you the answer you actually need.
Thats the one, You can buy either the Acrylic Switchplate, PCB, or both. It doesn't include Keycaps or Switches sort of like just buying a switchplate and PCB from OLKB.com for the Plank which is what the Let's Split was derived from. I think all switchplates that work with Cherry style switches should be able to hold Alps and Matias brand switches.
Out of curiosity why are you asking, then I/we can give you the answer you actually need.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: hhkb
- DT Pro Member: -
Well originally I was just curious about how easy it would be to swap out a MX switch with an Alps one - I'm in the M65A GB so thought to myself, "what do I need to swap out in order to use Alps switches instead of MX ones in the build?"
Now I highly doubt the PCB that's included in the GB would be compatible, but I'm wondering if the plate is also a problem (at the very least I will need to get some costar stabs?). I appreciate of course for planks the stabilised keys aren't an issue.
Now I highly doubt the PCB that's included in the GB would be compatible, but I'm wondering if the plate is also a problem (at the very least I will need to get some costar stabs?). I appreciate of course for planks the stabilised keys aren't an issue.
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
Remember that NTC I was talking about? Well... Didn't have luck... And the switches are filthy. Yuck...
- Attachments
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- received_1295924450445951.jpeg (121.33 KiB) Viewed 5861 times
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
But worn linear alps are worse than equally worn clicky/tactile alps, aren't they?Chyros wrote: ↑Yech. Probably best to linearise that =o /.
First.
Second:
Is this board rare with this badge?
NTC KB-6251EA
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
You mean, is the Cordata brand rare?
- Mattr567
- Location: Socal
- Main keyboard: Many things
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: Alps in general
- DT Pro Member: -
I've never seen that badge ever.
I'm sure the switches can come back. Take them apart and dust them, that will usually do it and if the top housings are still bad then you can wash/soak them in rubbing alcohol or soapy water. The irreparable damage comes when someone uses the switches when there like that. Coming from my old Taobao SKCL Green switches even after hours of work the top housings were still causing problems, the slider rail had physical damage/roughness. I think they got that way from use, the extra friction caused by all the contaminants permanently roughened the inside of the top housing. If they were never used the dust would be harmless, just sitting there.
- Hypersphere
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Silenced & Lubed HHKB (Black)
- Main mouse: Logitech G403
- Favorite switch: Topre 45/55g Silenced; Various Alps; IBM Model F
- DT Pro Member: 0038
There's at least one image of a Cordata keyboard out there, but I don't know if the internals are NTC KB-6251EA.
http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/cpthu ... f.jpg.html
http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/cpthu ... f.jpg.html
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
Well... It looks like...Hypersphere wrote: ↑There's at least one image of a Cordata keyboard out there, but I don't know if the internals are NTC KB-6251EA.
http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/cpthu ... f.jpg.html
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
I think I have a program for my birthday.
The datamini is a kb-5161pt.
The datamini is a kb-5161pt.
- Attachments
-
- DSC_0613.JPG (2.55 MiB) Viewed 5723 times
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
So it's done. I'm not that impressed with the resoults, it binds a bit, but the sound is not that bad. I'm gonna try lubing it sometime in the future.
- keycap
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: '88 Model M, DFK777 SKCM Blue
- Main mouse: A paperclip and a string
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM, IBM buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.
- Mattr567
- Location: Socal
- Main keyboard: Many things
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: Alps in general
- DT Pro Member: -
Uhhhhhhhhhhh so who got these? SKCL Brown or possibly SKCL Striped Amber.
There's none left btw, but there is a Tandem G80-1191HPU
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249215551
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249216954
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248410073
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248208848
There's none left btw, but there is a Tandem G80-1191HPU
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249215551
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249216954
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248410073
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248208848
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
They are clean, I've cleaned them with a soft toothbrush, under water (switch housing and slider). But they still bind, and are scratchy. So I have no other choice, but to lube.keycap wrote: ↑You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
From what we know Alps SKCM blue were lubed by default in production.keycap wrote: ↑You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.
- Lynx_Carpathica
- Location: Hungary
- Main keyboard: Apple Keyboard M0118
- Main mouse: ROG Sica
- Favorite switch: SKCM Salmon
- DT Pro Member: -
But White wasn't. And possible made of Polyoximethilen, rather than something that's not that slippery. So, they wouldn't need lube. But they get stuck without it.