CANADA ONLY - NMB RT-101+ w/ Space Invaders, NEW IN BOX *Limited Time*

[Harshmallow]

The tactility is due to the wedge in the slider passing through a set of bends in the contacts. The wedge has to pass back through these bends on the way up so it's tactile both ways. In this image from the wiki, the tactile contacts are on the left and linear/clicky on the right.

One of my problems with the tactile space invaders is the the upstroke tactility seems greater than the down stroke, to the point that travel noticeably slows on the upstroke, which feels a bit odd, like the switch isn't keeping up with your fingers.

Thanks for posting them photos - yeah I knew what was causing it after I took a look last night. I just wanted to point out that it felt strange. I know what you mean though...the tactility seems stronger on its way back up than down because of how it almost 'catches' if you let it up gradually. Typing at my normal speed it seems to become less of an issue but maybe that will change as the switches wear. It also feels lighter if I type only to actuation - just beyond the tactile point - instead of getting to the bottom of its travel, as it suddenly becomes quite a bit stiffer after the tactile point.

[Tuntematon]

This is a solid board indeed - Didn't realize it would be coming in its original box with serial number/mfg date label too!

I also got mine too and also didn't realize it was new. It's very nice.

You guys didn't read the fine bold, capitalized print

[Harshmallow]

This is a solid board indeed - Didn't realize it would be coming in its original box with serial number/mfg date label too!

I also got mine too and also didn't realize it was new. It's very nice.

You guys didn't read the fine bold, capitalized print

For some reason, I thought the 'IN BOX' would be another plain, brown inner box. I was pleasantly surprised I also almost got a birthday board as this one is just a few days away from mine, in a different year of course. I seem to end up with a lot of boards from May. BTW, since I have this beaut at work and I get to admire it throughout the day - I've noticed something. The dye subbed legends on mine almost seem to have a very slight yellowish halo around them on the lighter colored keys. I've read this can be a common error in dye sub printing, or maybe the lighting in my office is making me see things. Can age cause dye sub legends to do this or would it have been an issue from the original printing?

[Tuntematon]

The dye bleeding is something that can happen over time. I don't think it's a defect present at the time of manufacture, but I could be wrong. I'm not sure what causes it, but it's on all the boards in this batch. Obviously in this case, we can say that wear and UV exposure are not factors. Maybe something to do with the dye subbing process or the particular ink that was used?

[Harshmallow]

The dye bleeding is something that can happen over time. I don't think it's a defect present at the time of manufacture, but I could be wrong. I'm not sure what causes it, but it's on all the boards in this batch. Obviously in this case, we can say that wear and UV exposure are not factors. Maybe something to do with the dye subbing process or the particular ink that was used?

Ok so it's not just me seeing things! From what I've read (yeah, I tend to go down rabbit holes of research when bored at work), slight yellow or red auras like this could be from mal-adjusted printer nozzles, which shows up after applying the ink and heating. If it's on all our boards and they're all made in May '92, perhaps it's just a case of equipment that was wearing or was in need of maintenance/adjustment.

Either way, it's a minor thing for sure. I've only had this board at work for two days, but it's quickly growing on me - I love it! I want to get another one with the black clicky switches now to try that one out at home. The dye subbed PBT key caps with that perfect balance of smooth/textured surface with a solid and stylish case are wonderful. The case has just about zero flex - even when applying significant force - and doesn't have any squeaky bits or 'floating points' where there's often no support under the top case (like under the plastic bits between Ctrl and Alt). Am I correct in assuming the case is made out of PVC, like the model M? I can see some blurs in the plastic where they fused pieces together, which I've seen in M's before, but it's a minor cosmetic issue.

[fohat]

I want to get another one with the black clicky switches now

New-in-Box black NMB Hi-Tek? Good luck!

[Chyros]

The dye bleeding is something that can happen over time. I don't think it's a defect present at the time of manufacture, but I could be wrong. I'm not sure what causes it, but it's on all the boards in this batch. Obviously in this case, we can say that wear and UV exposure are not factors. Maybe something to do with the dye subbing process or the particular ink that was used?

Ok so it's not just me seeing things! From what I've read (yeah, I tend to go down rabbit holes of research when bored at work), slight yellow or red auras like this could be from mal-adjusted printer nozzles, which shows up after applying the ink and heating. If it's on all our boards and they're all made in May '92, perhaps it's just a case of equipment that was wearing or was in need of maintenance/adjustment.

Either way, it's a minor thing for sure. I've only had this board at work for two days, but it's quickly growing on me - I love it! I want to get another one with the black clicky switches now to try that one out at home. The dye subbed PBT key caps with that perfect balance of smooth/textured surface with a solid and stylish case are wonderful. The case has just about zero flex - even when applying significant force - and doesn't have any squeaky bits or 'floating points' where there's often no support under the top case (like under the plastic bits between Ctrl and Alt). Am I correct in assuming the case is made out of PVC, like the model M? I can see some blurs in the plastic where they fused pieces together, which I've seen in M's before, but it's a minor cosmetic issue.

I've seen dyesub bleeding on several boards, but some of the worst were on NMB Hi-Tek boards. One model in particular has been shown several times to bleed green and really badly, I think it was one of the more common ANSI models.

[Harshmallow]

I want to get another one with the black clicky switches now

New-in-Box black NMB Hi-Tek? Good luck!

Haha - I, good sir, am a realist. I did not say I expect to find another NIB one with just the switches I want, but wouldn't that be wonderful!?

Thanks Chyros - well then I am thankful this is a mild case of mellow-yellow on mine.

[Harshmallow]

This board looks familiar (No, it's definitely not mine)

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NIB-Vintage-NMB- ... Sww3tY3Ung