Alps Appreciation
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
[wiki]Acer KB-101A[/wiki] — long white (in blue Alps), with chips dating to 1987 (so 87–88 manufacture I guess).Mattr567 wrote: ↑So I opened one of the extra Green SKCC's I had laying around from my P77 mod, and I was shocked to discover that it had a tall white switchplate! :o
The chips on the PCB date it between 1983 and 1984. Kinda confused here :?: White plates were introduced around 1989, and SKCC was out by that point.
- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
Mixed up the caps a bit. First I tried dark green and black (red characters on the top row) but didn't care for that. So I went with dark blue and black. Don't know if the contrast between black and dark blue will show up, but perhaps it's a bit less "boring" that way. I'd like to find black enter, and backslash caps, and maybe backspace, but I haven't found the right donor yet. Also still having problems with USB converters. Blue cube and dongle type do the same thing - missed keystrokes, and random resetting. Powered hub didn't change that, nor did a new filter cap (there's only one) so I need to dig deeper. Any tips? Works perfectly as PS/2.Elrick wrote: ↑ Please keep the current colour of the keyboard casing because having an all BLACK coloured number is boring. Besides the colour-way you have going here is far more optimal in that the keys are easily seen within that gorgeous dark grey frame of the keyboard.
Sometimes using the same colour all over the keyboard, makes it look 'cheap' like all the garbage membrane keyboards selling for $12 each. For myself the Black coloured keyboards are now old hat and should be dispeansed into the bin. Now I am waiting for the return of "Beige" because that came in a variety of shades and finishes, that any hard-core keyboard lover would appreciate. Also you don't see dust easily on lighter coloured keyboards.
- Attachments
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- dark green and black caps...nah
- DSCN9826.JPG (816.64 KiB) Viewed 5498 times
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- dark blue and white...better...need black enter, backslash, and backspace(?) still
- DSCN9831.JPG (810.63 KiB) Viewed 5498 times
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
That is the number one thing about PS/2 sockets, some keyboards need motherboards with the built in PS/2 connection for smooth operability.Polecat wrote: ↑Also still having problems with USB converters. Blue cube and dongle type do the same thing - missed keystrokes, and random resetting. Powered hub didn't change that, nor did a new filter cap (there's only one) so I need to dig deeper. Any tips? Works perfectly as PS/2.
Tried using various USB converters and they are ALL problematic at best, so I now went back and bought up some AM4 PS/2 socket motherboards. I'm not living without my Model-Ms, Dell Alps, Zeniths and the latest baby bought off Xmit.
Will never again waste money buying any more absent PS/2 socket motherboards, especially now.
For myself, the only REAL PC motherboards are the ones with inbuilt PS/2 sockets and I like some of the Asrock boards who have both keyboard and mouse PS/2 sockets .
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
Already had a Pingmaster, but seen this one for sale today. It has vintage spherical doubleshots and is made up of two different sets. Comes with a Hasu converter and the original key set. I couldn't pass up this piece of art. I can see this becoming one of my daily drivers.
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
This reminds me... when it comes to Alps switches (I bought a Pingmaster as well, but haven't taken it out of the box yet), what ARE the options available for custom keycaps? (I mean other than the few pre-built sets I've seen in places like mk.com). If nothing else, I'd be content to get a bunch of blank keycaps and write on them with a Sharpie (have I commited a faux pas just now???).
- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks, I agree 100 percent, and all my PCs have a PS/2 port. But the Mac is USB only. No way around that other than to pitch the Mac. (sooo...tempting...) It's something specific to the Acer since all the other old boards work fine through one converter or the other. And I won't give them up either. I've been using, and yes, hoarding (there, I said it) Alps keyboards since the mid-'80s and no way am I going to give them up! Started with a Leading Edge 2014 on an XT clone, and I was hooked. I'm typing right now on a like-new blue Alps Laser (Monterey K102), and I was using a Monterey K104 for the last ten years before that.Elrick wrote: ↑
That is the number one thing about PS/2 sockets, some keyboards need motherboards with the built in PS/2 connection for smooth operability.
Tried using various USB converters and they are ALL problematic at best, so I now went back and bought up some AM4 PS/2 socket motherboards. I'm not living without my Model-Ms, Dell Alps, Zeniths and the latest baby bought off Xmit.
Will never again waste money buying any more absent PS/2 socket motherboards, especially now.
For myself, the only REAL PC motherboards are the ones with inbuilt PS/2 sockets and I like some of the Asrock boards who have both keyboard and mouse PS/2 sockets .
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Not here, all that matters is the actual SWITCH usage .depletedvespene wrote: ↑ If nothing else, I'd be content to get a bunch of blank keycaps and write on them with a Sharpie (have I commited a faux pas just now???).
It would be nice to get all fully made caps with their desired legends but as you said, sometimes you have to make do with what's available rather than solely concerning yourself with how it looks.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I remember there where loads of pingmasters available in new condition.
Are there any left i wonder
Are there any left i wonder
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
The seller mendelsson still offers the Chinese-lettered ones (that's the one(*) I got).andrewjoy wrote: ↑I remember there where loads of pingmasters available in new condition.
Are there any left i wonder
(*) Ok, I confess: I bought THREE of them. The price was just too sweet not to.
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
lol nice. I though about getting a second one. One to mod, and another to keep original as a collectors item. Yep, Mendelsons still has them.depletedvespene wrote: ↑The seller mendelsson still offers the Chinese-lettered ones (that's the one(*) I got).andrewjoy wrote: ↑I remember there where loads of pingmasters available in new condition.
Are there any left i wonder
(*) Ok, I confess: I bought THREE of them. The price was just too sweet not to.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
My understanding is that most, if not all motherboards built in recent years with PS/2 sockets are actually relying on an internal PS/2-to-USB converter circuit.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Read about that as well BUT the motherboard's Bios has to recognize the onboard PS/2 socket as being rudimentary, meaning it's hardware is accepted and recognized from the start up phase.
USB external brackets and whatnot are not recognized by some older keyboards which cause havoc or misreading the signals coming from it, during the start up stage of the PC. Hence when I placed the older Ms and Fs onto the PS/2 socketed motherboards it was accepted and recognized without any faults whatsoever.
Of course this is my reasoning why I still prefer to buy and use PS/2 socket mainboards due to my collection of older keyboards. Have less trouble in using them, compared to the endless start up freezes using some external USB converters.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Got my 9500904 SGI ISO Granite out of storage the other day, I had not used it in two years and forgotten how nice these tactile Alps SKCM Cream Damped really are. Alps appreciation aliright...
Here's more on the keyboard:
keyboards-f2/silicon-graphics-granite-i ... ?hilit=sgi
Here's more on the keyboard:
keyboards-f2/silicon-graphics-granite-i ... ?hilit=sgi
- Mattr567
- Location: Socal
- Main keyboard: Many things
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: Alps in general
- DT Pro Member: -
Converted my IBM P70 keyboard today! It's really simple, used a Dell AT101 cable. Caps are a mix of P70 and PBT Dell AT101. This board used to be hypersphere's, won it on ebay.
Really liking APS so far, the thick PBT helps with this.
Awaiting a replacement case im planning to mod it into Also Chryos idk what the issue was with yours but my lock lights work perfectly fine.
BTW the pinout for a Dell/SGI AT101 is:
White = gnd
Green = 5v
Yellow = clock
Small black = data
The rest are useless.
Really liking APS so far, the thick PBT helps with this.
Awaiting a replacement case im planning to mod it into Also Chryos idk what the issue was with yours but my lock lights work perfectly fine.
BTW the pinout for a Dell/SGI AT101 is:
White = gnd
Green = 5v
Yellow = clock
Small black = data
The rest are useless.
-
- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
So I had a dumpster find the other day. In fact, I basically yanked it out of the hand of guys trying to throw it in the trash compactor, and yes, they did look at me like I was a weirdo.
My question is, since orange alps are the closest thing to blue alps mechanically, should I click mod the alps? Or would modding perfectly good orange alps be out right blasphemy because of rarity? Also, if I do click mod them, how much of an improvement to the feel do you get by using proper click leafs(like harvested from whites) instead of click leafs with the tabs cut?
My question is, since orange alps are the closest thing to blue alps mechanically, should I click mod the alps? Or would modding perfectly good orange alps be out right blasphemy because of rarity? Also, if I do click mod them, how much of an improvement to the feel do you get by using proper click leafs(like harvested from whites) instead of click leafs with the tabs cut?
- Attachments
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- AEK Orange Alps
- AEK.png (1.4 MiB) Viewed 5165 times
- Mattr567
- Location: Socal
- Main keyboard: Many things
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: Alps in general
- DT Pro Member: -
Wow nice save! I wouldn't click mod them, have them for what they are.rich1051414 wrote: ↑So I had a dumpster find the other day. In fact, I basically yanked it out of the hand of guys trying to throw it in the trash compactor, and yes, they did look at me like I was a weirdo.
My question is, since orange alps are the closest thing to blue alps mechanically, should I click mod the alps? Or would modding perfectly good orange alps be out right blasphemy because of rarity? Also, if I do click mod them, how much of an improvement to the feel do you get by using proper click leafs(like harvested from whites) instead of click leafs with the tabs cut?
SKCM Cream (non damp) is technically closest to SKCM Blue btw
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
The lock LIGHTS were OK iirc, but the KEYS broke the board somehow. Not really sure why but I think I've heard of a similarly issue with someone else.Mattr567 wrote: ↑Converted my IBM P70 keyboard today! It's really simple, used a Dell AT101 cable. Caps are a mix of P70 and PBT Dell AT101. This board used to be hypersphere's, won it on ebay.
Really liking APS so far, the thick PBT helps with this.
Awaiting a replacement case im planning to mod it into Also Chryos idk what the issue was with yours but my lock lights work perfectly fine.
BTW the pinout for a Dell/SGI AT101 is:
White = gnd
Green = 5v
Yellow = clock
Small black = data
The rest are useless.
Nice board, they're good switches, aren't they?
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I'm wondering …
"Mechanical Contact with Tactile CM(KCM) Series"
If we take this to be Engrish, then it takes on a new meaning. Instead of "Tactile CM" meaning anything (which it seems not to, since "C" is a distinct element that denotes switches with switchplates: SKCC, SKCL, SKCM, SKCP), it seems more like they were going for:
"Mechanical Contact with Tactility/Tactile Feedback: CM(KCM) Series"
I don't know what "KCM" means, but K and KF are used in keyboards. For example, a keyboard with SKCL switches will have a model beginning KCL or later KFCL. We have proof that Alps used "SKCL/SKCM series" (SKCL/SKCMシリーズ) as a name in 1999, but what we don't know if "CM" was originally the whole name or whether it was always an abbreviation for "SKCM". Sandy's transcription of the [wiki]1994 Alps catalogue[/wiki] was incomplete and didn't cover SKFR/SKFS series at all.
"Mechanical Contact with Tactile CM(KCM) Series"
If we take this to be Engrish, then it takes on a new meaning. Instead of "Tactile CM" meaning anything (which it seems not to, since "C" is a distinct element that denotes switches with switchplates: SKCC, SKCL, SKCM, SKCP), it seems more like they were going for:
"Mechanical Contact with Tactility/Tactile Feedback: CM(KCM) Series"
I don't know what "KCM" means, but K and KF are used in keyboards. For example, a keyboard with SKCL switches will have a model beginning KCL or later KFCL. We have proof that Alps used "SKCL/SKCM series" (SKCL/SKCMシリーズ) as a name in 1999, but what we don't know if "CM" was originally the whole name or whether it was always an abbreviation for "SKCM". Sandy's transcription of the [wiki]1994 Alps catalogue[/wiki] was incomplete and didn't cover SKFR/SKFS series at all.
- Wingklip
- Location: Sydnegrad, Soviet Republic of Australasia
- Main keyboard: IBM 3178 Model F C2
- Main mouse: G502 Logitech Proteus core
- Favorite switch: Beam/plate spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Does Hasu's PS2 converter work for this?Chyros wrote: ↑The lock LIGHTS were OK iirc, but the KEYS broke the board somehow. Not really sure why but I think I've heard of a similarly issue with someone else.Mattr567 wrote: ↑Converted my IBM P70 keyboard today! It's really simple, used a Dell AT101 cable. Caps are a mix of P70 and PBT Dell AT101. This board used to be hypersphere's, won it on ebay.
Really liking APS so far, the thick PBT helps with this.
Awaiting a replacement case im planning to mod it into Also Chryos idk what the issue was with yours but my lock lights work perfectly fine.
BTW the pinout for a Dell/SGI AT101 is:
White = gnd
Green = 5v
Yellow = clock
Small black = data
The rest are useless.
Nice board, they're good switches, aren't they?
- E3E
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Blue, Neon Green, Striped Amber, Cream Alps, Topre
- Main mouse: Logitech, Topre
- Favorite switch: Alps, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
It is PS2, at least in this case. A friend of mine said that theirs was not. Typically, they are though.Wingklip wrote: ↑Does Hasu's PS2 converter work for this?Chyros wrote: ↑The lock LIGHTS were OK iirc, but the KEYS broke the board somehow. Not really sure why but I think I've heard of a similarly issue with someone else.Mattr567 wrote: ↑Converted my IBM P70 keyboard today! It's really simple, used a Dell AT101 cable. Caps are a mix of P70 and PBT Dell AT101. This board used to be hypersphere's, won it on ebay.
Really liking APS so far, the thick PBT helps with this.
Awaiting a replacement case im planning to mod it into Also Chryos idk what the issue was with yours but my lock lights work perfectly fine.
BTW the pinout for a Dell/SGI AT101 is:
White = gnd
Green = 5v
Yellow = clock
Small black = data
The rest are useless.
Nice board, they're good switches, aren't they?
- Wingklip
- Location: Sydnegrad, Soviet Republic of Australasia
- Main keyboard: IBM 3178 Model F C2
- Main mouse: G502 Logitech Proteus core
- Favorite switch: Beam/plate spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Does Hasu's PS2 converter work for this?[/quote]E3E wrote: ↑The lock LIGHTS were OK iirc, but the KEYS broke the board somehow. Not really sure why but I think I've heard of a similarly issue with someone else.Wingklip wrote: ↑Converted my IBM P70 keyboard today! It's really simple, used a Dell AT101 cable. Caps are a mix of P70 and PBT Dell AT101. This board used to be hypersphere's, won it on ebay.
Really liking APS so far, the thick PBT helps with this.
Awaiting a replacement case im planning to mod it into Also Chryos idk what the issue was with yours but my lock lights work perfectly fine.
BTW the pinout for a Dell/SGI AT101 is:
White = gnd
Green = 5v
Yellow = clock
Small black = data
The rest are useless.
Nice board, they're good switches, aren't they?
It is PS2, at least in this case. A friend of mine said that theirs was not. Typically, they are though.[/quote]
I meant for the lock light freeze problem when using Soarer's converter
- Mattr567
- Location: Socal
- Main keyboard: Many things
- Main mouse: G502
- Favorite switch: Alps in general
- DT Pro Member: -
Thats what I meant, mine DOESN'T freeze, at all. Works 100% fine.Chyros wrote: ↑The lock LIGHTS were OK iirc, but the KEYS broke the board somehow. Not really sure why but I think I've heard of a similarly issue with someone else.
Nice board, they're good switches, aren't they?
The more I use them the more I like them, my replacement case should make it a lot better. Also its not the biggest deal to get the top case off. 7 flat head screwdrivers and your good.
Its just PS/2, like a Model M, no need.Wingklip wrote: ↑ I meant for the lock light freeze problem when using Soarer's converter
-
- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh, I was mistaken, and sounds like a plan. I really like how the oranges feel right now anyway.Mattr567 wrote: ↑Wow nice save! I wouldn't click mod them, have them for what they are.rich1051414 wrote: ↑So I had a dumpster find the other day. In fact, I basically yanked it out of the hand of guys trying to throw it in the trash compactor, and yes, they did look at me like I was a weirdo.
My question is, since orange alps are the closest thing to blue alps mechanically, should I click mod the alps? Or would modding perfectly good orange alps be out right blasphemy because of rarity? Also, if I do click mod them, how much of an improvement to the feel do you get by using proper click leafs(like harvested from whites) instead of click leafs with the tabs cut?
SKCM Cream (non damp) is technically closest to SKCM Blue btw
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
The Pingmasters are here!
Actually, they have been here for a few weeks already. I had been waiting until I got the necessary converters so I could have a proper first click (just like astronomers have first light whenever their new telescope starts operating)... but couldn't anymore, so I've opened the box.
Damn, now I'm even more anxious to get the converters, so I can program layouts and test all my nutty "multipad" ideas. Also, and just because their shape lends themselves to it, the two keys between Right Shift and Backspace are totally going to be Caps Lock and Enter (as the Caps and Return keys on my old Atari 800XL).
Actually, they have been here for a few weeks already. I had been waiting until I got the necessary converters so I could have a proper first click (just like astronomers have first light whenever their new telescope starts operating)... but couldn't anymore, so I've opened the box.
Damn, now I'm even more anxious to get the converters, so I can program layouts and test all my nutty "multipad" ideas. Also, and just because their shape lends themselves to it, the two keys between Right Shift and Backspace are totally going to be Caps Lock and Enter (as the Caps and Return keys on my old Atari 800XL).
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Wait, what's "PAC 4623-02"? Is that the official model number?
Is the Pingmaster actually documented at all?
[wiki]Category:IBM keyboards[/wiki]
I don't see anything there resembling it, and there's no redirect entry for "Pingmaster" nor for "Kishsaver", nor any sign of that series.
From the wiki you'd be forgiven for thinking that people here do get fired for buying IBM …
Is the Pingmaster actually documented at all?
[wiki]Category:IBM keyboards[/wiki]
I don't see anything there resembling it, and there's no redirect entry for "Pingmaster" nor for "Kishsaver", nor any sign of that series.
From the wiki you'd be forgiven for thinking that people here do get fired for buying IBM …
- depletedvespene
- Location: Chile
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122
- Main mouse: Logitech G700s
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0224
- Contact:
The keyboards' part number is 6341739. The sticker pages (of which I got only one of each, instead of three each... not that I'll be using them, anyway) are 6341740 and 6341741. The 4623-02 only shows on the unpacking instruction page (which is extremely simple), and might well be the sheet's own number, common to all Pingmaster units.Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑Wait, what's "PAC 4623-02"? Is that the official model number?
Guess we'll have to get into it. I'll take proper photographs in the weeks to come and stuff.Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑Is the Pingmaster actually documented at all?
[wiki]Category:IBM keyboards[/wiki]
I don't see anything there resembling it, and there's no redirect entry for "Pingmaster" nor for "Kishsaver", nor any sign of that series.
From the wiki you'd be forgiven for thinking that people here do get fired for buying IBM …
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Didn't know were to post this query but since this is the ALPs appreciation thread, I'll put it here.
I want to buy a refurbished keyboard off this guy here http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/
His name is Bob Tibbetts so what are people's perception of him, is he decent or deceitful?
You know what it's like buying off the web from some person you have never dealt with before, hence I am very curious to know what other DT forum users experiences were when dealing with him?
He's not selling anything cheap, so I need to do this research before handing over money to this guy for any of his keyboards.
Please, anything about this guy would help, so don't be shy about letting us know whether he's a 'genuine', honest Seller or a confirmed Shyster?
I want to buy a refurbished keyboard off this guy here http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/
His name is Bob Tibbetts so what are people's perception of him, is he decent or deceitful?
You know what it's like buying off the web from some person you have never dealt with before, hence I am very curious to know what other DT forum users experiences were when dealing with him?
He's not selling anything cheap, so I need to do this research before handing over money to this guy for any of his keyboards.
Please, anything about this guy would help, so don't be shy about letting us know whether he's a 'genuine', honest Seller or a confirmed Shyster?