Regarding Outemu Blues
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
To make a point, i amm going to type this whole post without a singgle correction to anything I type.
I recently picked up a Z-77 board to take advantagee of the the easily replaceable switches, but it gave me time to test a switch I woouldn't have otherwise tested, Outemu blues. While the click in them is very satisfying, there is one glaring problem that makes the keyboard borderrline unusable for actual typing. You guessed it... chatterr.
The weird thing about this switchh is the hysteresis. It starts BELOW the click, meaning you can actuate multiple key strokes without allowing the slider to resett. As you can see, it's a problemm.
I recently picked up a Z-77 board to take advantagee of the the easily replaceable switches, but it gave me time to test a switch I woouldn't have otherwise tested, Outemu blues. While the click in them is very satisfying, there is one glaring problem that makes the keyboard borderrline unusable for actual typing. You guessed it... chatterr.
The weird thing about this switchh is the hysteresis. It starts BELOW the click, meaning you can actuate multiple key strokes without allowing the slider to resett. As you can see, it's a problemm.
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
The hysteresis is a function of the design of the sliding collar — how did they manage to screw that up?
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
I have no idea... I have variious other blues, bothh authentic and cloned, and none of them allow you to override the built in hysterious. I am still using the keyboard as you can see. Seeing if it is a matter of breaking it in or someething.Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑The hysteresis is a function of the design of the sliding collar — how did they manage to screw that up?
- ohaimark
- Kingpin
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Siemens G80 Lookalike
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: 1337
It's probably a poorly configured debounce timer in the firmware. Outemus, as a clone, probably need a bit more time than legitimate Cherries and more expensive clones.
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
If that is the case, I wonder if it can be hacked. I suppose if all else fails an inline teensy to filter off repeeat keystrokes could be a simple fix, but that would cost more money and time than I payed for the keyboard xDohaimark wrote: ↑It's probably a poorly configured debounce timer in the firmware. Outemus, as a clone, probably need a bit more time than legitimate Cherries and more expensive clones.
Ah well, I will probably pull these switches and toss them to the back of the deepest drawer I possess.
Edit: Upon closer inspection of this thread, it appears specific keys chatter more than others. E is a heavy offender. I guess I could move the chattering keys to less used locations.
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
You could inspect the solder joints on the chattering keys. Sometimes a bad soldering job is the cause of a single key chattering, in which case it can be fixed by reflowing the solder that's there.
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
This keyboard does not have soldered switches, but socketed switches.Findecanor wrote: ↑You could inspect the solder joints on the chattering keys. Sometimes a bad soldering job is the cause of a single key chattering, in which case it can be fixed by reflowing the solder that's there.
I have confirmed the chatter happens on the upstroke by turning on an LED effect and repeatedly pressing a key until it happens. Also, since the switches were very scratchy, I thought maybe the scratchiness in the switch was causing vibrations during the upstroke causing the contacts to bounce, so I lubed the sliders. The chattering has all but stopped now.
I chalk it up to the contact design and lack of adequate debounce in the firmware, however, lubing them prevents the contacts from bouncing in the first place, and has stopped the issue for now. Due to the way the hysterious doesn't work as it should in this keyboard, I will also assume they slimmed the design down to save on materials, but I haven't disassembled one yet to confirm that.
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Ah. That was what I first thought you meant but then I looked around for pictures of the Z-77's innards and they looked to me like the switches were soldered.rich1051414 wrote: ↑This keyboard does not have soldered switches, but socketed switches.
Anyway, before that I measured the pins of one Outemy switch I have and found that those are slightly thinner than pins on Cherry MX and Gateron switches. My actual first hypothesis was that maybe chatter was caused by pins not making good enough contact with the sockets.
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- Location: usa
- Main keyboard: model m
- Main mouse: kensington pro fit
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I had that keyboard and didn't have chatter on any keys, I wound up returning it and getting the z-88 which also does not have chatter. If you got it on Amazon if def return because that sounds bad if it's on multiple keys.
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- Location: Texas
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Spacesaver M
- Main mouse: CST trackball
- DT Pro Member: -
For whatever it's worth. . . I have a CyberpowerPC keyboard that came with Outemu blues, and I have not experienced the problem. I rather like it, especially since I added O-rings. Sharp clicks and delicate, musical pings.
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- Location: UK (Berkshire)
- Main keyboard: Cherry G84-4400 (work) / Tipro MID (home)
- Main mouse: Tiny trackball or laptop trackpad
- Favorite switch: Model M, until I try something rarer ;)
- DT Pro Member: -
Also for what it's worth: someone on Reddit found it was possible to press Outemu blues and hear the click without actuating the switch - thread here. Possibly there is/was some quality issue with Outemus - or a slight difference in design compared with other MX. Out of interest, rich1051414, are your Outemus the recent type with the "bracketed" mount, or the older type that have a bare cross like a Cherry MX?
Re hysteresis: I can get some old Cherry MX Whites (the opaque-slider 80gf type) to actuate more than once without the click collar reurning to the top of its travel, so the behaviour isn't confined to Outemus. I don't have Blues to try, but it was easier to achieve multiple actuations with the more tactile of my Whites, so I'm inclined to think Blues might be even easier.
Re hysteresis: I can get some old Cherry MX Whites (the opaque-slider 80gf type) to actuate more than once without the click collar reurning to the top of its travel, so the behaviour isn't confined to Outemus. I don't have Blues to try, but it was easier to achieve multiple actuations with the more tactile of my Whites, so I'm inclined to think Blues might be even easier.
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Whitefox Zealios 67g
- Main mouse: Logitech G900
- Favorite switch: Alps Orange
- DT Pro Member: -
I don't think my experience is representative of what most people should expect, but I guess you should NOT expect quality control out of a $27 mechanical.citrojohn wrote: ↑Also for what it's worth: someone on Reddit found it was possible to press Outemu blues and hear the click without actuating the switch - thread here. Possibly there is/was some quality issue with Outemus - or a slight difference in design compared with other MX. Out of interest, rich1051414, are your Outemus the recent type with the "bracketed" mount, or the older type that have a bare cross like a Cherry MX?
Re hysteresis: I can get some old Cherry MX Whites (the opaque-slider 80gf type) to actuate more than once without the click collar reurning to the top of its travel, so the behaviour isn't confined to Outemus. I don't have Blues to try, but it was easier to achieve multiple actuations with the more tactile of my Whites, so I'm inclined to think Blues might be even easier.