BOX switches
- zslane
- Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
- Main keyboard: RealForce RGB
- Main mouse: Basic Microsoft USB mouse
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Right. Stem thicknesses are documented as:
Flawed BOX stem: 1.32mm (too thick)
Cherry MX stem: 1.31mm (just right)
Fixed BOX stem: 1.30mm (a bit thin)
It's amazing what a difference of 0.01mm can make.
Flawed BOX stem: 1.32mm (too thick)
Cherry MX stem: 1.31mm (just right)
Fixed BOX stem: 1.30mm (a bit thin)
It's amazing what a difference of 0.01mm can make.
- kailh01
- Location: China
- Main keyboard: Hexgears
- Main mouse: lenovo
- Favorite switch: kailh switch
- Contact:
jani80k wrote: ↑11 Mar 2019, 09:28I ordered a Kailh Box Switch tester off of the KBDFans Website which arrived on Friday.
I can assure you that the Box Switches (one of every type there is except HAKO) in the tester were all fine.
I put some Cherry MX Browns next to them and tested them with the provided clear keycaps that come with the switch tester.
The keycaps fit the Box Switch stems more loosely than the MX Browns and Clears which proves that the Box Switches now have thinner stems than Cherry MX Switches which is a good thing.
This means that Re-Tooled Box Switches not only will not crack your keycaps anymore, they are far from it now, being not as thick as standard Cherry MX Stems.
I am posting this so people on the internet can read it in case they are unsure whether new Box Switches are safe now, like I was. Go for them!
thanks for your kindl help,(sorry for long time not login this web,my account has some problems).
yep.we've resolved the issue in the last year,we also recalled the old version box switch from all round the world's retailers.
We cared about your guys opinions and we do wanna get more better.
- ZedTheMan
- Location: Central US
- Main keyboard: IModel F77/IBM 3101/Omnikey 102/96Kee
- Main mouse: Logitech G430/Logitech M570/Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: Beamsprings. Alps SKCM Blue, Capacitive Buckling S
- DT Pro Member: 0219
kailh01 wrote: ↑12 Mar 2019, 07:30jani80k wrote: ↑11 Mar 2019, 09:28I ordered a Kailh Box Switch tester off of the KBDFans Website which arrived on Friday.
I can assure you that the Box Switches (one of every type there is except HAKO) in the tester were all fine.
I put some Cherry MX Browns next to them and tested them with the provided clear keycaps that come with the switch tester.
The keycaps fit the Box Switch stems more loosely than the MX Browns and Clears which proves that the Box Switches now have thinner stems than Cherry MX Switches which is a good thing.
This means that Re-Tooled Box Switches not only will not crack your keycaps anymore, they are far from it now, being not as thick as standard Cherry MX Stems.
I am posting this so people on the internet can read it in case they are unsure whether new Box Switches are safe now, like I was. Go for them!
thanks for your kindl help,(sorry for long time not login this web,my account has some problems).
yep.we've resolved the issue in the last year,we also recalled the old version box switch from all round the world's retailers.
We cared about your guys opinions and we do wanna get more better.
Hey, Kailh?
Are there any plans to revise BOX Royal switches so that they do not develop a click once they are well used?
- kailh01
- Location: China
- Main keyboard: Hexgears
- Main mouse: lenovo
- Favorite switch: kailh switch
- Contact:
Hello The box royal is exclusive by Novelkeys,so if there has any problem,you guys need to feedback the problem to them,because the right of changing belongs to them.
Thanks
Thanks
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
Hi everyone, I forgot to update this, but I am now completely sure the Wyse's caps were likely ruined by the retrobriting, not the switches (the plastic on the cap itself cracks very easily on this set that I have since got rid of) and new Tai-Hao caps have no damage when put on the same switches.
- jani80k
- Location: Hamburg,Germany
- Main keyboard: IDB60, JER J80, KBD8x MK²
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge / MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Smooth linears with slow force curve
- DT Pro Member: -
The Box Royal on the switch tester I received last week from KBDFans was perfectly fine.ZedTheMan wrote: ↑12 Mar 2019, 23:08kailh01 wrote: ↑12 Mar 2019, 07:30jani80k wrote: ↑11 Mar 2019, 09:28I ordered a Kailh Box Switch tester off of the KBDFans Website which arrived on Friday.
I can assure you that the Box Switches (one of every type there is except HAKO) in the tester were all fine.
I put some Cherry MX Browns next to them and tested them with the provided clear keycaps that come with the switch tester.
The keycaps fit the Box Switch stems more loosely than the MX Browns and Clears which proves that the Box Switches now have thinner stems than Cherry MX Switches which is a good thing.
This means that Re-Tooled Box Switches not only will not crack your keycaps anymore, they are far from it now, being not as thick as standard Cherry MX Stems.
I am posting this so people on the internet can read it in case they are unsure whether new Box Switches are safe now, like I was. Go for them!
thanks for your kindl help,(sorry for long time not login this web,my account has some problems).
yep.we've resolved the issue in the last year,we also recalled the old version box switch from all round the world's retailers.
We cared about your guys opinions and we do wanna get more better.
Hey, Kailh?
Are there any plans to revise BOX Royal switches so that they do not develop a click once they are well used?
-
- Location: CZ
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Advantage2, JIS ThinkPad,…
- Main mouse: I like (some) trackballs, e.g., L-Trac
- Favorite switch: #vintage ghost Cherry MX Black (+ thick POM caps)
- DT Pro Member: -
- jani80k
- Location: Hamburg,Germany
- Main keyboard: IDB60, JER J80, KBD8x MK²
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge / MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Smooth linears with slow force curve
- DT Pro Member: -
Sorry, I did not read well enough. I assumed we are talking about the thread title.
The question would have been worth a new topic because I am interested in that, too.
Maybe a Mod can do that for us...
My findings on this issue (I disassembled the Box Royal) are that they are well lubed and the clicking starts, when the lube wears off. It will be difficult to find a lube that won't migrate over time.
- ZedTheMan
- Location: Central US
- Main keyboard: IModel F77/IBM 3101/Omnikey 102/96Kee
- Main mouse: Logitech G430/Logitech M570/Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: Beamsprings. Alps SKCM Blue, Capacitive Buckling S
- DT Pro Member: 0219
Do you think that a heavy dry lubricant could last? Or maybe if the plastic was made of that Teflon infused stuff that Dupont makes?jani80k wrote: ↑13 Mar 2019, 14:24Sorry, I did not read well enough. I assumed we are talking about the thread title.
The question would have been worth a new topic because I am interested in that, too.
Maybe a Mod can do that for us...
My findings on this issue (I disassembled the Box Royal) are that they are well lubed and the clicking starts, when the lube wears off. It will be difficult to find a lube that won't migrate over time.
- jani80k
- Location: Hamburg,Germany
- Main keyboard: IDB60, JER J80, KBD8x MK²
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge / MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Smooth linears with slow force curve
- DT Pro Member: -
I think we should ask this question to Mike from Novelkeys. As I have read on their website, Novelkeys now owns the tooling for the BOX Switches. Maybe to make sure that no one will tamper with the stem size again
I think, it is safe to say, the tooling is still in China though.
I am not a switch engineer so I don't know the answer to your question whether the type of lube would work but it would be good to know if Novelkeys is aware of this issue and working on it...
FYI - I just contacted Novelkeys via their website and asked them to reply to this thread.
- jani80k
- Location: Hamburg,Germany
- Main keyboard: IDB60, JER J80, KBD8x MK²
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge / MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Smooth linears with slow force curve
- DT Pro Member: -
I got a reply and you might not like the answer...
By the way, when I disassembled some of the switches from my tester, I found out that in Kailh Copper Speed Switches the metal leaves which are pushed back by the slider extend further into the housing than those of other switches. I inserted an MX Clear stem into a Kailh Speed Copper housing and the result was almost better than Box Royals. Just saying.
So, I guess, if you want to enjoy the overwhelming tactility of Box Royals at the moment, you must best use them in a hot-swappable Kit so you can relube them in case they start clicking, if that makes sense.Novelkeys wrote:Hi there,
This is actually something that happens to BOX Brown, BOX Burnt Orange, and BOX Royals over time. I have talked to Kaihua about this before, and there is no plans to make any changes. Kaihua did confirm that this happens over time with the wearing of the lube, but that it does not change the function of the switch.
Thanks,
Mike
By the way, when I disassembled some of the switches from my tester, I found out that in Kailh Copper Speed Switches the metal leaves which are pushed back by the slider extend further into the housing than those of other switches. I inserted an MX Clear stem into a Kailh Speed Copper housing and the result was almost better than Box Royals. Just saying.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I wish people would just stop fucking about with the notches to generate tactility. As I noted in my review of the BOX Royals, they feel good, it's just crazy that they had to resort to a bump THIS big in order to make a notch switch actually feel tactile. And now, as a side effect, they can't keep quiet. Can't we just drop the stupid notches?!
- ZedTheMan
- Location: Central US
- Main keyboard: IModel F77/IBM 3101/Omnikey 102/96Kee
- Main mouse: Logitech G430/Logitech M570/Kensington Expert
- Favorite switch: Beamsprings. Alps SKCM Blue, Capacitive Buckling S
- DT Pro Member: 0219
Bring back the leaf springs, I say!Chyros wrote: ↑14 Mar 2019, 21:28I wish people would just stop fucking about with the notches to generate tactility. As I noted in my review of the BOX Royals, they feel good, it's just crazy that they had to resort to a bump THIS big in order to make a notch switch actually feel tactile. And now, as a side effect, they can't keep quiet. Can't we just drop the stupid notches?!
- jani80k
- Location: Hamburg,Germany
- Main keyboard: IDB60, JER J80, KBD8x MK²
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge / MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Smooth linears with slow force curve
- DT Pro Member: -
Probably most of us would still take Box Royals over most "tactile" MX mount compatible switches out there, despite the muted clicking that might eventually develop over time, just because there are not that many alternatives, especially at this price point.Chyros wrote: ↑14 Mar 2019, 21:28I wish people would just stop fucking about with the notches to generate tactility. As I noted in my review of the BOX Royals, they feel good, it's just crazy that they had to resort to a bump THIS big in order to make a notch switch actually feel tactile. And now, as a side effect, they can't keep quiet. Can't we just drop the stupid notches?!
I think the really interesting thing to learn from this is that lube in switches can migrate because the switch works as expected as long as the lube is in place.
The linear Box Switches in my Switch testers are far more smooth than even the retooled Cherry switches. When I opened them, they are clearly lubed. If the smoothness is also a result of the lube, this could mean they will become less smooth over time. But to what extent? Moreover, this could happen with any switch - also the ones that we lube ourselves. Krytox 205 Grade 0 being "non-migrating" only means it's not runny like e.g. 105. This does not mean it is resilient to the mechanical forces of thousands of keypresses. Maybe we shouldn't only question notches but also lubing - or at least lower our expectations of what lubing can do. Just thinking out loud.
- zrrion
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: F122
- Main mouse: Microsoft IntelliMouse
- Favorite switch: ALPS SKCC Cream
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
A skcm style leaf in an MX compatible switch would be a dream. I like MX tactility well enough, but the requirement for keeping the weight/tactility ratio in a particular range prevents the light weight high tactility that I want from a switch.
I would think that a click bar could be made to hook under a slider in a similar way to a leaf allowing tactility to be effected by both weight of the bar and by the shape of the tooth as well as not blocking light from an led.
I would think that a click bar could be made to hook under a slider in a similar way to a leaf allowing tactility to be effected by both weight of the bar and by the shape of the tooth as well as not blocking light from an led.
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
spam
You go on this topic time after time, I've tried both mx clears and orange Alps, brown Alps, ect and both feel 'actually tactile' in my opinion. Sure the design isn't optimal but I think the end result of mx clears feels just as good as tactile Alps as a tactile switch. There's still a big tactile bump that shows you when you actuated it. Also I'd argue that brown Alps are badly designed too, even if they feel good. I mean a fake switch plate to generate tactility is just as dumb as a notch in my opinion but both feel good to me. Guess it's an opinion thing though, considering you said in a video that mx clears felt absolutely linear. Which I don't get, I find the bump to be huge on themChyros wrote: ↑14 Mar 2019, 21:28I wish people would just stop fucking about with the notches to generate tactility. As I noted in my review of the BOX Royals, they feel good, it's just crazy that they had to resort to a bump THIS big in order to make a notch switch actually feel tactile. And now, as a side effect, they can't keep quiet. Can't we just drop the stupid notches?!
- StrangerInTheAlps
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Realforce RGB
- Main mouse: Nixeus Revel
- Favorite switch: Topre
I think the problem is "bump" isn't really the right word, at least not without qualifying or quantifying it (same as if you are driving on a bad road; there are gentle bumps that you wouldn't feel in a luxury car, and then there are monstrous, suspension destroyers that are still called "bumps").samuelcable wrote: ↑01 May 2019, 15:43You go on this topic time after time, I've tried both mx clears and orange Alps, brown Alps, ect and both feel 'actually tactile' in my opinion. Sure the design isn't optimal but I think the end result of mx clears feels just as good as tactile Alps as a tactile switch. There's still a big tactile bump that shows you when you actuated it. Also I'd argue that brown Alps are badly designed too, even if they feel good. I mean a fake switch plate to generate tactility is just as dumb as a notch in my opinion but both feel good to me. Guess it's an opinion thing though, considering you said in a video that mx clears felt absolutely linear. Which I don't get, I find the bump to be huge on them
To me, typing on Clears is like punching pillows. The type of feedback you get is dependent on the speed and force you use. I would definitely agree that they are tactile, regardless, but not sharp.