F104+SSK+122+62+77+50+Ergo orders now open! New Kishsaver+Industrial Model F Keyboards

[Ellipse]

Yes, everyone feel free to sign the interest forms below:

Pad print interest form: https://forms.gle/qvX4pR27a9Sr7fSN6

Interest form for PC AT big enter, ISO enter non-stepped, and Code key: https://forms.gle/XNmsgnwKfbwYMfci8

As a reminder, I had to cancel factory work on both these items in the past couple years due to subpar quality (see prior forum and blog postings for details); I hope to resume work later this year with new factories.

This discussion is quite puzzling to me since only the same 2 or 3 folks are noticing this even though the same exact batch of materials and produced parts has been used for years on thousands of keyboards. The constant feedback I receive from folks who have used these keyboards for years says the keyboard is great and no one is saying the keyboard became scratchy after using it. If it was a bad batch, one would think that more than 3 folks would notice and that people would not start noticing only years after this same parts batch started shipping, even though it is reported to become noticeable just after a month of usage?

If this were a widespread issue wouldn't I be receiving dozens and dozens of reports over email? Even with thousands of boards out there, I have received so far 0 emails about what you are reporting with keys becoming scratchy after a while, from what I can see checking my email just now.

Another interesting idea is for me to send you a scrap original production pearl/pebble first batch key set with alignment and other issues (and missing keys) or an unprinted pearl/pebble key set. The unprinted pearl/pebble sets are all still from the first batch. This way we can see if something changed with the 2022 batch, even though it's the same material.

Also, someone else suggested trying XT barrels (you'd have to cut off their pin registration post). I have a few I could send for testing. That would possibly rule out the new barrels.

For those reporting this, are your findings more prominent with a particular key size, mold cavity number, or key color? Maybe we can narrow down what you are saying a bit. As I mentioned before, the US pearl/pebble keys are just about all the same batch made years ago, same type of plastic. Same with the barrels being the same type of plastic. Also please send photos of the worn barrels.

Yes, I would definitely appreciate receiving back those parts so that I can compare them to other parts, and I'd be happy to exchange them by mailing replacements with someone's next order (just add an order note so I don't forget!).

It is not as if it affects only a certain recent batch made last year for example. As I mentioned before, the US pearl/pebble keys are just about all the same batch, same type of plastic. Same with the barrels being the same type of plastic.

[resonator]

> For those reporting this, are your findings more prominent with a particular key size, mold cavity number, or key color?

I'm noticing it is worst on keys that I routinely press off-centre. I've so far replaced the barrels and caps of the E, F, Tab and Caps-Lock keys. They are all still okay after about a month, but I'm noticing it appearing on other keys too.

The Tab and Caps-Lock keys are almost exclusively pressed on their right-hand side. The F key is wobbled around feeling for the home bump. I'm not sure why the E key went bad but I do rest my middle finger on it.

I have a couple more keys that have become scratchy. The T key which I often hit on it's left edge. My left shift which like Tab and Caps-Lock, I hit on its right edge. Also the key to the right of space is also going bad, but I wouldn't say its scratchy yet. I can hear a slight hiss as it's pressed but I feel no resistance yet. None of my keys are binding up when I press them.

The cavity numbers are:
ctrl (capslock): 2
tab: 3

My letter keys are pearl and my modifier keys are pebble.

[Volkovich_]

So I'm also having some of those issues with the paint, exactly where my hands rest. As others have said it's like the paint "softened" and melted in those areas, the areas I don't touch, the paint stays intact and hard. The fact I can remove the paint scratching with my nail is pretty lame honestly, I was expecting more durability.

Granted I've used the keyboard daily since June 2020, and my climate in switzerland is not exactly extreme, but I was always wondering if the loss of paint was normal, but I see it's not.

Here are some pics.
https://imgur.com/a/OCHBRbG




Also, I'm quite disappointed with the F104 that I received recently. I had to go back to the F77 as somehow every key felt heavier, scratchier and slightly binding when pressing them off center, and the spacebar spring not being strong enough. I gave it a month of exclusive usage, to see if there is some breaking in, but no, had to come back to the F77, because it was really impacting my typing speed and my typing experience.

[tron]

Here's my F77 (first batch). It's been my daily driver since it arrived and the paint finish nearly mint, I even have a wood wrist rest occasionally rubbing against the surface w/out issues. It's a bit dirty but otherwise in great shape.

[YALE70]

After sitting here for three hours rapidly tapping switches taped to my desk I think I would like to hold off on the de-burring operation.

So to re-cap(ha, puns):
L-Ctrl and L-Alt were the first to start fetching up originally. In early January L-Ctrl got silicone and L-Alt got lithium. Once month later L-Ctrl was still great but L-Alt was starting to bind up again.

As a test just within the past 24h I got out a new barrel and cap, de-burred the barrel, and it seemed really great initially.... It is now starting to get scratchy if pressed off-centre.

Since cleaning L-Ctrl and L-Alt(both have burr) with 99% isopropyl alcohol they are both operating equally smoothly, and at least so far, they seem even better than the fresh de-burred switch when it was still fresh.

I tried de-burring R-Alt and went a little harder on it than the fresh barrel. It was not all that much better initially, but has come around to a second-place completely reasonable state with a tiny bit of silicone grease.

The A key is also de-burred but a bit lighter than R-Alt. However I only have so many fingers here and haven't played with it for very long.

R-Ctrl is my control, it has never been lubed or de-burred and will remain that way for the time being. It is not a very nice switch to use, though did improve slightly once cleaned. It's still the worst of the lot currently.


I am wondering if I might need to eat my words about keys breaking in. I am wondering if the lubricant allows for easier wear-in by holding the particles in suspension so they can do their abrasive thing but still allowing easy gentle movement.

I really want to just skim the whole board with silicone grease and see what happens.

Some other thoughts...
The burr, if properly broken in, perhaps is less surface area and less friction? But will the lack of support/bearing surface(skinny burr VS. wide flat barrel) ultimately cause more wear when the lube is removed in the future?

I'm pretty sure my surface finish is not as smooth as the natural as-cast finish, unfortunately I am not really equipped to deal with that at the moment. But I don't know enough about plastic to know if it should actually be glassy smooth or have some texture to reduce friction. I guess it depends on the viscosity of the lubricant you are trying to hold, if any at all.

Someone smarter than me knows this answer for the plastics involved in this. But for the time being when I get back at this again I am going to see what happens with the whole thing getting silicone grease. Those two initially lubed keys are really nice during bench testing. So smooth, and crisp, just how a Model F should be. They are practically seamless when pushed from basically any angle.

I'm glad that the binding issues are getting some more thorough analysis. I hadn't even considered the possibility of a burr set deeper inside the barrel and I appreciate the trouble you went through to testing out a potential fix for it. Sucks that it didn't seem to hold, though I definitely think eliminating that burr is going to be part of a lasting solution.

I posted a few months ago about using a flathead screwdriver to burnish the inner edges of the barrels (I don't think anybody referenced it in the recent discussion):

• viewtopic.php?p=521292#p521292
• viewtopic.php?p=521433#p521433

At least for me, this still had the biggest impact in mostly resolving my key binding issues. It didn't work for resonator unfortunately, and a few of my keys relapse on occasion, but I just give the corners another pass and it feels good again. The bulk of the previously afflicted keys have still felt fine to me since I made those comments back in November and it hasn't been bothersome to type on.

I do have an F AT with me now and it's definitely still a bit smoother than my F104 overall, so maybe our ideas in conjunction might help point things in the right direction.

[mbarszcz]

YALE70, I gave your flat head screwdriver a try on my "E" key which is one of my worst, but it didn't seem to make any real change for me. I do see the light colored wear "dust" in the same place as you though.

For those reporting this, are your findings more prominent with a particular key size, mold cavity number, or key color? Maybe we can narrow down what you are saying a bit.

Generally speaking, my worst keys are unstabilized keys that are a combination of those those furthest from the center of my hands/fingers and on keys that are most frequently used.

According to google, the most common letters in the English language are:
E, T, A, O, I, N ,S, R, H , and L in that order.

Out of that list, my alpha keys with the most scratchiness are:
E, T, A, I, L

I would say that is a pretty close correlation to the use of the key being the primary factor rather than anything unusual about a particular key itself. Of the ones that aren't scratchy for me but are heavily used would be O, N, S, and R. These are keys I all hit pretty square on every time, just because of how my fingers are. L is not a particularly common letter, but it is on the far right side.

The numbers inside those keys are as follows (whatever that means):
E (6), T(5), A(1), I(4), L(7)

The worst and first key I noticed the scratchiness on was the left CTRL. It gets used often in a lot of keyboard shortcuts, it is larger than 1U, it is stabilized, because it is all the way in the corner, it is often pressed at the right edge by my pinky. It seems to have all the right conditions to become scratchy, and it does for me, and I believe for many others as well.

Stabilized keys in my experience do not seem to develop this behavior.

[YALE70]

YALE70, I gave your flat head screwdriver a try on my "E" key which is one of my worst, but it didn't seem to make any real change for me. I do see the light colored wear "dust" in the same place as you though.

Crud. Feeling like a bit of a special case here.

Just in case, and because my original pictures are probably somewhat unclear, I marked the suspect edges in red. I just ran the screwdriver blade up and down along each of those edges at a 70-80 degree angle - that way you're not drawing the jagged edge into the barrel. Not sure about the rough number of passes, but I just do each corner equally.

Again, there's certainly more to it based on the more recent evidence from other folks, so ymmv.

20250215_161807.jpg (635.09 KiB) Viewed 8479 times

[Rico]

Hello everyone, Rico here.

I would like to let you know am slowly working on adding support for released boards for the Leyden Jar controller.
For this I used the incredible work that NathanA did for its XWhatsIt Vial firmware work.
Adding a new keyboard is not a fully automated process but is fast enough for my taste and most importantly prevents me for doing conversion mistakes.
The first results of this porting work can be seen in a new F77 firmware using WCASS matrix mapping and an early version of the F62.
I plan to continue the porting effort based on user interest.

I'd like to thank everyone who made a Ko-Fi donation for the project !
This will help me finance future developments.
As a reminder the central Github repository is here: https://github.com/mymakercorner/Leyden_Jar

As for future developments I started designing a PCB to help me in the process.





But it not a capacitive PCB ???
Indeed it is not but key presses should be detected just as fine with the controller and the same code to detect key presses.
The goal here is just for me to have an inexpensive way to have a test jig for all the new features that I plan to add. I plan to order only bare PCBs as I have plenty of diodes and HS sockets at home.

I will be able to work on split keyboard firmwares and PS2 connectivity feature with them

See you !

[Ellipse]

Rico this is great news! The eventual goal is to have all new and original Model F keyboards supported by the Leyden Jar controller.

If anyone has any ideas to discuss about regarding the next keyboards (ortholinear / planck / split ortho / etc.) please do share them! What would be feasible to add or update?

Everyone please do keep up this discussion; maybe it would be best if folks could ask around their materials science / engineer contacts to see what else could be looked into.

Volkovich_ paint wear has been reported on zinc cases and has been discussed for the past few years, though it seems to affect certain folks more than others.

Years ago the powdercoating paint formulation was changed for all other cases (compact F62/F77, Model M style cases, beam spring cases) to make it more modern-looking and less of the old style texture. Paint wear over time has not been reported as a widespread issue on these other cases with the newer formulation.

The F104 keys should be from the same batch that I mailed you in 2022, so there should be no difference in what you are reporting. Maybe try swapping a "scratchy" key from your new board to the old keyboard and swap the old key from your old keyboard to your new F104 and let us know the result. The barrels and springs are the same type of material as well.

Maybe it is just that the springs and other parts have loosened or become smoother in your older keyboard after many years of usage.

There is a large section in the recently updated manual on how to adjust the spacebar to increase or reduce the force, including bending the stabilizer wire away from or closer to the metal tabs, adjusting the metal tabs themselves, and replacing or reinstalling the spring.

mbarszcz from what you are reporting, it does not appear to be an issue with a particular keycap mold cavity. The barrels also have cavities but that would require opening the inner assembly to confirm.

It is still not clear why scratchiness has been reported only in recent months while the keycaps were almost all made years ago and the barrel plastic is the same. I thought it could be an issue with keycap mold wear but the issue is being reported with various keycap molds. Could it be an issue with barrel mold wear?

YALE70 are you trimming the top of the barrel or the entire length inside the barrel, where the key stem makes contact? If the mold has worn a bit, it would make the inside area of the barrel slightly smaller which may increase friction (I have reported this possibility to the factory for analysis).

[YALE70]

YALE70 are you trimming the top of the barrel or the entire length inside the barrel, where the key stem makes contact? If the mold has worn a bit, it would make the inside area of the barrel slightly smaller which may increase friction (I have reported this possibility to the factory for analysis).

Just the topmost edge. I'm not actually removing any material (as far as I can tell), just smoothing out what to me feels like a slight burr on those edges that I marked in red.

[wobbled]

Or maybe you could put your own money into researching your own products issue ellipse instead of asking people to reach out to engineer contacts lmfao. Quit expecting people to work for free for you, only to spit back in their face when they ask you for product specs.

[NathanA]

I recently got my FSSK (ISO-DE) delivered and now I am facing reality in the sense that macOS is not fully supported in the sense that it acts as if it were an Apple keyboard. [...] ...the latest firmware is based on NathanA's work (I tried to reach him, but to no avail.):

I haven't been able to hang out here on a regular basis recently, and Ellipse alerted me to your post. I was going to ask how you tried to contact me -- you couldn't have tried very hard! -- since I scoured my email inbox for any messages from anybody related to this, as well as all of my spam traps, and found nothing. Upon logging in to DT to reply here, I found you had PM'd me only once, back on Jan 7. FYI, the email notifications of PMs feature on the DT forums has been broken for a couple of months now at least, so the only way I would ever know that I had been sent a PM is if I happen to visit DT and log into my account. A PM no longer reliably generates an email notice to me. I do publish a direct contact email address on the website, but seemingly nobody ever thinks to use it...

Aaaaanyway... </digression>

I had read up on the history and technical details of the Apple "Fn" (and now Globe) key in the past. I went back and refreshed my memory on all of that, and also see that quite a bunch of new stuff has transpired since.

In short...it's a royal mess. (Thanks, Apple.)

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but my read on the situation, without going into too much detail, is that there is still no good solution to this problem. Every option that's been presented has compromises, which will cause just about any third-party keyboard's Fn/Globe to not work quite the same way as it would on a genuine Apple keyboard. And if the problem were approached the way that the first blog author did, adding it as a user/custom code like that bring along its own limitations (cannot be used in combination with certain other QMK features like Layer Tap/LT(x), which may break expectations).

The firmware can certainly be patched to add it as a native keycode rather than as a user/custom one, which removes those limitations, and others have done exactly that. But they have only done it to raw QMK, not to VIA/Vial firmwares. The Vial app is not going to know anything about that keycode even if the firmware itself does, and in fact we would have to be very careful with picking a free code to use, or else Vial key mappings could get screwed up. Ideally, the QMK authors and the author of the Vial app would both officially update their respective projects, so that there was agreement on both sides. But that hasn't happened to-date, and will probably take a while.

I will look into this and play around to see if I can come up with the "best" set of compromises, but it won't happen overnight and will probably take a little while to sort out and test.

It sounds like, though, that there are alternative ways to approach this problem that don't require any firmware modifications to the keyboard...have you looked into any of those?:

• Assuming you don't need a Caps Lock...apparently MacOS will let you remap the Caps Lock key to act as Fn/Globe. So you can use Vial to map Caps Lock to the key that you want the Globe key to be on, and then ask MacOS to use Caps Lock as Fn/Globe, and ta-da! (And if you do need Caps Lock functionality, this could probably be simulated by crafting a Macro that auto-applies QMK Key Lock to the 'Shift' key. Though it looks like KEY_LOCK needs to be enabled during compile time, I haven't been doing that, and I don't know if there is enough room left to squeeze that feature in or not...hrm...)
• Although I have not yet found solid confirmation of this, it sounds like Karabiner-Elements can arbitrarily remap virtually any key to Fn/Globe. So, you could install Karabiner, pick a key you will never use (e.g., Insert), map that keycode to the key on your 'board you want to use as Globe, configure Karabiner to treat that key as Globe, et voila. Only downside is you have to install a third-party app on your Mac.

Either of these options seem to me like they are going to get you the quickest results.

One final note: regardless of what you do or how the firmware changes in the future, one thing that you canNOT do is to overload the function of the QMK/Vial layer-switching key that we have colloquially called "Fn" around here, to ALSO act as the Mac-native Fn. "Fn" in the context of QMK/Vial means something wholly different than what Apple means by it. To retain both features, you will need to dedicate two separate keys: one for each. I suppose it could be argued, though, that on either a FSSK or F104 board, there are enough physical keys that you can probably get away with only a single QMK layer, and be perfectly content, in which case you can just re-use whatever key is currently programmed to be QMK "Fn" (layer 1) to instead be the Apple Fn key...

[Irving]

Thanks NathanA for checking back and your first thoughts on it!
I like your caps lock macOS mapping proposal. Long term I would prefer not to give up the Caps Lock functionality.
Your proposal to have QMK and Vial in lockstep sounds great to me and your investigations would be very welcomed! I have not even thought of it and never looked beyond QMK.

[Irving]

Under ‚Private Messages‘, all old PM are under ‚Sent messages‘ whereas newer ones are under ‚Outbox‘. Do they not even get sent any more?

[rsbseb]

Under ‚Private Messages‘, all old PM are under ‚Sent messages‘ whereas newer ones are under ‚Outbox‘. Do they not even get sent any more?

I have noticed the same thing. Let's test it out. I'll send you a message.

[NathanA]

I like your caps lock macOS mapping proposal. Long term I would prefer not to give up the Caps Lock functionality.

Couple of updates on this.

First, from the reading I've done so far, it sounds like mapping Caps Lock to Fn is a feature that only appeared in MacOS as of the most recent version (MacOS 15 "Sonoma"). So you won't see that option unless you are fully up-to-date.

I have an old Mac that is stuck on MacOS "Catalina", and so it is not possible for me to re-map Caps Lock just by going into the Keyboard Settings panel. However, I did download and install Karabiner-Elements, and not only can it remap Caps Lock to Fn, but it can remap *any* arbitrary key to Fn, even keys that don't normally act as modifier keys. So if you install Karabiner, you can pick some key that isn't normally present on a Mac keyboard (like Ins), use Vial to map Ins to the key on the FSSK that you want to act as Mac Fn/Globe, and then use Karabiner to remap Ins to Fn. In my testing, it works perfectly.

Karabiner is a well-respected open source Mac project that has existed for eons. I would not hesitate to recommend that others install and use it. It will solve your problem in under 5 minutes, no keyboard firmware update necessary. That said, I'll still continue to look into how to bring native Mac Fn support to the firmware, but the lack of that support should not prevent you from using your keyboard the way that you would like.

Your proposal to have QMK and Vial in lockstep sounds great to me [...] I have not even thought of it and never looked beyond QMK.

Just to be clear (since the naming can be a bit ambiguous), Vial can refer to either the keyboard firmware, or the app that runs on your PC that you use to configure your keyboard. Vial (the firmware) itself is based on QMK. So QMK still sits underneath the covers, constituting the bulk of the firmware. But you do need to have Vial support added to the QMK firmware, in order for the Vial *app* that runs on your computer to be able to talk to the keyboard and program it. The Vial app cannot just work with any old QMK-based keyboard.

I don't maintain the stock QMK source tree for xwhatsit-based keyboards...that's other people's wheelhouse. And frankly I have no interest in maintaining QMK-only firmwares. So any work I release will be Vial-enabled. But I am also not the *author* of Vial, and have no control over the development of the app itself. So my point was that there are a lot of components at play that are outside of my control...I can "propose" whatever I want, but I can't dictate anything, and my proposals might just end up being no more than hot wind. If the Vial app is not aware that the Mac Fn key is even a thing, then it is going to be cumbersome at best to use Vial to configure that key, and worst-case it might not be possible to harmonize the two until both the QMK project allocates an official QMK keycode enum for the Mac Fn key, and then afterward the Vial project separately adds the chosen keycode to an updated version of their app. I could theoretically take the Vial app's source code, and patch in support for a new keycode myself. But then I am forced to maintain a separate fork of the Vial app, too! ...and I'd rather not, if I can avoid it.

As far as using base QMK on your FSSK, it might be possible, depending on what version of FSSK you have. If you have the first version that came out with the "modern" styling, then non-Vial-ified QMK firmware does exist for that. But if you have the second version that came out with the classic Model M styling, as far as I am aware, my Vial firmware is the only firmware that exists for that keyboard model. Nothing's stopping anybody from taking my work and backporting it to plain-jane QMK, but I don't believe anybody has yet, and I'm not going to take the time to do so myself.

Under ‚Private Messages‘, all old PM are under ‚Sent messages‘ whereas newer ones are under ‚Outbox‘. Do they not even get sent any more?

If a PM that you sent is sitting in Outbox, that means the recipient hasn't opened it yet. If it's in Sent Messages, then they have.

[kbdfr]

Under ‚Private Messages‘, all old PM are under ‚Sent messages‘ whereas newer ones are under ‚Outbox‘. Do they not even get sent any more?

This is normal.
When you send a PM, it is first stored in "Outbox" until the recipient (who receives a notification) fetches it, and is then automatically moved to "Sent messages". This allows the sender to know the message has been read.

(just wanted to have this clarified in an ad hoc post)

[Ellipse]

F122 production and assembly update:

The first half of the F122 keyboard batch has arrived and is now in stock!

Feel free to email me if your F122 shipping address has changed but please first do an email search for your F122 order confirmation email to confirm whether that shipping address is still correct.

The F122's are expected to start shipping over the coming weeks and I expect it to take a couple months to test and mail out these boards, as there is also a backlog of all the other keyboards.

These F122's are expected to ship with the upgraded extra thick double walled Regular Slotted Container boxes which also arrived in this container shipment.

All the F122's should be going out over the coming months of this year. Assembly is expected to finish this month for the second half of this F122 batch; then it's two months on a container ship as these keyboards make their way to me!

210 F122 keyboards have arrived and the balance of 190 boards will be part of the aforementioned second half.

As I noted earlier, to get some of the orders out earlier than if we waited for everything to finish assembly, I decided to have the factory send out whatever they had completed before the Chinese New Year. Their process is to assemble one variation at a time until that variation has all of the specified quantity assembled. This means that depending on your variation, your order may have arrived already, or it will be on the second container shipment which should depart early next month and arrive two months after that.

Some folks have waited a while for the F122 but as a reminder, please do not email me asking which batch your F122 is in or where you are in the queue as I am unable to provide specifics as to where each order is in the queue or which container shipment each order is on for everyone. My focus now is to work on continuing to move through the backlog. The next update for your F122 order will be a shipping confirmation email with the tracking number. Also, please no switching to try to avoid waiting a few extra months. I cannot accept any order change requests for the F122.

[Ellipse]

A few folks periodically ask about making their Model F or Beam Spring keyboard wireless.

Has anyone tested with Model F or beam spring keyboards any products that make USB keyboards wireless?

Here's one I recently came across: https://handheldsci.com/kb/

[AlexB555]

There is now an additional LED overlay option: ISO 9995. This was a special order from a while back but now it is open to the public for orders. There are about 30 remaining of this design.

LED overlay ISO 9995.PNG

Quebec CSA and French BÉPO are based on ISO 9995 (Part 7), the led overlay is compatible with these two layouts.

Idea : Num Lock, Caps Lock and Scroll Lock could be offered in a bundle with the led overlay iso-9995-7, if a demand is there.

The pictograms are explained there : https://www.tresor.gouv.qc.ca/fileadmin ... 9995-7.pdf

[pelletik]

@Ellipse Are there any new updates?

[Ellipse]

Yes, please see a few posts up for updates on the F122, and see the beam spring project thread for the latest updates on the Round 2 beam spring project. Those posts are the latest updates. Were you looking for an update on another part of the project? Please let me know.

Please note that the project has had some email issues in the past several weeks and some folks have reported that I have not received their message. If I have not replied to your email please re-send it.

With permission I am sharing what may be one of the only photos of the Italian key set installed on an F77. A nice setup with Nixie tubes and a custom-built PC!

Italian (2).jpg (204.4 KiB) Viewed 754 times

Italian (1).jpg (804.59 KiB) Viewed 754 times

[Takashi]

So I have two F77 that I've had for a while. One almost three years and the other one almost 2 years.
One came in very good condition while the other one came quite brutally beaten up by the shipping. The keyboard itself was quite intact, but a big bunch of the keycaps and springs were crushed but Joe was kind and sent replacements for these.
Now that I've used the beaten up keyboard a while, it doesn't "feel" as good as the first one.
I guess all the springs and caps were slightly off. It's been almost 2 years now so I just have to accept it I guess. The keys on the second keyboard are just more "scratchy" and not as smooth as on the first one. The left shift for example I have to press in the center for it to actuate. If I press it in the corner, it doesn't want to go down.

I've noticed that the color now gets loose (discoloring) on both of them. It's on the place where my hand is resting.

Keyboard #1


Keyboard #2


Not living in the warmest or most humid of places (Sweden).

Anyone has suggestions of what can be done? Don't feel like doing a total repaint of them. Maybe someone has some good ideas as I cant' be the only one with this problem?