Phantom Custom Keyboard Group Buy (CLOSED)
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- key-bored
- Location: London, UK
- DT Pro Member: -
If anyone in the EU has a spare WIN key with plate and teensy then please sell it to me!
- damorgue
- Location: Sweden
- Main mouse: MX500
- Favorite switch: BS, MX Green and MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I present all of you with an alternative. If anyone wants to switch their plates with these 7BIT plates, I will buy your PHISOWIN so you can get one of these instead.7bit wrote:I sell 2 Phantom PCBs with 7BIT-layout and Teensy.
Prices:
Phantom PCB: 40 EUR
7BIT mountplate: 20 EUR
TEENSY: 15 EUR
Exchange rate is 1 EUR = $1.3 .
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- Location: Stockhom, Sweden
- Main keyboard: Symmetric Stagger Board
- Main mouse: Kinzu
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
I am pretty sure I promised to sell you one of my spares. And I got an original Filco mounting plate as well, missing the easy switch open cutouts then of course...
- fruktstund
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2
- Main mouse: Logitech g400
- Favorite switch: Ergo-Clears (I think - can never decide)
- DT Pro Member: -
I have a feeling you're talking about me now. We Swedes are not the same person, I promise.7bit wrote:You need to decide if you want the G80-2100 or just the key caps.Swede wrote:Still not gotten mine, hoping it's on it's way
Guess I get it sometime next week
All remaining orders are packed and will ship today, along with some CherryMX orders.
By the way, if there's anyone who have a PCB and a PHANSI150 plate they don't need/want, I'm the man to talk to.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Cherry Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Yep, almost 10million of us now.gimpster wrote:Shit, they're multiplying?!fruktstund wrote:I have a feeling you're talking about me now. We Swedes are not the same person, I promise.
Be afraid!
- damorgue
- Location: Sweden
- Main mouse: MX500
- Favorite switch: BS, MX Green and MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I know six Swedes of the top of my head that are active here. Compared to our population, we have a large representation, don't we?
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
I keep a file of all Swedish guys I come across on Deskthority and Geekhack. It has 37 entries so far.
BTW, I just finished modding my PHISO plate to have a bottom row of 1.5-1-1.5 - 6 - 1.5-1-1-1.5.
In other words, one-unit Windows and Menu keys and the Alt Gr key under '.', like on a Topre Realforce or a iOne keyboard.
Thanks again to bpiphany (PrinsValium) for making the PCB support it!!!
Unfortunately, my camera does not work, so I can't show it.
BTW, I just finished modding my PHISO plate to have a bottom row of 1.5-1-1.5 - 6 - 1.5-1-1-1.5.
In other words, one-unit Windows and Menu keys and the Alt Gr key under '.', like on a Topre Realforce or a iOne keyboard.
Thanks again to bpiphany (PrinsValium) for making the PCB support it!!!
Unfortunately, my camera does not work, so I can't show it.
Last edited by Findecanor on 17 Sep 2012, 23:00, edited 1 time in total.
- webwit
- Wild Duck
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: Model F62
- Favorite switch: IBM beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0000
- Contact:
Hmmm... should they be worried?
- damorgue
- Location: Sweden
- Main mouse: MX500
- Favorite switch: BS, MX Green and MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Well, now it just became creepy, you are off my list sir
On a more serious note, that is nice to have if you ever want to ship things together and want to scan through a list of people who have already bought an item.
On a more serious note, that is nice to have if you ever want to ship things together and want to scan through a list of people who have already bought an item.
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
I keep only board-names. Otherwise, I might get Datainspektionen on my ass ...
I started when there was a thread on Geekhack about how many people there were from each country.
I started when there was a thread on Geekhack about how many people there were from each country.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I can deliver names. addresses, bank account numbers. Let me know if you need anything else.Findecanor wrote:I keep only board-names. Otherwise, I might get Datainspektionen on my ass ...
I started when there was a thread on Geekhack about how many people there were from each country.
- The_Ed
- Asperger's... SQUIRREL!
- Location: MN - USA
- Main keyboard: G80-3494LYCUS-2
- Main mouse: Razer Imperator
- Favorite switch: Red
- DT Pro Member: -
I only started keeping a list after GH was R00TW0RMed. But it only contains the names and addresses of the usernames. I would have to manually dig through paypal for their email addresses.
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
My modified PHISO plate overlaid over an unmodified plate of the same type.
1. Using another plate as mask, I spray painted where I was going to cut. However, there was some gap between the plates so I got paint where I wasn't supposed to.
2. Cut most of the holes using a hacksaw. Unfortunately, I screwed up and marred some of the surface.
3. Filed with small file and then with needle files. Now and then I matched up another plate to make sure that the hole had the right position and size. This took most of the time. I used a 1 cm wide triangular file, a flat needle file and a square-profile needle file.
4. Removed excess paint using acetone.
4. Blackened the exposed metal using Birchwood-Casey "Aluminum Black", from a gun store. I applied it with q-tips three times with drying and rinsing. I blackened also where I had marred the finish. It does not look like the chemical has affected the anodized finish.
How I did it:1. Using another plate as mask, I spray painted where I was going to cut. However, there was some gap between the plates so I got paint where I wasn't supposed to.
2. Cut most of the holes using a hacksaw. Unfortunately, I screwed up and marred some of the surface.
3. Filed with small file and then with needle files. Now and then I matched up another plate to make sure that the hole had the right position and size. This took most of the time. I used a 1 cm wide triangular file, a flat needle file and a square-profile needle file.
4. Removed excess paint using acetone.
4. Blackened the exposed metal using Birchwood-Casey "Aluminum Black", from a gun store. I applied it with q-tips three times with drying and rinsing. I blackened also where I had marred the finish. It does not look like the chemical has affected the anodized finish.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Cherry Red
- DT Pro Member: -
My solderpump decided to die just in time as I forgot to add the Teensy. So I have 4 solderpoints that hold the plate in place...
Arrrgh, But then again I have other stuff to worry about
Arrrgh, But then again I have other stuff to worry about
- damorgue
- Location: Sweden
- Main mouse: MX500
- Favorite switch: BS, MX Green and MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
WASDkeyboards ships costar stabilizers to EU.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Cherry Red
- DT Pro Member: -
So, just got it working, and after soldering the switches I have now got my first problems.
89 ui jk nm is not working. I wonder if I have missed a solderpoint on the teensy, but I can't find any missed solder points.
Then we have <, space left shift and Down, that does not work.
I think <, space and left shift may have to do with software.
Down, I have no idea, all solderpoints look good.
89 ui jk nm is not working. I wonder if I have missed a solderpoint on the teensy, but I can't find any missed solder points.
Then we have <, space left shift and Down, that does not work.
I think <, space and left shift may have to do with software.
Down, I have no idea, all solderpoints look good.
- dirge
- Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne, United Kingdom.
- DT Pro Member: -
Swede when I did mine, I used teensy's I already had with the pins soldered down each side. I didn't pay attention to three additional pin's I should have soldered in there.
Not sure if that's your problem or not, just something I missed through rushing straight in.
Not sure if that's your problem or not, just something I missed through rushing straight in.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Cherry Red
- DT Pro Member: -
I soldered my teensy like this:
...........:<-- reverse
....:......:
I don't see any other hole that I may have missed, neither on the PCB or on the wiki.
But B6 was hard to solder, I think the solderpad was missing. But it looks good to me.
Also Space is probably in the wrong holes, will look into that.
...........:<-- reverse
....:......:
I don't see any other hole that I may have missed, neither on the PCB or on the wiki.
But B6 was hard to solder, I think the solderpad was missing. But it looks good to me.
Also Space is probably in the wrong holes, will look into that.
- damorgue
- Location: Sweden
- Main mouse: MX500
- Favorite switch: BS, MX Green and MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
If you soldered the three pins, and it fit on the Phantom PCB later, then you did them correct. The only way to make it fit while still soldering the three extra pins would be if you mirrored it, but then you would have to solder the teensy on the other side of the PCB.
If you have a multimeter, you can check where the connection breaks. 89uijk are all connected and it seems as if there are two columns that aren't connected somewhere.
If you have a multimeter, you can check where the connection breaks. 89uijk are all connected and it seems as if there are two columns that aren't connected somewhere.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Cherry Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Fixed the problem. F1 and F4 on the teensy had lost connection. So me and a classmate fixed it.
Also he showed me that I have blasphemous and horrible soldering skills
I have no idea how that happened... Apart from me failing at soldering.
So we had to bridge it. Works fine now.
Also he showed me that I have blasphemous and horrible soldering skills
I have no idea how that happened... Apart from me failing at soldering.
So we had to bridge it. Works fine now.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos
- Favorite switch: Cherry Red
- DT Pro Member: -
My CAD skills are ok, making stuff in real life is another thing entirely!
Really I'm only decent since I do stuff in cad a lot, compared to some in my class I'm a total scrub at that too
It's not leadfree, but it's cheap stuff. The floss in the solder is bad, leaves a gummy residue. And this is the first project I've done when it comes to soldering, so it's expected to be bad.
Edit: forgot to ask, I guess you need lubricant with the costar stabilizers?
My space bar is not really going up and down as it should, feels like it's 4kg of sand blocking it's path
Really I'm only decent since I do stuff in cad a lot, compared to some in my class I'm a total scrub at that too
It's not leadfree, but it's cheap stuff. The floss in the solder is bad, leaves a gummy residue. And this is the first project I've done when it comes to soldering, so it's expected to be bad.
Edit: forgot to ask, I guess you need lubricant with the costar stabilizers?
My space bar is not really going up and down as it should, feels like it's 4kg of sand blocking it's path
- The_Ed
- Asperger's... SQUIRREL!
- Location: MN - USA
- Main keyboard: G80-3494LYCUS-2
- Main mouse: Razer Imperator
- Favorite switch: Red
- DT Pro Member: -
My soldering skills and equipment aren't at master level, but well into journeyman. I just fixed my razer imperator with a murdered cherry POS board micro-switch. I had to use my trusty liquid flux to get all the solder out of the holes without murdering the traces. Apparently Omron micro-switches DO fail. Hopefully the Cherry micro-switch will last.
- litster
- Location: Washington State, USA
- Main keyboard: KMAC2, The Cheat
- Favorite switch: Brown, Topre, Red, BS
- DT Pro Member: -
For some reason I didn't receive any new post notification, and I have been super busy, so I haven't been back. Glad to see EU folks are getting their Phantoms. Do you guys want to keepthe building and soldering discussion on this thread, or do you prefer a separate thread?
Please update the wiki if you see anything wrong with it. I wrote the wiki back in January/February, and the plate I used to build the prototype was not the same as the final plates you received. I did update the wiki to reflect the change. But feel free to beef up the wiki and add your tips to it.
Next I hope some of you can help in modifying the firmware to add new features. Some of the features I think would be are:
Please update the wiki if you see anything wrong with it. I wrote the wiki back in January/February, and the plate I used to build the prototype was not the same as the final plates you received. I did update the wiki to reflect the change. But feel free to beef up the wiki and add your tips to it.
Next I hope some of you can help in modifying the firmware to add new features. Some of the features I think would be are:
- NKRO over USB
- BIOS compatibility support
- Reset via key combo instead of hitting the switch on teensy physically
- layers, lots of layers
- Aikon-like remapping client
- possibly .hex level compatibility with Dox and Ergo Dox so we can share tools and features