This happened to my G80 today...
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
I feel for you man. It is practically broken.
Perhaps you could stop the cracks from widening by gluing it with epoxy, and then solder wires between existing solder joints for the broken signal lines, but there seems to be quite a lot of lines that have been broken.
Perhaps you could stop the cracks from widening by gluing it with epoxy, and then solder wires between existing solder joints for the broken signal lines, but there seems to be quite a lot of lines that have been broken.
- Ascaii
- The Beard
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: CM Novatouch, g80-1851
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Ergo clears, Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0019
Is this an older ps2 or a newer USB model? Ive got a few space pcbs with only the bottom housings I can give you for the price of shipping. Its the older PS2 models though.
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- Location: Germany, Hannover
- Main keyboard: SS 7G
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: maybe blues
- DT Pro Member: -
Uh well, i think it overestimated the stability (guess thats why id require a plate mounted board tbh).
It was a G80-3000HPMDE from 2001 if IIRC but ill check that lateron again, PS2 it is.
It was a good opportunity to learn some soldering since im about to switch from black to blue on my SS7G.
But it was quite a pain to desolder all the switches because they were all 4point soldered.
It was a G80-3000HPMDE from 2001 if IIRC but ill check that lateron again, PS2 it is.
It was a good opportunity to learn some soldering since im about to switch from black to blue on my SS7G.
But it was quite a pain to desolder all the switches because they were all 4point soldered.
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- Location: Germany, Hannover
- Main keyboard: SS 7G
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: maybe blues
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for your offer, i will come back to it during next week as i want to see how my customization goes first.
I know i dont have to desolder switches to change the interior on g80 boards but my customization is on a plate mounted 7G
and why should i let switches on a broken G80 PCB.
I know i dont have to desolder switches to change the interior on g80 boards but my customization is on a plate mounted 7G
and why should i let switches on a broken G80 PCB.
- Ascaii
- The Beard
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: CM Novatouch, g80-1851
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Ergo clears, Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0019
haha, gotcha xD. Just pm me whenever, ive got two sitting in my shelf.bounce wrote:Thanks for your offer, i will come back to it during next week as i want to see how my customization goes first.
I know i dont have to desolder switches to change the interior on g80 boards but my customization is on a plate mounted 7G
and why should i let switches on a broken G80 PCB.
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
according to the spec http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm it seems to be diode slots. I didn't open my G80-3000 yet but it make sense because there is no led under caps on my KB. But the 3000 has a lot of different versions and some led version must exist.
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
do you mean a wirebridge between each two diode slots ? Are you sure there is no diode included in your MX switches(I don't know if it exist) ?bounce wrote:Yea i know about the diodes (and on my 7G they are empty) but why has every switch a wirebridge on that g80?
What does this wirebridge do?
Maybe it's wired to ease a anti-ghosting modd…
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Oh OK, so you can free some space on a PCB if you want to add diodes
I think there are no diodes because Cherry G80-3000 is a cheap model, I should check on my recent one.
I think there are no diodes because Cherry G80-3000 is a cheap model, I should check on my recent one.
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
not for LED spot, for an anti ghosting diode. But it seems there are holes for the led slots so maybe you can mod them for led lock or retro lighting but you need the proper PCB design to do it.
- Ascaii
- The Beard
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: CM Novatouch, g80-1851
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Ergo clears, Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0019
FYI, they do serve a purpose...the way the g80-3000 is wired you need the bridge for the matrix to work. On some boards like the black widow there is a seperate set of traces that allow LEDS to be used in the slots.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
They are used as bridges and for stability.bounce wrote:Anyways i was kinda astounded why every switch was connected with 4 pins, so wirebridge and normal pins.
Anyone can explain this?
Just look at your broken PCB.
BTW: What did you do to make it crack?
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
"Guru Meditation" I guess7bit wrote:
BTW: What did you do to make it crack?
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- Location: Germany
- DT Pro Member: -
HPMDE --> Throw the board away, get a new L(P/S/Q)CDE and move the caps to the new board.
Or... sell the caps and use the money to get two new G80s to have one in spare if this sort of accident tends to happen more often...
Or... sell the caps and use the money to get two new G80s to have one in spare if this sort of accident tends to happen more often...
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- Location: Germany, Hannover
- Main keyboard: SS 7G
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: maybe blues
- DT Pro Member: -
actually i rly thought about selling the keycaps cuz it seems 1.5x DS modifier (or was it 1.25x?) arent common (no idea tho).
Ill line them up on a sheet and take a picture so ppl can get an idea about condition.
A new G80 is no option for me, the wibby wobbily case was just ebarassing.
Ill line them up on a sheet and take a picture so ppl can get an idea about condition.
A new G80 is no option for me, the wibby wobbily case was just ebarassing.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Revolution
- Favorite switch: MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Poor G80. Too bad you have steelseries. You should sell that and get a nice plate board with ISO and use the doubleshots of the G80 on it. It's what I would do. They are the best keycaps around afterall.
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- Location: Germany, Hannover
- Main keyboard: SS 7G
- Main mouse: Mx518
- Favorite switch: maybe blues
- DT Pro Member: -
Thats not a bad idea considering i dont like the backspace on the SS7G but i do like the wrist rest.lysol wrote:Poor G80. Too bad you have steelseries. You should sell that and get a nice plate board with ISO and use the doubleshots of the G80 on it. It's what I would do. They are the best keycaps around afterall.
But i didnt find anything like that which suites my needs in an acceptable price range.
i may stalk the marketplace a little more to see what i can find.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Revolution
- Favorite switch: MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
OK, fine. They are the best doubleshots for MX around afterall ;P
I don't know what pricing is like but maybe CM Rapid for tenkeyless, Rosewill 9000 came available in ISO recently, or Ducky 9000 series have ISO models available now also. Otherwise of course there is always Filco but they are so expensive. There may be some other options but I don't follow ISO things as much.
I don't know what pricing is like but maybe CM Rapid for tenkeyless, Rosewill 9000 came available in ISO recently, or Ducky 9000 series have ISO models available now also. Otherwise of course there is always Filco but they are so expensive. There may be some other options but I don't follow ISO things as much.
- Vierax
- Location: France (Lille)
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID KM128 Bépo layout
- Main mouse: Kensington Orbit Trackball
- Favorite switch: MX Clear / MX Grey (under thumbs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
If you need some qwertz set, I don't use the one of my G80 3000 LQCDE and I'm ready to sell it to you or exchange it for an azerty one if you have to buy a French KB.bounce wrote:cant find either of them im germany unfortunately, only the QFR but with red switches only.
If you just need a TKL set it's ok too.